Camellia Grill, New Orleans LA

After a late night in the quarter and some sluggish traffic on the way back to Metaire I decided to sleep in...until a whopping 6:00am. With my plane leaving en route for O'Hare at 11:20am and my car due back at the rental company by 10:00 I decided to go for a jog, get showered, and pack/checkout early and grab a bite to eat before I boarded the plane. With 6pm reservations at Alinea for The Tour and uncertain lunch plans I wanted something filling that wouldn't take too long but would also provide one last memorable experience of New Orleans...I thought waffles and pie fit the bill nicely.

Hopping into the car and heading eastward I found some sticky traffic due to construction but still managed to arrive in front of the famous Camellia Grill by 8:15. Walking into the small restaurant I found both the facade and the countertop layout to be particularly "homey" and pleasant. With four servers behind the bar and three open stools at the dead center of the action I waltzed up and sat down only to have the two chairs next to me filled seconds later by another couple and a subsequent line begin to grow - it was 15-20 deep by the time I left at 9:15.

Greeted promptly by my server, a short African American fellow wearing a badge that read "Sleepy" I chuckled at his low voice, smooth demeanor, and tired looking eyes. While the name may have fit his look, it most certainly didn't fit his efficiency as he moved quickly around the bar serving multiple persons in multiple seats without missing a beat. A menu placed in front of me and water and coffee filled I was told to "gimme a holler when you're ready" and Sleepy went off to serve other diners.

Browsing the menu didn't take long but watching the expert grill man was definitely a distraction worth watching as he worked griddle, grill, and waffle irons rapidly. Sipping my coffee I have to say it wasn't the best of the trip, but for the price it most certainly wasn't bad with it's heavy chicory notes balanced by a bold chocolate and woody undertone. Catching Sleepy with a nod of the head he came over to gather my order, checked off the boxes, and passed it on to the cook.

Sitting back and watching the show that is the waiters at Camellia I have to say I was amused - it is rare to see people look like they're having so much fun working together, especially with such efficiency...it reminded me of Dottie's in San Francisco or The Griddle in Los Angeles, but more culturally oriented and humorous....though perhaps more choreographed. Watching the look on his wife's face as my neighbor received a gigantic omelet with chili and a chocolate shake for breakfast was another great treat while I waited a short 15 minutes for my first dish to arrive.

Brought hot off the waffle iron (irons that look to have been through a war in addition to the hurricane) and placed before me with a "there ya go - and here's the cane syrup, ignore that maple stuff" my pecan waffle looked quite unlike the fluffy buttermilk waffles I was familiar with but moreso like a 50/50 mix of dough and pecans - crisp, golden, and flat. Topping the waffle with the liquid butter (recommended by another server over the hard butter) and the cane syrup and proceeding to take a bite I was surpised by the texture - fluffy and nutty to mastication and actually quite delicious on its own, but even better with the syrup and butter. Not overly filling on its own despite its large plate size I was quite happy with the waffle - though it had no chance to trump what followed.

After taking a seat and ordering more waffle I'd asked if the Pecan Pie was available so early in the morning to which sleepy said "it's never too early for pie" and while eating my waffle I watched sleepy cut a sizable slice from the refridgerated pan and hand it to the grill man who subsequently placed it top down on the hot buttered grill and allowed it to cook for approximately 5-6 minutes until the buttery pecan and cinnamon smell was evident even at my seat. Flipping it off the grill onto a plate and passing it off to Sleepy he noted "HOT PIE COMING THROUGH" loud enough for all to hear. Presenting the plate to me he said "Hot Pie - but it looks naked...what this needs is some Ice Cream!" Chuckling and nodding my head in affirmation Sleepy pulled out an icecream scoop and placed an enormous scoop of vanilla right on top of the pie exclaiming "WHOOMP - There it is!" Melting rapidly atop the scorching pie the icecream quickly cooled the dish and taking a bite I was quite impressed by both the smoothness of potent vanilla ice cream and the buttery cinnamon essences of the pecan pie. Eating slower as the pie began to cool I was more impressed by the lack of "filler" and the plethora of pecans as well as the buttery crisp crust...from now on I think pie at breakfast will be a vacation requirement.

Thanking Sleepy and his cohorts for a great experience I picked up my bill and made my way to the door where you pay a friendly lady who chalks up the tab based on the checkmarks. Given the option to tip on my credit card or pay the server cash I simply put another 20% on the card and made my way to the street with a big smile on my face – and a smile on the face of the people waiting in line for a seat. Hopping in the car and making my way to the rental car agency I was glad to have experienced Camellia Grill – a sweet ending to a great trip.

Restaurant August, New Orleans LA

Great parades, great people, amazing food – really, the most “fun” I’ve had on a trip in the past year…and to cap off a wonderful visit to New Orleans I wanted to do something special – to go out on top, as it were. Having already done classic or refined New Orleans cuisine for most of my meals I figured a trip to the pinnacle of “haute-Creole” was in order –after the meal I had at Luke I was relatively certain that John Besh’s flagship wouldn’t disappoint. After a few more hours of wandering the quarter, people watching (the costumes are better than Halloween,) and shopping I made my way to the doors of Restaurant August approximately 5 minutes early for my 8:00pm reservation.

Entering the small lobby I felt comfortable – this place looked and felt like fine dining…not that other places in New Orleans didn’t, but this was more Robuchon or Keller than Clancy or Brigtsen. Greeted by a pair of friendly hosts my reservation was confirmed and I was led to a two-top along the wall of the front dining room – plenty of light, a great view of the street, and isolated from the sounds of the surprisingly loud bar. Water choices (sparkling, tap, bottled) were offered and I selected tap – it is appropriate to note here that twice during the meal I had to raise my glass or ask the server for water refills – a minor thing to some but a mistake that should not happen at a restaurant like August.

Greeted next by my waiter, a younger Asian fellow who appeared sporadically but was clearly working in other rooms of the large house as well, I was given a menu as well as wine/cocktail list which I declined. Going over the structure of the menu my server explained the 4-course, 7-course, and a la carte options while additionally noting that anything on either of the tasting menus could be ordered a la carte. In asking about creating my own tasting he stated that 2 appetizers, a main, plus dessert would be “probably a lot of food” – so I ordered 3 appetizers and a main with dessert to be decided on later.

Arriving first along with my coffee - the same excellent blend that was served at Luke – was French Bread and Butter. More “mini-baguettes” than the big loafs elsewhere these certainly fit the concept of fine dining, but unfortunately the exterior was a bit too crunchy and the exterior to interior ratio led to a rather dry experience. Served with the same delectable butter as at Luke I’m rather certain Besh must have this sourced for all of his restaurants and he should definitely let other local restaurants in on the secret.

My first course of the meal was my first amuse of the trip – an interesting fact given the places I normally dine. Served in an eggshell the dish was described as a seafood custard sabayon with paddlefish roe and brioche. Large in size I cannot say this amuse reinvented the wheel – in actuality it is something I’ve seen at multiple restaurants before and tasted like a less refined version of Picholine’s sea urchin panna cotta served in a yard egg shell. A nice way to start, but somewhat safe.

Arriving only seconds after I finished the amuse was my first course of the evening, for all intents and purposes the dish that has become Restaurant August’s signature dish - Potato gnocchi with Blue Crab and Black Truffles in Cream Sauce. Topped with shaved parmigiano-reggiano just prior to service and featuring an ample portion of crab and cream sauce plus small chips of black truffle the gnocchi were pillow-soft and perfectly prepared – the best textured potato gnocchi I’ve had since the French Laundry. Well complimented by the buttery sauce the crab was delectable and the cheese lent sharpness to the dish as well as some textural variation. If anything were disappointing about this dish it would be the truffles – largely lacking in both aroma and flavor I think the dish would have been just as good without their presence.

My second dish of the evening was the ever rotating (and bargain priced at $20) Foie Gras three ways. Another ever-present August item the nightly preparation featured a small dollop of mousse in “crunchy chicory crumbs” over mango puree on the left, a German inspired “Pickled Foie Gras Gateaux” surrounded by sweetened layers of cake and topped with Riesling gelatin cubes in the middle, and a pheasant and Foie pate with fig compote to the right. Served with buttery toasted brioche I absolutely loved the bitter/sweet contrast of the dollop, particularly spread on the bread but also quite liked the Gateaux which my server explained to me was pickled and slow cooked in pear vinegar. While I can’t say I loved the pheasant terrine I’ve never really fancied mixed fowl/foie outside of the version at Guy Savoy – that noted it was definitely as good as the preparations I had at Per Se and Daniel.

The second service issue of the evening occurred after the foie gras – my next course arrived literally 20 seconds after I finished the Foie Gras and it was cool – almost as though they’d not expected me to take my time with the foie (I admittedly requested a second plate of brioche and spent 20 minutes on the dish.) Aside from the temperature and rushed timing I will admit that for a mere $11 the truffle larded Sweetbreads picatta was quite excellent. Featuring two large and creamy pan-seared sweetbreads pounded flat the texture of the meat and the manner in which it contrasted with the wilted romaine were excellent while the herbed cream sauce was reminiscent of a refined ranch dressing with tones of lemon and capers peaking through and accenting the protein.

For my main I went with the trend of my trip and the timing between this course and the sweetbreads was perfect. Entitled “Sugar and Spice Duckling with roasted duck foie, McEwan’s stone ground grits and candied quince” the presentation of the dish was quite nice and I understood where the chef was going with the preparation – but unfortunately the duck didn’t live up to its complimentary pieces. Overly salted and somewhat chewy this was the first duck of the trip that I felt was of less than stellar sourcing quality – it was a tad gamey and the cane sugar sweetness wasn’t quite enough to temper the briny flavor. Where the duck lacked I was quite impressed by the vanilla and butter accented grits, perfectly cleaned and seared foie, and the sweet yet balanced quince. Consuming the duck with its companion carbs helped, but for $32 the main component of the dish should’ve been better.

It was at this point of the meal that I raised my glass (as noted above) to request a water refill and this must have been witnessed by one of the dining room captains who personally filled the glass and later pulled my server aside near the kitchen – apparently to lecture him – just prior to him bringing me the dinner menu. Browsing the dessert menu and seeing no bread pudding I decided to go with my gut and try something with Banana – in this case Pere Roux’s banana rum cake with Creole cream-cheese icing. Explaining that this dish would take “about ten minutes” to prepare I opted to make my way to the restroom and interestingly walked right past the pastry kitchen upstairs while where the chef was hard at work.

Returning to my table the captain stopped by again and apologized for the “inconvenience” explaining that they had a relatively new staff and many of their more experienced servers were off for the holiday. Explaining to him that it really was not a big deal but thanking him for the concern he told me the dessert would be “on the house” and sure enough neither it nor the coffee appeared on my final bill. When the dessert did arrive it was truly worth the wait – a hand-made layer cake fresh from the kitchen. Featuring interspersed layers of creamy banana butter cake soaked in rum with layers of creamy vanilla accented cream cheese icing and paired with white chocolate shavings, fresh berries, and a smear of caramel this dessert was truly beautiful and equally delicious.

Smiling contently the captain came to check on me again and we talked food for a few moments before I was brought the admittedly modest bill along with the nightly mignardises – two small “praline brittles” that were like crunchy pralines and two lemon accented madelines that were alright but certainly not Daniel, Alex, or Ducasse quality. As an added bonus I was given two of the nightly take-home gifts – on this day a miniature King Cake that was surprisingly moist, textural, and with plenty of cinnamon and sugar – I took the second cake home to my aunt who I met in Chicago and she noted it was still delicious 24 hours later.

Making my way out of Restaurant August I have to say that in total I was quite pleased with the meal but in reality it just didn’t live up to its (then) reputation as one of Gayot’s top 40 restaurants in America. Having had some incredible meals in New Orleans during my stay I guess I went into August expecting to be blown away but what I received was mostly great food, adequate refined service, and a very nice setting at a good price - but then again I received that at every dinner I experienced in New Orleans and in each other case the food was more rustic but just as good, the service more attentive and detailed, and the settings more “old school” but just as pleasant. While I’m glad I experienced August and I certainly respect Chef Besh’s culinary skills if I were given the option to relive one meal in New Orleans August wouldn’t be my first choice.

Luke, New Orleans LA

…the Zulu parade went well – almost too well. I met some great folks, learned a ton about New Orleans culture and the Zulu parade…and being up front, tall, and mobile I caught (or was handed – thank God they don’t throw those things) ten coconuts and a boatload of beads. Having packed light and leaving the following morning I gave away most of the beads and two of the heavier hand-painted nuts to some of the smaller folks – elderly ladies in most cases since the little kids catch more than enough. All in all the Zulu parade was a blast and their costumes, music, and vibe plus the people in the crowd were alone worth the trip to New Orleans.

With the Zulu parade and its subsequent walking groups finishing up around 2:00pm I decided it was time for lunch and proceeded east with my coconuts packed in a large bag. Walking slowly through the crowds and piles of discarded beads I reached the Hilton St. Charles around 2:45 and approached the hostess stand at Luke sans reservations. Greeted by a rather downtrodden young lady I was told “well, there is seating at the bar” when I asked for a table – one of the 20+ that was open. Walking over to the bar and taking a seat I stared blankly at the space in front of me for 5 minutes without anyone addressing me before I stood up and went back to the hostess stand to find a much more pleasant young woman who said “a table for one? Right this way” and led me to a cozy little table near the middle of the restaurant. I really have no idea what to make of the initial interaction as I never saw the first hostess again but I can only assume she was at the end of her shift…or perhaps didn’t even work there?

Greeted almost immediately upon seating by my friendly server – a young man who managed what appeared to be the entire front room without difficulty and maintained the demeanor of someone trained under the Thomas Keller Empire – the service would be perfect throughout. Bread was timely, coffee and water refills spot on, plate descriptions accurate thorough, and all done with a friendly down-to-earth demeanor and a smile. Going over the daily special with me I was left to decide while he went to get my coffee.

Listening to the room – lively but not loud despite the parade going by in the street – I labored over the menu for some time because everything sounded quite good – essentially bistro fare with a southern twist. Returning with the coffee – a great thick blend with a bit of chicory but more prominently cocoa notes (I’m rather certain the same as that at August) I decided to go with the “express lunch” special – a $15 soup and main combo plus an added appetizer. Smiling my server told me I’d made a great choice and slipped away to serve his other tables.

Arriving shortly after my order was placed – yet another crispy and golden French loaf, this time served with a delightful and grassy salted butter. While the bread was not quite as delicious as that at Clancy’s it was my second favorite of the trip and the butter put it over the top – thankfully I limited myself to just the one loaf because it turns out Luke’s “deal” lunch is not for the faint of heart (or stomach.)

Arriving first, my soup – the daily special of crawfish bisque. Clearly tomato and cream based with heavy spicing and ample crawfish the dish was unlike any bisque I’ve ever tasted, but certainly not a gumbo either. Loaded with chunks of fresh crawfish and spicy without being “hot” I liked the bisque and as it would turn out (oddly) to be my only experience with crawfish on the trip I was glad I’d chosen it even though I likely would have preferred the daily gumbo.

My second dish, an addition to the prix fixe, was the Foie Gras – quite frankly, if a place is offering a terrine of Foie I’m probably going to order it. Presented elegantly this terrine proved not only good, but exemplary. Featuring a thick cut of slow cooked terrine painted on all sides with a Gewürztraminer reduction, topped with micro greens and a coarse sea salt, and drizzled with thick and sweet balsamic I can favorably compare this $16 preparation to the $30 supplemented version served at The French Laundry – though it wasn’t quite as airy or delicate. Served with toasted brioche (I was brought more on request) and beautifully textured I would strongly recommend any fan of cold foie to visit Luke for the experience.

Arriving next was the daily special – having looked at the menu I was surprised when it arrived because I expected a sandwich…but the surprise was the good kind…the really good kind. In describing their cochon du lait prep my server told me how the slow roast pork is reduced down similar to pulled pork and then “rehydrated” with a dairy, onion, and garlic reduction (plus the chef’s special spices) and then pan fried crispy on top. If that description doesn’t do it for you – try it…almost a sweet yet creamy pork meatloaf with a crispy and salty skin akin to pork belly. Accompanying the pork on the plate were not only the advertised stewed greens and vinegar laden cherry mustard, but also a hefty helping of cornbread dressing. Call it bistro food, call it soul food, call it comfort food – I call it one of the most unexpectedly delicious dishes I’ve had in some time.

Finishing my pork the server stopped by and since the place was less busy he stood and chatted for a bit – asking where I was from, how I’d heard about the restaurant, and just talking “food culture” in general – he also noted that this was the first Mardi Gras during which he was working and said he was disappointed to be missing the parades. Telling him about the Zulu parade he stated “I can’t believe it” when I told him about the coconuts and proceeded to tell me he’d only managed to catch one a year the previous two seasons. Feeling bad for him having to miss such a great parade I offered him a coconut – “consider it part of the tip” and he graciously accepted. Asking me if I was interested in dessert I told him I didn’t even need the menu – just bring the bread pudding.

Arriving about 15 minutes later as I read a complimentary copy of the New York Times the bread pudding was an absolute masterpiece – the best traditional bread pudding I’ve ever tasted. Described simply as cinnamon raisin bread pudding with vanilla bean ice cream and hot buttered pecan sauce the complexities of the dish were astounding for a bread pudding – piping hot with the smooth and creamy ice cream slowly melting the bread pudding itself was marvelous in custard/bread ratio and the sauce had minimal alcoholic kick while instead focusing on notes of caramel, pecan, cinnamon, and what may have even been honey. Having had a whole lot of bread pudding in my time this was undoubtedly my favorite non-chocolate version to date.

Settling the bargain of a bill and offering me a refill of my coffee to go my server asked where I planned to watch the rest of the parades and I told him I’d likely head back to the Garden District. At this point he informed me that if I walked out the side doors (presumably to the restroom) I’d have full access to the Hilton balcony overlooking St. Charles Avenue. Thanking him greatly for the tip I made my way out and soon found myself standing with less than 20 other people far above the crowds on St. Charles to watch the end of Rex and most of Elks before I bid farewell to the friendly people with me (mostly tourists) and making my way back to the streets.

Clancy's, New Orleans LA

Intentionally parking South of the parade routes due to my dinner reservations I did a lot of walking after lunch at NOLA – I wandered the Riverwalk and watched some Jazz provided by the Zulu folks, I went to Harrah’s and watched some terrible cover bands sing terrible Journey, I shopped the Canal Street Mall and the independents around the Quarter (Much love for tacky Mardi Gras colored antique cufflinks,) and I finally wandered down to the Avenue Café on St. Charles for some excellent Chicory Coffee – the best of the trip – because it was getting nippy out prior to Proteus and Orpheus.

With the evening getting more chilly by the minute I was glad for the warmth of the crowd as we watched Proteus pass but given my early reservation time of 7:30pm I was only able to watch twenty minutes of Orpheus before making it to my car and taking the GPS guided trip to what may be New Orleans best kept secret – Clancy’s. Arriving just moments after my reservation time I found parking in what appeared to be someone’s front yard and made my way to the comfy looking corner restaurant where I was greeted by a friendly older fellow who confirmed my reservation and led me to a nice two top in the middle of the room – handing me a copy of the hand-written menu I heard the now-familiar “put the bread on ‘em” uttered to one of the ancillary servers as he walked away.

Arriving before the bread I was greeted by my primary server – tuxedo clad, extremely professional, and with a thick southern accent – who explained the nightly specials to me, specifically the daily soup and sweetbreads prep (which unfortunately entailed mustard crusting) and fielded my menu questions. Ordering coffee, a rich blend with a good bouquet of floral and fig tones, to go with the meal I was offered a magazine – the newest issue of Food and Wine – to read while I waited (a nice touch I’d not seen since my visit to The Dining Room in San Francisco.)

Browsing my magazine and sipping my coffee one of the ancillary servers next brought me a loaf of delicate French bread still piping hot from the oven and a half-stick of salted butter. The best French bread of the trip without a doubt I had no difficulty finishing the loaf during the course of the meal and was offered more with my main – an offer which I declined but only with much restraint. Looking around the room I’m pretty sure I was the only non-local in the place and it seemed that even moreso than Brigtsen’s that Clancy’s is a place where the servers know everyone.

Arriving after about twenty minutes was a dish that came highly recommended – the Oysters and Brie. Cornmeal fried, juicy and sweet, the oysters sat atop pan seared crispy spinach and each of the four were topped with a sizable chunk of creamy and tangy Brie. A combination I’d not have thought of personally I was actually quite impressed at how the two main ingredients worked together with each brining out the subtleties of the other without masking their characteristic flavors – it is actually quite surprising more restaurants aren’t pairing this combination.

For my second dish – arriving approximately 10 minutes after I’d finished my Oysters and Brie…more Oysters…this time a half dozen. Served out of their shell and baked in a stainless steel pan the dish contained a 50/50 split of classic Oysters Rockefeller and Oysters with smoked Boudin – both topped with a creamy and buttery hollandaise. Beginning first with the Rock – a good preparation with sweet and salty oysters topped with ample garlic, onion, anise, and spinach mixed with bread crumbs. Moving next to the boudin, imagine the flavor of juicy oysters and spicy pork with a gossamer finish that tasted almost of foie gras…impressive and every bit worth the $13.95 price tag.

When it came to main courses at Clancy’s I was torn – did I want to get a few more appetizers (the crab salad, the shrimp and grits, the eggplant) or did I want to get the duck…at my server’s suggestion I went with the duck. Smoked in house and a very large portion (I’m pretty sure more than 1/2 a duck) I will admit that the Duck itself was phenomenal – it tasted almost akin to smoked pork ribs, but with the characteristic texture of duck and featuring a crispy and sweet skin…beautiful and quite different from any duck I’ve previously had. Where the duck shined its plate-mates unfortunately did not – some decent pan seared vegetables and a boring “out-of-the-bag” pasta with butter and chives – certainly not on par with the sides at Brigtsen’s, NOLA, or CP.

Finishing my duck my server returned and asked if he could tempt me with dessert. No menu available and recited perfectly from memory there were certainly some great choices, albeit no bread pudding. Suggesting the “famous” Lemon Ice Box pie but also praising the house made ice creams, a coconut cream pie, and a butterscotch pudding I decided to go with the Ice Box Pie – even though I don’t love lemons I’d heard good things. Table crumbed and coffee refilled my pie arrived quite quickly and what it lacked in presentation (hey, it’s a piece of pie on a plate) it more than made up for in flavor. Not tart like a standard lemon meringue pie I’m rather certain the secret to this dish was the use of Meyer lemons and balancing them with both gelatin and ice cream. Firm but not hard, cold but not freezing, sweet but balanced, fruity but also vanilla and creamy – very nice and certainly worthy of it’s praise.

Wandering past the bar to visit the restroom I noted a couple of folks dining at the bar while chatting with the bartender and was impressed by how quiet it was – very old school and homey, the kind of place I could imagine someone popping into after work for a drink and some appetizers. Returning to the table I settled the bill with my server and chatted a bit about how I’d heard about their restaurant. On my way out the door I was stopped by the host who thanked me for stopping in and strongly suggested I check out Brigtsen’s if I had the time – he was quite impressed when I told him I had. Requesting a copy of the menu he was very happy to pass it along and wished me a Happy Mardi Gras. Excellent down to earth food and excellent down to earth people – Clancy’s is the kind of place I expected to find in New Orleans.

NOLA, New Orleans LA

…so it turns out I’m one of the few gourmands who loves Emeril Lagasse…to quote Kurt Vonnegut, “So it goes.” In reality my love of the “BAM” dates back to late 2002 (before I started this blog and before I had the money and inclination to go to places like Alinea or Per Se) when I took my mother to his Orlando restaurant as a Thank You for helping me with my medical school applications. Without overstating I can honestly say that it was my first experience with “fine dining” and it opened my eyes to what food and a dining “experience” could be. Since that visit I’ve been back to the eponymous Orlando restaurant as well as Tchoup Chop, Table 10, Delmonico Las Vegas, and the Fish House and liked or loved the experience at each.

Coming to New Orleans I have to say I was a bit disappointed that I’d not be able to experience Chef Lagasse’s first restaurant because of its location along the Mardi Gras Parade route but was relieved to know that not only would NOLA be open, but that they’d also be glad to prepare anything I desired off the dinner menu at lunch when I queried them via phone after making reservations. Arriving a couple minutes late for my lunch reservation (I got caught up talking Bread Pudding with the lady at the culinary school next door) I was greeted pleasantly by both a male and female at the hostess table and was told it would be “a couple of moments” before my table was ready. Standing aside I took in the unique scenery and action in the kitchen for about 3 minutes before I was escorted via elevator to the second floor where I was given an excellent table in the middle of the room.

Greeted promptly by my server, a young African American fellow who introduced himself and the rest of the team I was offered a cocktail (again I declined) and handed a copy of the menu. Selecting tap water and coffee to go with my meal he next explained the daily specials and when I asked if the dinner menu could be accommodated he said he’d check with the kitchen…and returned in 2 minutes to say that it wouldn’t be a problem at all. Pleasant, conversive, and professional without being snooty I personally loved the service at NOLA and would go so far as to say that my server could easily fit in with the folks at Camellia Grill but also could have brought a bit of personality to the team at Restaurant August equally well – no easy task.

Orders placed I sat and browsed the interesting layout of the restaurant – open ceilings, stone walls, plenty of unique art while also marveling at the overall noise level of the restaurant – energetic and lively without being downright loud or annoying…sort of like Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill or Batali’s Babbo for those who’ve been.

Arriving shortly after my coffee – a bold French blend, the kind that isn’t “memorable” but works with everything due to its low acidity – I received something unexpected…bread that wasn’t just a standard loaf of French. Two small rolls served with a complex and sweet unsalted butter, the first a tasty green onion butter roll and the second a beautiful jalapeno cornbread with just a bit of spice, I have to say I quite liked the variation and found the cornbread to be one of the best I’ve had in quite some time…if I had but one complaint it would be that the rolls were so small and refills were hard to get because everyone was requesting more.

My first dish of the meal was the NOLA Gumbo of the day – chicken andouille, shrimp, and lump crab. Featuring a thick and spicy roux with plenty of shrimp, sausage, okra, and celery I was very impressed by the minimal amount of rice and “filler” but also felt that perhaps a little more file would have been ideal as the dish was soupier than I’d have preferred. Good, but lacking that “stick to your ribs” quality of Mr. B’s.

My second dish, a main course from the dinner menu, was Hickory-Roasted Duck with Whiskey-Caramel Glaze, Buttermilk Cornbread Pudding, Haricot Verts, Fire Roasted Corn Salad, Natural Jus and Candied Pecans. Never one to lack for ingredients on a single plate I can say without a doubt that this was (by far) the best Duck of my trip to New Orleans – and the accompanying items were pretty superb too. Featuring a bone-in half duck perfectly roasted medium and with skin smooth, sweet, and crisp-yet-supple…potentially the best duck I’ve ever had. Lying beneath the fowl was a sweet yet buttermilk-sour cornbread pudding similar to the coush-coush at CP, snappy and sweet Haricot Verts, and a smoky yet sweet roasted corn salad. An enormous portion for $28 this item is clearly better served as a dinner selection, but for the glutton who is trying to make the very most of his or her New Orleans dining experience it makes a sublime lunch, as well.

Following the duck and some more coffee I watched my neighbor eat the chicken and waffles – it looked fantastic. I also made a difficult decision. You see, at each of Emeril’s other restaurants I ordered the bread pudding and was quite impressed by all but one…but the bread pudding du jour at NOLA was chocolate and raspberry with creole cream cheese while one of the alternatives was a dish with French Toast, ice cream, bananas, cinnamon, and bacon…the bread pudding didn’t stand a chance. Arriving piping hot with the ice cream slowly melting and soaking the bread, Cinnamon Pain Perdu with Sautéed Bananas, Drunken Monkey Ice Cream and Brown Sugar Bacon was a showstopper – an absolute must order. Crispy and sweet French Toast, Caramelized Bananas, the Bourbon punch of the banana laden ice cream, and the savory bacon…for some it may have been sugar overload but for me it was the kind of dish I’ll crave every time I think of a Banana for some time.

Quite stuffed and planning to go catch some Jazz at the Lundi Gras Celebration on the river I was asked if I’d like a cup of coffee to go – a nice touch that I gladly agreed to. Paying the modest bill and thanking my servers for a wonderful experience I made my way down to the elevator, through the still present (and seemingly never shrinking) crowd, and to the streets. While some “foodies” shy away from celebrity chefs like Legasse, Puck, Batali, etc claiming that the restaurants are all marketing and the chefs are largely disconnected I personally am of the opinion that great food is great food and great service is great service – if a restaurant can provide me with those two things I don’t mind if the chef spends more time at a TV studio than in the kitchen, he is clearly hiring the right people to carry forth his vision.