The Refectory [2], Columbus Ohio

With the closing of Handke’s and Rosendales it is in my (not so humble) opinion that there remains only one option for a truly great/opulent meal in Columbus, Ohio – The Refectory. Sure M and Alana’s are nice, but their preps and platings aren’t anything to write home about. Sure Luce and Rigsby’s are great, but the setting and service won’t turn heads. Actually, having dined at myriad Michelin Starred restaurants in the past few years I can most definitely say that only The Refectory and perhaps Kihachi or the Worthington Inn would stand up to such scrutiny in a major US dining market.

Having experienced Kamal’s hospitality and Chef Blondin’s fabulous cooking in the past (http://uhockey.blogspot.com/2008/11/refectory-columbus-ohio.html) I’ll not go into the setting, service, or chef’s pedigree – all are top-of-the-class – but I will note that on this occasion we were celebrating an early Christmas (I’m on-call Christmas day) and the restaurant was not only decorated festively, but also full to capacity with well dressed families and couples while light Christmas music filled the rafters.

Napkins unfolded, waters filled and drinks served (and refilled immediately/repeatedly without request,) we were first brought the night’s amuse and the restaurant’s wonderful house bread. The amuse du jour was a round of creamy brie with rind served cold and topped with a clean olive oil and paired with a chive emulsion and tomatoes. Somewhat smoky, the sweet tomatoes provided a pleasant contrast to the creamy and nutty cheese while the chives added a bit of spice – very nice. Spreading the cheese on a piece of the superb (and warm) country bread was additionally nice.

Starting next with a first round of appetizers I selected the night’s special – a cold torchon of foie gras served with beet Ribbons, Maple Jus, and tomato. Smooth and unctuous the foie was a fine example – potentially the best I’ve had in Ohio since BoMA closed – and the creamy consistency melded well with the crisp and earthy ribbons of beets. Adding some needed sweetness to the dish were dots of thick and sweet maple syrup, a nice blend but not entirely unexpected. Having had many preps in recent months I can’t say I’d rush out for this foie (unlike their Sweetbreads of last year) but it was certainly serviceable – perhaps a crisp/carb component such as a brioche or baguette would help.

Ordered by my aunt, the lobster timbale with with a saffron mousseline and parmesan tuile, plus chive oil was a very attractive dish (and one she liked a lot) but didn’t really wow me as much as I’d have hoped. With ample pieces of lobster dispersed within the crème fraiche and saffron mousse I just didn’t get a lot of contrast between the components and largely the dish was just an ornate crab/lobster dip that you could buy at Whole Foods.

Trio of Salmon, my sister’s appetizer, was a winner by all accounts and featured Chilled gravalax, creamy mousse, and warm smoked line caught salmon on a single plate. Like most dishes that look to explore a single ingredient in variant forms this dish was small in portions but hefty in potency with each sample serving to highlight the fish – its ability to melt in the mouth with the mousse, its smooth and muscled texture in the smoked form, and its fattiness in the gravalax. Interestingly I felt the gravalax was the strongest option while my sister was impressed most by the warm serving…the mousse certainly wouldn’t have felt out of place next to the table-spread at Le Bernardin, either.

Mom’s appetizer, another cheese option, was roasted goat cheese with beets, shallots and olive oil. Twice as large as I’d have expected for the price I do believe this was the best of the first courses with the creamy goat cheese only lightly pan-kissed to melt the curds together and then gently paired with smooth shallots in olive oil, crisp sweetened beets, a beet puree, and a buttery crostini. Mild and well paired I think doing something akin to this with Humboldt Fog could be the best thing one could ever accomplish with cheese.

After a short wait and a lot of conversation about the year past our second courses came out – plus a spacer plate for Aunt. For the second round my sister and mother both selected a soup – for my mother the tomato lobster bisque and for Erika the mussel soup with white wine and shallots in a saffron cream. Not a big fan of tomato soups in general I felt that bisque was good for a non-butter version, but that the sweet lobster was largely overwhelmed by the acidity of the tomatoes – a bite was enough. With regard to the mussel soup I was first impressed by the sheer number of mussels in the broth and then after a taste I was even more impressed. At first touch to the tongue I have to admit I was a bit shocked by how heavy the alcohol flavors came forth, but as the amalgam sat in my mouth I realized that the base notes were where the nuance hid – brine, pungency, even a bit of sweetness came through with a subsequent bite and the creamy texture was very nice.

For myself, continuing the foul theme of the evening, dish two consisted of a pheasant terrine with apple wood smoked bacon and roasted hazelnuts, sour cherries in brandy, and a fanned cornichon. Garnished again with chive oil the terrine itself was flawlessly smoky with the gaminess of the pheasant mingling pleasantly with the saltiness of the bacon. Further enhanced with brandy, hazelnuts, and chopped pickle in the terrine itself my sister compared the flavor favorably to old-fashioned loaf – and placing some on a slice of bread with a brandied cherry made for an excellent bistro style sandwich.

Following our appetizers, just like our previous visit, was the nightly palate cleanser – this time a white peach sorbet. My favorite fruit by a long shot, this sorbet had no chance to fail and it was fabulous – the very essence of a fresh white peach…in December, no less.

After more talk (most notable for my mother’s comments on how much she likes dining with me because it makes her remember how good food can be and how nice a quiet restaurant is) our mains arrived – three menu items and one of the nightly specials. For my sister, Steamed Dover Sole with a lobster suprème sauce and fresh pepper linguini – the weakest of the mains (and that is saying something.) Sweet and moist, flawlessly steamed with the bare minimum of cooking to melt the sinew, the fish itself was flawless despite its lack of textural variance. Paired with the pepper linguini, a tomato stuffed with ground capers, and asparagus my only “issue” with this dish is actually the sauce which was buttery and succulent, but too heavy and too generous a portion for such a delicate fish.

The second dish, my mother’s Duroc Pork Loin with Spinach Spatzle, Steamed Bosc Pear, carrots, and asparagus was divine. Savory melt-in-the-mouth pork, rich vegetal noodles, an invariably sweet pear stuffed with cranberry chutney, and crisp vegetables all paired well with the salty pork reduction to form one of those rare dishes where each bite was an experiment in mixing different components to form a new flavor, texture, taste, and experience. While I don’t tend to order pork when I go out I have to say that each of the past times I’ve been out with my mother I’ve been impressed with her selections – pig based almost every time.

My aunts selection was the most unique of the evening – the most nouveau-French for sure. Again paired with asparagus and one of those strange caper tomatoes, pan seared monk-fish wrapped in pancetta with red pepper spaghetti was absolutely astounding. “Poor Man’s Lobster,” was a new experience for my aunt and one I was surprised to see her order, but it was definitely the best main of the evening. With the savory and crisp pancetta providing a perfect foil to the sweet and smooth fish I was delighted to help out with this dish (aunt wanting to “save room” for dessert) and found even more brilliance in the manner in which chef Blondin used a light garlic sauce to meld the two distinctly different flavors.

My main course, ordered both because it sounded amazing and because aunt had ordered the monkfish, was Spiced Cajun Duck Breast with chestnut confit, savoy cabbage potato cake, and pine honey gastrique and it wouldn’t have been out of place on the menu at Alex, La Folie, or even Joel Robuchon. Recommended medium rare the duck was reportedly wild caught game and it tasted extraordinarily fresh – the layer of fat barely melted but the skin crisp to the tooth and the meat without a hint of gaminess. An enormous portion the duck sat alongside a carrot topped with wild mushroom confit, watermelon turnips, confit style chestnuts, an au gratin potato cake topped with shredded and caramelized savoy cabbage, and the whole dish was surrounded by a layer of honey sweetened vinegar. Like the pork I experimented with multiple taste and texture combinations on this plate and found them all quite pleasing – particularly the turnip+chestnut+duck bites.

Up next – desserts – and like last time we received the seasonal pear tart “compliments of the chef.” This time featuring Cranberry Chutney, Butternut Squash Ice Cream, and White Chocolate Caramel atop the buttery pears and almond frangipane crust the dessert once again shined and showed the talents of the kitchen in terms of both taste and plating.

The first ordered dessert – my mother’s – was a trio of panna cotta, specifically Fig, pomegranate, and Lavender Honey plus a white Chocolate Pistachio Biscotti. Smooth and creamy each of the panna cotta were surprisingly large with the fig being invariably sweet and the pomegranate intense and tart. While the biscotti didn’t really pair particularly with any of the panna cotta it was quite excellent, as well.

Dessert two, my sisters, was recently featured in Columbus Alive – called “Tribute” the dish is meant as an ode to Elvis Presley and features Chocolate Shortbread, Peanut butter mousse, chocolate bavarian, banana sorbet, bacon streusel. Again pushing the “classic French” boundaries a bit and experimenting with avant-garde “sweet and savory” pairings I found this dish quite delectable with the crisp shortbread contrasting well with the creamy mousse and ganache-like Bavarian while the sweet sorbet worked well as a foil to the heavy chocolate and peanut butter. Sweet, salty, cold, warm, smooth, crisp – excellent.

The next dessert, my aunt’s “Chocolate Mania” was another multi-course dish with Blondie Cake, Brown Sugar Chocolate Chunk Ice Cream, Chocolate Chip Espresso Cookies, Chipped Cream, and Dark & White Chocolate Sauce. Like the salmon in that it explored a single ingredient in variant forms and like the tribute in its use of varying textures, tastes, temperatures, and styles this dessert was another winner and an impressively large amount of food for a mere $8.

The final dessert, selected by myself, was Deconstructed Apple Pie with Tatin Apples, Cheddar Crumble, Cinnamon Ice Cream, Balsamic Apple Reduction. Again with the sweet/savory pairing I adored this dish and consider it amongst my favorite desserts of 2009. Crisp and pan seared cinnamon apples, creamy cinnamon ice cream, and an acidic reduction of apples and ginger formed the backbone of the dish but the whole fusion was completed by the delightful pieces of dehydrated cheddar – an almost molecular gastronomy touch – that created a totally novel mouth-feel, yet entirely familiar flavor.

When it was all said and done we each walked out of The Refectory full and happy – another great meal with family, another great experience. On the way out each member of the staff stopped what they were doing to wish us happy holidays, welcome us back soon, and smile. Great food and great service, well priced and ample in portion; a breath of fresh air in a stale local dining scene. As with my prior visit at The Refectory, this trip was one celebrating a special occasion which and I guess that means that I consider The Refectory a “special occasion” kind of place.

The Refectory, Columbus Ohio

I’ve been to Lola with Symon’s “Iron Chef” ideals, Handke’s with his Bocuse d'or credentials, and Rosendales with his Culinary Olympic feats…none of them can even hold a candle to the tastes and textures produced by Richard Blondin at the Refectory. Additionally, I’ve been to Michelin starred bastions of haute-French such as Alex, Le Cirque, and MiX with their $150+/pp menus and can honestly say that while their Christofle silverware and ability to source incredibly rare and complex ingredients is commendable and impressive the food isn’t THAT much better than the succulent flavors at the Refectory. I had high expectations walking in the door and left with almost every one exceeded…The Refectory is, hands down, the best dining experience I’ve had in Ohio.

Arriving early in a late celebration of my sister’s birthday we were greeted by the owner himself and quickly escorted to our table in the corner of the main dining hall. Set in an old church I was amazed by the brightness of the heavily wooded room and impressed by the vast expanse of multiple different dining areas and settings as we walked through. Patrons, mostly elderly groups of 2-4, were quiet and respectful and classics from Chopin played lightly overhead. Napkins were unfolded and water was quickly poured as our server appeared with the menus plus wine and cocktail list. Declining wine the specials were offered and orders were placed with the server promising to return soon with bread.

In order to not taint my review with negativity, I’ll get my two gripes out of the way first. Number one, the timing of the meal was excessive with my sister waiting nearly an hour between her soup and her main, but part of this was my fault for ordering three appetizers in a “tasting menu” style as opposed to a single appetizer and a main. My second complaint was the pseudo-French accent utilized by many in the restaurant. Yes, I realize this is a French restaurant, but sir and ma’am are just as appropriate as “Monsieur” and “Madame” and the accent is entirely unnecessary. Aside from that, service was flawless and the setting was divine.

Prior to the bread, in wonderful fine dining fashion, a decadent amuse bouche was sent from the kitchen which consisted of a sublime chicken liver pate drizzled with basil infused olive oil and heirloom tomatoes. While I tend to prefer my liver in foie gras form and my sister isn’t generally a fan of “meat flavored jello,” the flavor was excellent and both solo and on bread the texture was exemplary for chicken. Speaking of the bread, warm and fresh country wheat bread with hints of rosemary and thyme was wonderful and consumed excessively with the soft unsalted butter.

For our first course my sister chose the Butternut Squash Veloute with crispy bacon and yukon gold potatoes while I opted for the Shrimp Tian with portabella duxelle, carrot crudite and a truffle vinaigrette. Served excessively hot, my sister’s soup was excellent, but the bold flavors of the squash left little hint of the bacon and potatoes which were undetectable in the creamy puree. While delicious, this dish certainly was the least impressive of the night. My Tian, similarly, was my least impressive choice…and considering its incredible taste that speaks volumes. 4 fresh shrimp, halved and served cold over a bed of chopped portabella’s mixed with a creamy vinaigrette and topped with a whimsical carrot slaw was a wonderful starter and a mere glimpse at what was to come in terms of contrasting tastes and textures.

Approximately 20 minutes passed and I was next brought something I didn’t expect; the best presentation of sweetbreads I’ve ever tasted. Better than dishes 3-4x its price in Vegas and Cleveland, the Veal sweetbread lasagna with celeri root and whole grain mustard Bordelaise was exquisite. Three large pieces of flawlessly pan-seared sweetbread covered with an herb sauce with hints of cinnamon and mustard, plus two flawless noodles and crispy white celery root. The price of the dish said appetizer but the portion said entrée anywhere else. Considering this can be had for half-price at the bar during the week, I’ll be back.

Fully enthralled by the sweetbreads, another 20 minutes passed before we were each served a honey and apricot sorbet palate cleanser. Better than Jeni’s splendid sorbets and a totally unexpected treat this only served to further amaze me with the Refectory…that is, until 20 minutes later when we were wowed once again.

For my sister the trio of veal, rabbit sausage, and lobster ravioli with morel sauce and for myself the Coquille St. Jacques with Scallop Mousseline, leek fondue and 'Bonne Femme' sauce. Having never tasted rabbit before, my sister was very impressed by the flavor and texture and I had to agree that it was a stunning representation. My sister also noted that the veal was delicious and tender while the lobster ravioli was large and tender, but not quite on par with the version at Worthington Inn. The Coquille, essentially a scallop and egg quiche covered with a buttery garlic and leek reduction, was once fantastic and almost a seafood custard in texture. Having never tasted a Coquille before, I must admit it left me wanting more.

Satiated but not “full” in a bad way, dessert was up next and once again came with surprises…in this case a third dessert complementary from the owner in celebration of my sister’s birthday. For myself, the menu left no question – Brioche pumpkin bread pudding with Mascarpone Ice Cream and Butterscotch Sauce and for my sister the Opera Gateau with chocolate covered coffee beansCrème Anglaise and chocolate sauce. From the house? The warm pear tart with pistachio Frangipane and pistachio Ice Cream (as originally made by Paul Bocuse himself.)

Starting with the Opera, all I can do is be impressed. Like Tiramisu without the rum, but with more chocolate the dish was fantastic…fantastic enough that I got a sliver and listened to my sister moan about how amazing it was for the rest of the evening. Next up, the tart…and more ‘wow.’ Beautiful in presentation and better in taste – a light pastry crust was thinly pressed to the plated and then layered with thinly sliced pears that were dusted with cinnamon and sugar and pan fried. This masterpiece was then surrounded with an artistic array of colors with flavors including raspberry and pistachio and topped with a small ball of flawless ice-cream…had the meal ended with dessert I’d have been plenty impressed…however there was something better.

In a city with many subpar bread puddings I only hoped the Refectory could do right and thankfully my hopes were met…met to the standard of the second best bread pudding I’ve ever tasted anywhere. Succulent cinnamon and nutmeg, dense and textural pumpkin brioche, sweet golden raisins, and a caramel sauce to die for all perfectly balanced by the best vanilla ice cream I’ve ever tasted…there was no way to eat this slow enough and yes, I used my finger to get every last drop out of the ramekin. While I call this the second best I’ve ever tasted (better than Keller, Lagasse, or Wynn’s mother,) I imagine that if it were set on a table directly next to Nancy Olson’s from Gramercy Tavern I’d be hard pressed to make a choice.

After dinner I had a wonderful cup of coffee; a rarity in Columbus since most restaurants seem to rely on Stauf’s mediocrity for their beans, and the bill was delivered while we sat and chatted about the amazing quality of the meal we’d experienced. A total with tax and tip of less than $130 was a bargain when compared to similar experiences in bigger cities and the server stopped by to tell us about the weekly bistro menu and half priced appetizers…possibly the best dining bargain in Columbus…even the owner himself stopped by to thank us for coming in.

Sure The Refectory is not on the same plane with Alex or Le Cirque and the multiple canapes, petit fores, and madelines but the price was less than a third and frankly you don't always need 18k gold bathroom fixtures, silverware handcrafted in France, and lobster so rare it can only be caught off the coast of Italy. All told, I went into The Refectory with great expectations and had all of them not only met, but bested. In a city that many deem a "chain restaurant haven," the the tastes, flavors, and presentation were all immaculate and I couldn't have been happier with the experience at The Refectory. I will most certainly be back in the future.