Over Easy Cafe, Chicago IL

As my daily breakfast is usually vegetable, egg, fruit, and yogurt based I tend to go all out for the sweet temptations when on Vacation and during my recent trip to Chicago I kept true to form in electing to check out Over Easy Cafe for one of my two breakfasts. Conveniently located with unique dishes and cozy size and appearance, Over Easy is the kind of place that would be at the top of the breakfast food-chain in most major cities, but on my visit there was something lacking....that something was service. To avoid bashing the place entirely, as my food was quite delicious, let me just suggest avoiding the chubby female waitress with the nose ring - unless of course you want to have her avoid eye contact while she helps her myriad other tables.

All service issues aside, I found the setting to be very quaint and the prices to be about what one would expect for a restaurant of its ilk. Parking was cheap and plentiful, Coffee was Intelligentsia and refilled rapidly by our bus-boy, and the original service of our food took only approximately 15 minutes from the time we ordered. For our dishes we selected three of the
specials, the famous banana french toast, and a glass of the speckled orange juice - Pretty, but $4 for 8oz? Skip it.

Dish one, selected by my aunt, was the Banana Stuffed French Toast with whipped creme fraiche, bananas, caramel, crumbled walnuts, and powdered sugar and it was worth every bit of the hype. Not overly sweet, the Brioche was perfectly grilled and wonderfully soft while the filling was airy and light, yet smooth and creamy. The crumbled walnuts provided a modest crunch while the caramel and dusting of sugar allowed for just enough sweetness without burying the subtle flavors. A winner, by all accounts.

The second choice, my sisters, was vastly less impressive. Titled Blueberry Crunch Pancakes with granola, candied pecans and blueberries, cinnamon butter and whipped cream, the dish was excessively dry and modestly flavorless until syrup was added...syrup that we saw poured from a large container akin to those you'd buy at Sam's Club behind the bar. For the prices charged, I rather expect pure maple syrup at restaurants like Over Easy; if they can do it at Griddle Cafe in LA and Bongo Room in Chicago, Over Easy should be able to do it too.

Dish three, my mothers, was Spicy Corn Cakes with Scrambled Eggs and Berkshire Ham and another knockout. The Corncakes were like fantastic corn bread with a slight hint of sweet and an undertone of spice that perfectly offset the salty pork and airy cooked eggs. While a better syrup choice would have made the plate an even bigger hit, I was glad my mom had eaten too much sweets at Bleeding Heart and left me a whole pancake to endulge in.

The final selection, and second only to the Banana French Toast in appeal, was my Cannoli French Toast with brioche and sweetened mascarpone cream, chocolate chips, strawberry coulis, pistachio, and whipped cream. Another stunning example of perfectly prepared brioche, this dish was similar to the other French Toast in its subtlety and excellence at bringing forth multiple flavors and textures while still maintaining a cohesive concept. While not as sweet as a typical Italian Cannoli, the smooth mascarpone was brilliantly highlighted by crunchy mini chocolate chips and chopped pistachio. The strawberry coulis was a wonderful addition, but far too little graced the plate to have any meaningful effect on the taste.

Great concepts handicapped by corner cutting and service that suffered from both inadequate staffing and poor attitude - All told, Over Easy is a good little place for breakfast and we happened to luck out with immediate seating when we arrived (When we left there was quite a line,) but it isn't the sort of place I'd rush back to on subsequent visits to Chicago - or the kind of place I'd wait more than 10 minutes to grab a seat at. Try it once, then head over to Bongo Room...repeatedly.

Bleeding Heart Bakery, Chicago IL

As an advocate of healthy eating and the total avoidance of trans-fats, High Fructose Corn Syrup, and other horribly unnatural ingredients I must admit I avoid most bakeries and almost all pre-packaged goods. With that said, a good bakery is a thing of beauty and while baking is something anyone can do, it is something is truly special when it is done well. A great bakery that is also organic and delivers Ace of Cakes quality presentation? I couldn't resist.

Arriving in Chicago around 10am on 12/30 and starving from a long drive, our first stop was indeed Bleeding Heart. Parking was easy, cheap, and directly in front of the building - something we'd not experience on the rest of our trip. Entering the building one is instantly struck by the punk-ethic, crazy decorations, and the delicious smell - this ain't your standard "organic
smelling" store. The line was approximately 5-6 people long and while we made our myriad selections we got a good chuckle out of the skinny girl asking the punk-chique clerk about the carb content of a muffin...."Get out, this is a bakery you jackass" would've been my response, but the clerk handled it slightly more professionally :) While waiting I also wandered to the back and
saw the owner and 4 others mixing batter in the back room which was full of ovens and other kitchen tools, all incredibly clean.

For our selections we opted for a good mix - A vegan Pumpkin Chocolate Cupcake, a Red Velvet Cupcake (a must at ALL bakeries), an Elvis Brownie, a S'mores tarte, a key lime bar, and a serving of the fresh made Pear And Apple Bread Pudding (Bread Pudding is my favorite dessert item, by far.) The total bill was $20 for a whole lot of food and we sat down to enjoy the items at a booth in the back. Browsing the wall art I was very impressed that all the pieces were for sale, alas when I inquired about the price of an intriguing heart wearing an apron the clerk was unable to provide me with the information and the artist was not reachable by phone. Digging in, we each sampled the selections and were wowed to varying degrees by each item.

Of the two cupcakes, both were plenty moist and good representations of the genre, but both suffered from far too much topping and far too little texture to the cake. The red velvet, while tasty, was overpowered by the sweetness of the frosting and paled in comparison to many others - especially the versions at Yummy in Santa Monica and Bouchon in Vegas but also the one later tasted at Fox and Obel. The Pumpkin Chocolate was excellent, however the chocolate was undetectable under the heavy handed flavor of the pumpkin spice.

Next up, the Smores Tarte - decent, but not great. Served cold from a chilled case, the texture was creamy enough, but the marshmallow seemed a tad dry and rubbery while the graham cracker was burried under the thick texture of the carob/chocolate gnache. The Elvis Brownie, like the Tarte, suffered from a very dark chocolate obscuring the taste of the peanut butter and banana - another "decent but not great" choice.

Impressed that the food was organic, but unimpressed by the tastes thus far we next tried the key lime bar - Holy cow! While I admit I'm not a big fan of Key Lime Pie in general, I have had some stunning representations in Florida and at Mastro's in California - this bar topped them all, by far. Smooth and creamy, tart yet sweet, a little bitter and balanced with a buttery
crust....a great palate cleanser after the heavy chocolates.

In a hope that I was saving the best for last, we next opened the Bread Pudding container that had been topped with just a little bit of warm vegan caramel. Without overstating I can definitively say this is the best fruit based bread pudding I've ever experienced. Better than that of Thomas Keller, better than the Refectory......possibly better than the non-fruit version at
Gramercy Tavern.......possibly the best ever. Dense brioche, wonderfully sweet fruits (There were some unadvertised cherries in there too), and flawless density without being "heavy" it was perfect.

All told, Bleeding Heart is a revelation and something much needed in America - no, its not health food and no you shouldn't eat it every day, but if you're going to indulge why not do it with top quality ingredients prepared by a chef who truly believes in what he/she is doing? If you love super dense chocolate I imagine nothing would disappoint you one bit, but if you prefer a lighter touch I'd suggest checking out the fruit based items - especially that transcendent bread pudding.

The Refectory, Columbus Ohio

I’ve been to Lola with Symon’s “Iron Chef” ideals, Handke’s with his Bocuse d'or credentials, and Rosendales with his Culinary Olympic feats…none of them can even hold a candle to the tastes and textures produced by Richard Blondin at the Refectory. Additionally, I’ve been to Michelin starred bastions of haute-French such as Alex, Le Cirque, and MiX with their $150+/pp menus and can honestly say that while their Christofle silverware and ability to source incredibly rare and complex ingredients is commendable and impressive the food isn’t THAT much better than the succulent flavors at the Refectory. I had high expectations walking in the door and left with almost every one exceeded…The Refectory is, hands down, the best dining experience I’ve had in Ohio.

Arriving early in a late celebration of my sister’s birthday we were greeted by the owner himself and quickly escorted to our table in the corner of the main dining hall. Set in an old church I was amazed by the brightness of the heavily wooded room and impressed by the vast expanse of multiple different dining areas and settings as we walked through. Patrons, mostly elderly groups of 2-4, were quiet and respectful and classics from Chopin played lightly overhead. Napkins were unfolded and water was quickly poured as our server appeared with the menus plus wine and cocktail list. Declining wine the specials were offered and orders were placed with the server promising to return soon with bread.

In order to not taint my review with negativity, I’ll get my two gripes out of the way first. Number one, the timing of the meal was excessive with my sister waiting nearly an hour between her soup and her main, but part of this was my fault for ordering three appetizers in a “tasting menu” style as opposed to a single appetizer and a main. My second complaint was the pseudo-French accent utilized by many in the restaurant. Yes, I realize this is a French restaurant, but sir and ma’am are just as appropriate as “Monsieur” and “Madame” and the accent is entirely unnecessary. Aside from that, service was flawless and the setting was divine.

Prior to the bread, in wonderful fine dining fashion, a decadent amuse bouche was sent from the kitchen which consisted of a sublime chicken liver pate drizzled with basil infused olive oil and heirloom tomatoes. While I tend to prefer my liver in foie gras form and my sister isn’t generally a fan of “meat flavored jello,” the flavor was excellent and both solo and on bread the texture was exemplary for chicken. Speaking of the bread, warm and fresh country wheat bread with hints of rosemary and thyme was wonderful and consumed excessively with the soft unsalted butter.

For our first course my sister chose the Butternut Squash Veloute with crispy bacon and yukon gold potatoes while I opted for the Shrimp Tian with portabella duxelle, carrot crudite and a truffle vinaigrette. Served excessively hot, my sister’s soup was excellent, but the bold flavors of the squash left little hint of the bacon and potatoes which were undetectable in the creamy puree. While delicious, this dish certainly was the least impressive of the night. My Tian, similarly, was my least impressive choice…and considering its incredible taste that speaks volumes. 4 fresh shrimp, halved and served cold over a bed of chopped portabella’s mixed with a creamy vinaigrette and topped with a whimsical carrot slaw was a wonderful starter and a mere glimpse at what was to come in terms of contrasting tastes and textures.

Approximately 20 minutes passed and I was next brought something I didn’t expect; the best presentation of sweetbreads I’ve ever tasted. Better than dishes 3-4x its price in Vegas and Cleveland, the Veal sweetbread lasagna with celeri root and whole grain mustard Bordelaise was exquisite. Three large pieces of flawlessly pan-seared sweetbread covered with an herb sauce with hints of cinnamon and mustard, plus two flawless noodles and crispy white celery root. The price of the dish said appetizer but the portion said entrée anywhere else. Considering this can be had for half-price at the bar during the week, I’ll be back.

Fully enthralled by the sweetbreads, another 20 minutes passed before we were each served a honey and apricot sorbet palate cleanser. Better than Jeni’s splendid sorbets and a totally unexpected treat this only served to further amaze me with the Refectory…that is, until 20 minutes later when we were wowed once again.

For my sister the trio of veal, rabbit sausage, and lobster ravioli with morel sauce and for myself the Coquille St. Jacques with Scallop Mousseline, leek fondue and 'Bonne Femme' sauce. Having never tasted rabbit before, my sister was very impressed by the flavor and texture and I had to agree that it was a stunning representation. My sister also noted that the veal was delicious and tender while the lobster ravioli was large and tender, but not quite on par with the version at Worthington Inn. The Coquille, essentially a scallop and egg quiche covered with a buttery garlic and leek reduction, was once fantastic and almost a seafood custard in texture. Having never tasted a Coquille before, I must admit it left me wanting more.

Satiated but not “full” in a bad way, dessert was up next and once again came with surprises…in this case a third dessert complementary from the owner in celebration of my sister’s birthday. For myself, the menu left no question – Brioche pumpkin bread pudding with Mascarpone Ice Cream and Butterscotch Sauce and for my sister the Opera Gateau with chocolate covered coffee beansCrème Anglaise and chocolate sauce. From the house? The warm pear tart with pistachio Frangipane and pistachio Ice Cream (as originally made by Paul Bocuse himself.)

Starting with the Opera, all I can do is be impressed. Like Tiramisu without the rum, but with more chocolate the dish was fantastic…fantastic enough that I got a sliver and listened to my sister moan about how amazing it was for the rest of the evening. Next up, the tart…and more ‘wow.’ Beautiful in presentation and better in taste – a light pastry crust was thinly pressed to the plated and then layered with thinly sliced pears that were dusted with cinnamon and sugar and pan fried. This masterpiece was then surrounded with an artistic array of colors with flavors including raspberry and pistachio and topped with a small ball of flawless ice-cream…had the meal ended with dessert I’d have been plenty impressed…however there was something better.

In a city with many subpar bread puddings I only hoped the Refectory could do right and thankfully my hopes were met…met to the standard of the second best bread pudding I’ve ever tasted anywhere. Succulent cinnamon and nutmeg, dense and textural pumpkin brioche, sweet golden raisins, and a caramel sauce to die for all perfectly balanced by the best vanilla ice cream I’ve ever tasted…there was no way to eat this slow enough and yes, I used my finger to get every last drop out of the ramekin. While I call this the second best I’ve ever tasted (better than Keller, Lagasse, or Wynn’s mother,) I imagine that if it were set on a table directly next to Nancy Olson’s from Gramercy Tavern I’d be hard pressed to make a choice.

After dinner I had a wonderful cup of coffee; a rarity in Columbus since most restaurants seem to rely on Stauf’s mediocrity for their beans, and the bill was delivered while we sat and chatted about the amazing quality of the meal we’d experienced. A total with tax and tip of less than $130 was a bargain when compared to similar experiences in bigger cities and the server stopped by to tell us about the weekly bistro menu and half priced appetizers…possibly the best dining bargain in Columbus…even the owner himself stopped by to thank us for coming in.

Sure The Refectory is not on the same plane with Alex or Le Cirque and the multiple canapes, petit fores, and madelines but the price was less than a third and frankly you don't always need 18k gold bathroom fixtures, silverware handcrafted in France, and lobster so rare it can only be caught off the coast of Italy. All told, I went into The Refectory with great expectations and had all of them not only met, but bested. In a city that many deem a "chain restaurant haven," the the tastes, flavors, and presentation were all immaculate and I couldn't have been happier with the experience at The Refectory. I will most certainly be back in the future.

Handke's Cuisine, Columbus Ohio

Perhaps I’ve been eating out too often and perhaps my standards have become too lofty…but dining out in Columbus has been relatively unimpressive recently aside from Kihachi. Don’t get me wrong, I love our local dining scene as a whole, but I do believe recent trips to New York and Vegas have jaded me. That being said, after 18 straight days of gastroenterology service my family was in town and I wanted to get out and relax…having heard great things we settled on Handke’s prior to a trip to the Agora V. Nothing like classic French before indie art.

Reservations were made for 5:30 and our party of three was greeted graciously by the affordable and friendly valet before heading down the first of two staircases to the wine cellar that houses Chef Handke’s kitchen and dining area. On the way down to the dining area one is greeted by beautiful stone work, heavy woods, and the myriad awards won by Handke’s across the globe; an impressive collection to say the least. Arriving downstairs we were greeted by the quiet and elegant dining room and the host who led us to our seats. For the first one hour of our meal we were the only patrons in the house.

Quickly upon seating our waitress Julie stopped by to deliver water and menus and later returned with the specials du jour. While friendly and attentive, it was clear that Julie was relatively new as she fumbled occasionally and had to be reminded for things such as tea refills for my aunt and additional bread servings for the table. Soon after orders were placed we were delivered an amuse bouche of Duck Confit with peppers on toast. Crispy with perfectly cooked and marinated duck and mild peppers this dish definitely gave me great expectations for the meal. Dinner rolls were next served, fresh and individual, a suitably hearty French bread with an airy and buttery texture and ample “soaking” capacity for sauces.

Appetizers were ordered by myself and my mother and we opted for the two soups of the day, a Pumpkin Cinnamon Soup with Chives and Creme Fraiche and the Lobster Bisque Chantilly. Both dishes were served warm, but were clearly dished out of stock pots (the kitchen was visible from our seats) as opposed to individually prepared. The Lobster Bisque was good, but in my opinion a bit oversalted and over-seasoned…certainly not “bad” but not on par with that at Lindey’s or Spagio. Contrary to the Bisque, the Pumpkin Soup was fantastic with a little bit of sweetness and a little bit of spice that contrasted well with the smooth and velvety pumpkin texture…per usual, crème fraiche makes everything better.

Appetizers clear we sat and talked for approximately 15 minutes before the main courses arrived. It was around this time that we really realized how quiet the dining room was…too quiet in fact as we were treated to a relatively unprofessional discourse between two kitchen staff about the (expletive) candidates in the upcoming election. Thankfully our waitress soon stopped by to deliver our meals and when told of the unpleasantness she informed the staff members…no apology was offered, but at least they stopped. Service issues aside, onto the main event…

For mains my aunt selected the Grilled Black Angus Beef Tenderloin Steak, Maitre d' butter, Savory Gorgonzola Bread Pudding, and Parisienne Vegetables while my mom opted for the Roasted Marinated Lightly Smoked Pork Loin Steak with Smokey Haricot Verts & Sweet Potato Mousseline. While I do not eat beef, my aunt’s steak was huge and she loved it. The vegetables were sweet, buttery, and perfectly done…the bread pudding…read on. Mom’s pork was excellent, though perhaps a bit overdone for my taste, while the mousseline was wonderfully decadent with flavors of cinnamon and spice balanced by a salty and buttery smooth potatoes.

For my main I selected the nightly special; Grilled Bison Tenderloin and Foie Gras with Shitake Pinot Noir Demi Glace, Poached Asparagus, and Savory Gorgonzola Bread Pudding. Bison, Foie, Shitakes, and Bread Pudding on the same plate? Bliss. Smokey, thick, and cooked perfectly medium the bison was flawless and without an ounce of fat…except of course for the well seared slice of foie gras gracing its top and the sweet demi glace beneath. Three separate layers, three totally different tastes and textures, yet all melding together to a wonderful whole that was even greater than the sum of its parts. Cooked tender and lightly seasoned, the asparagus was good without being intrusive. The bread pudding, a hearty brioche with hints of cream offsetting a potent and tangy gorgonzola - All I can do is say “wow, why didn’t I think of this before?” It was divine and a reason alone to visit Handke’s.

Per usual, dinner out always necessitates dessert and once again Handke’s food didn’t disappoint. While I wasn’t especially sold on their “Zagat’s #1 Crème Brule in North America” ordered by my mother, the brown sugar flavor was definitely a different angle on a classic dish. Rosendale’s was better. My aunt, always indecisive (and gluttonous) opted for the dessert symphony consisting of petite versions of many of Handke’s classics – the Creme Brule, Chocolate Terrine, Cheesecake, Berries in a Basket, Apple Strudel, and Drunken Pears. While each was delicious, the drunken pears and berries in a basket were most certainly the show stealers from the options I tasted with the pears giving me a whole new appreciation of marinating with wine.

My dessert, once again the nightly special, was a delectable Grand Marnier Soufflé with Raspberry Coulis. Without overstating I can definitely say that this is the best soufflé I’ve ever experienced with strong hints from the cognac and orange shining through the wonderfully airy cake and a potent yet sweet raspberry reduction served warm over top. Large in portion and light enough to leave me satiated without feeling stuffed I was very happy with the selection.

Sure Chef Handke has won awards across the globe, but the fact of the matter is that the master isn’t often in the kitchen and while his chef de cuisine is undoubtedly a talented man, I’d certainly love a chance to eat when the chef himself is in the kitchen and the restaurant in a little more lively. Aside from the small service issues the meal was excellent and definitely amongst the best in Columbus. Without the “hipster” quotient of High Street I’d strongly recommend Handke’s as a great place for a romantic evening or a dinner with family and friends and all would place Handke’s in the ‘hidden gem’ category with Wothington Inn, just not quite as magnificent.