Matsuhisa, Los Angeles CA

Dining with two who prefer their seafood cooked but wanting to have some high quality sushi during our most recent trip to LA there were a number of choices, but in the end I went with the most “LA” of the group. Considered by many to be the birthplace of Japanese fusion in the United States and having spawned greater than twenty “Nobu” restaurants around the world we were admittedly familiar with the branding of chef Matsuhisa when we arrived – even if a meal at Nobu New York seemed like a lifetime ago in May 2007. Having been only mildly impressed with what Nobu New York had to offer for the price I felt obligated to return with a more refined palate and more open mind.

Pulling up to the small space just moments after our 12:30 reservation we were once again greeted by a friendly valet - $6 if I recall correctly. With the weather sunny and clear we made our way to the small door where we entered to find ourselves nearly face to face with the hostess. Greeted pleasantly she noted our reservation and my request for a space close to the sushi bar without being at the sushi bar (aunt was afraid it would smell “fishy.”) Dressed in my Kings jersey I hadn’t even found my seat when I was greeted with “Go Kings Go” from a sushi chef who later introduced himself as Kiri-san as we chatted about the Kings recent offensive struggles. While I’ll note that talking to Kiri was one of the highlights of my meal, another was standing directly next to him – Nobuyuki Matsuhisa himself working the sushi bar.

Seated with water filled in a mere moments we were next handed menus – both the standard Matsuhisa menu and the daily specials of fresh fish and prepared items (replicated on a whiteboard near the window.) Browsing the options in addition to the scene – many regulars, a table of guys in suits talking music, and even a pair working on a script – as light Asian pop played overhead the restaurant definitely has an traditional feel to it with all the blonde woods and traditional lighting, but at the same time there is something entirely “swanky” with the spot lighting and energy of the room.

With an entirely Japanese workforce staffing the restaurant on this particular afternoon and the room nearly full I will note that this was one of the louder sushi spots I have been in, but at the same time the service was refined and all specials were explained at length, fishes described in great detail, and plates delivered and removed rapidly on completion. With Matsuhisa mostly working the sushi bar but occasionally coming out to greet diners (and to chat with me about Dustin Brown, the Kings captain) I’m sure the top notch service was in part due to his presence…or perhaps his presence was due to the fact that they knew a certain celebrity would be stopping in at the end of the lunch hour…y’know, that Raging Bull guy.

Orders placed the first items to arrive would be the house miso soup. A rather traditional presentation of the soup and filled with medium-firm tofu with scallions and saline broth I quite liked the simple presentation, especially as it was included as part of the lunch orders.

With Nobu himself slicing fish and teaching one of the younger sushi-san behind the counter we sat and talking for perhaps fifteen minutes before our main courses would arrive – and of course we checked out the interesting restroom, and myriad posters signed by various celebrities as well. When orders arrived, complete with instructions on what should and should not be consumed with soy sauce, we all chuckled as we realized my aunt would have to maneuver chopsticks…even if her order of Tempura and Chicken with Teriyaki should have been simple to handle. Featuring an orange imbued chicken teriyaki, salad with walnut vinaigrette, and lovely lightly battered shrimp, zucchini, onions, and pumpkin the dish was tasty and ample in portion – and provided plenty of entertainment to us which ended when a diligent server arrived with a fork (she’d refused to ask, but clearly it was too painful for him to watch.)

For my mother’s selection the decision would be her Japanese restaurant “go to” of Rock Shrimp Tempura with Ponzu. Lacking the creamy sauce that often overwhelms this dish at other spots this was perhaps the best Ponzu shrimp I’ve ever tasted with the creamy citrus flavors actually melded with the tempura batter. Light and succulent, tender and sweet, ample in portion and balanced with just a slight bit of chopped scallion – it’s not what I’d order at a sushi restaurant, but I was glad to have experienced it.

For my sister the decision was Matsuhisa’s Combination Sushi – a collection of eight standard fish nigiri plus a cut tuna roll. At $28 the plating included Shrimp, Egg, Squid, Salmon, Tai, Tuna, Egg, Saba and the Tuna Roll. As I mentioned earlier, sushi in Ohio is nothing special and my sister has been known to enjoy that at Whole Foods quite well, but she mentioned that everything was quite good.

For my lunch I opted for the “Special Sushi” featuring eleven of the daily fresh catch and inclusive of dessert for $50. Starring cuts of Medium Toro, Nishin, Jumbo Clam, Bonito, Shrimp with Eggs, Amberjack, Sea Eel, Kohada, Kinmedai, King Salmon, Japanese Giant Squid, and Egg the only flavor which I’d never experienced before was the Nishin – apparently a form of Herring that was quite fatty and potent, but tender and mellowed by a brushing of Yuzu. Considering a slice of Kinmedai was listed on the menu at $9 while the medium Toro (probably the best slice of fish I’ve ever eaten) was marked at $7.50 the value of this lunch was notable and the Giant Squid, Jumbo Clam, and Amberjack were all exemplary.

With dessert already included on my tab – a selection of daily ice cream or sorbet – the others decided to peruse the dessert menu and with little hesitation decisions were made. For my included dessert the choice was Honey Sorbet with fresh fruit, a creamy fructose laden tennis-ball-sized scoop paired with better fruit than we’ll see for the next 5 months in Ohio. Never one to just order ice cream for dessert I will note that this was one of the tastiest ice creams I’ve had in some time and the mouth feel was smooth as silk.

Knowing ice cream was not going to be fancy enough I also decided to taste Matushisa’s Mochi – Red Bean and Coffee flavors, also paired with fruit. Mild and sweet, a bit sticky but not at all gummy the mochi skins were excellent while the ice cream within was mild and creamy. Had I known my sister’s dessert was to come with coffee ice cream I’d have likely ordered something different, but I’m actually glad I didn’t because the flavor was that of sweetened black coffee and a lovely last taste for the meal.

For my sister’s dessert she would defy her dislike for green tea and embrace her love for Tiramisu in the form of Nobu’s famous Green Tea Tiramisu. Certainly not your traditional Italian style this slightly bitter cake was full of matcha flavor counterbalanced with what I can only assume was Cointreau given the boozy orange top notes. Creamy with mascarpone and nicely presented the dish was decidedly heavy – like most tiramisu – but at the same time smooth and airy. Paired with coffee ice cream, clearly a nod to the original, there may have been a bit of bitter on this plate but the sweet certainly wasn’t overshadowed.

The best dessert of the afternoon would belong to my mother - Banana cake with banana sorbet, caramel, and butter cream icing. A large round somewhere between bread pudding and angel food cake the texture of the cake was light and moist while the baked in caramelized bananas provided pockets of explosive sweetness. Topped with banana sauce, sticky caramel, and a spread of buttery icing before a large ball of banana ice cream (complete with chunks of frozen banana) was dropped atop the flavors were all familiar and although the least innovative, it was simply the most tasty.

The final dessert, my aunt’s choice, was a daily special - Gianduja Chocolate Fondue with Marshmallows, Ginger Cake, Fresh Fruit, Matcha Gelee, and Wafers. Featuring one of my favorite maker’s 62% dark chocolate melted atop a candle there was really no way this dessert could fail and it most certainly did not. With each fruit fresh and sweet and the marshmallows, cake, and wafers all prepared in house I have to say the Matcha Gelees did not appeal to my aunt, but I thought the bitter/bitter of dark chocolate atop matcha was really quite excellent.

With the bill settled I chatted a bit more with Kiri-san before we settled the bill and stood up from our seats. With Matsuhisa wishing us a farewell and a “go Kings” we made our way to collect the car from the valet…the valet who pull up with our rental Hyundai only moments before he would park the Mercedes of a living legend.

…sure we saw Robert DeNiro drive up in his Mercedes. Sure Nobuyuki Matsuhisa himself was cutting fish and plated a number of my sushi selections. Sure better fish can likely be found at a lower price in the Los Angeles area. Sure we couldn’t have been guaranteed some of the things we saw or tasted on the afternoon of December 23rd, but the fame and potential of such things were enough to prompt our Matsuhisa Beverly Hills reservations. In the end the simple fact is we don’t have good sushi, revolutionary sushi chefs, or celebrities (let alone perhaps the greatest actor of all time) in Ohio – and honestly, I would have been more than happy to settle for “great” as opposed to “killed on premises amazing” sushi at Matsuhisa even without the star gazing because the food and service were excellent – but I’m not going to lie, seeing Nobu and DeNiro was pretty cool.

The Griddle Cafe [4] and Schulzie's Bread Pudding, Los Angeles/Santa Monica CA

Time to revive a classic – and steal an intro from myself…”When I travel I make it a point to eat at different places every single time. I scour Zagats, Gayot, Frommers, Chowhound, and Yelp for opinions and eventually glean my list down to a few great choices for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks - I am rarely disappointed, despite never going back to the same place twice. Never, that is, aside from places that are simply too amazing, affordable, or unique to pass up. For me, Hollywood's Griddle Cafe is one of those places. No glitz, no glam - just amazing food in a super casual setting with some of the most down to earth and friendly servers out there....and let’s not forget the great prices, absurd selections, and portions!”

My fourth trip to LA in four years once again brought me to The Griddle during the day of my annual pilgrimage to Staples Center for a Kings game and once again by arriving early we were met with a minimal wait…as a matter of fact, given the crummy weather and early hours this was the first time we arrived at The Griddle Café to find half the restaurant empty – no worries though, by the time we left there was a line. Greeted promptly by our server, a somewhat curt but efficient fellow named Sergio we were given menus and drink orders were taken – water all around, tea for two, and that lovely French Press for mother and I. Browsing the menu while listening to cheesy 80s music overhead I commented that this was the first time I could hear the sounds of the kitchen – again this didn’t last as the place filled up.

Browsing the menu and seeing options both old and new our decisions were easier than usual as we all wanted to try new things. As a new twist, Sergio actually inquired as to whether the persons ordering pancakes wanted one, two, or three – essentially a two dollars off per pancakes short of a full stack. With orders placed service would be swift with coffee and tea being refilled before they were even empty (resulting in two tea pots and two French presses on the large table at once;) busy or half full the service at The Griddle has never been anything less than impressive. Waiting a mere fifteen minutes while chatting and watching Sportscenter it would be no time before our desserts – er, breakfasts – would arrive.

Ordered by my sister and far better than its humble origins would suggest, a stack of two BLUESberry pancakes would arrive fluffy and light, jam packed with fresh blueberries and topped with a puree of blueberry juice and sour cream. Fearing the sour cream would be too tart I was duly impressed by the manner in which the powdered sugar and juice tempered the creamy sour cream and even my sister, a maple syrup fanatic, took it easy with the syrup on this dish allowing its natural flavors to shine.

For my mother, another fruited option – Barry Yellow. Similar in texture to the fluffy yet filling Blueberry option, this selection was loaded with pureed raspberries (complete with seeds) and lemon juice. Topped with merely butter and powdered sugar the buttermilk cakes were slightly more dry than I would have preferred, but with the pockets of jammy raspberry breaking up the dough the key was making sure to get both pancake and raspberry in each bite – then it was quite excellent.

My selection would be a result of my aunt choosing the newest menu option – the “Red Velvet” panCAKE, the dish I’d originally targeted. A single cake, both in title and in texture, this monstrous cake was mildly sweet, bright red, and loaded with subtle cocoa tones. Topped with a thick swirl of cream cheese icing with a slight acidity suggesting a nondescript citrus the cake was quite good, though not as successful as the version at Larchmont Bungalow. Dense and heavy compared to the standard pancakes a single cake was definitely enough for one, or to share.

Having already tried nearly all the pancake options on our multiple trips my selection would once again come from the French Toast section of the menu – this time Crème de la Crème with Griddle Café’s signature egg dipped Griddle Bread subsequently dipped in Graham Cracker crumbs before frying and subsequently loaded with slightly unsettled cheesecake and more graham cracker crumbles. Three thick slices, perfectly custardized inside and golden and buttery on the exterior I found the cheesecake topping particularly pleasant in its mildness. Adding only a drizzle of The Griddle Café’s pure maple syrup was a good, albeit unnecessary, decision as it worked quite nicely with the graham crackers and cream cheese both.

Honestly, there isn’t much more I can say about the Griddle than what has been stated in my previous three visits – the fact that I keep going back, from Ohio, says all you need to know. Obviously I cannot comment on the savories, but if you like sweet breakfasts this is the place for you and will continue to be a place for me on Kings game days (which would clearly be a health hazard if I lived locally.)

Continuing my traditional trajectory on leaving The Griddle it was time for some walking – this time the Hollywood Walk of Fame, then some driving around Beverly Hills, and finally a trip to Venice Beach to stare at the Ocean. Of course given my gluttonous nature the trip wasn’t without a food agenda – I’d heard rumor that there was a Bread Pudding themed restaurant right on the beach – Schulzie’s Bread Pudding – and that they served Blue Bottle Coffee. My favorite dessert style and my favorite coffee producer seemed like a can’t miss.

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Having walked up and down the beach for an hour or so in the only sunny weather of our trip the tiny shop was easy to find – tucked in next to a Middle Eastern place called Sabba and close to an empty Muscle Beach. With no bread pudding in site on arrival I asked the young man what time they started serving and he said “whenever ya like” – little did I know the Bread Pudding was pre-made in a tiny refrigerator. With eight total options including Brilliant Blackberry, Celestial Chocolate Chunk, Luba’s Peach Cobbler, and Biggie’s Figgie Pudding I opted for the Fig and Almond option, served with an ice cream scoop and drizzled with a balsamic sauce along with a drip brew cup of Single Origin African Dark roast. Paying the surprisingly modest tab of $5 I made my way back to the family to share.

While I will note that the coffee was superb – as good as all my previous Blue Bottle experiences had etched in my mind, the bread pudding was rather boring. Perhaps due to the storage, perhaps due to the temperature, perhaps due to the ingredients – everything about it was just sort of bland – without the small chunks of fig and balsamic reduction the bread itself was almost flavorless. Sharing around everyone agreed – homogenous and sub-par, especially from a place claiming it as a specialty. Disappointing for sure I’d perhaps consider a repeat visit for other flavors if I lived locally, but I’d not waste the stomach space or calories as a tourist when Los Angeles has so many wonderful bakeries.

Bistro LQ, Los Angeles CA

Although not catering to the glamorous stars of Hollywood and not helmed by a celebrity chef I’d heard from a number of trusted sources that wonderful things were happening at 8009 Beverly Boulevard – the site of Bistro LQ. Living across the country I’ll admit I’d not heard of Chef Laurent Quenioux prior to 2009 when a friend suggested I should visit his Bistro on my next trip out west, but a quick search gave me all the information I needed – born and raised in France with an affinity for game, cheese, and heavy meats, trained in Michelin starred kitchens and alongside current mega-restaurateurs Splichal and Vongerichten, plus an uncanny knack for pairing unlikely ingredients into wonderful tastes and sensations – and all of that housed in a rather low key setting with a menu that doesn’t break the bank. Making reservations for four happened without a second thought – as a matter of fact it was the first reservation I made for our trip to Los Angeles.

Arriving at the small bistro and easily finding metered parking only yards away we made our way through the doors and were all immediately taken at how small the space was – you can quite literally see the entire dining room all the way back to the kitchen from the front door. While light tunes played overhead and the room was relatively quiet we next realized that despite the small size they were also apparently only seating in one half of the room – an odd choice that was never really explained. Greeted by a pleasant gentleman who noted our reservations we were led (with notes to watch a “lump” in the floor) to a cozy four-top along the far wall.

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Seated for mere moments at the white tableclothed spot we were soon greeted by one of the two servers working the room – a young man who seemingly described everything as “beautiful” – who would fill our water and present our menus. Decorated minimalistically the room was awash in subtle whites and off-whites while white and pink flowers dotted the tables – the chairs, similarly, were plain and black looking largely like something that would be seen in a typical office. Greeted next by our primary server, Jennifer, we were presented a menu and the male server returned to describe the “beautiful” tasting menu options.

With Jennifer returning after a short wait we’d made our decisions – or at least we thought we had until we were informed that three of the items we’d selected were “out of stock” (which turned out to mean they were only being served to people who ordered the tasting menu as we saw two of them arrive at the table next to us – a table with two “foodies” waxing poetic about restaurants they’d never been to and things they’d seen on the Food Network…yes, the tables were close enough that you couldn’t ignore their conversation if you tried.) Taking a moment to reorganize our plan of attack we made decisions and placed our orders. Without spending too much time discussing service issues I will note that in all reality Jennifer tried to be a good server – she simply wasn’t. Descriptions were inadequate, she could not name items on the cheese board, and worst of all despite the fact that there were less than forty people in the restaurant it took over an hour for our first courses to arrive – and when I mentioned this fact she actually had the audacity to say “it hasn’t been that long” before correcting herself with a “has it?”

Setting aside issues with the service, size, acoustics, and stylistic choices of the dining room at Bistro LQ I will move on to the food – obviously the focus of Quenioux’s talents and the reason the restaurant has gained the attention it has. The first taste of our meal would be in the form of the nightly amuse bouche – salmon and tuna tartare with seasonal citrus. A tasty bite with obviously fresh seafood mingling with micro greens and the flavors of lemon and orange, nothing revelatory, but a nice start.

Arriving shortly after our amuse would be the nightly bread basket – a hearty and crusty French bread with a good crumb paired with semi-sweet unsalted butter. As we’d be left in bread and water land for another 45 to 50 minutes while the table next to us received two entire courses from the tasting menu I was glad to have something to nibble on, though more variety would have been preferable.

Moving on to the meal itself I will note that one of my favorite aspects of the Bistro LQ menu is the ability to order 1/2 portions of many of the dishes in order to formulate one’s own tasting menu. Taking full advantage of this option the first bites of our meal were a full order of perhaps the restaurant’s most well known dish – “Uni” with Sea Urchin Tapioca Pudding, Yuzu Kosho, and Kumamoto oysters in Lobster gelee. An astoundingly textural dish and perhaps the most unique presentation of urchin outside of that at Joel Robuchon this dish balanced the naturally sweet and unctuous urchin with creamy and smooth tapioca pearls in one dish while the shot glass contained a “gelee” with a texture more akin to jello that tasted precisely like lobster coral. With the gelee resting atop an intense and briny oyster and tempered by the spicy citrus of the yuzukosho the entirety of this dish could best be described as somehow separating the sweetest and most savory aspects of the ocean and serving them on a single plate.

Course two was another successful choice – Foie Gras 2 ways. Placing two cold preparations on the same plate for a mere $17 my first thought was “wow, that is a lot of foie.” With the first preparation a traditional Torchon Style laced with Huckelberries with Violet and resting atop Corn Bread and the second a Terrine Style with Cold Vin Chaud, Cardamom Orange Brioche, and a Quince Marshmallow I found the Torchon superb while the Terrine was merely good. Supple and nicely cleaned both preparations were faultless in their quality – the Terrine simply lacked anything special and neither the brioche or marshmallow really tasted like their title indicated. The cornbread, I will note, was almost a cornbread pudding and it was fantastic.

Fairing less admirably than the 2-way dish would be the Foie Gras Tostada - Seared Foie, Candied Heirloom Tomatoes Salsa, Pomegranate Molasses. Another ample portion, the biggest issue with this dish was its serving temperature of luke warm. Finding a single vein on dissection the foie was characteristically unctuous but the acidic salsa and sweet molasses actually overtook the liver’s place as the predominant flavors on the plate – the balance was simply off. As this was the only warm dish to arrive during our first round of plates I do wonder if some of the issue was that it waited in the kitchen while the other dishes were composed, but even searing hot I feel I’d have been underwhelmed.

The other final option arriving during our first round of plates would be a soup – a half-order each for mom and aunt. Crab - Corn and Cheddar Soup, Poblano Chile, Bacon Powder was poured tableside with the lovely air spreading over the table as it was poured. With the bacon powder served on the spoon and instructed to be stirred in I will note that prior to mixing I tasted the crab solo and it was lovely – sweet and fresh Dungeness dusted with chili powder in an ample amount. As good as the crab was solo, however, the admixture of soup, crab, and powder really brought the dish to life. Sweet, savory, a bit of spice and the texture almost like a fondue, but the flavors of the crab still peaking through in each bite.

With burrata apparently all the rage in Southern California currently I figured we would see it on the menu at Bistro LQ and although it wasn’t featured, it was a lovely side on the first dish of round two. Presented as “Lobster Salad - Corn Cannoli, Red Beet, Burrata Sorbet” this troika of flavors was fun and tasty. Ordered as a half-portion (again by mother and aunt) the lobster component was a half-mit and half-tail of warm butter poached lobster – no more, no less. Accompanying the crustacean would be a curl of house made corn tortilla filled with succulent corn cream and three jewels of earthy beats topped with creamy, rich, and mildly sweet “Burrata Sorbet” that tasted precisely like the famous cheese, but less dense in texture.

For my sister’s second course, her favorite of the meal, the choice was “Black Bass – Lentil, Cippolini, Morcella, Smoked Duck Wing, Pequillo.” Well aware that she had no idea what Morcella was when she ordered the dish I was shocked when she took a bite of the Portuguese blood sausage and said “this is really good – but I don’t know what it is” and impressed when the information didn’t seem to faze her…then again, it was really stellar blood sausage. Not to be outdone, the nicely seared black bass and smoky fried duck wing were also excellent while the toothsome lentils, pungent onions, and mild peppers lent a additional complexity to the otherwise hefty proteins. This dish was the exact sort of dish I’d expected entering Bistro LQ and the subsequent dishes would continue the trend.

For my second course, reportedly a “half” portion, I received Duck 2 Ways, a dish consisting of a whole seared duck breast and a full confit leg resting atop pickled cabbage, pickled huckleberries, and a flat pastry-like Huckleberry Muffin. With the duck prepared expertly and the bursting huckleberries balancing nicely with the savory cabbage I think my favorite aspect of this dish was pairing bites of the duck’s crunchy skin with the huckleberry and duck fat saturated muffin. At $17 this “half” portion would have been a $30+ main course at many restaurants elsewhere.

Having obviously noted my displeasure with the early delay in the meal our next round of dishes would arrive perhaps a little too quickly – literally 2-3 minutes after we finished round two. With my aunt’s desired main course of beef being one of the sold out items she instead opted for the Veal Rack at Jennifer’s suggestion. Featuring a Veal Medallion, Basil Gnocchi Gratin, Fava Beans, and Eggplant Fondue this was the one main course I did not taste, but my aunt felt the veal was “too fatty” and left much of it on the plate. The portion I tasted, the basil gnocchi mixed with exquisitely prepared Fava Beans and creamy mozzarella and topped with crispy veal bacon was quite tasty, though the gnocchi was a tad mushy.

For my mother, Pork - Braised with Chocolate, Achiote, Epasote and Honey Semolina Cake was a masterpiece and clearly showed off the fact that Chef Quenioux knows more than just French fare. While the pork itself was nicely prepared, it largely just served as a mechanism to show off the topping - somewhere between a mole and savory pork gravy with obvious Hispanic influences the complexities of the sauce reminded me of something from a Bayless kitchen – smoky, savory, spicy, and robust. Seated alongside a hollowed green tomato whose insides had been rendered into a sort of ratatouille and matched with two fried sticks of sweet semolina cake this “half” dish was simply a mountain of flavor.

Selecting a half order one of the night’s specials, my sister received Hare Saddle – Cock’s Comb, Potato, Fava Beans, Garlic Puree. Nicely prepared and expectedly grassy in flavor the hare itself was nicely textured and lean while the pan jus and garlic puree were nice additions. Topping the hare with a cartilaginous comb that had been poached in sweet vinegar my sister was not a fan, but I gladly helped her out. Rounding out the dish with a tumbleweed of crunchy fried potato and thinly sliced fava beans plus almond powder was a nice touch.

The final main course of the evening was another of the nightly wild game specials - Wild Boar with Chestnut Tagliatelle, and Balsamic Blueberries. Perhaps the most simplistic presentation of the evening the portion size was once again quite ample for the $17 price tag and the flavor was that of pork meets lamb – somewhat tough in texture but easily cut, heavy but lacking “chewiness” – a nice first experience with wild boar. With the hand cut pasta somewhat softer than I’d have preferred the taste was quite nice and the balsamic soaked blueberries were literally bursting with flavor.

Skipping coffee as the nightly options were all citrus blends we were next offered cheese or dessert. Having seen the ample cheese carte. Featuring 43 options on this evening I couldn’t pass up such an option for a mere $10 charge. With the board so large I will note that if you desire to see the selections you have to leave the table (mind the “hump”) and most annoyingly despite me getting up to hear the selections Jennifer could only delineate cow vs. goat vs. sheep and a couple easy specifics such as Epoisse and Brie. Deciding to give up asking after the third “I don’t know” I simply asked her to prepare a plate and so she did.

Served with the ten 1+ ounce servings of cheese would be one of the more impressive trays of accoutrements I have seen and included Hazelnuts, Roasted Cumin Seeds, Apple Gelee, Huckleberry Gelee, Bell pepper Mustard, Tomatillo Compote, Truffle honey, Homemade Green Ketchup, and crispy petit pain. A good mix I know the selection included epoisse, brie, pecorino, Roquefort, and a lovely ash-bound sheep’s cheese but as good as the cheeses were I think the restaurant would be best served to have them presented by someone who could identify them. Then again, perhaps I was spoiled after Robuchon and Melisse on previous nights.

Opting next for desserts, normally under the direction of Pastry Chef Anthony Huynh but on that night the responsibility of Quenioux and the pastry sous-chef, we each selected differently and shared as always. Starting first with the Funnel Cake – Mixed Berries Sauce, Pop Corn Sorbet, Salted Caramel, Peanut Brittle I have to say I appreciated the whimsy. Crispy and light just like the carnival favorite the funnel cake was lovely while the sorbet truly did taste like hot buttered popcorn – at least until mixed with the brittle and caramel at which point it tasted like caramel corn. Clever.

My dessert option, unfortunately arriving last along with the mignardises because it was the only one that required on the spot preparation, was described as Steamed Persimmon Pudding with Sweet Potato Sorbet and Coffee Crème Anglaise. Somewherebetween a bread pudding and a sticky pudding the chunks of sweet bread were on their own delightful while the coffee cream added a nice degree of bitterness to the otherwise saccharine flavor profile. While I’ll note the ice cream was quite tasty I personally believe I was served the wrong option as it tasted a potent vanilla or marshmallow and was far more creamy than sorbet should be.

For my aunt, the most successful dessert – another Pot de Crème presentation, this time Espresso & Chocolate, and served alongside Butterscotch Tapioca Bread Pudding, and White Chocolate Ice Cream Affogato. With hot, warm, and cold all on the same plate and two coffee themed options I rather wondered how my aunt would enjoy this dish, but in reality the affogato was overwhelmingly smooth and chocolately and the Pot de Crème so dark a chocolate that the espresso was only a bitter note on the palate afterwards. The highlight of this dish would be the Butterscotch Tapioca bread pudding – creamy, salty, hefty yet with textural pockets throughout…who’d have thought to put tapioca in a bread pudding? I guess the same guy who balanced it with Uni so nicely earlier.

Another spot of whimsy would be found in mom’s selection of the “Candy Bar Plate.” Featuring most prominently a thick Peanut butter Cup Tart the size and density of a hockey puck, a Kit-Kat Parfait loaded with chocolate, wafer, and cream, and Snickers Ice Cream complete with nougat and served atop crumbled peanuts with swirls of chocolate there was nothing complicated about the dish – it was just fun and tasty.

The final tastes of Bistro LQ would arrive, as mentioned, along with my dessert – a tray of petit fores and mignardises including vanilla marshmallows, raspberry gelee, Valrhona cupcakes with cream cheese frosting, and tip-top quality macarons of strawberry and coffee. Shortly after this Jennifer would return with the bill – desserts and cheese comped on the house for the long delay – a nice but unnecessary gesture given the bargain prices and portions of the food (slightly over $60/pp with tax and tip.)

Handing Jennifer my credit card I was next asked if I’d like to meet the chef – another great gesture that was actually a wonderful surprise. Short and somewhat shy I will say that of all the chefs I’ve met and spoken to, Chef Quenioux was perhaps the most down to earth aside from RJ Cooper and Roland Passot. Pleasant and readily dishing his opinion on the restaurant, the Los Angeles dining scene, and even local sports (I mentioned I was a Kings fan and he knew they were playing Edmonton the following night) I thanked him for the experience and told him the food was largely wonderful because it was. Making our way out of the restaurant, a signed menu in hand, and realizing how full I was I have to say that Bistro LQ is definitely unique and Chef Quenioux is genuinely talented, but a new front of the house will be necessary to truly push Bistro LQ into the upper echelon Quenioux is capable of cooking in.