Zingerman's, Ann Arbor MI

It is hard to believe that with the sheer number of times I’ve been to Ann Arbor – football and hockey games, interviews, art shows, concerts, shopping – I had never been to any of the establishments in the Zingerman’s empire. With a focus on fair business practices and all that is local/sustainable plus a Beard Award nominated chef I promised to rectify this situation on my most recent visit to Michigan…and rectify it I did, with visits to every single one of the Zingerman’s establishments during a particularly gluttonous day in Ann Arbor with my mother and aunt.

Arriving early in the breakfast service (7:30am) to the front steps of Zingerman’s Roadhouse we found ample parking and made our way into the restaurant after snapping a few pictures of the oyster shell garden and signature neon sign (featured on the website and formulated using antique glass and neon techniques from the 50s.) Greeted by a friendly young lady we were led almost instantaneously to a large four-top in the main dining room and presented with menus, a cheese list, and even a list of the daily oyster selection. Standing up after the server had walked away to snap some pictures of the kitschy interior the name “Roadhouse” certainly fit – from the collection of hundreds of salt and pepper shakers to the unique posters and knick-knacks found throughout the interior.

Settling back into my seat and ordering coffee – a thick, bold blend with heavy notes of cocoa and floral tones while my aunt opted for tea we perused the menu and discussed how best to sample a multitude of options amongst the three off us. Fielding questions was our pleasant server, Catherine, and after a few moments decisions were made and orders placed. I will note that Catherine was frequently present throughout the meal to check in on us and make sure beverages were filled – between her and the rest of the team there was never a moment where our glasses dropped below 1/3 empty.

Sitting and talking for a while before the food began to arrive it took quite some time before I noticed the benign soundtrack and despite the restaurant being approximately 1/2 full the tables were well enough spaced that the sounds from other tables went largely unheard. Perusing the cheese menu as well as some of the baking classes, lectures, and information regarding the other pieces of the Zingerman’s family we asked our waitress the best way route to the various shops and she gladly provided us a highlighted map. Moments later our food began to arrive and like the service it too was top notch.

Beginning first with the daily pastry basket we were provided with four items for a bargain $6.95. Featuring a steaming hot and crispy cinnamon donut fresh from the fryer, a large chunk of spicy gingerbread, and two types of coffee cake – hot chocolate and sour cream with walnuts – I found each item to be a nearly perfect version of its respective type. While my aunt didn’t fancy the donut as she felt it wasn’t fluffy enough I loved the cakelike texture of the interior as it contrasted to the cinnamon crisp exterior. The favorite of all three of us, however, was the hot cocoa coffee cake – a textbook dense and flavorful cake with hefty notes of smooth chocolate and a thin frosting that tasted like perfect drinking cocoa.

For our main courses my mother selected the “Grits & Eggs” - Stone ground grits topped with two fried eggs, Nueske's applewood smoked bacon and 2-year aged Vermont cheddar and was instantly overwhelmed by the portion the moment it was set before her. Requesting her eggs scrambled this was easily accomplished and although I didn’t sample the eggs, the bacon was remarkable both in firmness (not too crispy, but well done – smoked as opposed to pan fried) and texture – on par with the agave bacon at Frontera Grill. The most remarkable aspect of the dish, however, was the grits – hearty and toothsome, creamy yet sharply accented by the cheese, and plethoric in proportion.

For my aunt’s main course she selected the “Pain Perdu “Fasten” - A Bakehouse French baguette dipped in batter and fried then topped with fresh bananas mascerated in brown sugar and all I can say was that this could have easily doubled as dessert (as a matter of fact, with ice cream it did just that at NOLA in New Orleans.) Only mildly doughy on the interior and crispy with notes of cinnamon, vanilla, and brown sugar on the exterior my aunt loved her dish while I rather wished the bread had been a little more thoroughly soaked. Delicious for sure and substantial in portion the bananas were a liquor-less Foster’s style and complimented the bread nicely.

For my main course I decided on the “Roadhouse French Toast” a dish comprised of cinnamon raisin bread from the Bakehouse soaked through with vanilla bean batter and griddled. Served with a hefty portion of butter from the creamery and pure Michigan maple syrup this was invariably some of the best French Toast I’ve ever tasted – not too thick, not too heavy, toothsome yet delicate – and the combination of mildly grassy butter and thick maple syrup only acted to enhance the vanilla tones to a whole different level.

As an addition to our feast I opted to take a chance on the Biscuits & Chocolate-Bacon Gravy featuring "Gravy" made with bacon, cocoa and milk, served alongside house made buttermilk biscuits and after a single bite I knew I’d made the right decision. Sweet yet savory, salty yet bitter, buttery but texturally complex this dish is an absolute must order for anyone visiting Zingerman’s and currently ranks very high on my list of favorite dishes of 2010. While my aunt, an admitted “boring” eater, didn’t fancy the amalgam and my mother felt it was too decadent to eat much of I personally didn’t mind one bit as I gladly enjoyed both biscuits and every last drop of the wonderful topping.

Settling the modest bill and finishing what was likely my 6th cup of coffee we made our way to the car after a short chat with the hostess about our meal, their other locations, and small talk such as the weather. From start to finish I really can’t say enough about the food, service, or experience at Zingerman’s – and there is no doubt I will be back on my next visit to Michigan for lunch, brunch, or dinner.

Full but not overwhelmingly so (neither mom nor aunt finished their plates) we made our way to the car and set the GPS to the complex containing the Bakehouse, Creamery, Cake House, and Coffee Shop. Choosing to take the back streets as opposed to the highway as suggested by the GPS we weaved through some of the more expensive neighborhoods in Ann Arbor en route to the unexpected warehouse-esque district and found ourselves arriving in front of the Bakeshop shortly after 9am.

Making our way first into the bakeshop we were greeted by a friendly young man who offered us samples of chocolate and vanilla hand-cut marshmallows while we browsed the store. With an innumerable selection of breads, cakes, cookies, and pies we were told we could sample anything we liked and in the duration of our visit browsing books, cookware, and baked goods I did indeed sample a smooth and luxurious olive oil cake, a crispy ginger snap, a “magic” brownie that tasted much like the cocoa coffee cake. In addition to the samples we watched a class through the glass window as they learned to kneed bread and I picked up a hummingbird cupcake to go while my aunt elected to purchase a pretzel roll and my mother picked up a spoon for portioning out cookie dough. Consuming the cupcake later in the day I will note that the flavor was very traditional – hefty notes of banana, pineapple, and raisin with a delightfully light cream cheese frosting.

Moving next to the cakery, a studio of decadent and luxurious looking fondant cakes, and subsequently to the creamery where I tasted a smooth and grassy cheese entitled City Goat (and was offered at least 5 more samples of various cheeses by the helpful staff) we continued to be enthralled by the open access to watching so much of the processes at Zingerman’s – from draining aged cheeses to pulling mozzarella. Finally, making our way to the coffee house we watched (through enormous glass windows) the process of roasting beans, blending the coffees, bagging the finalized product before ordering a cup of a smooth and balanced estate blend from the friendly barista and picking up a modestly priced pound to go.

Heading away from the warehouse complex we next went and wandered the streets of Ann Arbor, stopping in at various stores along the way, before later visiting the oldest of the Zingerman’s establishment - Zingerman’s Deli – and the expanded seating of Zingerman’s Next Door. Entering the deli just before noon I will first note that parking is not readily available – as a matter of fact we circled the block thrice before finding an open meter. When we finally did park and make our way into the small deli we were quickly met with a large (and rapidly expanding) line snaking up to the deli counter. Making our way to the right on entry we soon found ourselves face to face with one of the largest olive oil and vinegar selections I’ve encountered in some time – complete with samples. Tasting a few olive oils and a fantastic raspberry vinegar we next made our way to the deli cases – each containing a vast variety of locally sourced meats as well as luxury imports such as Iberco ham, duck confit, and any number of unique chorizo sausages. A second set of cases contained both Zingerman’s collection of house-made cheeses as well as imports ranging from France to Italy to Spain and West Coast varieties including Humboldt Fog and others. Browsing the sandwich menu (and enormous portions) I understand the appeal of the deli and the hot/prepped foods looked equally delectable.

Making our way out we schlepped next door to, conveniently, Zingerman’s Next Door – essentially the bakery and dessert wing of the deli with additional seating for persons choosing to enjoy their sandwich indoors. Entering the large converted home we found a large collection of chocolates from Amadei, Vosges, Scharffen Berger, Valrhona as well as Zingerman’s Creamery Gelato and a number of bakery items not available at the bakeshop including samples of a smooth and creamy tiramisu and a large, fluffy almond croissant that I had to order despite being quite full.

Paying the modest tab we managed to find a seat and divided the croissant amongst the three of us...and after a single bite each I’m rather certain we all smiled and let out a sigh – what a fantastic croissant. Crisp and flaky exterior, soft and giving interior, crunchy almonds and lightly sweetened on the surface and with a pure almond compote spread thinly within – on par with Payard and Petrossian for best Almond Croissant yet to grace my palate.

When it was all said and done our trek across the Zingerman’s Empire entailed nearly 12 miles, 4.5 hours, and a minimum of 30 tastes – each unique yet somehow familiar, delectable, and served with a smile. From their business model to their execution there really isn’t much that can be said about Zingerman’s that hasn’t already been stated. Sure the prices are not bargain basement and the wait may be a bit longer than average, but what you get in exchange in unabashed quality, commitment, and a dedication to the community – with those things in mind, Zingerman’s is a bargain and an absolute gem for the city of Ann Arbor.

The Whitney, Detroit MI

…I’d driven by the old mansion countless times during my younger days going to hockey games and concerts in Detroit – to be perfectly honest I’d never known it was a restaurant. With my oldest friend soon to be moving from Detroit to Florida and me in town for the first time in approximately a year I figured it would be a nice, quiet setting where we could meet, eat, and catch up. With the rain pounding down and the streets of Detroit largely empty I arrived in front of the elaborate old home around 6:15pm, just prior to our 6:30 reservations – the valet was free but the run from the car was still enough to dampen my shirt.

Greeting my pal at the front door we exchanged a handshake and made our way in – collecting on the reservation we were quickly led to a small two-top in one of the seven downstairs dining rooms with a full view of Woodward Avenue through the enormous bay windows – to be fair we couldn’t have asked for a better seat. Greeted promptly by our server we were presented with the nightly menu, wine list on the back, and offered drinks – for my friend a cabernet and for myself water. Left to peruse the menu it didn’t take us long to make our selections and with orders placed we sat and chatted for quite some time while browsing the room.

Seated for nearly 25 minutes before my water was finally refilled (at my request) an ancillary server next arrived with a basket of hot bread – two relatively uninteresting and dry butter rolls plus two substantially more moist, flavorful, and tasty garlic poppy seed rolls. Served without butter but instead with a benign and flavorless olive oil we ate the first basket over the course of the 45 minute wait for our appetizers and requested a second to go with our mains – unfortunately we were told they were “out” of the garlic poppyseed and we were instead brought 4 of the butter rolls – three of which went untouched.

Prior to the arrival of our appetizers I excused myself from the table with the excuse of the restroom and browsed the 1894 home at length. Given its location in a relatively run-down part of the city I was quite impressed by how well kept the home was, how all of the tables were kept ready and waiting for guests (even though the restaurant was less than 1/4 filled,) and how out-of-place the whole scene was in downtown Detroit. Making my way back to the table only moments before our appetizers arrived I was glad to have browsed around, it is certainly a Detroit landmark worthy of being seen.

For our first course my friend received the Crab Cake which was served along with wantons similar to a Crab Rangoon. Overall he said he liked the dish, but that he’d had better. For myself the choice was the Duck Confit and Cherry Fritter served with Spinach, Caramelized Onions, and Goat Cheese Vinaigrette. Unlike any other Duck I’ve previously experienced this dish reminded me very much of a hush-puppy with a hint of duck. Tasting the cherries more prominently than the bird the overall texture of the dish was rather doughy while the accompaniments were mostly overwhelmed by the sweet and pungent onions.

Appetizers complete and both of us largely underwhelmed it was only a short ten minutes before our main courses arrived – for my friend an excessively priced Filet Mignon, cooked medium rare, that he stated he could have done better on the grill at home. For myself I opted against the chicken (my first choice) due to my love of gnocchi – a big mistake to say the very least. Adequate in portion the dish was presented attractively – gnocchi large and plump, sliced tomatoes aplenty, and a thin sauce mingling with the onions and spinach. Taking my first bite I was pleasantly surprised by the smooth manner in which the dumplings melted in my mouth – but after the initial texture there was nothing….and I mean nothing. I realize early spring isn’t the best time of the year for vegetables in Ohio, but for a sauced dish to receive the majority of its flavor from Ricotta is hard to believe. Bland onions (you’d think they would be the same as those with the duck, but that was not the case at all,) wimpy tomatoes, and a sauce that lacked nuance or flavor even with the addition of multiple shakes from the salt shaker. I don’t know why I didn’t send it back – I should have, it was really that bad.

Thoroughly annoyed with the food but enjoying seeing my friend for the first time since Vegas in September I decided to give The Whitney a chance for dessert – browsing the menu I saw my friend’s eyes light up at the Lava Cake (which we were told would take 20-30 minutes to prepare) while I was instantly drawn to the White Chocolate Cherry Bread Pudding with Butterscotch and House Made Vanilla Ice Cream (or at least that is how it was described.) Ordering a coffee while we waited my buddy elected for another glass of wine – I hope his wine was better than the coffee, a bitter and acidic blend that did not take well to sweetener but livened up a little bit with cream (something I never use.)

When our desserts did arrive I was happy for my friend – he loved the lava cake and deemed it “well worth the wait.” My dessert, on the other hand, did not fare as well. Topped with what I can only assume were canned pears poached in a strong port the bread pudding itself was dry – it was also luke-warm. Tasting nothing like cherry and only slightly of white chocolate the pudding was poor but I will admit the ice cream was delectable, especially when paired with the creamy caramel/butterscotch sauce…perhaps a cup of the sauce would have helped the dish as a whole.

When it was all said and done our bill was about what one would expect at a mid-to-high end restaurant in Detroit while the food and service fell far short….far short even before our sever suggested we “need to settle the tab now because I have to go get my kid from the babysitter”….at 8:45. Paying and hanging around to finish our drinks (and conversation) we made our way to the door around 9:00pm and waited while the valet ran through the worsening rain to collect our cars. Bidding farewell to my friend we promised to get together again before the move – but most certainly not at The Whitney.

Avalon International Breads, Detroit MI and Just Baked, Troy MI

…I’d left Slow’s with plans for dessert before heading north to shop at Somerset – I had dinner plans with an old friend for later in the evening but plenty of time for something sweet. Driving through the apartments abutting Wayne State’s Medical Campus I was struck by the number of homeless persons – I’d heard things were bad in Mo-town but hadn’t been in town since the recession hit. Parking close to my destination, Avalon International Breads, I was greeted almost immediately by a thin woman with a thick accent requesting change and by the time I made it to the door I had another woman requesting “anything I could spare for her class trip.”

Entering the small artisan bakery the scenery changed drastically – while the disadvantaged stood outside in the rain, the inside of Avalon was warm and full of well dressed folks with laptops drinking coffee, eating pastries, conversing, and reading books. With minimal standing-room between the counter and the door (largely due to the enormous open kitchen full of bakers preparing any number of delicacies) I integrated myself into the line and browsed the goods – breads, cookies, cakes, bars, pies, tarts, pastries – all formulated with Avalon’s philosophy of “right relationship with the earth; right relationship with the employees; and, right relationship with the community.”

Greeted by a friendly young lady who had just finished answering an almost unimaginable number of questions for a short elderly woman (mostly questions about the Focaccia sandwiches and soups – she apparently just couldn’t understand the concept of a 1/2 and 1/2 combo) I asked a single question of my own regarding the different sticky buns and settled on two pastries before paying and making my way to the door – there was simply no seating to be had inside.

Avoiding the requests for financial assistance and settling into my car I first decided to sample the Sticky Bun – the Pecan version came strongly recommended by the clerk. Somewhat more crispy and flaky than the standard sticky bun the overall feeling of this honey laced bun was actually more akin to Baklava than a traditional sticky bun. Light and not “doughy” at all I must say the roll wasn’t exactly what I expected, but it was certainly tasty – and at a mere $2.50 quite the bargain given its substantial size.

My second selection – well, it too wasn’t exactly what I expected – it was simply stunning. Ordering a “Date-Bar” largely because I love dates and it looked rustic yet tasty I expected it to be good – I did not expect it to be one of the best things I’ve eaten so far in 2010. Featuring a buttery pie-style crust topped with a textural puree of cinnamon and nutmeg accented dates and then topped with house-made honey granola the simple $2 bar featured a wonderful interplay of smooth and crunchy, buttery and sweet, sugar and spice that wowed the taste buds.

All said I only spent $5 at Avalon but if I lived closer I’ve no doubt it would become my go-to for all things pastry. While I can’t say I fancy the neighborhood and loitering you can’t really blame the establishment for that and their food, business model, and practices are all quite enviable.

Following my trip to Avalon I next headed north on I-75 to Somerset Mall – certainly no disadvantaged persons to be found there…as a matter of fact, it is one of the few places in the Midwest where I feel poor. Looking specifically for a new watch band at Tourneau I ended up spending nearly 4 hours shopping in the mall and on my way to the food court for water I noted a new Bake Shop entitled “Just Baked” featuring free samples. Browsing the selection and chatting with the pleasant young server I was told I could sample whatever I like – Chocolate, Banana, or Cherry Chip - so I tried all three. Featuring a soft cake base and creamy buttercream frosting I very much liked the Cherry Chip and Banana but didn’t really enjoy the Chocolate as it was rather bland and the cake too dense.

Finding out that the small shop was part of a growing chain – this being their fifth store and having opened only 3 days prior – I decided to sample a couple of cakes. Browsing their impressive selection (20+ options to be sure) I settled on the standard, a red velvet, and something new – Banana Split. Tasting the Red Velvet first I was duly impressed by the moist and flavorful cocoa accented cake but less impressed with the cream cheese frosting which was appropriately tangy but far too thick and heavy for the soft and delicate cake.

Moving on to the Banana Split I have to admit I was impressed – described excellently by the server the cake featured a vanilla wafer “crust” topped (in order) with fresh banana cake, milk chocolate, strawberry, pineapple, and finally graham cracker crumbs. Topped finally with a maraschino cherry the total effect of each bite was very much like the real thing, minus the coldness of the ice cream. Well thought out and excellently constructed the Banana Split was one of the better thought out cupcakes I’ve had recently and it alone would justify a return visit to taste options such as Sweet Potato Pie, Tiramisu, and the Fruit Cobbler Cupcakes.

Slow's Bar-B-Q, Detroit MI

Okay – I’ll admit it, I’m not the person best qualified to judge barbeque food; I rarely eat it and my experience with barbeque outside of things we made on the grill at home is limited to a few specific occasions – few of which are memorable for good reasons. With that said, I do like to think I know something about dining out, good food, great service, and a nice setting – all of which I was told I’d find at Slow’s, a relatively new school bar-b-q (est. 2005) joint largely removed from the downtown business sector of Detroit. Arriving at the Corktown establishment in the midst of a torrential downpour shortly after opening to find the restaurant absolutely packed I luckily nabbed a table in the main dining room near a window where I’d sit and be amused by myriad patrons running from their car to pick up an innumerable number of takeout orders - obviously others had heard the good word about Slows, as well.

Greeted promptly by a friendly young man named Jarvis who appeared to be working the whole main room I asked a couple of questions (specifically whether a substitution on the Big Three – Catfish instead of Brisket) and placed my order. A moment or two passed while my server made sure the substitution could be allowed (a $2 surcharge) and my water was filled – it remained filled and I was checked in on frequently both before and after my food arrived. Sitting back and listening to the overhead speakers as they poured forth jazz and blues ranging from Robert Johnston to Charlie Parker to BB King I have to say I loved the vibe of Slows and the table spacing was more than adequate to prevent feeling crowded or hearing all but the loudest of speakers (thankfully “that guy” was seated across the room near the bathrooms.)

Approximately 20 minutes passed before my meal arrived – and what a meal it was. Beginning with the sides – 2 were included with the entrée and the third ordered because I couldn’t settle on just two – my first taste at Slow’s was their much celebrated Macaroni and Cheese. Featuring a crunchy (and just short of burnt – in a good way) cheddar crust and shell noodles that were much akin to dumplings in texture I must say that the dish lived up to the hype – while not “gourmet” by any means, the manner in which the creamy yet sharp cheddar was brought to a peak by hefty notes of black pepper and paprika was fantastic.

My second side, the cornbread, was the only “miss” at Slow’s – and a pretty substantial miss, unfortunately. Dry, flavorless, and even with the packet-butter the cornbread was grainy at best. Using the cornbread largely to soak up the juices from the proteins on my plate and to taste the various barbeque sauces I will admit it was slightly better with added hydration, but certainly not good enough to warrant the $2.25 pricetag for such a meager slice.

The final side dish was my personal favorite of the three – the sweet potato mash. Featuring heavy notes of cinnamon, maple, butter, and cream the potatoes had a pleasant heterogeneous quality indicating hand mashing and they worked great on their own – but even moreso with the proteins.

Moving on to the main course my first taste was Slow’s interpretation of Carolina Style Pulled Pork. Featuring Neiman Ranch Pork butt, slow cooked until falling off the bone, and a multitude of spices I won’t even attempt to venture a guess at I have to say the meat was much less fatty than I anticipated – it was also much less “wet” than pulled pork I’ve tasted in the past – both of which were very agreeable to the palate. Tasting the pork on its own I loved the manner in which the smoky tones accented the savory meat and these flavors were only heightened by the addition of the multiple sauces, my favorite of which was certainly the apple as it tasted like the very essence of green apple, hickory, and cinnamon – sweet, but not overpowering, and perfect with the pork.

Moving on to the chicken, another slow smoked option but featuring a clearly different blend – more savory and less spicy – than the pork, my first bite was a revelation in that this was some of the best non-fried skinless chicken I’ve ever tasted. Moist and tender, meaty without being chewy, and although lacking the textural contrast of the crispy skin featuring a through-and-through juiciness that was plenty succulent without the addition of any sauce at all. While I personally would have loved a bit more contrast, it is hard to argue that something done so well could be done better.

My final taste of the meal was the Alabama Farm Raised Catfish in Cornmeal tempura with creole remoulade and aside from the remoulade (which tasted like fire mixed with vinegar) this dish was another beauty. Clean and flavorful the mild catfish was complimented nicely by the hefty sweetened cornmeal crust forming what can best be described as a haute-fishstick. Wonderful on its own I found that the fish paired very nicely with the “spicy” sauce, the thicker of the various sauces at Slow’s, featuring mild “heat” but more-so notes of cumin, paprika, and cayenne.

Upon wiping my plate clean with the rest of my cornbread Jarvis stopped by yet again to check up on me and ask if I’d like dessert or anything else. Already with plans for a dessert stop I declined, mostly because the options on Slow’s online menu didn’t seem all that appealing and the only item I saw delivered to a table, presumably the Chuck Norris, was entirely too big for one person after so much food. Settling the tab I was bid farewell by no less than four servers and upon making my way to the street a quick jog across Michigan Avenue led me to my car (free parking aplenty in Corktown.) At $29 (tax and a good tip included) Slow’s certainly isn’t bargain basement barbeque – but then again, with high quality preparations and names like Neiman Ranch on the menu you shouldn’t expect bargain basement bar-b-q – Slow’s is a whole lot better than that.