Providence, Los Angeles CA

The Los Angeles dining scene is not the same as San Francisco or New York – No Michelin 3 Starred restaurants, jeans where you would expect to see Armani suits, texting and cell-phones are wielded at will – it is nearly a “cultural” difference akin to eating Italian vs. Mexican. Knowing these things going into my meal at Providence I was admittedly curious, even despite the myriad glowing reviews, as to how the meal would fare compared to such venerable establishments as The French Laundry, Alex, and Charlie Trotter’s. Walking up to the unassuming building at the rough looking end of Melrose I must admit I was once again amused by LA’s strange zoning where rich and poor contrast so starkly, but entering Providence all thoughts of what lie outside quickly disappeared – greeted warmly by the lovely hostess and seated promptly everything that followed was 5-star dining at its best.

Seated in the main dining room at a fantastic table facing the room I was soon met by my primary server, a friendly young man named Steven and was later greeted by multiple other members of the team – each excellent and extremely knowledgeable of the chef, his menu, and the techniques. In addition to the flawless service, I was additionally impressed by the staff’s willingness to talk about life in Los Angeles, their personal interests, and even the in-house soundtrack (provided that evening from Mathew’s Ipod and featuring Radiohead, Neko Case, and the Decemberists) – as a solo diner it is great to have servers with personality. The menu was explained and my distaste for beef noted before I made the selection to experience the spontaneous chef’s menu of the evening. “The Chef’s tasting usually lasts approximately three and a half hours” said Steven…”excellent” I replied.

Shortly after ordering the meal began as Steven brought out a selection of warm breads from the Kitchen – a French Roll, Bacon Brioche, and Nori Forcaccia. While all were good and it is really difficult to find fault with Brioche, especially with Bacon, I was especially impressed by the Nori Forcaccia and its unique briney Pizza-crust taste and texture – a truly remarkable bread and amongst the best table breads I’ve ever tasted at a restaurant. Served with the bread was a relatively sweet house-butter with sea salt.

Approximately 10 minutes passed before my first amuse of the evening arrived – Chef Cimarusti’s dabble in mg a la Adrià entitled Greyhound and Mojito Ravioli and Gin n' Tonic Cube. Using the now-infamous emulsification technique employed by the likes of Cantu, Andres, and countless others two small raviolis were served on spoons with a small gelee centered between. Instructions were given to eat each bit whole and then to bite the lime. Though not a drinker, I must admit I found this amuse to be a perfect way to open the palate as each item provided a vastly different experience from the sweet berry wash of the Greyhound to the minty lime of the mojito and finally the sharp bitterness of the Gin n’ Tonic. I was additionally amused as the evening progressed as many other diners experienced the dish and reveled in the unique presentation.

The next course was a second collection of amuse bouche – this time with more focus on the savory. Presented on another long plate, Cured Tasmanian Trout, Gougere, Soy and Wasabi Marshmellow, and Carrot Soup with Vadouvan was another rollercoaster of tastes and textures ranging from the meaty succulence of the trout to the smooth cheese of the gougere to the airy spice of the Marshmallow and the woodsy Indian flavor of the Vadouvan. While the gougere certainly did not live up to that of Thomas Keller’s at TFL, the Marshmallow was truly brilliant and simply exploded with flavor.

Starting the mains, my first dish set the tempo for each incredible fish presentation thereafter. Entitled Kanpachi with Soy Creme Fraiche, Crispy Rice Crackers, and Coriander Blossoms the dish was quite simply the most delectable presentation of raw fish I’ve ever experienced – better than that of TFL or Charlie Trotter. Flawlessly fresh fish that melted in the mouth was perfectly balanced in its meatiness by the velvety smooth crème fraiche and contrasted sharply by the rice crackers and ‘scented’ with coriander – remarkable in all ways and generous in portion, a winner by any justification.

A short wait and some chat with the neighboring table – an pleasant elder group amused by my picture taking – brought the second dish of the evening; Uni in a Farm Fresh Egg with Champagne Beurre Blanc, American Caviar, and Brioche croutons. A huge fan of all-things involving poached eggs I was delighted yet skeptical as this dish arrived given a bad experience with Uni (admittedly in Ohio) a few years back, however after the first bite all skepticism was resolved. A wonderfully creamy egg served in the shell and much akin to that at The French Laundry concealed delicate Uni tongues beneath, warm and buttery brioche mixed within, and a healthy scoop of American osetra on top. Despite the caviar and uni, the briny aspects of the dish were well balanced by the buttery brioche and creamy egg plus the slight air of champagne throughout. While not quite as good as Keller’s, this was potentially the second best egg dish I’ve ever experienced.

Savoring my egg, dish three arrived only a few moments after I finished scraping my shell clean. First of the Season Dutch White Asparagus, Maine Lobster, Coral Sauce, and Miner's Lettuce was yet another in the procession of superb dishes and once again amongst my top five of its kind in terms of taste, texture, and quality. Perfectly poached lobster cooked in a manner similar to sous vide was complimented by crunchy asparagus and mildly bitter miner’s lettuce and then accented with Coral Sauce foam. Having experienced Coral sauce only once before, at Alex, I actually preferred chef Cimarusti’s version of the lobster-row based sauce despite the fact that the lobster didn’t quite stand up to Stratta’s incredible European Blue in taste.

Dish four, Halibut with Burdock, Shiso, Lemon, and Sake is apparently a personal favorite of the chef’s and a dish he prepared on Iron Chef in the past. Poached in the same humidity-lock device as the lobster the fish literally fell apart with the touch of a fork and melted on the tongue. Possessing none of the fishy flavor that often plagues Halibut the lemon and burdock were the heaviest accenting flavors while the shiso and sake resided as a bass-note that lingered on the palate after each bite and provided a refreshing minty-bitter contrast. A truly complex dish that likely “isn’t for everyone” I think this dish redefined the generally boring halibut and worked quite well.

Dish five, Foie Gras Saute with Apple Shallot Compote, Applejack Brandy, and Apple Espuma was my first non-fish of the evening and showed off the chef’s talents even further. Though a fan of terrine’s over seared Foie preparations, this dish was excellent and almost served more as a study of apples than as a study of the Foie itself. Well seared foie with some minimal sinew was sharply contrast by the pungent yet sweet Apple-Shallot compote while the Brandy formed a bitter foil that prevented any aspect from being “too sweet” like the version at Gary Danko. I particularly found the Espuma interesting in its airy consistency , but do wish that perhaps there had been something crunchy on the plate for contrast.

Dish six, Pork Belly with Carrot Orange Puree, Pickled Ramps, Mizuna, and Carrot Miso Butter presented a second land-animal intermission in the menu and actually topped the Foie in almost every way. Fatty and succulent the Pork Belly was so tender it was spreadable (akin to that at Gramercy Tavern) and the best I’ve ever tasted. Adding to the experience, the crispy skin added a salty and crisp contrast while the carrot-orange puree had a sweet potato-esque flavor. Finally, the butter with spices added a subtle undertone that balanced the mustardy essence of the Mizuna wonderfully and the pickled ramps…what can I say? I love ramps and these were incredible.

Dish seven and back to the fishes – this time Arctic Char with Sweet Peas, Pea Puree, and Black Truffles - possibly the most ‘simple’ of the fish presentations yet still very effective. This time focusing on pan-searing in simple olive oil, the char was cooked rare with a rich and fatty texture well complimented by smooth and creamy pea puree and pea tendril foam with small shavings of black truffle and truffle butter lending an extra degree of earthiness.

Dish eight, the final of the meats, was a replacement for the night’s beef dish and a wonderful replacement to say the least. Turbot with Ramps, Central Coast Chantrelles, Crispy Fin, Turbot-Truffle Sashimi, and Juliet Tomato was a collection of small bites that each offered a new angle and new taste that wowed the palate – literally like 4 dishes in one. First, a wonderfully poached turbot was served simply over a bed of Chantrelle Mushrooms and tomatoes that provided excellent tastes of sweet and savory. Second, the pan fried ramps with parmesan foam and shavings was another unique yet simple flavor that truly highlighted the early season’s rich and moist pungency. Third, the crispy fin was panko dusted and pan-fried, oddly fishy yet unique in texture and well complimented by the ramp puree. Finally, the Turbot belly and truffle sashimi was wonderfully smooth and earthy with a small amount of sweetness from tomato puree.

Following the turbot was the cheese cart and not knowing much about cheeses in general I allowed my server to make the selections with the simple preference for smooth and nutty over pungent or smokey. Four choices were made and included Capriole Farms Goat Cheese Sofia, French Double Cream Cow Cheese, Denver Cauliflower Goat Cheese, Le Marechal Raw Cow's Milk Cheese plus the accompaniments of Rye Fig Bread, Apricot Riesling Puree, Apple Puree, Candied Walnuts, and Mission Figs. While each selection was excellent, I must admit a particular fondness for the Sofia with its veins of ash and the Raw Cow’s Milk Cheese with its creamy butter-like finish. The Mission Figs and Apricot Riesling Puree were also quite stellar, as expected.

Feeling quite full I was informed that dessert was next – four courses to be exact – thank goodness for my hollow leg! The first dessert, a palate cleanser of sorts, was Kalamansi Gelee with White Chocolate Coconut Milk Soup and litchi-shiso sorbet. My first experience with Chef Vasquez’s unique style was a definite winner with the room temperature coconut milk soup and white chocolate tapioca providing a smooth and sliken contrast to the icy cold and sweet/sour combination of lime sorbet and Philippine-Lemon Gel beneath.

The second dessert, by far the most unique, was entitled Vanilla Mandarin Capsule with Fennel and Basil Salad, Black Olive Brittle. Living up to its description, the capsule was a vibrant orange Popsicle that housed a liquid vanilla bean cream which spilled forth when broken. Beneath the capsule lied a flavorful salad of fennel and basil that was poached and smooth while the Black Olive Brittle provided a strong savory crunch. Small sections of incredibly sweet mandarin orange lent yet another degree of texture and flavor to the dish.

Dessert three, Pumpkin 'Pie' with Curry Ice Cream and Pecan Streusel, Balsamic Vinegar was a deconstructionist take on the Pie and quite ‘ordinary’ compared to the previous desserts. A sphere of creamy fresh pumpkin and a dollop of smoky-spicy ice cream were served over a buttery streusel with dots of aged balsamic and salted cream with dramatic effect to the eye but not much more than a standard pumpkin pie flavor to the tongue. Certainly not “bad,” but aside from the stylish presentation nothing overly impressive either.

The final dessert, declared the ‘piece de resistance’ by Steven was indeed incredible. Chocolate Ganache with Peanut Butter, 'These Pretzels are making me Thirsty' and Chably Noire Beer Ice Cream was served as a thick layer cake of chocolate and rich peanut butter topped with chocolate covered house made pretzels and a raked “river” of peanut butter leading to a savory and creamy ice cream with hints of cinnamon, hops, sugar, and barley. Truly unique and as pleasing to the mouth as the eye I can honestly say this was one of the five or six best desserts I’ve ever had despite not even being a fan of beer.

After dinner I sat and chatted with the staff while drinking a wonderful small french press of LA-Mill coffee with high-notes of berry and almonds and enjoying a small plate of petit fores including Chocolate Hazelnut Truffles, Mushroom Caramels, and Olive Oil Gelee. Without requesting it I was brought a personalized copy of the menu (with my fish substitution in place of the beef) and Matt even stopped out to discuss his Ipod selections and his love for the Decemberists.

All told, Providence was a wonderful dining experience and possibly the best “bang for the buck” meal I’ve ever tasted. While not as refined or excellent as The French Laundry (the 20ish year old girl playing Nintendo DS at the table across the way while her parents enjoyed caviar, for instance) the price was less than half for food that was almost as good andwhile not as elegant as Charlie Trotter’s or Alex, the portions were more substantial, the food equal, and the service much less stuffy. As I noted prior, there is definitely a difference between the LA “scene” and that of other major cities, but I can definitely say that no matter where it was located the food, service, and quality of Providence definitely warrant its “Two Star” Michelin status and I will invariably be back.

Sweet Lady Jane, Los Angeles CA

While some Angelos seem to believe that waiting in absurd lines at Sprinkles for sub-par cupcakes is “the thing to do,” I’ve already experienced Sprinkles and many other LA cupcakeries and been underwhelmed. While some (Vanilla and Yummy) have shined, the rest have been merely okay or largely unmemorable. Arriving in LA mid-day on a Sunday and not wanting to deal with the 20-deep line at Huckleberry I opted to make my first trip to Sweet Lady Jane’s. While many claim that the products have suffered since being sold at Ralph’s and others state the service is often surly, I figured that given the pedigree and focus on fresh seasonal ingredients couldn’t possibly yield anything but impressive results…and I was right.

Finding free parking on Kings street (how ironic) I made my way through the front door and although all the seats were filled I was amazed at the tiny size of the store and the quaint nature and quietness of the neighborhood despite the myriad stores along the street on the way. Greeted pleasantly by one of two ladies behind the counter I told her I needed to browse the selections first and was told to simply let her know when I was ready. While waiting four more people entered the store and were served in a similarly pleasant manner – no surly service noted.

Though everything on the menu looked delectable I was notably having dinner at Providence that evening and wanted to keep it light…so I only made 2 selections - The Summer Bread Pudding and a Red Velvet Cupcake.

Starting with the cupcake I can honestly say that this was, at the time, the best Red Velvet I’d yet experience in LA. Thick and smooth cream cheese frosting with hints of lemon, dense and moist cake that wasn’t “too sweet,” the cupcake was nearly as good as that at Bouchon Bakery in Vegas but vastly smaller, similar in price, and unfilled. Still warm I’m certain this cupcake, like most of SLJ’s creations, was fresh from the oven only moments before being placed out in the storefront for sale – excellent and well worth its $4 pricetag.

My second option, the summer berry bread pudding…it almost isn’t fair…it almost isn’t fair that something so good hadn’t graced my palate until the ripe-old age of 29. At $7 the nearly half-pound slice of cake was a veritable bargain given the quantity and freshness of the berries – there were so many that one could almost pretend this pudding was healthy if it weren’t for the wonderfully decadent layers of buttery croissant in between. With only the natural sweetness of the berries shining through and complimented by the whipped topping this dish was without a doubt the best fruit-based bread pudding ever and reason alone to rank SLJ at the apex of LA pastry shops. Dense, moist, decadent, and absolutely loaded with fresh berries – plus fresh hand whipped cream…sigh.

All told my trip to SLJ cost m $12 and provided two of the best desserts I’ve ever experienced. Combined with the quality of preparation, friendly service, and lack of hipster/trendster lines I can definitely say I’d head back to Jane’s 10+ times before ever making my way to Sprinkles again.

Candelas on the Bay, San Diego CA

After a long drive from Los Angeles and a stellar afternoon snack at Extraordinary Desserts the last stop on a nine day foodie, hockey, and interview trek from San Francisco to San Jose to Monterey to Los Angeles to San Diego was reservations to enjoy dinner and watch the sunset at Candelas on the Bay. A restaurant held in notably lower regards than the majority of our previous dining experiences, the concept of French infused Mexican food simply sounded too unique to pass up – and the scenery really couldn’t be beat. Arriving approximately thirty minutes before our reservation we had the opportunity to wander the quaint yet touristy area of Coronado Island while enjoying the wonderful weather and watching the sun sink into the horizon.

Entering the restaurant it was notably quite empty despite being 7:00pm on a Sunday, as a matter of fact there were only two other tables populated in the entire large restaurant. Decorated in low light and heavy woods with multiple candles throughout, the restaurant had the feel of a happening night spot, but also an air of romanticism and the floor-to-ceiling windows provided an excellent view of the bay. Seated promptly at a window seat as requested, water was filled and menus delivered by our hostess.

After a few moments of browsing the menu and noting the decibel level arising from a table full of children across the restaurant, our server Daniel M arrived. A gregarious fellow full of stories, anecdotes, recommendations, and quips I can say that Daniel was nothing like any of the other waiters on the trip, but I liked him more than any except maybe Ruben at The French Laundry – sometimes it is nice to have someone with personality serving your food. Referring to Candela’s food as “Beverley Hills Hispanic Cuisine” Daniel explained some of the choices and specials and left us with time to decide before brining bread and taking orders – orders which he would either approve of or disapprove of after inquiring about our particular tastes. Normally I find a waiter/waitress guiding my decisions a tad odd, but I certainly prefer it to the sort of waiter who suggests “everything is good.” I like honesty.

Orders placed we got started on the breads – each served warm from the oven along with a most interesting tequilla and oregano spiced jalapeno butter. While the seeded whole-grain and white roll were both serviceable and much enhanced by the superb butter, the star of the breads was undoubtedly the cheese roll which had the consistency of a hot buttered roll, but contained a warm core of creamy cheese that tasted somewhat of a brie. In order to not stuff myself before the meal even began I limited myself to one of each roll, but most certainly could have consumed a few more of the cheese rolls happily.

Taking my standard approach to non-tasting menus, I opted for three appetizers instead of a main while my companions each chose an appetizer and a main. After approximately 20 minutes more of chatting and watching the beautiful boats on the bay (and listening to the ever growing racket from the children with indifferent parents across the restaurant) we noted that the restaurant began to fill up with patrons and Daniel wooed each table with more clever conversation. It was at this time that our first course arrived.
For my mother’s first selection she chose the “Crema de Cuatro Quesos al Chile Pasilla, a cheese soup consisting of well blended Mozzarella, Swiss, Bleu, and Parmesan cheeses with a dollop of mashed potatoes, jumbo prawn, and shredded fried sweet potatoes. Like all of Candela’s dishes, the vast numbers of ingredients in this dish were certain to register on many different levels and unlike some of the other dishes, this one worked very well. With heavy top notes from the sweet potatoes, prawns, and bleu cheese the Mozzarella and Parmesan plus the mashed potatoes formed a smoother and more textural base that registered on the palate moreso than the tongue. Heavy and rich, the portion of this dish was quite large and sharing was definitely necessary.

Desiring something lighter, my aunt selected the “Ensalada de Palmitos,” a mixed greens salad with vinegar sauteed tomatoes, mushrooms, hearts of palm, and artichoke vinaigrette. The second unique vinaigrette of the trip (Bouchon’s Walnut vinaigrette being the first) I quite liked this salad and found the combination of perfectly tender hearts of palm with invariably sweet tomatoes to be a good base for the smooth yet savory vinaigrette. Very fresh and impressive in portion, another winner.

For my first course I was served two appetizers, one hot and one cold. The first, heavily recommended by our waiter was “Callos Jean,” or Scallops Sautéed with Portobello Mushrooms, Onions, Cilantro, jalapeno, lime, and white wine. Per Daniel these were the best scallops he’d ever tasted, but per Mike Daniel clearly has not been to Gary Danko, Moto, Deepwood, or a number of other restaurants. While decent, scallops are too delicate for such a vast number of spices and the somewhat overcooked mussels were simply lost in the jumble while the lime and cilantro just overwhelmed the palate and the jalapenos dominated the tongue.
The second dish, “Estructura de Aguacate” was a pureed Hass avocado with scallops, shrimp, and crab marinated in lime-juice and tossed with cilantro, tomato, onion and served with basil mango vinaigrette. Served like a tuna tartare and featuring a similar mixture of spices to the Callos Jean, this dish worked much better and was actually quite delicious – and large. Sweet crab and scallops were clearly detectable over the spice and the lime juice provided a sour foil to the sweet mango vinaigrette (yet another new vinaigrette) and the whole dish had a decidedly Italian feel to it while also maintaining a Spanish ceviche quality due to the lime and seafood.

Plates cleared we sat once again listening to the now-screaming-level sounds coming from across the restaurant and were amused that two of our neighboring tables complained directly to the waiter about the noise – one group even walking out of the restaurants after drinks due to the racket. While I understand that the economy is bad and you don’t want to offend a guest by asking them to leave or silence their children, I also think it is poor form to allow one table to ruin the experience of others. While not offended enough to leave, we were ~30-40 yards from the table; had I been close I’d have left as well. Eventually, just after our mains arrived, the group finally left and the ambiance greatly improved.

The first main dish, ordered by my mother, was “Escamas del Mayab,” a Grouper sauteed in olive oil and topped with baked scallop potato scales, served with vegetables and poblano Chile and yellow corn cream sauce. A large piece of grouper, I cannot say this was the freshest piece of fish on our trip – possibly the least fresh, actually – but certainly not bad. Lightly sautéed but cooked well to the middle, the mild and delicate fish was well complimented by the crispy potato scales while the combination of sauces were an interesting twist. Not a huge fan of poblanos in general, I was glad that this sauce was relatively muted and not overwhelming – thick with a little heat, nothing too memorable. The second sauce was actually tremendous and reminded me both in taste and flavor of a cornbread pudding akin to that at Moto – mild and sweet, a good accompaniment to the fish. The vegetables, while fresh, were sautéed in olive oil and spice and relatively unmemorable.

The second main, my aunt’s selection, was “Pasta Uxmal,” a linguini pasta with lobster and Portobello Mushrooms. After dinner at Mozza and La Botte in LA, plus the hand rolled pasta at One Market I’m really not sure what her thoughts were in ordering a non-house made noodle – but order she did. Unremarkable, bland, and limp the pasta was quite sub-par in my opinion while the lobster was relatively unflavorful and lost to the earthy mushrooms. I admit I did not expect much from this dish and it delivered just that. My aunt liked it, so I guess that is something, but for the price I’d take Prego, Krab, and Barilla.
The final main, actually an appetizer, was the “Ceviche de Pulpo.” Octopus ceviche sandwiched between two crispy corn tortillas, fresh mango slices and vinaigrette was definitely my favorite savory of the night and was actually impressive on a level that far surpassed the rest of the dishes. Utilizing minimal excess spices and instead focusing on well prepared octopus, fresh mangoes, and a simple vinaigrette I found the approach and execution to this dish quite different from the rest of my choices and liked it very much. Perhaps it was the lack of cilantro, perhaps the less-is-more approach – a contender along with All Angelo’s Octopus carpaccio for best octopus preparation I’ve tasted.

Having already enjoyed Karen Krasne’s Extraordinary Desserts earlier in the day and feeling quite full (with some cheesecake remaining at the hotel) we decided to order only one dessert with three spoons. Highly recommended by Dan and certainly a novelty given the fruit component we selected the “Pastel Tres Leches” Traditional Strawberry Sponge Cake soaked in three milks sauce. Served in a portion large enough to share we found this dessert wonderful in texture, taste, and presentation – like an Angel food strawberry shortcake with hints of caramel and crème fraiche, but vastly better – a great ending to the meal.
When it was all said and done, our bill was quite modest compared to other dining experiences on the same trip – but so was the degree of satisfaction. While billing itself as fine dining, I personally found Candelas to be more aptly described as a bar with better-than-average bar-food. Somewhere in the preparation of the menu I do believe the chef lost track of how to enhance a dish with spices and instead opted to simply over-spice and over-season for the sake of complexity. Instead of using 6-7 ingredients separated on a plate to highlight various textures and aspects, the ingredients were all served combined thus blunting the impact of each. Additionally, while the setting is beautiful and the service was absolutely wonderful, I have to admit that the screaming children was a huge disappointment in how it was handled. In the end, I don’t think I would go back to Candelas given the myriad other options in San Diego – but if I ever opened a restaurant of my own, I’d be sure to ask Daniel to be a server.