L'antibes, Columbus OH

While Columbus is indeed a great city, there are things it lacks...for instance, when it comes to Fine French dining the options are relatively limited - Handke's, The Refectory, and L'Antibes. Having already been to the former two, when asked where I wanted to go in celebration of my (long past) and aunt's (upcoming) birthday, the answer was a no brainer. While I certainly wasn't expecting The French Laundry, Gary Danko, or Alex I must admit that after browsing the website and reading of Chef Litzinger's culinary achievements I was quite excited to see what the young man had to offer - certainly it could and should be as great as Handke or the Refectory...perhaps even better. Contacting the restaurant to make reservations I was even more impressed when the chef himself graciously fielded the e-mail. Table of four at 6:30.

Arriving at the restaurant we opted to skip the valet and parked less than 100 feet from the door for free. Having seen the restaurant myriad times before when browsing Piece of Cake we approached the door where the young valet stood - he smiled but neglected to open the door for any of us. Entering we were greeted by a young female hostess who smiled, accepted our reservation, and led us to a small table with very plus leather seats in the rear of the main dining room. Small and cozy the ambiance reminded me somewhat of Keller's famed Yountville establishment, but the art on the walls provided an interesting contrast. Music played over the hidden speakers and was largely benign, but I must admit it grew quite loud at times which was quite unnecessary. Four small menus were left as the server walked away along with the wine list.

Opening the menus I could see a look of relative disappointment on my mother and aunt's faces - apparently the crab and lobster dishes, as well as the halibut listed online were no longer available (despite my e-mailing ahead of time to be sure the extremely limited menu would have options favorable to all.) Interestingly my sister's copy of the menu did indeed have the previously mentioned dishes - a gaff laughed off by the staff as a "oops, it must've snuck in there." What else did my sister have that none of us had? A big 'ol smudge of lipstick on her filmy water glass. It was at this point that we almost stood up and walked out....especially when our server laughed off the lipstick as another "oops." Returning with a new glass and new menu the server informed us of one addition to the menu - an interesting Halibut dish that turned out to be the only reason we opted to stay. After delivery of this information, despite there only being 8 total people in the restaurant, it took 11 minutes before our server returned again to take orders.

Orders placed we were shortly brought a basket of bread and salted room-temperature butter that was quite excellent. Two types of bread, a nutty wheat and a smooth and doughy white, were brought piping hot from the oven and both were quite wonderful with the white being slightly more impressive with its sweet high notes. The butter was smooth and mildly sweet and worked well. Polishing off the basket relatively quickly I must admit I was slightly annoyed when the server picked up the basket and butter without offering more - thus forcing us to ask for more to go with the mains.

For the amuse, a small and below average scallop was served. Pan fried and touched with cardamom the small mollusk sat on a bed of wonderful beet greens, but overall the dish lacked any "wow" factor because the scallop was essentially overcooked - not because of flawed technique, but because it was so small that it would be almost impossible to prepare without overcooking unless done sous vide.

After a short wait our two appetizers arrived and the service seemed to shape up a bit as the restaurant grew more busy. The first appetizer, ordered by my sister, was the Escargots in a Lemon-Tarragon Beurre Blanc and the dish was admittedly quite excellent. Perfectly prepared and only modestly seasoned beyond the butter and tarragon the small snails were shitake-mushroom like in texture without the briny-slime texture that plagues many Escargot preparations. Served shelled with crostini at only nine dollars I'd place this dish on the "must order" list and amongst the most unique appetizers in the city.

The second appetizer, Torchon of Foie Gras, Fig Jam, Balsamic Reduction, Brioche Toast was ordered by myself and somewhat of a hit-or-miss choice. While the Foie was certainly wonderful and possibly the best terrine/torchon preparation in the city now that BoMA is no longer serving their remarkable "PB+J" the fig jam and balsamic were under portioned for the amount of foie and the brioche was too chewy to provide adequate foil to the fatty/smooth liver. While I don't consider myself an "expert" I must admit I've had myriad preparations of this dish (including arguably the best in the world at TFL) and the dish would definitely benefit from a textural component - whether that be a nut or fibrous vegetable. At eighteen dollars the dish was slightly more expensive than better preps in other cities, but as I stated previously, the Foie itself was superb quality.

A short time passed (and my water glass sat empty for 10 minutes) between the appetizers and mains and it was at this point that we noted the loudness of the music - and they vastly more friendly waiter serving the table next to us - perhaps just bad luck on our part - offering to get the table more bread without their request. Service issues aside, the mains finally began to arrive with the first going to my mother - the nightly special of Almond Crusted Halibut with Shitake Mushrooms, Asparagus, and Smoky Bacon. Perfectly poached and mildly seasoned, the Halibut was a joy to taste and showed that when given an adequate piece of seafood Chef Litzinger is certainly quite capable. Flawless Shitakes with a hint of garlic, tender asparagus with a great soft-to-snap ratio, and a lovely white sauce with some sweetness but predominantly smoke and salt from the bacon - a GREAT dish all around.

Along with my mother's Halibut she also opted for the Grits and Gruyere side - served in its own attractive copper pan. Small in portion yet hefty in weight the grits were wonderfully cooked (albeit not quite as excellent as the grits at Banana Bean earlier in the day) while the gruyere was actually quite mild. While tasty and 'cheap' I can't say I'd rave the grits and they likely would've benefited from a savory component or protein vs. fibrous addition.

For my sister who orders salmon almost everywhere we go, the Poached Bay of Fundy Salmon, Fennel Puree, Buttered Carrots, Potato Nest, Vin Blanc Sauce was another knockout and reminded me that although so many places are making generic salmon due to its purported health benefits nowadays - it truly can be remarkable when done well. Perfectly poached and on par with sous vide fishes I've had prepared elsewhere the fish was surprisingly mild and oily with an aromatic fennel puree gracing the side of the dish and contrasting starkly with the sweet white wine sauce. For texture, the potato nest served as a beautiful and tasty crunch while the carrots were akin to the asparagus in their perfect preparation.

The next option, my Aunt's 8oz Filet of Beef with Brown Butter Brussels Sprouts, whipped potatoes, demi glace was marked a winner by her, but as I do not enjoy beef flesh I refrained. Excellent brussel sprouts with a nearly caramelized texture were an absolute rave amongst all who tasted them, however, myself included while the potatoes were relatively bland.

My selection and the primary reason I'd opted for L'antibes in the first place, Crispy Sweetbreads, Baby Spinach Risotto, Cured Bacon Lardons, Roasted Veal Broth was heavenly. Flawless and creamy Risotto with superb texture, crispy/salty bacon lardons, and an extremely mild (and non-beefy) broth with aromatic hints of what I believe were cardamom contrasted beautifully with the sweet and succulent thymus that was only mildly pan seared. Hefty in portion the meal was nearly "comfort food" in nature, yet refined at a level deserving of the best kitchens. Better than preparations at Le Cirque, Lola, and the Refectory and on par with what Stratta is doing at Alex at the Wynn.

Having loved the food thus far, dessert was certainly on the docket and the short menu of five items plus a cheese course presented many unique choices. Skipping the Vanilla Crème Brule we each decided to sample a different dessert - mine and my aunt's each brought with candles in celebration of our birthdays.

For my sister, L'Antibe's 'signature' dessert was selected - the Bittersweet Chocolate Mousse served in a Honey Tulip with Coffee sauce. Rich, creamy, slightly bitter but mostly airy decadence the mousse was an absolute hit while the crispy honey cup provided an interestingly complex and crispy foil of pure fructose sweetness. Small in portion but adequate given its richness I must say I appreciated the textures and feel of this dish and my sister absolutely loved the presentation. While I did not taste the coffee sauce, my sister stated it was quite good.

For my mother, a fan lemon desserts both here and afar, the Lemon Curd Tartlette served with Raspberry Puree was the order of the day and once again impressed. House made lemon curd with minimal acidity yet adequate tartness and plenty of sweetness worked well with the smooth and buttery crust while the raspberry puree decoration added an additional degree of complexity. Not too heavy, not too light - just right.

For my aunt, the Crème Caramel described as a baked Vanilla Custard with Caramel Sauce was selected and in my opinion was the only dessert that failed to impress. Relatively flavorless, the custard was simply marred in the significantly bitter (almost alcoholic) and thin broth. A single bite was more than enough for me and no one else at the table aside from my aunt seemed to gather where the dish was going.

My choice, the Poached Pear in Gewurztraminer, Honey, and Cardamom, Grand Marnier, Yogurt Sauce, Almond Tuile while poached in alcohol and served with alcohol was VASTLY more appealing than the Caramel and truly showed off what one can do by simply combining contrasting flavors and textures in unique ways. Perfectly poached and soft with hints of white wine the pear proved a great match to the pungent cardamom whose ginger-esque notes were well balanced by the smooth and tangy yogurt and sweet honey. The Almond tuile, also honey accented, added a necessary crunch and pulled everything together very well - a must order, for certain.

All told, L'Antibes features fantastic French cuisine in a fairly authentic feeling atmosphere at a fair price for the quality - approximately $55 per person after tax and tip. With that said, while there is no doubt that Chef Litzinger is a talented man - but certain dishes could certainly be better with a couple extra flourishes and the menu could certainly use an expansion. I do find it interesting that the day after my meal the Chef personally e-mailed me to apologize for a less-than-stellar experience as it was something I certainly didn't mention to anyone at the restaurant - if the staff was aware of their missteps I do wonder why they weren't corrected while we were present. Another interesting note - after the meal we were presented with a hand-printed menu of the courses ordered - a nice touch for sure - if only the bland staff could match the chef's wonderful cuisine there is no doubt I'd return soon.

Bakery Gingham, Columbus OH

I've been around and had a cupcake or two....or twenty. As much as I wanted to love Bakery Gingham in order to find a delectable choice locally (as opposed to LA, LV, or NYC) I just can't love it. Good? Sure. Great? Nah.

Went with my family on my first day off in 20 after breakfast at Banana Bean and picked up 1/2 dozen choices - Vanilla, Neopolitain, Dreamsicle, Oreo Sandwiched, Chai Tea, and Elvis Has Left the Building (Peanut Butter Chocolate Banana.) While the cakes were moist (albeit small) and light and the frosting sugary and plentiful the overall effect was just sort of dull. Sure the store is cute, sure the salesgirl was nice, and sure the location is sort of cool - but at $2.50 I expect vanilla to taste vastly different from orange dreamsicle and both to be entierley different from chai tea or oreo....subtlety has a point, but not so subtle that orange and chocolate are similar.

Wile I wouldn't say Gingham is bad by any means, it isn't great and the prices are on par with the organic cupcakes at Omega and places that are vastly better in other cities. I'd like to try Grandpa's Coffee at some point and perhaps some of the cookies in the future, but I'd not rush back with pistachia vera just down the street.


I will give credit for the cutesy easter decorations on the cakes for easter - even if the easter cookies on the oreo didn't make much sense. Additionally, no red velvet? Really?? Bait and switch, totally, on the Buckeye Nation and Smore, as well. Finally - Cup o Joe - sigh. There is potential here, but thus far it seems unrealized.

Banana Bean Cafe, Columbus OH

Weekend rounds on a Saturday with my family coming into town and my first day off in 21 days scheduled for Sunday...yeah, I was excited - I hadn't seen my sister since New Years and hadn't seen my mother or Aunt since the end of February. Sitting on the 8th floor of the hospital finishing up my notes for the day I dialed up Banana Bean -

"Hi, do you have any reservations available this morning?"
"Hang on, let me check." ::2 minute pause:: "Thank you for holding, how many people?"
"Four"
"What time?"
"12:45ish"
"We can only do 12:30 or 1:00"
"Okay 1:00 then"
"Name and phone number?"
-given-
"Okay, we'll see you at 1:00pm"

Quickly I made my way out of the hospital and met up with the family near Lennox, fired up the GPS, and made our way to the new location on Greenlawn. Arriving in front of the stark building I must admit I was a tad confused....there were five cars in the lot and no sign. Garmin, don't screw with me damnit, I'm hungry. Looking closer, however, I saw the banner....apparently this was indeed the place....with five cars....for our reservations that took over 2 minutes to make....for a specific time....perhaps there was an alternate lot, I thought....then I walked through the doors and....nope, two tables of 2, one table of 4, and a few employees. "Reservations for Mike" I announced. I only wish they'd have told us we were 15 minutes early and we'd have to wait at the bar.

Taking our seats upstairs I originally wasn't sure what to make of the place - clearly an old dive-bar recently converted I kind of liked the vibe and the music, while not my cup o' tea, was ambient and appropriate. Water was filled and menus offered by our server Sara who appeared to be either hung-over, tired, or as though she just got bitched out by her boss. After a few moments she returned to take drink orders - water, hot tea, two OJs - and to inform us that the grouper and plantains were not available. A few moments later the drinks were delivered - admittedly with some flare as a huge selection of designer teas were presented in a large wooden chest. Orders were taken and we were left to chat.

After a few moments I noticed an odd look on my mom's face and before I could inquire what was wrong Sara happened to return and my mom simply stated "I don't want to complain, but this is the worst orange juice I've ever tasted." With a confused look the waitress stated "Well, it’s not the fresh squeezed - we sold out of that." ......okay now, I understand selling out (a lie, we later found out when the owner came out to apologize and instead stated that their shipment was simply 5 hours late) but don't try to pass off Tropicana as Fresh Squeezed. It is interesting that after this unfortunate instance and the apology (not requested, but appreciated as Sara offered none) it was like Sara's twin replaced her (or the owner told her to correct her attitude) and her attitude improved significantly - she even smiled!

After approximately 10 more minutes the dishes began to arrive - the first being my appetizer portion of Cedar Key Shrimp & Grits, Smoked Bacon Etouffe, Creamy Goat Cheese Grits. In a word, sublime....honestly, after this I would've accepted Dick's Last Resort quality service. Four HUGE fresh Shrimp that were flawlessly broiled, wonderfully tender yet toothsome grits, savory goat cheese and smoky yet sweet bacon - call me crazy but I'd compare this preparation favorably to the vastly more expensive polenta at Spiaggia and Lola.

Next up we received our mains and sides, each presented piping hot from the kitchen and quite attractively plated for a "cafe" or "diner." For sides we selected two breads - the grilled Sourdough (decent, but it certainly isn't San Francisco) and Cat’s head Buttermilk Biscuits that both my sister and I have deemed the best buttermilk biscuits of all time. Served with all natural grape preserves at only $2 an order the biscuits were a steal and an absolute must order with their buttery-soft texture and mild hints of bacon. Yum.

For mains my mother selected the salad featuring Caramelized Apples, Buttermilk Blue Cheese, Candied Walnuts on Mesculin with spicy orange vinaigrette and I must admit it was better than expected considering the season. The apples were pan-roasted and tender, the walnuts wonderfully cinnamon sweet, and the Mesculin very fresh. I personally did not appreciate much orange to the vinaigrette, just a mild acidity that worked well with the sub-average blue cheese. A good salad, but if I were Banana Bean I'd switch cheese mongers....perhaps Blue Jacket?

For my sister, the Eggs Del Mar - 2 Poached Eggs atop House–made Creole Cornmeal-Dusted Crab Cakes and Seared Spinach & Roasted Tomato Hollandaise. While my sister quite liked this dish, I must admit that for myself it fell somewhat flat - especially since I don't like Hollandaise and my first reaction to the dish was "wow, the Hollandaise is pretty good." While nothing on the dish was "bad" per-se, the crab cakes were very bland and 50/50 filler-to-crab while the eggs were overly poached (firm) and relatively flavorless. Once again, better product sourcing and farm-fresh eggs could have definitely helped.

As my Aunt selected the item I'd had the most interest in, I skeptically opted for the Softshell Po Boy -Cornmeal-Dusted, Whole Soft Shell Crab on Grilled French Bread, With Shredded Lettuce, Ripe Tomatoes, and Remoulade and was quite impressed. A whole Soft-shell was quite expertly prepared and quite possibly "fresh-never-frozen" given its quality. The bread was wonderfully crunchy on the exterior with a soft and doughy interior and the Remoulade was appropriately spicy without ruining the nuances of the sweet crab. Too early in Ohio for local tomatoes I must say the ones served with the sandwich were far from "ripe" and thus discarded. Overall, possibly the best sandwich in town.

For my Aunt, the Bananas Foster French Toast with Fresh Berries of the Season and Captain Morgan Rum Sauce was the selection I'd originally considered....and a single bite made me glad I opted for the Po Boy. Absolutely slathered in sauce that tasted faintly of rum and a non-descript berry, the bread was crispy and eggy on the outside yet largely dry and boring within - overall a description of something that should've soaked for at least another couple minutes. Atop the dish were some wonderful bruleed bananas (the highlight of the dish) and Strawberries - 50% of which were large and flavorful and 50% of which were under-ripe. All told, for a dish that had so much promise my taste buds and those of my aunt echoed "Hello, flavor?"

Feeling relatively full yet mostly content our waitress cleared the plates and offered coffee and/or desserts. Never one to pass up dessert without at least seeing the menu I must admit all the options sounded rather enticing - but only one made us say yes - the Chocolate Cayenne Bread Pudding with Chipotle Crème Anglaise.

A fan of all things Bread Pudding and still looking for a Columbus version aside from The Refectory that truly shines I must admit that Banana Bean fared quite well with its unique take. Large pieces of chocolate brioche were absolutely scrumptious while the interplay of creamy sweet and spicy hot danced on the palate. Similar bruleed bananas to those on the French Toast added a contrasting fructose sweetness that proved a nice foil to the heat while plump raspberries added some crispy texture. If I had to fault the dish in any way, honestly, it would be the chipotle which added an unnecessary smoky flavor to the otherwise smooth flavors.

All told I liked Banana Bean's food and would compare it favorably to many good brunch/lunch places in the Midwest (The incredible Bongo Room excluded) but dishes were largely big hit or moderate miss and the service was spotty at best. Pricey for the quality I think part of the issue is sourcing - as noted with the below average berries, tomatoes, eggs, and cheese – while part of the issue is simply attitude. Perhaps I'll return when the local produce is better and before some items are sold out.....or after they are delivered - and when the place isn't so damned packed that I have to make reservations.

CUT at the Beverly Wilshire, Los Angeles CA

With an ever-growing empire of restaurants across the globe ranging the gauntlet from Fine to Casual, European to Asian, and Californian to Steakhouse many say that Wolfgang Puck is hardly even a chef anymore, but instead a celebrity who spends more time in the board room than the kitchen. Having had a superb lunch at Spago two years ago that essentially served as my introduction to true "fine dining," I admit Chef Puck holds a special place in my heart and regardless of the critiques the man is a culinary legend. Following a long interview day at CS I needed a high quality meal relatively close by and after reading the myriad reviews I decided CUT at the Beverly Wilshire was just what the doctor ordered. “You don’t eat steak,” my mother said when I told her of my plans but a quick perusal of the menu clearly indicated that like Mastro’s – a previously excellent experience – Beef wasn’t “the only choice.”

Arriving for my (admittedly early) 5:30 reservations after browsing around (and being ignored at) Saks just down the street I made my way through the beautiful hotel and smiling faces to the valet area in back where SideBar and CUT sit side by side. As the waiters were just arriving I was told it would take “about 10 minutes before my table was ready” and that I could wait in the bar. Entering sidebar I was impressed by the gigantic images of rock, movie, and political icons along the wall and the comfortable couches. Not wanting anything to drink I simply sat and checked out the scene while listening to the admittedly superb soundtrack of The Who and The Doors. After 15 minutes I went back to the hostess station where (ironically) she was explaining on the phone that they could only hold tables for 15 minutes before giving them away – and I was told it would be another 5 minutes before my table was ready. Looking at my watch the time was 5:45 and as such 15+5=20 by my math….clearly the 15 minute rule is for customers only. As promised, however, at 5:50 I was led to my seat.

Walking to my great table on the main dining floor (directly under a huge picture of The Material Girl herself) I noted three young chefs rapidly chopping fresh fruits and vegetables at the entrance counter and the wide open kitchen behind glass where one can watch every aspect of the preparation from cutting to searing to finishing to the chef’s interactions with the wait staff – very cool. Approximately two minutes after seating I was brought water and a menu (featuring The Governator) and greeted by the floor manager who wished me a wonderful meal and suggested I ask for her directly if I needed anything during my meal. I was subsequently visited by the sommelier (declined, but gracious) and then met William – quite bluntly the best server I’ve ever had at any restaurant (TFL, Trotters, Alex, Providence included.) A fellow Ohioan who talked plainly about the differences between the Midwest and the West, showed interest in my line of work, answered all questions, and engaged in conversations about music and the world in general – like a great bartender yet tableside – I really can’t say enough about the quality service, especially for a solo diner who wasn’t racking up a huge wine bill.

Menu selections made, William noticed me taking pictures and asked if I’d like to see the beautiful A5 and in order to be like every other foodblogger I snapped the obligatory picture of the $10,000+ worth of sake fed and massaged cow. Picture taken, I was next brought the signature cheesy breadsticks and shortly thereafter the bread and butter – and what a selection it was. Salted and somewhat smoky sweet butter plus pumpernickel, white, onion forcaccia, and pretzel all served warm – it is a tossup between the onion and the pretzel as to which I ate more of, but I know it was a minimum of 5 pieces each – a nominee for best bread selection ever.

After the breads I was delivered the first of two amuses bouche from the kitchen. The first, provided to every table within my view, was a basket of savory gougeres. Using a sharp cheese that may have been cheddar, the gougeres were good, but in my opinion somewhat too large and therefore not quite as melt-in-the-mouth savory as the versions at The French Laundry or Providence. The second amuse, comped by the kitchen (as noted on the bill) were three steaming knishes served with spicy mustard. Large in portion and perfectly crispy outside with a pillow soft interior these beautiful dumplings of four cheeses including mozzarella and gruyere, onion, and hints of sage tasted like a heavenly baked potato and should definitely be ordered or requested by those who’ve had the opportunity to taste a knish or pierogie in the past.

More discussion of the city and life in Los Angeles followed the knishes and after approximately 10 minutes a second server arrived with my appetizer - the Rhubarb Compote, Fresh Buratta, Prosciutto Di Parma, and Tuscan Olive Oil. Smaller in size than the version at La Botte and unfortunately without the Black Mission Figs promised on the online menu, the dish was still a hit with the smooth and milky buratta accented flawlessly by a slightly grassy olive oil and two thin slices of fatty and salty prosciutto. As compliments to the salty and smooth components of the dish were served small dollops of sweet rhubarb compote with strong vinegar accents and a sharp tang. All told the dish was great, but at $21 (oddly, the menu price was listed as $16 but the price on the bill was $5 more) I'd prefer the fantastic ham selections at The Bazaar or Osteria Mozza.

Following another short wait, presentation of 3 mustards and fleur de sel, and songs from Pink Floyd, Prince, and (ironically) Neil Young’s Ohio a small preparation table was brought up and after another short conversation with William two waiters appeared with my main course and side dishes. Each presented prior to preparation for pictures, the smells from the food had my mouth watering with anticipation. As a side, Creamed Spinach with Fried Organic Egg was a beautiful mélange of crème fraiche, nutmeg, and earthy spinach topped with one of the most yellow and pure eggs I’ve seen in some time. Breaking the yolk with a pair of long forks the server whipped the concoction to a light foam and then plated approximately one third. Still piping hot, the rich dish was absolutely wonderful in it’s simplicity and each flavor rang through with notable aplomb.

For my main, Line Caught Chilean Sea Bass (which I was assured had been caught live within the past 48 hours and passed all sorts of ‘ethics’ issues that I found humorous albeit appropriate) was presented in whole grilled form and then skillfully deboned tableside, drizzled with olive oil, and spooned with Spring Garlic Leek Reduction. Literally “fall apart” tender, this was possibly the best grilled fish preparation I’ve ever tasted and the quality of the bass was second to none. Mildly accented with the olive oil and surprisingly smooth yet aromatic onion/garlic reduction the dish was everything I expected and makes me wish I had the time, sourcing quality, or finances to make such a healthful dish at home.

Plates cleared (literally, mopped up with another slice of pretzel bread) I must admit I was feeling a little full – but having read numerous accounts of their dessert selections I was ready for more – and with 6 selections on the menu and only one that didn’t sound amazing I almost wished I had eaten less pretzel bread. Bearing with the menu’s title I “Cut to the Chase” and made my selection which I was told would take 10 minutes to prepare (and would be totally worth it.)

Once again, the general manager and William stopped by to chat while I waited and yet again I was wowed by such service – I can only imagine how the Hollywood elite are treated on their visits. When I asked if chef Puck or Hefter was in house I was informed that Puck was preparing for a charity event while Lee was to arrive later as he was at Spago for the early part of the evening. Moments passed and a young lady next appeared with a steaming metal pan while another carried a long white porcelain tray. “Be careful, it is hot” said the staff.

Valrhona Chocolate Souffle with Milk Chocolate Sauce, Whipped Crème Fraîche, and Gianduja Ice Cream…it is hard to sum up in words outside of “wow.” Enormous yet not “overwhelming,” airy yet dense, bittersweet yet fudgy (brownie-batter) – and that was just the perfectly prepared soufflé. On the side, a dense chocolate sauce that I was told was 64% cocoa Valrhona/whipping cream/butter, a heavenly light yet mildly sour whipped crème, and smooth hazelnut Gianduja ice cream each formed a completely different sensation when paired with bites of the soufflé and I was particularly glad that I was allowed to add each as desired as opposed to the standard cut/pour at so many other places. Better than Danko’s famous soufflé and at least on par (if not better) than the version at Le Cirque – a masterpiece, and the second time I’ve been blown out of the water by an LA Steakhouse dessert (Mastro’s Buttercake may still be my favorite dessert ever.)

Following the meal, more or less stuffed, I was brought a final treat from the kitchen – a pair of Caramel Crunch and Meyer Lemon Yuzu shortbread cookies. An appropriate end to such a great meal, the wonderfully cool and creamy lemon bars were every bit as good as a lemon torte pastry (and quite large in size for a petit fore of such potency) while the Caramel Crunch was large chunks of cashew encased in a decidedly chewy and succulent caramel – hilarious when your mouth is completely stuck together and yet another server stops by to ask you how the meal was.

When it was all said and done after tax and an appropriate tip I walked out of the Beverly Wilshire slightly north of $100 and miles north of content. A great fan of French and Italian restaurants in most cases I was simply stunned by the level of service, quality of food, and overall feel of CUT. Whether that night was “the standard” or whether the team simply went out of their way for a single diner I cannot be sure, but I would place CUT on my list of best places to eat solo of all time (along with Le Cirque, The French Laundry, and Providence) and definitely at the pinnacle of my steakhouse experiences – the staff of Mastro’s and Craftsteak could certainly stand to learn from William and Puck’s brilliant team. Without a doubt the next time I’m in Los Angeles or Las Vegas and one of my friends suggests they’d like “a steak,” my response will be CUT.