m.henrietta, Chicago IL

Seeing as vacation was too short – as it almost invariably always is – our final day in Chicago would be restricted to only breakfast before beginning the drive back to Toledo and with my plans including a return to Columbus after dropping mother and aunt off I knew I wanted something hearty to last me through the day – a desire I had little doubt would be fulfilled by m.henrietta, the sister restaurant of one of my favorite brunches of all time. Featuring the same concept as its older sibling (local, seasonal, fresh, and organic) but reportedly with shorter lines and plenty of inexpensive/free parking just off the Loyola campus our arrival at m.henrietta would be surprisingly early despite my long morning run and just as promised we walked through the front door to find the restaurant approximately 1/2 full at 8:30am.

With the sun shining through large picture windows and the space decorated quite similarly to its North Clark sibling we were greeted shortly after entering the restaurant by a young woman who invited us to taste some samples – a blueberry poppyseed muffin and a slice of chocolate pound cake both still warm and tasty – prior to being led to our table where another young lady named Katie would take over again welcoming us and subsequently filling waters while handing us menus and taking drink orders. With mannerisms a bit rushed as it appeared she was the only server currently staffing the dining room we were invited to “take our time – and check out the bakery case” as she stepped away.

With the menu largely similar to that at m.henry yet featuring several seasonal variations it would not take us long to decide on our selections and despite the staffing issues Katie would return within moments carrying two coffees – a nutty blend by Metropolis – plus my aunt’s orange juice and when told we were ready to order she smiled stating “all the best stuff – great choices” before again returning to the front and subsequently returning less than ten minutes later with not only the first of many perfectly timed coffee refills, but also with a small order of the house-signature “amazing breakfast bread pudding” – a dish we’d experienced once prior at m.henry but this time perhaps even better with the brioche more dense and buttery, the custard sweeter, and the compliment of fruit a bit less overwhelming of the notes of cinnamon and vanilla.

Making short work of the bread pudding and with the restaurant now beginning to fill up our primary plates would arrive perhaps twenty-five minutes after we entered the restaurant and with each of us opting for sweets over savories the selections were exactly what I’d hoped for beginning first with my aunt’s selection of the daily special “Peach Blueberry French Toast,” a two-slice stack of thick cut golden brioche with a lovely exterior crunch and custard soft interior stuffed with (and subsequently topped with) warm peaches, whole blueberries, vanilla crème, brown sugar, and toasted oats that was every bit as good as the bread pudding and perhaps even better given the textural variation created by the oats.

Unable to get enough of the henry/henrietta family brioche and ever a fan of lemon in all forms my mother’s selection for the morning was another French Toast that would prove every bit as lovely as my aunt’s, but this time lacking the oats and instead described as “Lemon raspberry brioche french toast” served with two slices of dense and crispy Applewood smoked bacon. With the bread this time stacked three high and dusted in powdered sugar plus a dollop of warm house made lemon curd and sweet raspberry coulis I have to admit that although I am not a fan of lemon in general I quite liked the mildness of this presentation while my mother deemed it her favorite breakfast of the trip by far.

With the French Toast as good as our previous visit my selection for the morning would be a seasonal variation of another dish we’d tasted before – the appropriately named “bliss cakes,” this time presented as two light and fluffy hotcakes layered with warm blackberries, vanilla mascarpone cream and topped similarly to my aunt’s French Toast with a brown sugar and oat crust with the whole stack floating in a pool of sweetened blackberry reduction that negated any need for syrup but instead left me wishing for one more cake or perhaps a slice of that brioche to soak up every last drop.

With the restaurant now full (and a few more servers circulating) Katie again returned to clear our plates and asking us if there was anything else we’d like I requested a “to go” cup for my coffee along with the check – a wish that was happily granted and with the bill paid we made our way to the streets less than fifty minutes after entering m.henrietta all the happier for having visited and wishing for the umpteenth time that a place even half this good existed in Northwest or Central Ohio.

Kanela Breakfast Club, Chicago IL

When going for brunch in Chicago N. Clark St. is generally a good call – M. Henry, Over Easy, Orange, Ann Sather, Big Jones…let’s just say Lakeview and Andersonville aren’t hurting for their eggs, pancakes, and bacon – but having already been to the big names and wanting an eclectic weekday breakfast experience this visit to Chicago would bring us to a relative newcomer – the Greek offerings of Kanela Breakfast Club. Owned and operated by Chris Lardakis and featuring both name and theme inspired by his upbringing and a love of cinnamon I’ll admit I’d heard mixed reviews of both the food and service at Kanela, but in the end the menu and coffee sourcing won me over and with the early opening hour of 7:00am both the location and time matched our day’s agenda perfectly.

Arriving early with street parking plenty available we made our way to the surprisingly large café after a drive past Wrigley and given the early hour the space was empty save for two tables – one with patrons and one with Lardakis himself sitting and chatting with staff as they prepared for the day’s service. Greeted pleasantly by our server, Tara S. at the door we were asked where we’d like to sit and with a four top in the middle of the room selected we sat – two of us in sturdy wood chairs and one in the booth. With the restaurant largely modern (think exposed brick, wood, tile) yet restrained save for a couple of crystal chandeliers and a small coffee bar to the right we were next presented with menus, offered coffee, and left to make decisions while light pop music played overhead.

With a strong cup from Julius Meinl with caramel notes and a satin finish brewed quickly (and refilled consistently without need for request throughout our meal) Tara would return to take our orders and to give us her opinions on what dishes she considers must haves. Inquiring as to whether two appetizers and three entrees would be too much she informed us that it would “probably be fine” as the chef focuses more on quality than quantity – but that this would be “quite a bit of food.” With orders placed we again sat back and chatted while Lardakis returned to the kitchen and Tara took to writing the daily specials on the chalkboard.

With the restaurant largely empty it would be perhaps ten minutes before our first dishes would arrive – in this case a favorite of both my aunt and myself in the form of “monkey bread” that really wasn’t much like pull-apart monkey bread at all, but rather a dense muffin loaded with smooth pureed banana, notes of cinnamon and walnuts, and a nearly soufflé-like top with a slightly gooey crumb. Served warm it was excellent, but at $4 perhaps a bit overpriced for a muffin.

Moving next to the dish recommended strongly by our server, my mother’s favorite item of the meal was the Bougatsa. At $4 and essentially the same size/weight as the monkey bread this flat pastry featured dainty crisp phyllo encompassing what was described as “lemon-honey custard” but what instead tasted almost like meyer lemon curd given its density and subdued sweetness. Complimented with fresh strawberries and a wisp of whipped cream it truly was tasty, though getting more than a bite proved somewhat daunting as mom seemed to be guarding it with fork and knife.

With appetites primed and plates cleared as coffee was refilled once again it would be a short while before our main courses would arrive and with the ladies selecting sweets I opted instead to go savory for the second morning in a row by selecting the duck confit hash with sunny side eggs, charred scallions, and a sauce described as orange truffle vinaigrette. Served not really as “duck confit hash” but rather as duck confit + hash, the fowl itself was excellent and paired nicely with the acidic yet earthy sauce while the potatoes were buttery, loaded with herbs, and slightly smoky from the inclusion of the crispy scallions. Completing the plate with two nicely prepared eggs topped with just a drizzle of olive oil all the flavors married nicely while a side of 9-grain toast with butter and strawberry jam proved quite handy for sopping up the runny egg and vinaigrette.

Having already established my mother’s love for lemon her selection of the Kanela French Toast with apricot and sweet lemon crème fraiche came as no surprise and while I’m traditionally not a fan of citrus I personally thought this the best dish of the morning largely because the golden brioche with a pillowy custard center was so exquisitely done that it may rank amongst the best textured French Toasts of all time. While certainly never one to shy away from a breakfast too sweet, an additional surprise in the Kanela French Toast was the light accents of the accoutrements – the crème only mildly kissed with lemon and the apricot compote a smear on the plate. Surely the addition of pure maple syrup didn’t hurt, but it also wasn’t necessary to make this dish shine.

For my aunt’s selection she surprisingly selected what has seemingly become Kanela’s most highly acclaimed dish – the Bacon Waffle with Chocolate Bacon, Bourbon Caramel, and Bacon Dust – and like the French Toast it was quite impressive albeit a little bit heavy handed. Beginning first with the bacon riddled waffle, it was a nice balance of sweet and savory with the bacon largely serving as exclamation points of flavor in the golden dough. Topped with grated bacon and two strips of slightly chewy pork dipped in chocolate and resting above drizzles of salty caramel and bitter chocolate I actually think the dish may have been better off without the bacon dust if only to mellow the salinity – but then again, the chocolate did a nice job of creating a balance so perhaps simply drizzling a bit of chocolate on the waffle itself would have helped instead as the drizzle on the plate simply wasn’t enough to account for the whole waffle.

With dishes cleaned and coffee again refilled Tara asked if there was anything else we’d like and declining we were given the check followed by a quick visit from the chef to ask us how everything had been. With our compliments (and the bill) paid we made our way to the sunny streets just about one hour after our arrival and with that proceeded to our noon tour of the Rookery not full, but content and glad to see that North Clark Street’s embarrassment of Brunch riches has grown by one.

Longman & Eagle, Chicago IL

With our early time of arrival noted and my love of Chicago’s Breakfast/Brunch scene well established the first breakfast (following appetizers from Doughnut Vault) of the trip would be of the Michelin Starred Variety – the daily brunch Service at Logan Square hipster staple Longman & Eagle. Helmed by Chef Jared Wentworth and described with nearly every ubiquitous foodie buzzword from “Gastro-Pub” to “farm to table” to “nose to tail” yet continually garnering great reviews from all who’d been there I have to admit that going in I was a skeptic, but at the same time the menu looked great and by going early on a weekday I figured we could avoid the scene – a scene we almost avoided twice because despite the use of a googlemaps we still drove right past the scantily marked restaurant twice before noting the simple “&” over the door and finding a parking space just outside.

With the weather mild and the doors open as tunes from Robert Johnston and Charlie Parker flowed into the streets we made our into the restaurant to find it largely empty – only two tables filled in the whole space – and wondering if they were even open for business yet we were greeted warmly first by the bartender and then by our waitress, a young lady named Gina who suggested we sit wherever we like. With the scent of pork heavy in the air and the bartender mixing up a whisky sour for one of the ladies at the table nearest the back door we opted for a nicely lit spot closer to the front and navigating heavily wooded and unfinished brick room there was unquestionably a slightly artificial feel to the space, but at the same time it wasn’t so much as to make it feel forced.

Seated now with menus in hand and water filled adult beverages were offered and declined with myself and my mother opting for coffee (Metropolis) that unfortunately reached empty far too many times for a restaurant so unpopulated while my aunt opted for Orange Juice – at $3 actually a bargain compared to other breakfasts in Chicago. With the menu rather short decisions were made and within five minutes of seating our orders were placed allowing us to sit back, relax, and listen to everything from slave-era chants to late 40s big band while we waited.

With a few more folks trickling in, mostly young men opting to sit at the bar and booze over breakfast, our first dish to arrive would be an appetizer shared by all and despite my mother’s insistence that she dislikes scones this was the second time in a row (the last at Bouchon) that she exclaimed the words “Best Scone Ever” as she took a bite of the house-made Cinnamon, Honey, and Apricot Scone topped with Clotted Cream. Beginning first with the scone itself – a heterogeneous biscuit dotted with pockets of butter, sugar, and dried apricots – it was marvelous, but what truly put this scone on another level was the smear of clotted cream and an ample drizzle of apricot tinged honey.

With the scone devoured and our coffees finally receiving a refill at my request it would be another short wait before our main courses would arrive and when they did each looked wonderful but only one actually turned out to be so. Beginning first with mine; Croque Madame with Local Ham, Gruyere, Mornay Sauce, and Duck Egg was overall quite good – a prototype in its ingredients and balance but foiled slightly by the country style bread which was far too crunchy at first but became more pliable with the addition of some of the creamy Mornay served alongside and the rupture of the salted quivering egg. Served with skillet potatoes that were fine but nothing to write home about this was a competent dish, but not on par with other croques I’ve had (Michelin Starred or not.)

Moving next to my mother’s choice, Fried Chicken, Waffles, Sweet Potato & Pork Belly Hash, Vermont Maple Syrup – let’s just say the waffle was good and the hash was great while the chicken was…well…even a bit too undercooked for my tastes and damned near raw compared to my mother’s preferences. Beginning first with the waffle – thicker than generally served with chicken but fluffy and full of yeasty vanilla tones that went great with the syrup. Next up, the hash – smoky and sweet, a touch of nutmeg and perfectly prepared. Finally, the chicken – great coating and crunch, but pink flesh and skin so fatty that it was actually wet – a disappointment that my mother (who “doesn’t like to make a scene”) refused to mention, but stated just last week was some of the worst fried chicken she has ever eaten.

Last but not least my aunt selected the Bananas Foster French Toast with Banana Pudding, Bourbon Caramel Sauce, and Goat Cheese Semifreddo – a dish oddly similar to the dessert she’d order that evening at Mindy’s Hot Chocolate, but actually even better. Featuring two thick slices of golden brioche with a supple interior (note to L&E, use this on the Croque) and an eggy custard wash resting in a puddle of warm pureed bananas and topped with savory cream cheese frosting plus boozy salted caramel this was the sort of sweet breakfast I’d have expected from a place like Bongo Room or M.Henry but definitely not from a gastropub – it was shockingly sweet yet surprisingly balanced and while dessert worthy also rather light on the stomach given the fluffy nature of the bread.

Again having to request a refill, this time by raising my hand like a child in elementary school, Gina stopped by to inquire if we were “all finished” and entirely ignoring the mostly uneaten pink chicken proceeded to collect our plates before filling the coffee and leaving the tab. With the bill paid and a modest (undeserved) tip left it was exactly one hour after we entered the Longman & Eagle that we left and all things being equal I rather doubt I’ll ever be back – though I will admit looking at the dessert menu and having experienced the brunch the team does seem to have some skills with the sweet stuff.

Parker House Restaurant, Boston MA

With the first lecture of the day scheduled to be a good one I got up for an early run at 5:00am on Monday June 6th so that I could have a proper sit-down breakfast at a Boston landmark before the meeting and having already put ten miles of pavement under my feet by the time I arrived at The Omni Parker House I had thankfully worked up quite the appetite. With many (luckier) conference attendees apparently staying at the Parker House the room was full of familiar faces and nametags when I arrived and despite the early hour the classic grand dining room was already over 1/3 full. Approaching the hostess stand and requesting a table for one I was asked then if I’d be enjoying the buffet of a la carte and stating I was as yet uncertain I was offered a table close to the buffet so I could peruse the options.

With the room seemingly unchanged from its mid-19th century origins I was led past high ceilings, oil paintings, wood paneling, crystal chandeliers and hand carved molding by the hostess before reaching a comfy two top near the wall. Asked if I the seat was acceptable I agreed that it was and with that I was left to browse the menu and the room where John F. Kennedy spent many a nights. With the seats posh and the linens thick I will certainly agree with some that the room felt dated, but at the same time there are certain places in history that only need a little maintenance to maintain their charm.

Greeted next by my server my water was filled and I was offered coffee – a bold nutty brew that I often had to stop the bussers from “warming up” because the nearly continuous flow was throwing off my sweetened balance. With the online menu already browsed and the buffet underwhelming a quick perusal of the paper menu and a single question (with a surprising answer) confirmed my order and with that my server disappeared to the kitchen returning moments later to be sure my coffee was filled.

With my question being whether I could order the Parker House rolls as a side dish for breakfast and her answer being that I could simply go up and “take a couple from the buffet – but wait for them to come out warm” I took my cue when a young man carrying a tray of croissants, muffins, bagels, and rolls walked out to replenish the stock and with a small plate in hand I did just as I was instructed while also procuring a tablespoon of butter and a dollop of honey. With the rolls golden on the exterior and warm and soft with notes of yeast and sweetness within I will note that although good these certainly weren’t the quality of the gems that Eric Ziebold is making in DC, but at the same time it is hard to say that something is “better” than the original since, by definition, the original is how it is “supposed” to taste.

For my main course the decision came down to sweet versus savory and as usual the sweet won out when all was said and done. Arriving perhaps fifteen minutes after my order was placed and served hot from the griddle, “Banana Pecan French Toast with sliced Banana, Pecans, Apple Butter, and pure Vermont syrup” was an absolute knockout and despite my adherence to the house classics otherwise it was not only the best dish of the meal, but also the amongst the best breakfast items I had on my visit to Boston. With the toast itself featuring that all-too-rare balance of golden crispy exterior and custard soft center the dish was only improved by the addition of warm sautéed bananas, crushed pecans coated with cinnamon, and a substantial pile of apple butter that was more like apple whipped cream than butter. Finally, though the plated selection was already stellar the addition of an ounce of liquid gold from Sugarman of Vermont only served to gild the proverbial lily.

Working slowly on my main course while sipping my coffee my server asked if I’d like my next course readied to arrive while I enjoyed the French Toast and agreeing to this it would be mere moments after I finished before my dessert (yes, dessert at breakfast after a dish that could have easily served as breakfast) would arrive – predictably the Parker House’s original Boston Cream Pie with two layers of moist sponge cake divided by smooth pastry cream and topped with chocolate and almonds with a hint of rum. Often imitated and frequently duplicated this was perhaps as good as a traditional Boston Cream Pie can get and while I must admit a preference to the more elaborate version at O Ya two nights before it is, like the rolls, a matter of taste; and you really can’t argue with a place willing to serve a single serving cake for breakfast either.

Happy and satiated I sat for a bit while drinking yet another cup of coffee and hoping that the caffeine would overcome the pending crash after my pancreas caught up with the glucose load I’d just consumed. With the time drawing on 7:30 and the conference due to begin at eight I next requested my check and with it would receive one last sweet taste from the kitchen – a post meal palate cleansing shot described as a Strawberry-Banana yogurt cooler; tart, fresh, and delightful.

With the bill and my thanks to the server paid I soon made my way back through the grand room to the lobby where I browsed the classic yet understated interior of the hotel for a few minutes before taking my leave through the golden doors where a young man immediately offered to hail me a cab. With the offer declined and taking to the street I was greeted by the morning sun, Old City Hall, and more of the Freedom Trail as I made my to the conference center arriving just on time for the first lecture. With the lights not yet dimmed I found a seat near the middle of the pack where I’d ironically I’d find myself sitting next to an elderly physician I’d seen eating at the Parker House – a physician who would ask “Was that Boston Cream Pie you were eating for breakfast?” and to which I responded happily “Yes…but the French Toast was better.”

Union Square Cafe, New York NY

If I had to make a list of what I love about New York it would include a number of things; the people, the art, the food, the overall “feel” of the city itself– those to start, plus the Union Squre Hospitality Group – a team that had provided me seven meals at six different locations in the past five visits over the course of four years. Rarely one to dine at the same place twice and generally not a fan of “restaurant groups” one might wonder what it is that USHG does that keeps me coming back over and over again and to that I will say it isn’t only what they do now, but what they did on my very first visit – they made me feel like they care and despite the many changes in my life over the past four years they continue to do so now. Taking that into consideration along with the city, the food, and my friends (plus a little bit of art as it turns out) it really only made sense to end my last trip to The Big Apple at Union Square Café, Danny Meyer’s very first restaurant.

Having admittedly dined very well during each of my visits to New York it actually seemed somewhat strange to me that I’d really never considered USC on my previous visits but as is the case with much of Gotham there always seemed to be something bigger, better, flashier, or newer – especially considering the relatively downscale “Italian-esque” (my words, not theirs) menu when compared to places like The Modern, EMP, or Gramercy Tavern. Always the bridesmaid despite the fact that the spot has essentially redefined New York dining since 1985 while remaining #1 on Zagat’s list of most popular restaurants in the city for the better part of ten years I will admit here that USC almost didn’t even make the cut for this trip either, but with a late change to the ABC Kitchen menu and some time restrictions due to my flight plus ready, willing, and able co-diners the stars finally aligned.

With reservations set for the middle of the lunch hour – a table for three in the main dining room – my arrival at Union Square Café would be perfectly in step with my friends despite the gloomy weather and exchanging pleasantries now for the fourth straight day our coats were checked and we were led through the loud bar area to a quiet and cozy table in the middle of the 3/4 dining room right away. Greeted promptly on seating by our server, a friendly middle-aged man who would keep beverages and bread basket full throughout the afternoon the menu was presented and we were left to our conversations and decisions.

With wooden chairs and white tableclothed tables atop the hardwood floors and light pastels adorning the walls the feel of Union Square Café was decidedly upscale – something like Café Boulud but not quite as tightly spaced – and with a large menu our decision process became one of capacity more so than what sounded best, a decision process helped along by not only our server but General Manager Sam Lipp, an absolutely wonderful host well known to my friends from his long tenure with the Union Square Hospitality Group.

With decisions finally made, essentially two appetizers to be shared as appetizers, two appetizers to serve as my main, and an entrée for each of my friends the first item to arrive from the kitchen was the bread basket and a sizable bowl of olives along with butter topped in celery salt. Having always been impressed by the USHG bread selections this offering would again prove quite good with a tasty Fennel-Seed flatbread and crusty whole wheat holding up their end while the baguette was somewhat flavorless and soft. In addition to the bread the olives were a nice touch while the butter was smooth, grassy, and slightly sweet.

Nibbling on bread while chatting amongst ourselves and again with Mr. Lipp who stopped by with Michael’s wine our first plates to arrive were a pair of dissimilar bedfellows – the first titled “Chinese 5 Spice Fried Duck Meatballs - French Fried Confit, Snow Pea-Cabbage Slaw” and featuring five succulent golf ball sized rounds of tender duck confit blended with ample notes of cinnamon and anise and fried to perfection. Paired with a mild slaw and topped with sweetened fermented soy sauce, soy seeds, and carrot vinaigrette the plate could have stood to be a little warmer in my opinion, but for a restaurant leaning toward Italy their take on Eastern flavors was quite good.

For the second shared appetizer of the afternoon we opted to go with the house specialty as recommended by our server and arriving with more than a dozen creamy dumplings the “Ricotta Gnocchi - Tomato-Basil Passatina, Pecorino Romano” was every bit as good as billed. Amongst my favorite foods whether in the form of potato, choux, spinach, or cheese these smooth balls of mild cheese could not have been lighter and adecorated sparsely with mildly sweet tomato sauce and a hefty grating of Pecorino the flavors were like a hint of spring – vegetal, fresh, and delicious.

Making short work of our appetizers it would be perhaps twenty minutes before our main courses would follow and with the business lunch crowd now heading back to their workplaces the pace of the restaurant as well as the volume in the bar became much more relaxed. With a second wine poured to go with my friend’s main course his choice was “Wild Striped Bass alla Barcaiola - Soft Polenta, Broccoli Rabe.” Featuring easily 12 ounces of nicely prepared fish alongside smooth yet textural polenta blended with aged cheese and tender broccoli rabe the most interesting aspect of this dish actually proved to be the sauce, a blend of anchovies, capers, and garlic that we were told came from a nearly quarter-century old recipe and the sort of flavors I’d have never thought to pair with such a mild protein, but flavors that none-the-less worked and brought out some of the heavier meaty tones of the fish.

Moving on to Rosalind’s selection this meal would once again see her order the Lamb Chops – and this time there was enough to go around and then some to take home. Titled “Lamb Chops "Scotta Dita" - Swiss Chard, Potato-Gruyère Gratin” and prepared just past medium these ample slices of young lamb were nicely charred on the grill and full of flavor on their own, but adding nuance was a glaze/sauce described as an admixture of mustard, balsamic, and garlic that simply made the flavors all the more savory and bold. With the protein’s flavor profile so pronounced, the plate mates in this case turned out to be largely overshadowed but tasty, on one hand bitter chard kissed with olive oil and balsamic and on the other a crispy au gratin potato with very mild cheese and a bit too little salt for my tastes.

Moving on to my selection – two half-portion appetizers actually – my first choice was described as a house favorite and on tasting the “Lasagna alla Bolognese - With Sunny Side Up Knoll Krest Egg” I instantly understood why. First off, beginning with the noodles and the sauce – the first perfectly al dente and the second zippy and slightly acidic with an almost chorizo smokiness to the pork – stopping there it would have been one of the better lasagnas I’ve ever tasted. Then add an egg – a smooth and runny one at that – let’s just say I mopped the plate clean.

Speaking of wiped the plate clean, as good as the lasagna and first plate of gnocchi may have been, my second entrée was perhaps the best pasta of the bunch; Potato Gnocchi - Gorgonzola Fonduta, Radicchio, Vin Cotto. Beginning first with the pasta, this time a potato based dumpling even lighter than the first, they were as good as any I’ve had in New York. Moving next to the toppings – the word “inspired” jumped to mind immediately as the saline cheese proved a perfect foil to the peppery flavors of the Radicchio while the sweet wine served to give everything a bit more pizzazz and a dusting of basil breadcrumbs added just a bit of crunch.

Full but not stuffed and having already scoped out the dessert menu on the way in our server returned to inquire if anyone wanted coffee and with a trip to the airport ahead of me I declined while Rosalind opted for decaf. Knowing for sure that USC’s signature Banana Tart was on our my list to try we inquired about the other options and when no concensus could be reached for which three sounded best we did the only logical thing we could and ordered four.

Beginning first with the aformentioned tart – a recipe that has apparently been being served since USC first opened – the Banana Tart, Macadamia Brittle, and Honey-Vanilla Ice Cream proved every bit worth its designation as a signature dish with the base formed of buttery shortbread studded with Macadamia nuts supporting what was likely an entire banana sliced and coated with a crackling caramel shell. Certainly not a dessert for those with loose teeth (or fillings) the intensely sweet tart was nicely complimented by the ice cream and five lovely caramel coated macadamia nuts who also joined the party.

With the first banana dessert a resounding success, the second would prove perhaps even better – a dessert described as Banana Pretzel Cream Pie with Calvados Caramel and Milk Chocolate Ice Cream and stacked top to bottom with sweet cream atop a layer of sliced bananas supported by soft yet crunchy cake comprised of rich dark chocolate and crushed salted pretzels. Again substantial in sweetness and in portion the dish was finished with a boozy and smoky caramel sauce plus mild chocolate ice cream – an ice cream that despite its great flavor actually proved to serve as a balance to the otherwise intense sweetness of the dish.

With no more bananas left on the menu another dessert we sampled was the Mascarpone Cheesecake with Fennel Shortbread, Meyer Lemon Confit, Grapefruit Sorbet, a dish that was clearly not my choice given my overall laissez-faire attitude about citrus, but a dessert that was none-the-less impressive particularly for the textural aspects of the cheesecake and the manner in which the mild fennel tones served to balance out the acidity of the lemon and grapefruit.

Moving on to our last dessert, my personal selection amongst the four, I opted for the Brioche French Toast with Roasted Apples and Brown Sugar Ice Cream – the least “wowing” of the four in terms of presentation, yet simple and delicious with an airy custard soaked brioche resting in a pool of cinnamon and sugar kissed roasted apples and a quenelle of maple-toned ice cream. It could have been breakfast were it five hours earlier or it could have been dessert five hours later; it was and would be delicious any time.

With desserts plates now vacant our server once again stopped by to see if there was anything else we needed and declining the bill was left to be paid at our leisure. With my friends near to their apartment and myself with time to kill before going to pick up my bags to head to LGA we spent the next twenty to thirty minutes again chatting about the many great meals of my last two trips to New York and once again Sam Lipp stopped by to make sure all had gone well and inviting us to return any time as most of the menu changes frequently – something I would definitely consider given the quality of the meal and the service, both of which were not the same as EMP, The Modern, or Gramercy Tavern but something very warm, familiar, welcoming, and exactly what I’ve come to expect from the Union Square Hospitality Group.