Durgin Park, Boston MA

For my very last meal in Boston I took a chance on Durgin Park; sure its location, reputation, and fame screamed “tourism” but then again how could a space in operation since 1827 not be? With a sign reading “Established before you were born” and street performers, kiosks, and crowds dominating the exterior I will admit my skepticism on approaching the only restaurant my mother remembered visiting in Boston 30+ years prior but something told me to press on if only for nostalgia factor.



With my plane leaving at 8:05pm my arrival at Durgin Park would occur between lunch and dinner and while the streets outside were bustling the restaurant itself would prove largely uninhabited. Greeted first by a man at the bar and then by a hostess in a long Quaker-style dress I was given the option of sitting indoors or on the patio and although the weather was gorgeous the loud crowds outside and desire to see the aged interior led me to choose the upstairs indoor dining room – an area that would turn out to be completely empty throughout the duration of my seventy minute visit save for the cooks and servers arriving and preparing for dinner service.



Seated at one of the myriad long communal tables near the open windows with ceiling fans churning overhead I browsed the heavily wooden and tile room for a bit before my server, a nice young woman named Shively approached with a pitcher of water and the restaurant menu. Expecting the gruff attitude some say that Durgin Park encourages from their servers I’ll note that I received no such behavior but rather smiles and “you’re welcomes” throughout the meal and with the full pitcher of water left on the table refills were never an issue. With the menu filled with “traditional New England-style” options and a focus on that which is broiled, boiled, or fried accompanied by side dishes largely reserved for Thanksgiving dinner in the Midwest I weighed my options for a bit before making my decisions – an order declared “all the classics – good choice” by Shively.



With the restaurant reportedly functioning with “one chef and only a couple servers” due to my time of arrival I was told it would take “about half an hour” to put my order together but with plenty of time before my plane was to arrive I had time to waste and set to reading the extensive beer list and a small book about Durgin Park’s history while I waited. Expecting the whole order to take thirty minutes I was surprised when Shively returned with my first course less than ten minutes later; Clam Chowder with Oyster Crackers and Corn Bread with a pat of butter. Beginning first with the cornbread – nice firmness and a touch of sweetness, plenty toothsome but unfortunately a bit dry even with added butter. Moving on to the chowder – definitely a step in the right direction and much more as I’d expected from the clam chowder in New England – thick, creamy, loaded with potatoes and clams – but unfortunately just a bit too bland, a situation I remedied by adding the salty oyster crackers which definitely helped.



Moving on to my main course which would indeed arrive approximately thirty minutes after I placed my order, Baked Boston Schrod with seasoned Breadcrumbs, Boston Baked Beans, and Butternut Squash was two hits and one epic failure. Beginning first with the miss – the butternut squash – a soupy unseasoned mess that I can only imagine being palatable to babies; it honestly tasted like chunky water and had someone in the kitchen tasted it I cannot imagine this dish being sent out. Moving on to bigger and better, first off were the beans served in a small bowl and bursting with flavor. Soft without being mushy, fibrous without being chewy, sweet while still savory, and all with a light undertone of pork filling the palate. Last but not least, the Schrod with seasoned breadcrumbs reminded me strongly of the battered Yellow Perch my grandmother used to make during summers back in Ohio – flavorful and light, flaky and delicate, and great alone but better with ketchup.



With the schrod all gone and my feelings about the squash noted by the still full bowl dessert would arrive quickly on the heels of my main course. Ordered at the start of the meal as to avoid delays and essentially the impetus for my visit in the first place, “Indian Pudding” would appear in a bowl much larger than anticipated and as a fan of bread pudding, pudding in general, polenta, cornbread, maple syrup, and cinnamon the dish really had no chance to fail. Steaming hot and absolutely slathered with quickly melting vanilla ice cream this was exactly the sort of dish I’d hoped for – a dish that could double as breakfast, dessert, or a side dish with minimal difficulty and absolutely loaded with texture, nuance, and sweetness; sure it isn’t going to win praise as the most attractive or artistic dessert out there, but for me it just might have won out as the most utterly satisfying.



With the bill paid – an admittedly steep $40 after tax and tip – and more smiles and thanks from my server I made my way to the top of the stairs where the chef yelled to me from the kitchen to ask me how everything was. Responding that everything was good (I didn’t have it in me to complain about the squash after the Indian Pudding) he asked where I was from and stating “Ohio” he responded “yeah – ya ain’t going to find Indian Pudding there” and thanked me for coming in even though he didn’t have to; the thanks was mine to give for sending me home from Boston on such a fine note.

Big Jones, Chicago IL

For breakfast on the third day of our trip to Chicago I planned in advance – while I’m willing to wait in long lines for great food I’d much rather make a reservation and avoid it. With most Chicago brunch hot-spots opening around 9:00am I woke up early as ever a hit the gym before waking the crew and hitting the road – our first stop would be Floriole bakery at 8:00am – unfortunately they’d had some issues with staff arriving late and very few items were ready – unabashed we walked next door to Sweet Mandy B’s where we picked up some cupcakes for later.

Loaded back into the car by 8:30 we proceeded through the cold streets and arrived in Andersonville by 8:45 – familiar with the area from our visit to Great Lake the night before we actually parked in the same exact spot and made our way to Big Jones by 8:55. Just slightly north of freezing we stood waiting for the doors to open while we watched three fellows (one with his pants essentially halfway down his posterior) attempt to hang a large curtain near the hostess stand…when 9:00 rolled around the doors did not open…nor did they open at 9:05, 9:10, or 9:15 as the team fussed with the curtain and moving plates around on tables…I know they saw us – they saw our group and another two couples standing in the cold yet the “closed” sign remained in place. At 9:20 they finally opened the door without any explanation for the delay – even when I strode up the host stand and made a point stating “We had reservations for three at 9am” – and without a hello or a smile we were led to a seat near the front of the restaurant where their newly hung curtain would fail to prevent an extremely cold draft every time someone opened the door.

Without going on at length about the abysmal service at Big Jones and thus rendering this review negative throughout I will note here that aside from the seating gaffs there was also the issue of empty coffee and hot water for tea, orders presented to the wrong persons, significant delays and lack of personality despite the restaurant being half empty, and a dessert order that required advanced notice was forgotten thus prolonging our frequently frigid stay by 30 minutes. Those issues out of the way, I will now note that the setting was charming, the seating comfortable, and the concept/cooking quite appealing. As described by chef/owner Paul Fehribach "I do what I do because I want to see nutrition, sustainability, and humane treatment of farm animals become the standard by which we judge food - not cheap price, industrial consistency, or marketing dollars spent. We can all eat better by treating the land and our animal friends better."

Warming up with the first of three cups of Intelligentsia orders were placed and the first item to arrive was the restaurant’s signature complimentary beignets. Served in a group of four and topped liberally (or sparsely if your point of comparison is Café du Monde) with powdered sugar the puffs of dough were toothsome on the exterior with a supple interior that melted in the mouth – as quickly as they arrived they were gone.

For our appetizer selections we decided to share two of the myriad Low Country options – the first being Cracked Pepper and Goat Cheese Biscuits with Honey butter and house blueberry preserves. Textural and buttery the biscuits were excellent with a distinct tanginess lent by the cheese. Visually obvious I personally did not feel the pepper added much flavor to the dish but with that said the saccharine sweet honey butter and smooth preserves were excellent additions and served to highlight the cheese’s nuances.

The second appetizer, Cajun Pancakes with blueberry preserves and honey butter fared just as well as the biscuits and perhaps better. Thin crepes with the butter folded inside the crispy yet light cakes were paired with powdered sugar and the same delectable preserves presented with the biscuits. Thinking aloud I mentioned to my sister that any dish raising memories of my Maternal Grandmother’s Hungarian palachinka is never a bad thing – interestingly another dish later in the day would raise memory of my Maternal Grandfather, as well.

After a lengthy delay of around twenty-five minutes the restaurant had filled to approximately 1/2 capacity and our main courses began to arrive. With Nate again not preferring sugary breakfasts he opted for a beautiful looking rendition of classic Eggs Benedict with Neiman Ranch applewood pit ham, and poached eggs served over popovers and topped with hollandaise alongside classic potatoes O'Brien. Judging by his lack of chatter during the meal and subsequent empty plate I will assume he enjoyed them.

Eschewing her love of sweet breakfasts for her love of both cornbread and pancakes Erika’s selection would prove to be the best of the group – Low country style corn cakes with cheddar cheese, vegetarian red beans, poached eggs, and green tomato chili sauce. Far less spicy than I’d have imagined (a good thing for me but likely not for those who fancy “low country” heat) the cakes themselves proved to be toothsome without being grainy and sweet without being sugary. Topped with perfectly poached eggs whose yolks helped to balance the acidity of the tomatoes and rimmed by red beans the dish was certainly heavy but not so much that it was overwhelming.

For my option, featuring house made Sally Lunn Bread, I selected the Sally Lunn French Toast with Brandied Harrow's Delight pears, Neiman Ranch applewood ham, and Michigan Maple syrup. Sweet, Savory, and slightly boozy all at once this dish could have been a standout save for one thing – as well caramelized and eggy as the bread was, it was largely uncooked on the interior and more a grilled ham sandwich than French Toast. Tasty for sure and featuring some of the best breakfast ham I’ve had in some time I simply prefer my French Toast with a more custard center.

At this point our server returned to ask “will there be anything else” and when I mentioned the dessert order he admitted he had forgotten and apologized. Asking if we would still be interested I assented and after another 30 minutes of chatting and drinking coffee the desserts would arrive – the first a house made Bourbon Bread Pudding with Autumn Apples, Salted caramel, and vanilla bean ice cream. Considering myself something of a Bread Pudding Aficionado I have to say the flavor of the dish was quite good but the texture of the pudding was a tad stiff and the apples were underwhelming both it taste and texture. With the vanilla bean ice-cream and the crumbled salted caramel propping up the dish I will simply say I was underwhelmed that this came from a restaurant proclaiming itself to represent Southern Costal Cuisine.

Our final selection, and the reason for the delay, was the fresh baked Red Velvet Cake with cocoa, beet, and citrus plus cream cheese semifreddo. What the dish lacked in presentation – essentially a puck of red velvet tilted up by the semifreddo and crumbles of salted caramel along side – it more than made up for in taste, texture, and temperature. With the still steaming cake slowly melting the impossibly creamy and smooth semifreddo and caramel adding texture each bite was a different experience – cocoa, citrus, earthy, and entirely worth the wait – a dish that alone justifies a visit to Big Jones, even if just for dessert (perhaps after a Pizza at Great Lake?)

Settling the bill and making our way to the car the day remained cold while my feelings about Big Jones could be summed up as tepid. With ethics and a business model so strong I felt rather disappointed that customer service was so poor and while some items were truly exemplary others were rather ho-hum and poorly executed. Having now had a number of great breakfasts and brunches in Chicago – in my humble opinion the best brunch city in the US – I can’t say I’d rush back to Big Jones for anything aside from that Red Velvet cake…provided I did not have to stand and then sit in the cold for 2 hours to get it.

Supper and Garces Trading Company, Philadelphia PA

Described as “upscale modern American” I had it on good word that the setting and food at Supper were worth the trip at any time of day, but especially at brunch. Browsing the online space and the menu I had to admit I liked the sound of it, but I’d be torn as to what to orders as there were so many divine options. Per usual I figured it never hurts to ask if half orders could be accommodated and I e-mailed the restaurant… surprisingly Mitch Prensky answers his own e-mails…he allows half orders…and he also makes an excellent brunch in his own kitchen…dinner too, I’d gather.

Arriving shortly after my 11:00am reservation and a morning wandering around the Italian Market and Philadelphia’s Magic Garden I was greeted pleasantly by a hostess who noted my reservation and led me promptly to a nice seat directly next to the kitchen – a quick glance over my shoulder gave me full view of the chef’s and action. Minimally crowded at the early hour I smiled at the minimalist exposed brick and wood design, playful overhead music, and folks sitting at the bar with their daily libations.

Water filled I assented to coffee – a smooth and mild morning brew and was asked if I needed to see a menu since Chef Prensky had already noted the item’s I’d inquired about. Figuring it never hurts to look I again browsed the menu and although the Lamb French Dip, Supper Dog, and Johnny Cakes sounded tempting I stuck to my original order and added a side dish. Stating I’d made a “great choice” my server left me to coffee and the tunes overhead. As the place was empty aside from two other tables the service was predictably spot on and my server stopped by to chat a couple of times – mostly about the collapsing Phillies.

Waiting and watching as the chefs prepared my items the kitchen was spotless and calm – quite large as well. After approximately 15 minutes my server would appear with my first course – the side dish of Cornbread Hush Puppies. Steaming hot – too hot to eat at first, actually, I allowed the little orbs to cool before taking a bite. Perfectly described by the golf-ball sized pieces were crisp outside and moist inside with plenty of corn flavor and hints of what I believe were honey and bacon renderings. Nicely done and enough to share if dining with a group.

Shortly following the hush puppies – actually, arriving after I’d only eaten one due to the temperature – would be my two half-mains. Beginning with the “good,” and then moving to the “amazing,” the first item was Red Velvet Waffles with sweet cream cheese mousse, toasted pecans and bourbon cherries. A small square, mildly crisp outside and fluffy within, the waffle was tasty with hints of cocoa. What made the dish shine, however, was the whipped and airy cream cheese mousse and boozy bourbon cherries.

While the waffles were good, the Key Lime French Toast with graham cracker crust, key lime cream, warm blueberries and coconut marshmallow were amongst the top 5 breakfast concoctions I’ve had in 2010. Dainty but custard laden within the French Toast itself was good, especially coated with a crisp and crunchy layer of Graham crackers. Pairing the toast with torch bruleed marshmallows topped with shredded coconut, sour key lime mousse/cream, and sweetened fresh blueberries provided a nearly tropical experience and a dish that is entirely too time consuming to be prepared at home – and an excellent reason to visit Supper.

Settling the extremely modest tab and thanking the chef as well as my servers I made my way to the street, past the “old school cereal bar” and toward the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul. Invariably impressive from the customer service to the space to the food I wholeheartedly recommend everyone check out Supper’s brunch for a change-up to the long lines at other Philly “institutes,” it was the best breakfast I’ve had since May in Baltimore.

En route to the Cathedral I made a point of stopping by Garces Trading Company to pick up a few pounds of coffee and snacks to enjoy while awaiting my plane at the airport. Arriving early in their brunch hour the place was crowded and loud – so much so that it took me nearly 20 minutes to purchase two pounds of coffee, a cannele, and two Macarons.

While I will say that the coffee was excellent (I’m actually drinking some of the mildly cinnamon kissed GTC Reserva while writing this) the pastries did not fare as well…and although I cannot be sure, I’d venture to say that they were baked in advance and refrigerated – or at least the canele was as it lacked any crunch or nuance, instead almost marshmallow in texture and far too sweet. While the Macarons fared better – particularly the Caramel Butter cream, the shell lacked the characteristic crackle.

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All in all I’d give the Trading Co another shot – the cured meats selection and cheeses looked fantastic and the people enjoying their brunch seemed happy and boisterous – but I really don’t like when traditional French pastries come out soggy, limp, and overly sweet...but perhaps I shouldn’t expect traditional French from a man whose history is Spanish and Latino fusion? Too bad really, better pastries would make an excellent pairing for the outstanding coffee.

Melt Bar and Grilled, Lakewood OH

According to their website, "Melt opened in September 2006 with one goal: To provide gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches and as many beers as possible in a cool and comfortable environment. No bar food. No boring choices on tap. And something for everyone: it's Cleveland-friendly, slightly kitschy, and memorable. It's relaxing, energetic, and fun." Having missed out on Melt while my sister was at CIA but hearing wonderful things I knew I had to check it out on my next visit to Cleveland - I also knew I would have to get there early as I'd heard stories of 1-2 hour waits even on weekdays. Planning in advance to arrive as early as possible my family and I did just that, pulling up to the back lot (free parking) just after 11:30 on a gloomy Friday.



As the only Melt-Virgin in the group I chuckled as we approached the back door - a setup almost 100% identical to Hollywood's Griddle Cafe - another restaurant specializing in kitsch and quality, in their case pancakes and breakfast foods. Entering the enormous waiting area we found the restaurant already 75% full but were led to a great four-top in the middle of the dining room. Snapping pictures of the hilarious decor and peering into the kitchen we were handed copies of the menu - cleverly printed on the back of old record jackets. Browsing the decor I noticed that Diners/Dives/Drive-Ins as well as Man Vs. Food had recently been to Melt and that they are apparently soon to be opening a second store less than 500 yards from my sister's old apartment - clearly business was going well. As a non-drinker I really didn't pay much attention to Melt's notable beer list, though reliable sources tell me it is quite impressive.



Browsing the menu there were in excess of ten sandwiches I wanted to try and a quick glance at the dessert menu let me know I'd have to save room. Watching coverage of The Masters and listening to the 60's/70's/80's era music over the stereo (plus some rather loud older ladies at the table next to us) we were soon greeted by a young lady named Sophia (Sofia?) who would serve as our waitress - and the waitress for nearly half of the busting-at-the-seems-busy restaurant. Aside from being ridiculously cute and friendly, Sophia was also potentially the best waitress I've ever seen at a busy casual joint - full of information (about the food and restaurant,) checking in frequently, drinks never dropping below 1/3 empty, and always with a smile on her face.



Orders placed we sat back and enjoyed our drinks - for mom and aunt iced tea and for myself a surprisingly rich and flavorful coffee (refilled repeatedly, and served in hilariously mismatched cups.) With myriad takeout orders coming out of the kitchen and the line in the lobby growing longer by the minute Sophia informed us that our orders could take up to an hour - not a problem as the scene was certainly entertainment in and of itself. Noting that this is a "bar" I will say the noise level got quite loud at times - though significantly less so (and noted by the bartender to a woman at the bar) once the older ladies next to us started eating.



Approximately 45 minutes after we were seated our sandwiches arrived - and they were as big, bold, and beautiful as advertised. Served alongside each of the sandwiches were excellent dill pickles, hand-cut fries - crisp on the outside, densely potato within, and lightly salted, and "sweet slaw." Having never been a Coleslaw fan in the past I decided to taste the slaw and I have to say I was impressed. Not creamy or heavy like most traditional versions the overarching flavor of this version was that of cabbage, carrot, onion, and peppery vinegar with a hint of apple and sugar. Cole slaw is still certainly not my first option in vegetables, but Melt's was one of the better versions I've had.



Moving onto the sandwiches and beginning first with my Aunt, a fan of the plain and unadventurous, her selection was entitled Porky Cheese and it featured Honey ham, Crisp bacon, and Swiss cheese (though I admittedly tried to convince her to get it with an egg she resisted.) Featuring hefty slices of white bread, well buttered and grilled perfectly, surrounding a sweet yet savory amalgam of ham, Swiss, and salty bacon I must say it was more nuanced than it reads. With the bacon adding some crunch and the creaminess of the Swiss balancing the ham the overall effect was almost akin to a croque monsieur though not quite as refined (let’s face it, Swiss just doesn't hold a candle to gruyere.) With that said, a very serviceable and delicious sandwich.



For my mother's selection she apparently felt so fondly about her first experience at Melt that she ordered the same thing again - but this time, for a $2 surcharge, Sophia suggested she get it deep fried. Entitled PB and Banana the sandwich featured the same hefty white bread as my Aunt's, but this time was slathered with fresh made peanut butter and sweetened cream cheese served alongside a cup of mixed berry preserves. "Mmmmm-ing" from her first bite I must say it would be hard to say she made the wrong choice - even if I am all about trying new things - as the sandwich was glorious. With the bread first griddle fried and then dunked in a tempura-esque batter before a quick dunk in the deep frier the sandwich came out piping hot with ripe bananas, liquid peanut butter and mascarpone-sweet cream cheese filling every bite. Tasty on its own and only improved by a dunk in the delectable fruit puree of raspberry/strawberry/blackberry the crisp bread married perfectly with the creamy interior forming a nut butter sandwich only rivaled by Keller's Cashew Butter and Apricot Compote on Brioche at Bouchon.



For my selection at Melt I went with the monthly special - the Corny Beast. Opting for the vegetarian version as I don't eat beef my plate contained two enormous cornbread battered and deep fried "sandwich halves" with a wooden stick in each. Contained in the beautiful golden shell was griddled white bread sandwiched around a well charred and excellently textured vegan corndog split and surrounded by double American Cheese - cheese so densely packed that it was leaking out of the batter. Without a doubt this is the best thing one can do with a hotdog (or a tofu-dog as it were) and aside from the fact that the cheese was wonderful, the cornbread was even better. Served with a Chipotle Ketchup that was not really needed but certainly added another level to the "sandwich" the entire effect was smoky yet savory, crunchy yet creamy. While this dish may be only available for a limited time if I were Melt I'd keep that cornbread batter around for appetizers and more sandwiches in the future (Perch or perhaps Oyster or Shrimp - maybe a Po'Boy?).....or how about a cornbread waffle with fried chicken on the brunch menu?



Having skipped breakfast there was certainly room for dessert - at least for myself (the family was stuffed.) With bread pudding ranking as my very favorite way to finish a meal I declined on Melt's oft celebrated fried twinkies and went with their dessert special of the day - Fudge Brownie Caramel Pecan Bread Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream. Featuring a thick and fudgy brownie as the base/crust the dish was topped with a well saturated slab of warm and buttery bread pudding laced with ribbons of caramel and fudge and crunchy pecans adding texture. With two large Pepperidge Farm Chocolate Goldfishes and ample whipped cream alongside the steaming hot dish was topped with a hefty scoop of creamy ice cream and drizzles of fudge. Rich, hearty, large, and whimsical I very much liked the dish and although it was not as refined as many of my favorite bread puddings in the past the flavor and balance was excellent.



Finishing dessert and settling the modest bill we thanked Sophia for the truly excellent food and service before making our way to the door. Having dined at many of the best restaurants in the United States as well as many of the most famous houses of kitschy yet delectable food I can absolutely recommend Melt as a MUST visit for anyone visiting Cleveland. As one would expect from their cult local following (see the tattoo contest) and expanding empire Melt does it right - from food to service to setting. On their website Melt's owner and chef Matt Fish states that he wanted the restaurant to feel like family, but also wanted eating there to feel like an event - I'd say he succeeded on both counts.

Slow's Bar-B-Q, Detroit MI

Okay – I’ll admit it, I’m not the person best qualified to judge barbeque food; I rarely eat it and my experience with barbeque outside of things we made on the grill at home is limited to a few specific occasions – few of which are memorable for good reasons. With that said, I do like to think I know something about dining out, good food, great service, and a nice setting – all of which I was told I’d find at Slow’s, a relatively new school bar-b-q (est. 2005) joint largely removed from the downtown business sector of Detroit. Arriving at the Corktown establishment in the midst of a torrential downpour shortly after opening to find the restaurant absolutely packed I luckily nabbed a table in the main dining room near a window where I’d sit and be amused by myriad patrons running from their car to pick up an innumerable number of takeout orders - obviously others had heard the good word about Slows, as well.

Greeted promptly by a friendly young man named Jarvis who appeared to be working the whole main room I asked a couple of questions (specifically whether a substitution on the Big Three – Catfish instead of Brisket) and placed my order. A moment or two passed while my server made sure the substitution could be allowed (a $2 surcharge) and my water was filled – it remained filled and I was checked in on frequently both before and after my food arrived. Sitting back and listening to the overhead speakers as they poured forth jazz and blues ranging from Robert Johnston to Charlie Parker to BB King I have to say I loved the vibe of Slows and the table spacing was more than adequate to prevent feeling crowded or hearing all but the loudest of speakers (thankfully “that guy” was seated across the room near the bathrooms.)

Approximately 20 minutes passed before my meal arrived – and what a meal it was. Beginning with the sides – 2 were included with the entrée and the third ordered because I couldn’t settle on just two – my first taste at Slow’s was their much celebrated Macaroni and Cheese. Featuring a crunchy (and just short of burnt – in a good way) cheddar crust and shell noodles that were much akin to dumplings in texture I must say that the dish lived up to the hype – while not “gourmet” by any means, the manner in which the creamy yet sharp cheddar was brought to a peak by hefty notes of black pepper and paprika was fantastic.

My second side, the cornbread, was the only “miss” at Slow’s – and a pretty substantial miss, unfortunately. Dry, flavorless, and even with the packet-butter the cornbread was grainy at best. Using the cornbread largely to soak up the juices from the proteins on my plate and to taste the various barbeque sauces I will admit it was slightly better with added hydration, but certainly not good enough to warrant the $2.25 pricetag for such a meager slice.

The final side dish was my personal favorite of the three – the sweet potato mash. Featuring heavy notes of cinnamon, maple, butter, and cream the potatoes had a pleasant heterogeneous quality indicating hand mashing and they worked great on their own – but even moreso with the proteins.

Moving on to the main course my first taste was Slow’s interpretation of Carolina Style Pulled Pork. Featuring Neiman Ranch Pork butt, slow cooked until falling off the bone, and a multitude of spices I won’t even attempt to venture a guess at I have to say the meat was much less fatty than I anticipated – it was also much less “wet” than pulled pork I’ve tasted in the past – both of which were very agreeable to the palate. Tasting the pork on its own I loved the manner in which the smoky tones accented the savory meat and these flavors were only heightened by the addition of the multiple sauces, my favorite of which was certainly the apple as it tasted like the very essence of green apple, hickory, and cinnamon – sweet, but not overpowering, and perfect with the pork.

Moving on to the chicken, another slow smoked option but featuring a clearly different blend – more savory and less spicy – than the pork, my first bite was a revelation in that this was some of the best non-fried skinless chicken I’ve ever tasted. Moist and tender, meaty without being chewy, and although lacking the textural contrast of the crispy skin featuring a through-and-through juiciness that was plenty succulent without the addition of any sauce at all. While I personally would have loved a bit more contrast, it is hard to argue that something done so well could be done better.

My final taste of the meal was the Alabama Farm Raised Catfish in Cornmeal tempura with creole remoulade and aside from the remoulade (which tasted like fire mixed with vinegar) this dish was another beauty. Clean and flavorful the mild catfish was complimented nicely by the hefty sweetened cornmeal crust forming what can best be described as a haute-fishstick. Wonderful on its own I found that the fish paired very nicely with the “spicy” sauce, the thicker of the various sauces at Slow’s, featuring mild “heat” but more-so notes of cumin, paprika, and cayenne.

Upon wiping my plate clean with the rest of my cornbread Jarvis stopped by yet again to check up on me and ask if I’d like dessert or anything else. Already with plans for a dessert stop I declined, mostly because the options on Slow’s online menu didn’t seem all that appealing and the only item I saw delivered to a table, presumably the Chuck Norris, was entirely too big for one person after so much food. Settling the tab I was bid farewell by no less than four servers and upon making my way to the street a quick jog across Michigan Avenue led me to my car (free parking aplenty in Corktown.) At $29 (tax and a good tip included) Slow’s certainly isn’t bargain basement barbeque – but then again, with high quality preparations and names like Neiman Ranch on the menu you shouldn’t expect bargain basement bar-b-q – Slow’s is a whole lot better than that.