Conviction, Toronto ON Canada

Present in many incarnations since debuting in 2005 as a Bakery and Bistro, Marc Thuet really doesn’t need much of an introduction in Toronto’s dining scene. Classically trained, uniquely creative, and often cited as a master of complex flavors, Thuet’s Bite Me was locally and critically celebrated but unfortunately not exactly what the chef and his wife/Business partner Biana Zorich were looking for – given these things and the chef’s personally “rough” history the next step was a bold one. Opening shop earlier this year Conviction reads like something from a social worker’s dream – a high end business intended to be staffed by ex-convicts. As a fan of great service as much as great cooking I have to say that the concept sold me – how exactly would they pull this off, using largely unrefined servers to deliver a refined dining experience?

E-mailing the restaurant to inquire about the use of photography and the possibility of ordering a dinner item during the weekend brunch I was greeted very pleasantly by Biana herself who stated that photography would be no problem and the chef would be glad to show off his talents. After talking with my host for the weekend she agreed that Conviction seemed like a good choice and reservations were made for 12:30 – hopefully plenty of time to dine and make it to the Hockey Hall of Fame Charity Game at 2:00pm at the Air Canada Centre.

Arriving ten minutes early my friend and I ascended the narrow stairs up to Conviction’s beautiful second floor location overlooking King Street and were greeted by a very pleasant young man at the hostess stand. Collecting on our reservation the host said they’d “been expecting us” and confirmed that he’d heard we made a special request and he would let the kitchen know we had arrived. Led swiftly to a great seat overlooking the street we were both impressed by the unique items being enjoyed by neighboring diners as well as the beautiful layout of the room, art, and tables. Moments later our server arrived – a short, friendly, and somewhat flamboyant fellow – who delivered menus and offered drinks. Clearly somewhat new on the job, especially the brunch (by his own admission,) I have to say that there were many aspects of the service that were less than perfect – menu descriptions inaccurate and water refills slow and requiring repeat requests, but overall it didn’t distract from the meal and everyone we dealt with was very pleasant.

Waiting approximately 25 minutes before my first dish arrived I can most assuredly say the wait was worth it. Complexly entitled Foie Gras Casserole with Maple Syrup Glazed Sweetbreads, Boudin Noir, Grapes, Pineapple, and Truffle Foam this amalgam of high end ingredients was small in portion yet enormous in taste, texture, concept, and “wow factor.” Featuring high notes most predominantly from the maple syrup and the pineapple with powerful base notes from the crisp sweetbreads and unctuous foie plus a lingering truffle “breath” and the savoriness of the sausage it is hard to imagine the experience without tasting it, but the only dish as complex that I’ve experienced recently was the egg-jar at The Modern. Sweet yet earthy, fatty yet vegetal, crisp at times and other times smooth as silk – all in all brilliant and a different experience with each bite.

Enthralled with appetizer it was only a short time before the main dishes arrived – for my friend the Omelette pizza à l’Éspagnol with ashed goat cheese (a dish I unfortunately failed to taste as I gushed over my own dish and she finished this rapidly and happily) and for myself the Pain perdu sandwich with seared smoked pork loin and maple syrup. An enormous dish featuring two thick slices of buttery Brioche that had been perfectly pan caramelized the sandwich housed two thick slices of smoked peameal crusted pork loin and was then doused in fresh maple syrup, fresh fruits, and a pomegranate reduction. As one might imagine given the ingredients this dish was fantastic – a flawless concoction of sweet and fruity, buttery and crispy, and salty and savory. Enormous in portion and weighing in at only $17 I would personally consider this one of the best dining deals I’ve recently experienced and would strongly recommend it to anyone who loves French toast, pork, or simply great food.

With neither of us “stuffed” and both of us very happy with the food and experience so far we decided to split a dessert and requested the order be somewhat expedited given the time (around 1:20 when we placed the dessert order.) Arriving in only ten minutes we were next served Bread and butter pudding, chocolate ice cream and crème anglaise. The most “classic” of the dishes of the afternoon, this dish once again impressed the eye and the palate. Featuring two heavily buttered slices of croissant pudding topped simply with chopped strawberries and creamy anglaise and served in a pool of melting chocolate ice cream I have to admit that this was an excellent bread pudding but I personally would have opted for a somewhat less dark chocolate to avoid overwhelming the nuances of the pudding itself. As it turned out, though, my friend loved the ice cream while I indulged in the pudding.

Finishing up the meal I paid the check and thanked our server for the excellent meal – he assured us he would pass the compliments along to the kitchen, as well. After a quick trip to the restroom we made our way down the stairs still reminiscing of the wonderful food and were en route to the Air Canada Centre by 1:40 – perfect timing that put me in my seat only 5 minutes before the ceremonies began. Cheers to a chef willing to take chances, both in his food and in his service, especially in today’s economy – having had a number of great meals in the past years I can say without a doubt that I’d take breakfast at Conviction over anything that NYC or Chicago has to offer and I look forward to whatever Chef Thuet decides to do next.

Bonjour Brioche, Toronto ON Canada

Let me be the first to admit that I am a big fan of French bistro-style breakfasts - I rank Keller's Bouchon and Francois Payard's options as well as Butler and the Chef amongst my favorite breakfast/brunch spots of all time. With those things noted and the fantastic reviews of Bonjour Brioche listed on myriad Toronto review sites the decision for Sunday Breakfast was easy - especially since Bonjour is closed on Mondays. Staying only a half-mile west of BB's Queen East location and waking as early as ever I first decided to go for a run in order to build up an appetite and then after a quick shower I found myself at the restaurant's side entrance only 5 minutes after the doors opened at 8am.

Making my way into the small space I was surprised to find the restaurant already half full - and by the time I left at 9:00 there was already a line of 10 waiting outside. Taking a seat near the window I browsed the small shop's interior which features approximately 15 tables, a delectable looking pastry case, a chalkboard of specials, and a small coffee cart full of newspapers and magazines - towards the back was a kitchen with doors wide open where one could see two chefs working dough while another manned the grill. Greeted by my pleasant server I received the small menu and coffee was poured (this time only equal was available, unlike A+U's where only splenda can be found.) A relatively standard blend for which I was originally double charged I must admit that given the plethora of coffee shops in Toronto, the restaurant coffees could use some work.

Browsing the specials I have to admit some sounded interesting - particularly the chorizo bread pudding and the fig tart, but given the wonderful sounding options on the standard menu I instead opted for one sweet and one savory. Placing my orders and receiving a refill on my coffee I picked up a copy of one of the local music magazines and read until my orders arrived - only approximately 15 minutes, impressively, given the hustle-bustle of the restaurant. Served piping hot and direct from the kitchen my server asked if I needed anything else and after getting a glass of water and a third mug of coffee I was left to enjoy.

Starting with the savory - a small but succulent croque madame was presented and featured a few thin slices of black forest ham and Gruyere cheese atop a buttery brioche and topped with a single fried egg. Adequate but certainly nothing to write home about the dish was largely a success due to the quality of the brioche while the other ingredients did their job merely adequately. Served along with the sandwich was a very nice green salad topped with a mild oil and vinegar. Having had incredible croques at Bouchon, B+C, and Payard I have to say I'd not order this sandwich again or recommend it to others - it was simply too ordinary and small.

Somewhat disappointed by the croque I next delved into the Baked French Toast - and I most certainly was not disappointed. Having had a number of excellent French Toasts - both "normal" and "bread pudding style" - in the past couple years I can say without a shadow of a doubt that this ranks in the top three along with the version at Brenda's French Soulfood in San Francisco and that at The Country Club at the Wynn in Vegas. Featuring the same buttery brioche as the croque but absolutely saturated with cinnamon and an eggy custard the toast was served with a wonderfully flavorful and warm side of pure Canadian Maple syrup and the layers of flavor simply melted together forming a singular flavor that harkened a cinnamon bun, but better. Crisp on the outside, spongy within and ample in portion due to the density and decadence I slowly enjoyed this dish and rather wished I'd have opted for two sweets instead of the croque - really, an astounding dish showing that when done right something "simple" can actually be sublime.

After the great French toast I briefly considered picking up some pastries for later in the day but instead decided to show some restraint given my later eating plans. Paying the modest bill after the double coffee-charge was removed I was pleasantly surprised that I felt in no way rushed to pay the bill or leave despite the line. Finishing up an article in the paper about The Swell Season I made my way to the door and was bid farewell by two of the servers who appropriately offered a au revoir from Bonjour.

Bymark, Toronto ON Canada

When planning my visit to Toronto I knew I’d have time for three breakfasts, three lunches, and two dinners – a fan of unique experiences and avant-garde cuisine I knew Colborne Lane would be one of my dinners and the other was a tossup between the who’s who of Toronto dining – Splendido, North 44, Scaramouche, Trevor, George, and Auberge all got significant consideration – but in the end the decision was made to visit North 44’s sister restaurant, Bymark. Featuring a unique menu focused strongly on Canadian sourced ingredients and a number of options, both sweet and savory, that seemed to challenge “the norm” I contacted Bymark nearly a month before my planned trip and inquired as to whether a tasting menu was available so that I might experience as many dishes as possible. Fielding my e-mail in less than eight hours restaurant manager Jessica Sloan informed me that while the restaurant did not offer a nightly tasting the chef would be “delighted” to craft a menu to my liking if I informed him of which dishes interested me most – an offer I was more than happy to take them up on. Informing the kitchen of my likes and dislikes I was quoted a price for my selected menu and confirmed my reservation for one at 7:30pm on Saturday evening.

Arriving approximately ten minutes early at the Dominon Bank Towers I had no difficulty finding the restaurant and on checking in with the hostess I was welcomed warmly with an offer to check my jacket – an offer I declined as I rather prefer dining in a suit when the opportunity presents. Without delay I was met by a second hostess who then led me to my table in the middle of the main dining room and soon I was met my one of my two servers from the evening who presented the wine list, filled my water, and assured me that all was prepared for my requested menu. Browsing around the room I was impressed by the heavy wooden layout of the room and well sourced overhead lighting but was admittedly a bit taken aback by the level of noise coming from a large party of sixteen – a party that was fortunately transported to the private dining room when my neighbors (apparently regulars and certainly high maintenance given their multiple requests from the server throughout the evening) complained. Once the noise died down I have to admit that setting and service were excellent albeit a tad aloof and perhaps a little overburdened by the myriad requests from my neighbors.

Getting things started, my first dish was an amuse from the kitchen – a Lobster, apple, and crème fraiche “taco” served on a beet tortilla. Featuring an ample amount of fresh lobster accented by sweet gala apples and tamed by the tangy crème this dish was excellent when paired with the crispy and earthy-yet-sweet beet chip. Small, fun, inventive, and delicious – an excellent way to start things off.

My first proper course of the evening was perhaps the only near-miss of the evening for myself (and a total miss for my neighbors who took one bite before returning it to the kitchen.) Entitled calamari and octopus salad with carrot, chorizo and chili citrus dressing this was not an item for the faint of heart – or those with heartburn. Featuring a sizable portion of circular cut cephalopod “noodles” (akin to Blackbird or Scarpetta) mixed with similarly cut carrots, the textures of the seafood were wonderful while the meaty chorizo provided an ample foil to the briny flavors of the sea. Unfortunately most of the nuance of the seafood was lost due to the overpowering dressing which tasted like an admixture of fire and sour. Thankfully served with a refill of my water and the table bread (an unremarkable olive and white, plus a very good multigrain) I was able to navigate this dish but very much do feel a more gentle hand with the spices would greatly benefit the otherwise excellent quality and presentation of this dish.

Dish two of the evening was everything dish one was not – brilliant, balanced, and a smashing success to both the palate and the eyes. Deemed “Open faced foie gras “B.L.T.” with fried quail egg and spiced stone fruit” this dish – right down to the quotation marks – reminded me of something you would expect to see at Keller’s French Laundry. Featuring a lovely piece of seared foie pan fried with peach compote and cinnamon stacked atop a piece of brioche, the dish was finished with a crispy piece of Berkshire bacon, thin sliced tomato and butter lettuce, and topped with a fried quail egg. Poured over top of the sandwich were the natural pan juices from the preparation. Unctuous and succulent as always the foie’s taste was perfectly complimented by the seasonings while the crisp bacon, buttery brioche, and lettuce added texture. Interestingly, despite the creaminess of the liver itself another layer was added by the addition of the egg – something I had not experienced before but quite excellent to say the least.

Dish three of the evening was the restaurant’s signature – and a dish every bit worth the title. Crisp frites with butter braised lobster and classic béarnaise - poutine style was actually delivered to my table by the chef du cuisine and featured approximately 20 crisp frites stacked inside a lobster shell and absolutely loaded with butter poached lobster. Topping the dish was a creamy béarnaise sauce with high notes of lemon and butter plus more nuanced flavors of wine and onion. Whereas the dressing on the salad mired the flavor of the dish, the béarnaise on this dish only served to accent the wonderful lobster and crispy-salty fries. Say what you will about “haute-poutine,” this dish was wonderful and alone worth the trip to Bymark – though I do wonder whether the average diner could finish a full sized portion as the tasting portion was so decadent.

Prior to beginning the “main courses” of the meal I was brought a palate cleansing sorbet – a nice touch. Described as a house made cherry sorbet with lime-peel the icy ball was intensely tangy and very refreshing. While I’ve never seen a sorbet served between appetizers and mains (usually it arrives pre-dessert) I actually liked this placement in the meal as the next dishes were less “fatty” or “creamy” and more focused on nuance, spice, and contrast of flavors.

The fourth dish of the evening was presented quite elegantly by my server and finished tableside. Entitled duck confit ravioli with chestnut puree, crisp parsnip and spiced cranberries I was served a single plump raviolo absolutely packed with clove and nutmeg accented duck leg and topped with a crispy garnish of fried parsnip. Served alongside and overtop the pasta was a creamy sweet-yet-earthy chestnut puree plus cinnamon sweetened cranberries with a mild alcoholic tang. Featuring aspects of protein and carb, sweet and earthy, creamy and acidic this dish was truly excellent and when I saw my neighbor order the full portion (three large ravioli plus all the fixings) I was actually quite impressed at the menu price, as well. Speaking of my neighbors, it was at this point of the meal that they began their somewhat demanding behavior once again asking my server how I was getting so many different dishes and “what made me so special?” They also demanded of myself how I was able to eat so much – the third time that had happened that day.

Dish five was another experiment in blending the sea with the earth and much like the octopus salad it was not perfect, but it was quite good. Titled giant prawn with soupy chorizo sausage risotto the dish featured an extremely large and fresh prawn that had clearly been poached and then grilled served standing upright in a small pool of creamy risotto with chorizo chunks and sausage foam. While the risotto itself was absolutely well prepared with only a slight degree of toothiness and the sausage soup quite mild, the prawn itself was largely overcooked and even somewhat difficult to cut with the combination of fork and butter knife. While tasty, I honestly considered sending this dish back for a better prepared prawn but unfortunately my server was otherwise occupied with the neighboring table who continued to ask questions regarding my menu, whether there were any desserts with no cream, butter, or milk products, etc. While certainly not bad, I do think a gentler hand would have benefited the execution of this dish – nothing harms great seafood like too much heat.

My final savory of the evening was the roasted Cornish Hen with roasted Brussels sprouts, potato gnocchi and natural reduction – it was remarkable. Perfectly seared and succulent the meaty hen simply shredded off the bone with minimal effort and no knife. Accompanying the hen were two halved and pan-caramelized Brussels sprouts and two large plump gnocchi that easily gave way to their creamy interiors on mastication – these items as well as the hen were topped with the natural reduction from the hen and sprouts and the whole dish was succulent, salty, and well balanced between creamy and crispy textures as well as pungent and smooth flavors.

Finishing up my savories I was offered coffee or a cheese selection and after declining both and chatting with my neighbors for a few moments I was presented with a trio of miniature desserts – specifically the Chocolate Caramel Tart with Peanut Butter Mousse and Caramel Corn, the Passion Fruit Creme Brulee, and the Cinnamon Bun Tower with Frangelico Icing. Starting first with the crème brulee as I anticipated it to be my least favorite I have to say I was mildly impressed by the manner in which the passion fruit shined through but as usual I was underwhelmed – crème brulee simply tastes like sugar to me. My second taste of the trio was the cinnamon bun tower – a dish I was excited by in its description but largely unimpressed by in its flavors. With a notable alcoholic hue provided by the Frangelico, I found the overall effect of the dish to be not much like a cinnamon bun but more like butterscotch. Perhaps a larger portion would have been better or perhaps the accoutrements on the solo dessert would have helped. The final taste of the evening was provided by the Chocolate Tart and where the other desserts failed to impress, the tart shined. Tasting somewhat akin to dark chocolate Snickers bar in a pastry shell I particularly found the addition of the caramel corn delicious and playful – if I returned I’d opt for the full sized version of this instead of the trio.

When it was all said and done I paid the bill - $120 Canadian and felt the meal was actually a relatively good bargain for the quality of the food, setting, and accommodations by the staff. While service was adequate I have to say that my server’s tongue ring did seem a bit out of place for fine dining and though I certainly can’t blame her for my neighbors, I do feel that if she’d have been less involved with their “issues” she’d have inquired more frequently as to how I was enjoying everything. A talented kitchen staff with some unique ideas, I do feel that some dishes were not executed as well as one would expect while other dishes could use some tweaking to more properly highlight the quality of the ingredients and the chef’s vision – particularly the cinnamon bun tower and the octopus salad. That said – I’d return in a heartbeat for the poutine, the foie, and the ravioli. I’d additionally strongly suggest to the kitchen that a daily, weekly, or even monthly tasting menu to let the chef flex his creativity would be a great idea.

Lai Wah Heen, Toronto ON Canada

After a great visit to the AGO with an old friend it was time for lunch. Originally trying to decide between Moroco’s Brunch and Lai Wah Heen’s Dim Sum Lunch we decided on Dim Sum as I’d already had plenty of sweets for breakfast and I’d heard from reliable sources that Chef Chan’s dim sum was some of the best available outside of the mainland of China. Having been largely underwhelmed by my previous experience with Dim Sum (admittedly a cheap experience more than three years ago) I honestly wasn’t sure what to expect as we made our way into the Metropolitan Hotel and inquired on the restaurant’s location at the front desk. Informed that the restaurant was tucked away on the second floor we made our way up the stairs and shortly found ourselves waiting at the hostess station.

Greeted promptly by a friendly young Chinese woman we were asked if we had reservations and when we responded to the negative we were told this was “not a problem at all” and swept away to a table in the main dining room – a beautiful two top near the stairs and adjacent to the large bay windows with an excellent view of the street and the room. Browsing the immediate dining area as we were presented with our menus, water, and a pot of green tea I was impressed by the mixed population – older, younger, Chinese, Canadian, businessmen and families were all represented in large numbers and the room had a “buzz” without being loud.

Instructed on how to order from the check-cards by our server my friend and I slowly went through the arduous process of deciding how best to experience the maximal amount of tastes without being too full to walk out – a process that easily took twenty minutes and a few glasses of water, but a time during which no pressure was imposed by our servers who were happy to answer any questions. Orders placed the young lady tried to tell us that we’d ordered too much – the second time (of three, actually) that day someone questioned my ability to eat – and I assured her we would be okay.

Ordering on separate checks (or cheques for Canadian readers) but sharing almost everything we ordered, the first item was the only non-dim sum option – an $18 pick off the appetizer section of the menu. Simply titled pan-seared foie gras with asparagus, dressed with sweet ginger sauce the dish came exactly as advertised. Featuring a modest slice of seared foie that was perfectly veined and cleaned, nicely poached asparagus, and a thickened sweet ginger sauce the dish didn’t really re-invent the wheel, but instead focused on flawless preparations of each ingredient with the unctuous liver contrasting nicely with the crisp vegetable and offset by the sweet pungency of the ginger. Simple and effective albeit somewhat unimaginative and difficult to consume without a knife to cut the asparagus.

Following the appetizer dish ensued an onslaught of dim sum options, each beautifully presented by any number of servers and eventually amounting to a substantial amount of food on the table. Ordered by my companion and untasted by myself were the steamed calamari with black pepper sauce, the steamed Lobster dumpling with shrimp and diced vegetables, butter, and garlic and the Steamed dumpling of Waygu beef accompanied with thinly sliced Waygu beef, in chili oil – a dish that led her to make an uncanny number of “food sounds” clearly indicating her love of the dish.

Ordered by myself and consumed either solo or shared with my companion – well, there was a heck of a lot of food. Kicking things off, from Chef Chan’s “Innovative” menu, a steamed dumpling of smoked sturgeon, shrimp and minced butter squash and a steamed crystal purse filled with five spicy shredded duckling & heart of garlic. If the measure of a chef’s skill in dim sum is gauged by the creativity, flavor, and thinness of his noodles then I’ve no doubt we were in the presence of a master – the translucent noodles alone were works of art with my friend’s lobster featuring the crustacean’s characteristic shape and the sturgeon presented as a small fish while the purse did appear to be a tied-off bag. More impressive than the appearance, however, were the textures and flavors of the dumplings with the mildness of the sturgeon perfectly complimented by the sweetness of the squash and the spicy anise/clove/ginger bite of the five spice duck proving an adequate foil to the pungent and sweet heart of garlic. While certainly not “cheap,” the quality of the ingredients was apparent and I’d gladly re-order each dish again.

Following the “innovative” were the “Lai Wah Heen Classics,” each served in groups of three. Starting with the baked mini puff pastry filled with cured ham, shrimp & pork and the Steamed Pork Buns I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the pork and the degree of saltiness of both options – a clearly Chinese interpretation of steamed pork featuring familiar flavors of allspice and cinnamon. While the Buns were decent, I personally found them a tad pedestrian compared to what Chang is doing in New York City and the overall flavor was vastly inferior to the puff pastries with their sweet and crisp shell proving a much more adequate mode of delivery for the savory proteins than the bland moist buns. Significantly less expensive than the options from the Innovative menu these two options were actually quite filling.

The next round of dishes were again served in threes, yet somewhat more interesting than the pork dishes. The first dish, Deep-fried taro root paste dumpling filled with sweet plum & minced duckling was an absolutely astonishing dish that my companion summed up as “light, but really dense.” Featuring a crispy and airy taro root shell absolutely stuffed with an amalgam of chopped plums and minced duck I have to say that this may have been my favorite flavor pairing of the afternoon and it honestly could’ve served as a dessert or a savory – an absolute must order. The second option, Filet of bass & thousand years egg in rice roll served with sweet soy sauce. Having never tasted the unique egg-preserving technique prior to this I have to say I didn’t know what to expect, but what I received was superb. Mildly salty and somewhat sour the egg proved a balance to the smooth and meaty bass while the sweetened soy brought out the flavors of both the egg and the fish without masking any of their more subtle notes.

More or less stuffed at this point we opted for only one small dessert – traditional Chinese Egg Custards. Served as four small 1/2oz tarts the custards were barely set with the buttery pasty and only a thin skin of custard preventing the creamy vanilla egg compote from being a liquid – absolutely delicious and flawlessly executed – a great end to a wonderful meal.

Making our way to the exit after paying the somewhat impressive bill (I mean, Dim Sum isn’t supposed to be “haute cuisine” normally) we took a look at some of the party menus and both agreed that Lai Wah Heen would be an awesome place to return with a larger group in order to sample some of the noodle and rice dishes (normally intended for parties of 4-6 according to the menu) as well as the myriad soups and entrees. Thoroughly satiated and happy we made our way out the doors where our hostess bid us farewell. While I can’t say I’m a dim sum expert by any stretch, I can say I’ve been to some great restaurants and would rank Lai Wah Heen’s presentations, flavors, and service favorably amongst many of them.

Nadege Patisserie and Aunties and Uncles, Toronto ON Canada

Making my first trip to Toronto in over two years for the Hall of Fame Game and Hockey Hall of Fame Induction gala I was excited to make my first visit as an epicure who actually has the money to experience the best of Toronto’s cuisine. Arriving early en route from Buffalo on Saturday with plans for Brunch at Auntie’s and Uncles, I first wanted to check out some French pastries and my GPS led me straight to the doors of Nadege. Entering the shop just after 7:30 the team was hard at work in the open back kitchen while a single small woman with a pronounced French accent was placing items in the cases.

Stark, bright, and even perhaps “chic” the layout of the café was clearly designed not to evoke that contrived “bistro-feel” that places such as Payard evoke, but rather to focus one’s eyes on the colorful treats filling the cases – more gallery than restaurant. Browsing the sandwiches and chocolates I will admit that they looked tempting, but I was there for the sweets. Asking for descriptions of a couple items I settled on two macarons, an almond croissant, and something I’d never seen before – an homage of sorts to the macaron enitled “Marie Antoinette.” Paying the modest bill I thanked the clerk and made my way to the park to indulge.

Beginning with the croissant, the only word that comes to mind is wow. A perfect buttery crust, crispy exterior with a great yield of fluffiness inside, and plenty of nuance provided by the almonds, almond extract, and powdered sugar. While not quite as stunning as the version at Payard, the texture was spot on and easily ranks as the best croissant I’ve had in the last year.

Following the croissant I decided to sample the “simple” macarons before diving into the haute-macaron. Talking to the young clerk I learned that Nadege imports both the almond flour and most of the fillings for their 10 daily macarons and although I wanted to “compare” them to some of my other experiences, the unique selections were just too good to pass up – thus I went with one “known” and one “totally unknown.” The first, cappuccino, was essentially Nadege’s version of coffee – and a stunning version at that. Featuring a light crumb and potent coffee filling, the shells were perfectly baked with a crisp snap yielding a pillowy cookie of flavor – every bit on par with those at La Maison du Chocolate in New York in flavor and lagging only minimally in texture. The second macaron, Olive Oil, was very unique and quite similar to the cappuccino in the cookie, but nothing like it in filling. Featuring a smooth and buttery filling with just a hint of sweetness the cookie was like the essence of olive oil – a cookie version of Batali’s heavenly gelato at Otto.

My final selection, the Marie Antoinette, was essentially a rose macaron topped with a large dollop of creamy custard and then spotted with a multitude of mini-macaron cookies. Selecting a small instead of the larger cake version this item was approximately three bites large and absolutely wonderful – almost a blend of a macaron and an éclair – with the high notes of the rose macaron most notable, but also the sweetness of each of the mini-macarons coming through as well.

Having read about Chef Nourian’s pedigree and recent arrival from Paris I expected good things and most certainly was not let down – on a whole the macarons were nearly as good as La Maison, the croissant one of the best to ever grace my palate, and the Marie Antoinette a beautiful take on a classic dessert. While $11 for my selections did seem a tad steep at first, the price was definitely justified by the quality and it left me plenty of room for dessert after a walk through Kensington en route to A+U’s.

Arriving at Auntie’s and Uncles kitschy little store approximately 10 minutes before opening I was glad to see that there was no line – given some of the reviews I expected something like Dottie’s True Blue Café with people lined up 20 deep at opening. As the doors opened up myself and two others made our way in and were allowed to sit “wherever we like” – approximately ten minutes later every single seat in the place was full and a small line had formed. Handed a menu as I walked in I was oddly seated for nearly 15 minutes before orders were taken and coffee offered because two of the employees were actually sitting at a table eating their breakfast – not exactly professional, especially for a place so busy.

Once orders were finally placed I have to admit I liked AU’s design and concept – incredibly fresh food cooked right in front of the customers and a set menu plus daily specials based on the cook’s whim. Coffee was served quickly once my server finally finished up my meal, but unfortunately the only sweetener options were splenda and plain sugar – call me crazy but I quite like Equal. Coffee was adequate but certainly not designer – a relatively acidic blend no better than Tim Horton’s – and refills were slow.

Arriving only ten minutes after I placed my orders, both plates were brought together and both were piping hot and fresh from the kitchen. Having spent the duration of the wait discussing the irony of my neighboring diners being Torontonian basketball fans and myself an Ohioan hockey fan I had to laugh when my neighbor stated that I “ordered too much” and that there was “no way I’d be able to eat all that” – he didn’t even know about Nadege. Having selected one sweet and one savory, a “special” and a “menu item” I figured I’d have a nice sampling of what Auntie’s kitchen could do.

Beginning first with the sweet special, Banana Ricotta Pancakes with cinnamon, fruit, and pure maple syrup – these were excellent. Having had ricotta pancakes once in the past and being largely impressed by the moist pockets of cheese but not sold on the cake texture, Auntie’s and Uncles offering was vastly superior to the last incarnation with a light and airy dough laden with caramelized cinnamon bananas and perfectly complimented by the somewhat bitter yet bold maple syrup. While I’d have preferred the syrup warm this small oversight didn’t hurt the dish and I was glad the kitchen didn’t make the choice to slather the dish with butter like so many others do.

The second dish, a menu “savory” that I’d read rave reviews of honestly didn’t fare as well as the pancakes. Entitled Grilled Brie with Pear Chutney and Walnuts on Challah, I honestly found the dish relatively lacking in flavor. While the bread was beautiful with a mild sweetness coming through the buttery grilled exterior, the pears were largely flavorless (strange given the season,) and the timid brie was vastly overwhelmed by the bitter/earthy walnuts. Well prepared, no doubt, and improved with the addition of some of the syrup from my pancakes, but definitely not something I’d order again – a sad statement considering my love of brie, pears, and grilled cheese in general.

All told I guess I just don’t get the fuss about Auntie’s and Uncles aside from the “cult appeal.” While the pancakes were indeed excellent, the fact that they were a menu special does not assure them to be available daily and the overall “aloofness” of the servers was rather off-putting. Mediocre coffee, an average sandwich, a limited menu (and don’t even get me started on the bathroom)…while I don’t regret the trip and mostly did enjoy my breakfast at Auntie’s and Uncles, in hindsight I’d have rather spent my money on some more of Nadege’s delicacies.