China Poblano, Las Vegas NV

…in The Big Lebowski “The Stranger” says to Lebowski “I like your style, Dude”…that pretty much sums up how I feel about Jose Andres. Having been to Comme Ca earlier in the week I saw Andres pacing circles around the inside of Jaleo – The Cosmopolitan had been open for two days and the restaurant was not yet fully operational. When I left Comme Ca he was standing outside and I walked up, said hello, and told him how I’d really enjoyed The Bazaar, Zaytinya, and Café Atlantico – and jokingly asked who I had to call to get a seat at minibar. He seemed a nice fellow, though clearly his mind was on other things during our brief chat. Excited as I was about his newest concept I told the chef we’d be visiting China Poblano later in the week and he said “it’s my best looking restaurant yet and the menu design has been amazing – be sure to order some tacos.”

Conceptually “Chinese Mexican fusion,” China Poblano is billed as a blending of the two rich cultures. Located on the 2nd floor of the Cosmopolitan somewhat hidden in the back, the restaurant is certainly eye catching. With an entryway shaped like Buddha and “Mexican Takeout” windows on either side the campy feel is palpable, but acceptable. With an interior of communal and separate dining tables, a noodle making station, and wall decorations ranging from Chinese Opera Masks and Lanterns to Luchador Masks and Oaxacan carvings the interior was colorful to say the least. In addition to the fixed objects there were also large morphing murals – projections of famous and peasant Chinese and Mexican individuals. Even the restroom continued the theme – papered in money from each country.

To see the restaurant is to love it – or perhaps to hate it depending on your taste – it is certainly over the top.

With reservations made and my sister and I running late shopping our mother and aunt would arrive at the restaurant before us to collect on the noon reservation, yet entering the doors around 12:10pm it actually wasn’t my family who first caught my eye, but rather Chef Andres who was wandering the premises. A dervish of energy the Chef was both in and out of the kitchen – at one moment visibly inspecting dishes at the pass and the next out chatting with clients, taking pictures, and helping the front of the house. Clearly splitting time between Jaleo and China Poblano his visits to diners were brief and seemingly orchestrated by a large man who would turn out to be the dining room manager. Though Jose never stopped by our table I was able to obtain a signed menu by asking the manager – another in my growing collection.

After finding the ladies (already seated at one of the large communal tables beneath the giant bubble of changing faces and images) we were greeted quickly by our server Brea and noticed menus were already in place as mom and aunt had already ordered Iced Tea ($4 each,) Chips and Salsa fresh tortilla chips/house-made chipotle salsa ($4,) and Guacamole made one-by-one/fresh tortillas ($12.) With the chips, salsa, and tortillas all fairly standard I was somewhat disappointed when my mother told me the salsa was not made tableside a la Café Atlantico – but it sure was good with lots of garlic and cilantro accenting the creamy yet chunky avocado.

With a $5 (10oz) diet coke ordered by my sister we pondered the admittedly eclectic menu for some time before placing orders – admittedly the service at this point was a tad overbearing with Brea eyeing our table frequently and stopping by thrice in a short period of time. With orders placed, however, I will note that the service at China Poblano was exemplary with dishes arriving randomly with excellent descriptions and not in a huge bolus (ie Julian Serrano.) Additionally, despite the bustling nature of the loud restaurant our waters never reached less than half empty, plates and paper napkins (in a dispenser, you’ll need ‘em for those tacos) plus silverware were quickly bussed away by ancillary staff and replaced before they were ever missed.

Beginning first with a round of tacos, we ordered four different options amongst the group. I will note that at the time of our visit the menu was still in development and tacos were sold solo as opposed to in pairs – some options were also cheaper. Arriving in warm soft shells and approximately three bites each the first tastes of taco would come from Langosta. Described as meaty lobster/mango/arbol chile sauce ($16 for 2 now, $6/e prev) the flavors were good, but unfortunately the lobster was slightly overcooked and I felt the chile sauce overwhelmed the subtleties of the sweet crustacean.

Faring better than the lobster would be Silencio tacos - duck tongue/rambutan fruit ($4.5/e.) Unfamiliar with rambutan until this time I was impressed by the fleshy sweet fruit and its ability to temper the salty, savory, and somewhat chewy tongues. While not as nuanced as some of the other tacos, these are definitely worth checking out if only to experience the ingredients at a relatively cheap price.

The Cochinita tacos, described as Yucatan-style pit barbeque pork/marinated onions ($4/e) were good, but rather expected and unidimensional. Savory and sweet the pork and onions melded nicely, but in total the flavor was no better or worse than a good pork taco anywhere else.

The final taco selection would be the best of the group and my favorite savory of the meal - Carnitas braised baby pig/pork rinds/spicy salsa verde cruda ($4/e prev.) With the braised baby pig perfectly done – supple, moist and flavorful – the addition of pork rinds added a lovely degree of crunch and saltiness. Tempering the other two dishes and adding a bit of spice plus vegetal acidity the salsa was spicy without being overly so – in my opinion they should serve this salsa instead of the chipotle version with the tortilla chips.

The next dish to arrive would be our worst of the meal - Coctel de Camarones fresh shrimp/jumbo lump crab meat/tomato/avocado ($12.) Essentially a whole lot of underwhelming salsa in a bowl with a couple of snappy sweet shrimp, thin shreds of crab, and chunks of avocado plus tortillas for dunking it was almost as if someone forgot to add salt, or spice, or vinegar, or really anything other than the listed ingredients which simply were not of all that impressive quality.

Seemingly in defiance of the Coctel, the other tomato based dish we ordered - Love Is In the Air heirloom tomatoes/sugar air ($8.88) was much simpler in ingredients and much more complex in flavor. Nicely presented in a large bowl with what must have been two fresh whole tomatoes and a splash of vinegar the dish was topped with an “mg” manufactured foam full of delicate sweetness that acted only to enhance the natural flavors of the tomatoes beneath.

Interestingly presented, Lamb Pot Stickers Stuck on You vegetables/crispy lace ($11.88 now, $8.88 at our visit) delivered five pockets of lamb, cabbage, radish, and smoky seasonings inside a crispy lace shell. While slightly oily, the lamb itself was impressively cooked and not a bit gamey – with the mélange of vegetables elevated by the cumin and black pepper this dish was clever and tasty with obvious contributions from both Hispanic and Chinese food cultures.

Leaning more towards the Chinese half of the menu for our larger dishes, Ocean Nest scallops/crab/shrimp/pan-fried egg noodles/seasonal vegetables ( $10 at our visit and now $22 w/ king crab/lobster) would be a successful yet rather ordinary dish. With crispy noodles resting in a gentle fish broth at the base and three head-on shrimp, three scallops, and a few chunks of crab interspersed with bok choy, spinach, and onions the flavors all worked and the textures were nicely done – at $10 the dish was a steal, but lobster or not I don’t think I’d recommend it at the current price point unless there was a good deal more seafood.

The second larger plate, The Unruly Monk with hand-cut noodles/bok choy/wild wood ear mushrooms/poached egg ($16) was ordered because we saw the chef hand stretching noodles at the counters. Served in an enormous bowl with perhaps a half liter of broth, boiled bok choy, a single egg, and a plethora of mushrooms the dish would be a nearly mirror experience of the Ocean Nest – a nicely executed dish, but no better than could be made at a local Chinese restaurant in most mid-sized US cities. With the creamy egg definitely adding its characteristic creamy mouth feel to the dish I will note that my sister, who ate the majority of this dish, felt rather ill the rest of the day and stated that she simply couldn’t get the taste of egg out of her stomach/throat until nearly 24 hours later.

Full and largely uninspired by the dessert menu we decided to order one dessert and share. Opting for the “Tres Lychees – a new take on the Mexican classic” ($8) this dish was obviously another attempt at fusion and while it was light and flavorful, the taste was somewhat “minty” which blended with the lime to create a seemingly mojito flavored crema atop a sweet biscuit. An interesting concept I’m simply not a fan of minty desserts and the concept seemed a tad “forced” – perhaps it would be better with more milky sweetness and less of the minty nuances.

In the end I think the verdict is still out on China Poblano – I’m not willing to rule it out, but I’m also not ready to say the “concept” (which is exactly what it is) “works.” While certain dishes worked to great effect, others merely represented decent versions of Americanized ethnic food, and some were simply underwhelming. Looking at the menu only 2 weeks after my visit I already see many changes and given Andres’ propensity for exploration I’ve no doubt the menu will continue to evolve as they find what works and doesn’t – I only hope the prices don’t continue to trend upwards unless the food does, as well.

Jaleo, Washington DC

Having already experienced Zaytinya and Café Atlantico it was only natural that my trip to Washington include some uproar, revelry, and merry-making at Jaleo. Citing that Spanish definition of the word and realizing that this was perhaps José Andrés most well known restaurant I will admit I was at first somewhat hesitant to book reservations – how original could something be that had already been replicated twice? With fears set aside by some assuring word of mouth and an extensive menu that would certainly please all in my family I concluded the worst it could be was generic – and quite frankly, generic and Andres just don’t seem to belong in the same sentence.

Arriving early in the lunch hour we were greeted by the hostess and led to a cozy four-top in the back corner of the restaurant – an odd choice given the fact that there was only one other couple present when we arrived. With the extensive menu of 70+ items and 10 more daily specials presented it was suggested that 2-3 items each would likely suffice and we were left to make decisions. Water sat empty for some time before our waiter, perhaps the most disinterested server since Norma’s in New York – a man named John P arrived. When he finally stopped by he filled water and took drink orders – two Iced teas and two of us sticking with water. Returning with the iced tea he left before we could order…and didn’t return (bear in mind, there were approximately 10 people in the whole restaurant at this point, though it would fill up later.) Eventually catching the eye of another server I gave him a “head nod” and he walked over – explaining the situation orders were quickly taken and later we saw John P taken aside by the dining room manager…service would subsequently improve, though certainly not to the level of Atlantico or Zaytinya.

With orders placed the table bread arrived – a crusty and warm Sourdough paired with a sweet olive oil poured tableside over a whole clove of crushed garlic – an excellent bread with a crust so hefty and crumbly that making a mess was required.

While it took our table nearly 30 minutes to place orders I must say that the speed of preparation and delivery was vastly more efficient – ordering all at once the dishes began to arrive fast, furious, and fresh from the kitchen. Options arriving during the first wave, each with excellent descriptions by a variety of runners, included Flores de calabaza con queso Idiazabal y jamon (Squash Blossoms with Idiazabal Cheese and Ham,) Pan con tomate (Toasted slices of rustic bread brushed with fresh tomato and Pasamontés farmhouse Manchego,) and Manzanas con hinojo y queso Manchego (Sliced apples and fennel salad with Manchego cheese, walnuts and Sherry dressing.) Each featuring a combination of cheese and vegetables I was quite pleased with the Tomato bread and Salad ordered, but I knew I would be – we’d had them both at Bazaar in the past. The most unique item of this round was from the daily specials, the Squash Blossoms with Idiazabal and Ham – unfortunately it was also the worst (and priciest.) Tasting largely like good ham and excellent cheese on toasted bread there was nothing wrong with the sandwich – but from the menu description I simply figured the featured flavor would be the largely untastable blossoms.

The second round of courses, arriving as we worked on the first dishes, included two new options - Erizos de mar con pipirrana (A spoonful of sea urchin with diced peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers) and Arroz de pato ‘Jean-Louis Palladin’ (Rice with duck confit, duck breast and foie gras cream.) Pricey at $6 I will say that from the small bite of the Erizos I tasted the urchin was phenomenal and paired well with the salsa-esque compontents. Better yet, and much more substantial in portion, was the Arroz de pato, a rich and hearty comfort-food presentation with perfectly prepared rice balanced against rich cream and rare pan seared duck.

Datiles con tocino ‘como hace todo el mundo’(Fried dates wrapped in bacon that you will want to eat every day,) Croquetas de pollo (Traditional chicken fritters,) and Salmón con coliflor y frambuesas (Seared salmon with cauliflower purée and raspberries) would arrive next – each well prepared and delicious, though the first two certainly best as tapas for sharing and the last more suited as a “main course.” Sweet and Savory the dates were everything I expected and the fritters, another flashback to The Bazaar, were creamy and smooth. With regard to the salmon I must note it was slightly overcooked for my tasted, but paired well with the creamy cauliflower puree and zesty raspberry reduction while the crispy cauliflower and whole berries added a fibrous contrast.

With everything served tapas style as it left the kitchen it was somewhat interesting that 2/3 of my aunt’s dishes came out last – no fault of the kitchen, just luck of the draw. Arriving together the Salpicón de cangrejo (Jumbo lump crabmeat with cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, cauliflower and Sherry dressing) and Papas arrugas (Canary Island-style wrinkled baby potatoes served with mojo verde (cilantro, cumin, garlic, Sherry vinegar and olive oil sauce) were both quite excellent. With an ample pile of sweet blue crab balanced with mild vegetables and a fantastic Sherry dressing the crab salad was certainly my favorite cold dish of the meal while the Papas were simple, salty little bites that paired quite nicely with the mildly acidic and heavily nuanced dipping sauce.

Arriving with my aunt’s dishes were two ordered by myself – the Guisantes al natural con huevo (Sautéed organic Tuscarora fresh English peas served with a slow cooked poached egg) and Calamares con piñones y Pedro Ximénez (Seared fresh squid with pine nut praline and a PX reduction)…they also turned out to be my two favorite savories of the meal. Feeling a tad full from the bread and other tapas I’d sampled I started off with the Guisantes…superb and much more than the description would have you believe. Perfectly sautéed in the smoky pork broth with ample hints of mushroom and cumin the peas were sweet yet creamy – and that creamy flavor was only improved by the fresh and luscious egg. More impressive yet, the squid - two large cephalopods stuffed with a sweet pine nut and surrounded by a buttery vinegar reduction…potentially the best “Calamari” I’ve ever tasted.

With myself the only person over ordering everyone else eyed the dessert menu with lust – at least 6 options jumping out at us. Declining coffee but never one to forgo the pastry side of an Andres kitchen I joined in and four desserts were ordered, all arriving at the same time. First, for my mother, the Flan al estilo tradicional de mamá Marisa con espuma de crema Catalana (A classic Spanish custard dessert with ‘espuma’ of Catalan cream and oranges.) Simple, elegant, and wonderful this dish truly did exude tradition as the creamy sweetened flan held up nicely to the fork and the melting cream proved a brilliant foil to the strong citrus of the vinegar reduced oranges.

My sister’s choice, Sopa fría de frutas del bosque con helado de queso fresco (Chilled mixed fruit soup with berries and fresh cheese ice cream,) was not something I would have ordered, but on tasting it I was certainly glad she did. Almost a molecular gastronomy experiment focused on the concept of the cheese cart the dish featured a truly aromatic and pungent ice cream that I’m rather certain was Idiazabal paired wonderfully with a smooth reduction that tasted the very essence of summer – Strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, and raspberries. Delightful.

My selection of the afternoon, Compota de manzana al pan perdido con Pedro Ximénez (Apple charlotte with Pedro Ximénez & vanilla ice cream,) once again turned out to be my favorite. Essentially a Spanish Bread Pudding the dish reminded me fondly of the version at The Inn at Little Washington with a delicate custard cake seemingly made of semi-solid applesauce paired with creamy vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of sweet vinegar – good at first the dish actually got better with each bite as the bottom was immersed in a caramel/vinegar reduction.

Espuma de avellanas y chocolate (Chocolate and hazelnut mousse torte) was my aunt’s selection and while delicious on its own (think nutella on chocolate cake) the addition of a creamy drizzle of “hot chocolate reduction” and caramelized corn nuts only added to the experience – clever, whimsical, and tasty.

Collecting our plates the check was dropped off – modest for so much quality food, but somehow it seemed high for the experience. Sure, the service was sub-par and some of the food rather pedestrian, but normally good food with family is enough to make me feel the meal was worth it…something about Jaleo just felt generic…like the whole concept could be replicated anywhere with a competent kitchen and some stylish paintings…then I realized it could be – at two other places within 50 miles. A nice place for lunch, hors d’oeuvres, or happy hour – sure, but not a “dining experience.”

Cafe Atlantico, Washington DC

In planning the DC trip I got shut out on minibar and decided instead to sample Andres’ from a more casual standpoint – three lunches during the visit. Having experienced Zaytinya on Saturday it seemed only logical that I should follow that visit up with a trip to the famous Latino Dim Sum at Café Atlantico. Described as “Nuevo Latino” the menu runs the gamut from $2 to $10, a single bite to a full plate, and from Latin to Asian to just plain bizarre. Open for nearly two decades I’d heard that the experience wasn’t as novel as it may have been in the past but overall the reviews were solid, the reservation was available, and the menu was loaded with dishes that sounded at least interesting and at best downright brilliant.

Arriving as the restaurant opened its doors we sat at the bar for only 10 minutes before being led upstairs by our server, a lovely young lady named Lauren. Guiding us through the menu options, suggested number of courses, and fielding questions about various dishes for my picky family she was knowledgeable and friendly – in addition to this our beverages were kept full to the brim throughout the meal – for myself coffee and water, for my aunt the Dominican Lemonade, for mother the mint limeade, and for my sister hot tea. Without going into excessive detail I will also note that my mother, a longtime Meniere’s sufferer, had a rather severe attack midway through our brunch and both Lauren and two other servers checked in immediately to make sure everything was okay – after explaining the condition they offered to do anything they could to help, an appreciated gesture although there was really nothing they could do but wait for the spell to pass.

The above noted I have to say I was quite taken by the colors, layout, and atmosphere of Café Atlantico. Seated just across from the famous minibar the room was spacious and light with high ceilings, four layers, and a centrally located kitchen wide open for viewing. Casual but refined the platings were well manicured and colorful while the individual course presentations were accurate, appropriate in temperature, and served at a pace that was neither too quick nor overly long – the ability to order in waves was also appreciated, especially given my mother’s condition.

Kicking off the meal we opted for Andres’ famous Tableside Guacamole with corn chips and Cotija cheese – at $14 I rather expected something excellent but what we received was merely “good.” Opting for “medium” spiciness the flavor was actually quite mild – less tasty and less spicy than the mild version at Topolobampo. While I enjoyed the tableside preparation the man making it said little and merely plopped the stone bowl down after finishing – without adding the cheese. Approximately a minute later (as we sat there wondering if the cheese had been incorporated without our noticing) the manager arrived with the cheese and topped the dish, acting largely as if this were planned when it was clearly forgotten. With the added sharpness and salinity of the cheese the flavors were indeed improved – but not in line with the price.

For our first round of savories we received the Pineapple shavings with plantain powder and tamarind oil and Hot & cold foie gras and corn soup plus two cute Chinese take-out boxes. First tasting the Pineapple all I can say was that it was bland – almost as if the pineapple simply was not fresh. With a bit of spice and a unique banana tinge my aunt notably liked the dish, but overall the added flavors did nothing for me. Moving on to the soup, essentially a double-shot containing warm corn chowder topped with chilly foie gras froth – it was again good, but not great. Tasting almost like a liquid corn bread I liked the hot/cold interplay and the manner in which the initial taste was sweet corn while the lingering flavor on the palate was the sapor of the foie gras.

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Contained in the take out boxes were two starch dishes, the Cauliflower-quinoa “cous-cous” and the Coconut rice, crispy rice & ginger. Beginning with the quinoa, quite frankly this fit right in the Chinese Take-Out box. With almost imperceivable flecks of crispy cauliflower dotting the well prepared quinoa the overall flavor was merely salty and soy – this was my least favorite dish of the meal, though my sister (who ordered it) quite liked it. The second box was much more well composed, more nuanced, and a favorite amongst all at the table. Essentially a savory risotto taking on elements of rice pudding I loved the manner in which the mild coconut essence rose to the palate while hints of ginger and sweetness pleased the tongue. Adding contrast were rice puffs, only somewhat more crispy than those made by the folks at Kellogg’s – somehow it worked perfectly.

Moving on to our next round of courses, again served in pairs separated by 7-15 minutes, the first pairing received was Mushrooms with egg 63 and Huitlacoche & wild mushroom quesadilla. Beginning with the egg, a sous-vide preparation I’d experienced at The Bazaar but this time paired with a hearty stew of woodsy mushrooms as opposed to silky potato puree, it was perfect – the creaminess and smoothness of the egg balancing competently with the fibrous and aromatic fungi. Fittingly arriving with the egg was another mushroom dish, this time a pan-crisped house-made tortilla housing layers of silky portabella mushroom, smoky corn-smut, and melted cheese.

The second pairing to arrive, ordered by my aunt and sister respectively, were Endive with Queso Fresco Espuma Walnuts and pomegranate and Scallops with cauliflower puree. Without belaboring the point significantly I will note the Endive was rather uninspired – bitter greens, a flavorless cloud of foam, a chopped walnut or two, and some pomegranate…the overall flavor was simply dull with only the pomegranate showing any pizzazz. Contrary to the bland Endive were the Scallops – fresh, immense, buttery and only pan-kissed they would have been excellent on their own – paired with a mild puree of what seemed to be only sieved cauliflower and garlic they were flawless.

It was around this time that my mother’s vertigo flared – the servers were confused and things were slightly delayed, but after everything settled down and I explained the situation the meal was back on pace – with six dishes arriving only moments apart. Beginning first with the dish ordered but not tasted by my mother, Chicken Wing, Sweet Potato Puree, Blue Cheese I will say that these boneless wings were crisp, juicy, and not at all spicy – instead they were mildly sweet and well complimented by the bite of the cheese and the smoothness of the sieved potatoes. Arriving along with the Chicken wings were the Malanga chips Plantains and curry, a light and tasty dish of paper thin taro flash fried and well accented with sweet plantains and pungent curry.

Two seafood dishes arrived quickly – the first my aunt’s Seared crabcake with citrus and the second the famous Conch fritters with a liquid center ordered by myself. An excellent crabcake light on filler and heavy on crab the dish was compact yet tasty – the sweet crab well matched with two bitter-sweet slices of grapefruit and a small salad. More impressive than the crab, however, were the Conch fritters – literally a corndog style ball loaded with a creamy cheese and chunks of fresh conch. Three to the box, eat-smile-repeat.

Our final two savories were Tuna ceviche with coconut and Fried egg with mashed black beans & pork. Straight forward and citrus kissed the nearly raw tuna was fresh and complimented texturally by the crunchy and smooth coconut. With small specks that tasted almost like graham crackers dotting the plate I quite liked the small bite my sister allowed me to taste. The second dish – essentially the most savory “ham n’ eggs” you can imagine. Crispy on the exterior yet runny inside the egg simply melted together with the heavy flavors of the black beans and smoky pulled pork while crunchy tortillas added texture.

With mom feeling better but still not up for eating we decided to order dessert – at $9 we selected three options and they all arrived simultaneously. Selecting the chocolate item du jour my aunt received warm chocolate cake with Venezuelan chocolate flan,banana foam and fresh banana-lime salad. While I personally did not note the lime, there was certainly a citrus accent to the plate that worked unexpectedly well with the lava-style cake and smear of chocolate flan – it prevented this from being a simple exercise in chocolate and bananas that predominates so many dessert menus these days.

My sister’s option was warm Apples & Raisins with cinnamon brick dough, green apple sorbet & tamarind sauce. Crisp and somewhat akin to a strudel I found the entire dish quite tart with only the raisins acting to add sweetness. With the apples served warm the apple sorbet melted quickly and again seemed too sour for my palate – perhaps I just like sweet desserts…

Speaking of sweet desserts, my choice for dessert was Cuatro Leches “Morir Soñando” - leche merengada ice cream, oranges and almond. Having tasted tres leches multiple times in the past this dish added almond milk and true to form was intensely sweet. With an almost butter-cake texture to the pastry itself I loved the mingling of sweet-milky tones and particularly enjoyed the notes of almond milk and crumbled almonds as they contrasted with the citrusy orange slices.

When the meal was finished my mother opted to return to the hotel with my aunt while my sister and I opted for the National Gallery - with our big family meal planned at The Inn at Little Washington that evening mom needed some time to get her strength back while we needed to walk off some of Jose Andres’ handiwork. Looking back on the meal I have to say it was the least impressive of the ThinkFoodGroup’s offerings, but certainly not a bad or overpriced meal for the quality of the food and service. While some items shined others left me wondering what the big deal was – unlike The Bazaar, Zaytinya, or the vast majority of our tapas at Jaleo. At some point I’d still like to get back to minibar, regardless – especially if it happened to be on a night when Andres was in the kitchen.