Le Regalade St-Honore, Paris France

After feasting at Michel Rostang for lunch and spending a long afternoon shopping it off at Printemps and walking it off at Centre Pompidou our dinner on Friday would remain in the 1st Arrondissement at yet another member of Paris’ Bistronomic movement; this time at the second iteration of Bruno Doucet’s famous La Régalade. Having initially considered the original location in the 14th but eventually opting on the Saint-Honoré setting based on recent reviews, location, and the fact that Doucet was spending less and less time at the original it was with minimal difficulty that we found the small storefront and having opted for the “early” seating at 7:30 when we called to make reservations a month prior it was no surprise that when we arrived the space was nearly vacant allowing for a swift greeting by one of four young females circulating the small room.

With reservations confirmed and coats hung along the wall we were led to a small wooden two-top midway along the wall looking into the small kitchen and moments later menus were presented and chalk-board specials described. With service certainly more abrupt than other meals on our trip I will note that our server, a cute British lass fluent in both French and English, was excellent throughout although the tag-team style of service did at one point lead to a substantial delay in refilling our carafe de l’eau. Left to explore the menu and browse the room it would be little time before decisions were made and although as it turned out Doucet was out of town and cooking at neither Régalade that night the meal that followed would represent the best “bang for the buck” we found in Paris.

With the 30-seats all packed by 8:00pm and the noise level steadily increasing to something between a hum and a buzz as we watched the young team work frenetically yet quietly in the open kitchen gleaming with copper pots and all sorts of shiny pipes and gadgets the first item to arrive at our table was the complimentary loaf pan containing the night’s “terrine du porc, veau, et canard” with a jar of cornichons and freshly sliced baguette. Instructed to “enjoy as much as you like” I’m rather certain that our server did not expect two diners of our size “enjoy” the whole thing, but with slice after slice full of meaty flavor and heavy aromatics including onion, pepper, garlic, coriander, paprika, and more it was hard to stop. While the entirety of the composition was not quite as complex or smooth as that at L’Ami Jean, the more charred top layer was absolutely fantastic and when paired with the warm baguette and semi-sweet cornichons it was a great start.

Eschewing the up-charged nightly specials as most were beef based our 33Eu three-course journey would begin perhaps twenty-five minues after seating with “Gambas sautees ail et persil, jambon d’Espagne, risotto cremeux a l’encre de seiche” for my sister. Served in a large both of impressive depth and vastly larger than one would expect for an entrée the base of this dish was an intense creamy risotto tinged with squid ink yet still maintaining its nutty essence topped with an admixture of chopped prawns sautéed in garlic and parsley and crisp cracklins’ of Spainish ham. Certainly more “Pan-European” than strictly French the quality of the risotto itself was one of the best I’ve ever tasted and while the garlic prawns may have been just a bit “too garlic” for my tastes they certainly did not obscure the flavor profile of the other ingredients leading to a plate my sister considered one of the best of the trip.

For my entrée the day’s selection would be one of my favorite foods in one of my favorite styles of presentation – “Oeuf de poule bio facon cocotte, epinard, pointes d’asperges et tomates confites.” Delivered in a screw-top glass jar and popped open tableside with the warning that it was very hot, this bubbly soup of poached organic egg in “casserole” was the very picture of early spring. With the smooth and creamy egg plus sautéed spinach forming the backdrop of flavors and crisp snappy asparagus speckling the each spoonful, the most interesting component of this dish was actually the duck fat confit tomatoes – intensely sweet and slightly leathery in texture providing juxtaposition to the otherwise vegetal and subdued flavor profile.

With entrees cleared the plats would arrive quickly on their heels as the steady stream of plates from such a small kitchen was a sight to behold. For my sister’s selection, “Filet de dorade dries sauvage a la plancha, legumes fins et croquants a l’huile d’olive, emulsion a la coriander et au gingembre” featured an imposing fillet of slightly over-cooked grilled sea bream that none the less flaked apart nicely and had a great flavor. Topped with bitter greens and resting on a bed of pine nuts and snappy vegetables including tomatoes, peppers, asparagus, and zucchini poached in olive oil the dish was finished with an aromatic sauce of coriander and ginger that although tasty was also slightly overwhelming of the fish.

For my main course the selection was easy – I simply can’t turn down duck and although “Margret de canard epais roti sur la peau, petites pommes de terres roties au jus de viande” was perhaps the most straight forward item on the menu it was also very well done. Yet another sizeable portion with the honey lacquered skin fatty and supple and the flesh pink and moist the flavor of the duck was quite good while the roasted fingerling potatoes intermingled with fibrous mushrooms in beefy gravy were a nice savory contrast. While I generally prefer the skin slightly more crisp than this presentation I had to tip my hat to the chef as the quality of this particular duck was actually quite distinctive and less oily than I’d expected and as such despite the skin being slightly “tough” the preparation preserved the quality of the flesh.

With our plats cleared it would take perhaps twenty minutes for desserts to arrive largely because of my selection; just when you thought my soufflé fix would have been satisfied by the double header at Rostang, Le Regalade offered a version of their own entitled “Souffle chaud au Grand Marnier.” For the third time following the assumption that if a little is good a lot is better, this towering soufflé arrived tall and teetering, a mountain of white topped with a snowfall of confectioners’ sugar. Simple, sweet, steaming hot, and punchy with notes of cognac and orange it was a classic done well and compared to previous experiences with Gran Marnier soufflés it was understated – a good thing for someone who doesn’t fancy too boozy a preparation.

Furthering her newfound love of Rice Pudding that began at L’Ami Jean, Erika’s dessert selection arrived in a latched jar and although I cannot be certain my gestalt is that pound for pound the portion may have actually trumped even that served to us by Jego. Titled “Riz cuit au lait et a la vanilla comme le faisait ma grand-mere, caramel laitier,” and served with a liquid salty caramel so buttery that it put those at Jacques Genin to shame, the pudding itself was thick, toothsome, rich, and heavily accented with vanilla. Again with the wooden spoon working slowly it was once again to our waitress’ surprise when she arrived later to find the jar empty and both of us smiling in a near comatose state. To be completely honest I can’t say whether the pudding at Jean or Regalade was better – but I’d gladly do a blind taste test again if only to have another chance to taste both once more.

Sitting and chatting (and trying to digest all those carbohydrates) after declining coffee it is notable that the tables seated to our left and right had both already settled their bills and been once again filled as a small line was developing in the street despite being 9:30 – even after eight days in town it still amused us how late Parisians choose to dine. With the bill requested, delivered, and settled our last bites of the meal would be a pair of perfect golden Madelines – warm and slightly tinged with lemon – a textbook ending befitting such a lovely day.

Making our way from Le Regalade St. Honore into a throng of Parisian youths out celebrating the impending weekend it was a quick walk to the Metro and with both of us quite stuffed I was glad to have my sister along as I fell asleep not once, but twice en route back to our apartment and with a mere 30 hours left on our trip I slept like a log for the first time in ove r a week. Having dined at five of the more notable “bistronomic” restaurants in Paris I can say without doubt that Le Regalade St-Honore was at least on par with Chez L’Ami Jean on that particular evening in terms of fun and while the food was not quite as careful or soulful at times, once you take into account price and ‘experience’ this is a spot well worth the reservation as the chef’s seasonal focus, liberal portions, and inspired flavors should command at least twice the 33Eu prix fixe.

L'Astrance, Paris France

I was stunned – baffled even – the wind entirely removed from my sails; how could such a highly regarded establishment have failed to impress? With the Michelin 3-Star location previously ranking as number two on my list of “must visit” restaurants worldwide I originally thought that perhaps this was simply a case inflated expectations but no matter how I tried I couldn’t create a scenario where this was the case. “The Emperor’s New Clothes,” an idiom my friend and dining partner uses to describe restaurants where he feels many ‘pretend’ to understand the hype but where he fails to see what all the fuss is about sprung to mind – and then he said those exact words as we emerged from L’Astrance at the end of dinner on April the 13th, 2011.

Sure I’d read some mixed things about Chef Barbot’s small restaurant in the 16th – the difficult reservations (less than 180 diners a week,) the casual service (at times even aloof,) the controversially rapid ascent to three stars, and the fact that the chef’s-whimsy menu was oft speckled with duds amongst the brilliance…but honestly they were all risks I was willing to take because I’d heard that when the brilliance shined it was perhaps the brightest in modern East/West and Modern/Classic fusion today…and of courseenlisting the help of a Parisian familiar with the restaurant’s rather obscure did not hurt our chances, either.

With my sister once again opting to retire early for the evening it was with little effort that I found L’Astrance – as a matter of fact I arrived a full hour early to realize there wasn’t much else to do in the area and as such climbed the large stone staircase at the end of the street to explore the neighborhood until the restaurant opened its doors. Still arriving slightly early for our 8:30pm seating I was greeted at the door by Christophe Rohat and with the reservation confirmed was led to one of the two-tops along the wall – a large well-spaced table with two hand blown glass chargers, a thick white tablecloth, and fourstemmed glasses already in waiting. Greeted pleasantly by our server, a young man perhaps of twenty-five, I was offered water and on selecting still was left to browse the room until my friend arrived – a room that would eventually fill to capacity including a trio sitting at a four-top with their Chihuahua (something I’d have never expected even at a Michelin 1-Star in the United States.)

With my friend’s timing impeccable I spent perhaps 10 minutes at the table until he walked in the door at 8:30 sharp and all in all I must say the precise minimalism of L’Astrance is something to behold. With bare floors, goldenrod leather seating, high ceilings and plenty of mirrors the room is fancy without being stuffy and the small flowers in black stone vases add just a touch of softness to the otherwise hard lines, woods, and chrome. With my friend seated it would be a matter of moments before our server would return, confirm his water choice of sparkling, and present us with menus at the wine list. With myself not drinking my friend selected a red and a white to be paired with the appropriate courses and selecting the “menu Astrance” without restrictions we began.

With the dog table, the table to my left, and the table behind my friend already started and the table to my right receiving courses nearly simultaneously to us the first course of the evening was one of the few I’ve noted to be repeated in the experiences I’ve read from L’Astrance – an amuse of “Brioche with black truffle and parmesan butter and Marzipan wafers with apple gelee.” With the first buttery and savory as the perfume of truffle filled the palate and the second crisp and slightly sour with a smooth linger of almond these were nicely conceived and a welcomed starter.

With the slate (literally) cleared the next item to arrive at our table – a slightly sourdough flavored brown bread from Poujauran with salty Echire butter and extra fleur de sel – would also arrive with the first mistake of the evening as our server filled my friend’s sparking water with my still – a mistake that would actually happen twice and although harmless went without apology, merely replacement.

The second amuse of the evening, served shortly after our bread, was a double shot glass with three layers described as “Broccoli Veloute with Mustard Cream and Passion Fruit Foam.” Pairing my favorite vegetable with my least favorite condiment and one of my less preferred fruits I have to admit I did not have high hopes going in and much to my disappointment my fears were realized as nothing in this dish worked for me, not even the broccoli. While it is true that people less put off my mustard may have gotten a little more mileage out of this dish I simply do not see how bitter, acidic, and pudding-thick would ever “work.”

With an entire slice of bread and butter plus a glass of water cleansing my palate of the previous disaster the first proper course of our meal was Barbot’s most famous – the Parisian Mushroom Galette with Foie Gras, Apple, Hazelnut Oil, Lemon Cream, and Violet – yet despite the gorgeous presentation and large portion I was somewhat underwhelmed by the flavor. Sure the sweet pastry base topped with at least twenty layers of mandolined fungi, two thick layers of creamy foie gras, and a touch of razor
thin apple was a textural masterpiece and the very definition of the Chef’s focus on minimally manipulated ingredients, but the flavor was largely just mushroom and a hint of liver with the apple nearly undetectable, especially when paired with either of the sauces – and it was here that I started to
worry.

With the foie gras enjoyed but myself not yet feeling the sense of excitement I’d expected from an entirely spontaneous menu our next course would certainly deliver in the flavor department. Described as “Kombu, Yuzu, Scallop, Oyster, Oyster Leaf, and Crème Fraiche” this frothy soup was parts creamy and parts vegetal, parts briny and parts sweet, and each ingredient was flawless – particularly the nearly raw scallop and lightly poached oyster. Where the dish failed, however, was the manner of its construction – the Kombu an overly reduced paste and the yuzu a large slice, neither of which could be mixed with the other ingredients thus leading to one bite so saline that it could barely be swallowed and another tear-jerkingly tart.

Already noting Barbot’s affinity for acid and citrus it was no surprise that it would arrive once again in the next dish, but thankfully on this occasion it was done right. Described as “Spinach, Bergamot, Asparagus, Candied nuts, John Dory, Lemon, Curry” I’ll first note that the fish, my favorite, was flawless – slightly crispy on the exterior but moist and textural within while the smooth curry sauce lent a lovely aromatic touch to both it and the snappy curry-dusted asparagus alongside. With each bite of the asparagus slightly different due to the numerous constituents topping it, additional fun bites were found the intensely vegetal quenelle of spinach and a curl of candied lemon around bergamot scented cream.

Again showing an adept hand with fish and seafood the next dish was the best of the group even though it was once more an exercise in “which ingredient doesn’t belong?” Titled “Mackerel, Miso, Daikon, Meyer Lemon, Sardine, Buckwheat, Leek” and accompanied by a cup of “Smoked Anchovy, Creamy Rocket Veloute, and Frangelico” the answer to the question was Meyer Lemon – an ingredient I’m rather certain is not native to France, and thankfully an ingredient that was easily pushed aside. With the Mackerel actually glazed in Miso before being seared with the scale side down and then coated with buckwheat I can honestly say this was the best Mackerel I’ve ever had – a small portion, but a stunning one. Moving on to the soup – I only wish Barbot had used citrus like he did alcohol because although I have no idea how he thought to pair spicy arugula, fragrant Frangelico, and Anchovy I’m glad he did as each unique flavor seemed to balance the others into something wholly delicious.

Our fifth proper course of the evening would be the best that we would receive – a dish stated to be Guinea Fowl, Onion stuffing, Vin Jaune, Morel, Cabbage, and Comte sauce. Beginning with two rounds of the buttery smooth fowl – one breast and one leg – with a rich onion, wine, and oyster stuffing beneath the skin the bird itself was phenomenal and the plating a sight to behold. Not to be outdone, resting beneath the protein were a pair of opposites – large earthy morels piped full of a creamy cabbage puree and a roll of cabbage stuffed with chopped morels – both lovely and the whole plate all the better with an ethereal savory comte foam.

Having watched the earlier tables around us receive their dishes I was excited for the next course – a scarlet game bird that looked to be pigeon…unfortunately that course would never arrive and instead our next plate would be the plate that followed the pigeon for our neighbors – a “Tasting of lamb” with saddle, belly, confit of leg, and kidney plated with a quenelle of eggplant and licorice, green olive, miso, and mushroom jus. A veritable gout attack on a plate following the foie gras, sardines, etc this was actually my first time experiencing lamb kidney and although quite smooth and tasty it was my least preferred of the degustation as all the other portions were shining examples of young lamb done right. With the entirety of the plate quite savory and even the licorice and olive relatively muted it was again here that Barbot showed a great deal of restraint that I wish we’d have seen with the earlier
citrus.

With both myself and my dining partner wondering what would come next and hoping for the pigeon our wishes were unfulfilled as the next course would be the night’s palate cleanser – a tasty and spicy sorbet of Lemongrass, chili pepper, and ginger. Inquiring from our server what the bird course was and what menu it was a part of we were merely told “the menu is different for everyone” and when we persisted and asked if it could be ordered we were simply dismissed with the same answer. Rather annoyed at this point by the intentionally vague answer more fuel was added to the fire as the couple to our left, the dog table, and one other received Barbot’s famous “surprise” dish - Mousse de Pomme de Terre – while my table and the couple to the right were again ignored.

For dessert, the collection would arrive as a trio – each unique, light, and tasty but only one truly memorable. Beginning first with a flat panna cotta of Rhubarb Compote with Pineapple and Rice Cracker the concept seemed similar to that of a crème brulee without the blowtorch and the sweet fruits balanced nicely beneath the crunchy cracker.

The second dessert, favored by my friend but largely underwhelming me due to my generally blasé feelings for passion fruit, was Passion Fruit Mousse in a Tart with Green Tea. Another extremely light presentation with the grassy matcha acting to even out the tooth-aching sweet mousse I actually enjoyed the tart – I only wish a different fruit would have been featured as its filling.

The final dessert, the least composed and most tasty, was Orange and Honey Ice Cream with Pistachio Cream and Shortbread – light and creamy, sweet but balanced by the buttery shortbread – and that Pistachio cream…it was potentially the best pastry cream I tasted in all of Paris.

Still sore about the pigeon and the mousse I’m rather certain the mood was palpable as the final bites of the meal were delivered rather coolly but with ample description – the first a pairing of Sticky yet delectable Chestnut Honey Madelines and a plate of fresh fruits including Dates, Pineapple, Mango, and Grapes and the second a Jasmine Eggnog served in an eggshell – a flavor I found cloying and my friend compared to the smell of a urinal cake.

With the bill settled, bag collected, and a copy of the menu requested it was not long before we found ourselves back on the Rue Beethoven just five minutes after 11:00pm. Having already noted my friend’s comments about the Emperor’s New Clothes with regard to not understanding the hype I will expound further and say that I actually DO understand the hype as the food can occasionally be brilliant. What I don’t understand is the restaurant’s attitude – serving whatever it wants to whomever it wants, placing eccentric and contradictory ingredients in places they never belonged – it is like they are unapologetically experimenting at the customer’s expense while treating the diner as though it is a privilege to act as a guinea pig. Who knows – perhaps I caught them on a bad night – but considering my previous three-star experiences both in Paris and Stateside there was simply no excuse for some of the dishes we were served…or the ones we weren’t served. Then again, I guess L’Astrance never offered an excuse and all things considering I imagine it never does – you’re paying for them to do whatever they want.

Le Cinq, Paris France

“You’ve never seen a room like it” said one friend. “The service is the best I’ve ever experienced” said another. “Éric Briffard should have three stars – he should have had it a year” said yet another. With these statements in mind and Saturday lunch service it wasn’t a question of if we should visit Le Cinq at The George V during our trip to Paris – it was a question of which Saturday was a better fit for our schedule. As a part of the Four Seasons group reservations were simple – a quick call to their central office provided me with an e-mail and within forty-five minutes of sending the original E-mail I received a call from the Paris concierge to set up lunch for two at 12:30 on April the 9th 2011.

Arrving arrived in Paris a mere 24-hours earlier and having already enjoyed two solid meals, morning pastries from Laduree, and a morning walk through the Jardins des Tuileries plus some shopping on the Champs-Élysées our arrival at The George V was timely despite the construction – as a matter of fact we were early and after making our way past a Maybach, a Rolls Royce, and an Aston-Martin Vanquish we found ourselves in the large central lobby currently being detailed with mirrored boxes and large vases of ornate flowers. Greeted first by the doorman and then by an attendant in the lobby we stated our business and were directed to the restaurant, stopping along the way to browse the art, jewelry, and small indoor café full of lounging guests, their families, and even their well outfitted canines.

Making our way to the doors of the restaurant we were greeted en route and walked the last twenty feet – my bag was taken and stored before I even knew what happened and upon stating our name the service captain responded with “Yes, of course, from Ohio – how was your flight?” Appropriately impressed and chatting as we made our way through the glorious baroque dining room my very first thought echoed the comments of my friend – I’d never seen a room like it – intricate molding, floor to ceiling windows, oil paintings, and gold leaf, crystal and silver aplenty. With chairs pulled out in synchrony and seated on pillow soft chairs at a two top large enough for four our comfort was assured and a purse stool appeared for my sister’s bag…the service, too, lived up to the hype – a well oiled machine meant to make you feel like royalty.

With our meal already discussed with the Maitre D’ via E-mail prior to our arrival the selections were confirmed – the three course weekly lunch for Erika and the “Spring Menu” for myself – and within moments the chariot of champagne and caviar arrived tableside, a nice touch which we politely declined instead opting for a bottle of still water. After this our captain would stop by again to chat, ask about any dietary restrictions, and make a few additional offers and suggestions.

With water poured and a handful of rose petals added to the table the first bites would arrive quickly – a large basket of tempura fried Shrimp and Calamari spritzed with lemon oil and served with tiny tridents – a unique way to start a meal and apparently a customary opening volley at Le Cinq that was excellent, particularly the crisp yet supple calamari.

Moving on, our next taste of Le Cinq was rather unlike anything I’ve ever seen – a single slice of white bread served with olive oil. With it explain that this single slice of bread was made with the “utmost care to be entirely flavorless” so that we could “experience” the 2010 Frantoi Cutrera Primo Olive Oil all I could do was chuckle – something so small, yet clearly intended to wow…sure it was good and the oil impressively fruity – but more than the flavor it was the gesture… all these little flourishes that would keep happening all afternoon.

Speaking of tasty carbohydrates, aside from that first slice of bread there was nothing flavorless about Le Cinq’s house made bread selection – as a matter of fact, it was my second favorite bread selection of the trip with a basket consisting of Country, Baguette, Brioche, Tomato, and 7-Grain – all tasty, but all the more so due to the butter – two large cones that arrived covered in glass; one a sweet butter from Brenton and the other a savory Seaweed Butter that required replenishment late in the meal (yes we ate that much butter and yes it was worth every calorie.)

Munching on the bread, at this point a lovely curl of tomato brioche, it was perhaps thirty minutes into service before our trio of amuses arrived – from left to right a Lemongrass Shrimp with Cauliflower, a gelee of Carrot with Ginger and Hibiscus, and the Tempurad head of the shrimp. Instructed to enjoy the plate from left to right each bite was impressive – the first sour and snappy, the second sweet and smooth, the last crunchy and savory – a suitable troika that primed the palate.

With the proper menu beginning and Erika ordering a three course menu while I opted for seven I will note that timing could not have been handled better – as a matter of fact, our server even included her in the cheese course and provided a second small dessert to help even things out…just another one of those “little things.” Keeping with that topic, Erika’s first selection would be a quartet of little things entitled “Sardines from Saint-Gilles-Croix-De-Vie – tartar, grilled, tempura, raw in asparagus flan.” An unexpected selection but based on two positive experiences with the fish the day prior the three plates were all exquisitely presented and each flavor distinctly different; some focusing on texture while others on taste. I particularly enjoyed the bite raw bite with garlic croutons and a creamy asparagus flan.

For my first course the kitchen deftly showed its hand with Japanese presentations in delivering Toro Tartar with Green apple Gelee, Pea, Caviar, and Fresh Wasabi. Neglecting the wasabi and focusing strictly on the fish, a pylon shaped ounce or two topped with a pyramid of briny fish eggs, this was a nicely cleaned and presented tartar with the fish eggs providing plenty of accent, but what truly stood out about the dish was actually the impressively sweet double shucked peas – nearly raw in texture and quite unlike the way we see peas served in the United States.

For my second course, now three out of three, I would see more of that wonderful French asparagus – this time “Green Asparagus from Luberon rapidly cooked in olive oil with gnocchi, chives, and pork jus” plus a side plate of Matcha Tea Frozen yogurt, Asparagus sorbet, and Lemon brioche. Thick and snappy the Asparagus quality was perhaps the best of the trip while the solo gnocchi was a flawless pillow that simply made me wish for more. With the first plate rather traditional, the more interesting part of this dish was the side – an intensely bitter yet vegetal frozen yogurt topped with creamy sorbet that truly did taste like a 50/50 admixture of sugar and the essence of Asparagus. As for the golden brioche – tasty and sweet…plus an excuse to eat more of the Brenton butter.

With the course cleared our captain would arrive tableside with a Polaroid camera to snap a picture “for his collection” – a picture later delivered in a classy George V envelope to take home as a souvenir – yet another nice touch. On the heels of this gesture, however, would be an even nicer touch – two of the ten best things I tasted in Paris served simultaneously; the first being Duck Foie Gras from the Landes Region with Sarawak Pepper Roast, Rhubarb, Strawberries from a Provencal Garden, and Elderberry Juice. Always a fan of cold Foie Gras preparations as compared to warm this dish was an eye opener and every bit on par with the my favorite seared version of all time at L2o. Described as first roasted and then lightly seared the liver itself was so smooth and supple that it barely held its form, instead melting into a luscious pool and melding with the fruit juices while the pepper added a note of spice serving to contrast the sweetness of the strawberry.

Nearly as impressive and much less expected than my course was Erika’s “Rex Rabbit from Poitou Region cooked with squid and served as rib rack, loin, breast alongside bayaldi of vegetables, muscadet wine gravy, anchovies, and peas.” With the rabbit prepared medium and impressively nutty each of the variations was tasty, particularly the panko dusted rack while each accoutrement lent something different, a new angle of exploration that kept the large plate interesting from start to finish. Rustic yet refined it was this dish amongst all the others that truly showed off Briffard’s talents to me – a complex landscape of flavors and textures that moved you away from the center but then brought you back without ever truly losing focus.

Sharing the rabbit across the table and making a mess of the linen (which my sister jokingly pointed out to our server) the next thing to arrive at our table was a cover-up table cloth – and rose petals jokingly arranged to cover the corners – and after that was my “Blue Lobster Pot roasted in Baby Garlic, Freshly Squeezed Pinot Noir grape Jus, Confit Pork Belly, Lobster Stuffed Morels and Crunchy Cabbage with Ginger.” It was an embarrassment of riches in all the right ways. Having experienced Brittany Blue only once in the past – ironically then also paired with cabbage and ginger this dish – this dish was another outstanding exploration of various themes on one plate and again each lent something of its own without compromising the others or becoming too “busy.” With the lobster easily cut with the edge of a fork and more buttery than garlic the morels were actually the standout of this dish – stuffed with a lobster sausage mixed with what I believe was aged cheese…both would go beautifully with the jus. Additionally impressive was the cabbage – not crispy itself, but buttery and mixed with crisp ginger revitalizing the palate with each bite.

Resisting the urge to wipe the plate clean with bread (besides, there was butter left) our plates were collected and our captain stopped by to suggest my sister also take some cheese “on the house” and with that the cart arrived. Featuring a well culled selection of approximately twenty cheeses each was described at length and after much discussion we decided to allow our server to make the selections – amongst them a nutty Mimolette and 2-year aged Comte, more pungent Epoisse and Bleu de sauvignon, plus a triple cream Brie, Camembert, and two goat cheeses. Accompanying the cheese would be Country Walnut Bread and Apricot Date Bread…they should sell the Apricot bread by the loaf.

Before our palate cleanser we were first brought an “aperitif” of water. Thinking this odd I listened with interest as our server described the characteristics of the Black Forest Water – an ultra pure zero nitrate mineral water from the North of France that was purportedly the best in Paris. Cracking open a fresh bottle I found it perplexing that they would serve this for free while charging for the bottled water service during the meal, but regardless it really was quite flavorless, ice cold, and yet another of those little moments that stand out.

Still sipping our “super water” the next item to arrive was a flavorful warm Green tea Madeline served alongside Salted cream cheese Ice Cream coated with Gold leaf and drizzled with honey soaked citrus – a tasty and attractive bite equal parts sweet, sour, and salty.

Moving on to the proper desserts I will first note that our server offered to gift Erika both desserts on my tasting menu but she declined as she had her heart set on the Wild Strawberry Napoleon Pie with light cream, citrus fruits, white cheese sorbet, and strawberry gelato. Served as a three layer Mille Feuille with crispy pastry divided by layers of fraises des bois and a zesty light cream the pastry itself was flawless, shattering on light pressure and sweet without being overly so. Seated along the pastry was another crisp layer, this time circular and stuffed with a mascarpone textured sorbet dotted with yuzu and topped with creamy strawberry gelato. As an additional bonus, along with my second dessert she would be presented with a bowl of fraises des bois topped with fluffy whipped cream and shavings of white chocolate “because one can never get enough strawberry at springtime in Paris.”

For my first dessert at Le Cinq I was treated to a large cocktail glass described on the menu as “Red Fruit Cocktail with Hibiscus Jelly, Basil Froth.” In reality the “red fruits” would consist of at least five – standard large strawberries, fraises des bois, raspberries, currants, and pomegranate – resting in an aromatic mélange of their juices and topped with a strawberry sorbet champagne cream touched with basil. With all the fruits as ripe and tasty as expected the most impressive aspect of this dish was the smell – like walking in an early summer garden.

With the table next to us ordering the flaming omelette à la norvégienne we were treated to a show while we waited for the second desserts, but once mine arrived the show was squarely on the plate in the form of the “After Eight Chocolate Bar, Peppermint Granita.” Served elegantly with seven variations of chocolate including the crispy base the dish was beautiful and dotted with spots of menthol that acted largely as an accent, not overwhelming as mint can tend to be. Creamy and crunchy with oodles of nuance the dish was additionally playful with the addition of pop-rocks to the center layer adding a totally unexpected surprise.

Beyond content our final treat of the afternoon would prove to be the gift that kept on giving – a mignardise cart with no less than twenty options ranging from strawberry macarons every bit as good as those at Laduree, blackberry opera cakes, chewy nougat, nearly perfect Canele, five types of caramels, pistachio bark, vanilla marshmallows, lemon tarts with fraises des bois, chocolate tarts with almond, and 10 assorted Chocolates (both dark and light.) First offered “as many as you like” and then later recommended to try most of what we hadn’t received with the first round all we could do was accept graciously – and even after that they packed up two small boxes of 5 caramels each for us to enjoy later on.

Sitting back to bask in the glory of the past three hours (and to digest such an amazing meal) we watched a party of eight ask to enjoy their mignardises and coffee out on the terrace – an offer that was met by the captain first going out and setting an entire table with plates, crystal, and sliver before plating a large platter of choices and walking them out into the sun. On his return we requested our bill – one tasting, one lunch tasting, one bottle of water despite all the extras – and on paying were walked to the front of the restaurant where he suggested another photo using my camera and presented me with a copy of the menu before bidding us farewell.

In the end how do you sum up such an experience? Simply. My friends were right.