Bonjour Brioche, Toronto ON Canada

Let me be the first to admit that I am a big fan of French bistro-style breakfasts - I rank Keller's Bouchon and Francois Payard's options as well as Butler and the Chef amongst my favorite breakfast/brunch spots of all time. With those things noted and the fantastic reviews of Bonjour Brioche listed on myriad Toronto review sites the decision for Sunday Breakfast was easy - especially since Bonjour is closed on Mondays. Staying only a half-mile west of BB's Queen East location and waking as early as ever I first decided to go for a run in order to build up an appetite and then after a quick shower I found myself at the restaurant's side entrance only 5 minutes after the doors opened at 8am.

Making my way into the small space I was surprised to find the restaurant already half full - and by the time I left at 9:00 there was already a line of 10 waiting outside. Taking a seat near the window I browsed the small shop's interior which features approximately 15 tables, a delectable looking pastry case, a chalkboard of specials, and a small coffee cart full of newspapers and magazines - towards the back was a kitchen with doors wide open where one could see two chefs working dough while another manned the grill. Greeted by my pleasant server I received the small menu and coffee was poured (this time only equal was available, unlike A+U's where only splenda can be found.) A relatively standard blend for which I was originally double charged I must admit that given the plethora of coffee shops in Toronto, the restaurant coffees could use some work.

Browsing the specials I have to admit some sounded interesting - particularly the chorizo bread pudding and the fig tart, but given the wonderful sounding options on the standard menu I instead opted for one sweet and one savory. Placing my orders and receiving a refill on my coffee I picked up a copy of one of the local music magazines and read until my orders arrived - only approximately 15 minutes, impressively, given the hustle-bustle of the restaurant. Served piping hot and direct from the kitchen my server asked if I needed anything else and after getting a glass of water and a third mug of coffee I was left to enjoy.

Starting with the savory - a small but succulent croque madame was presented and featured a few thin slices of black forest ham and Gruyere cheese atop a buttery brioche and topped with a single fried egg. Adequate but certainly nothing to write home about the dish was largely a success due to the quality of the brioche while the other ingredients did their job merely adequately. Served along with the sandwich was a very nice green salad topped with a mild oil and vinegar. Having had incredible croques at Bouchon, B+C, and Payard I have to say I'd not order this sandwich again or recommend it to others - it was simply too ordinary and small.

Somewhat disappointed by the croque I next delved into the Baked French Toast - and I most certainly was not disappointed. Having had a number of excellent French Toasts - both "normal" and "bread pudding style" - in the past couple years I can say without a shadow of a doubt that this ranks in the top three along with the version at Brenda's French Soulfood in San Francisco and that at The Country Club at the Wynn in Vegas. Featuring the same buttery brioche as the croque but absolutely saturated with cinnamon and an eggy custard the toast was served with a wonderfully flavorful and warm side of pure Canadian Maple syrup and the layers of flavor simply melted together forming a singular flavor that harkened a cinnamon bun, but better. Crisp on the outside, spongy within and ample in portion due to the density and decadence I slowly enjoyed this dish and rather wished I'd have opted for two sweets instead of the croque - really, an astounding dish showing that when done right something "simple" can actually be sublime.

After the great French toast I briefly considered picking up some pastries for later in the day but instead decided to show some restraint given my later eating plans. Paying the modest bill after the double coffee-charge was removed I was pleasantly surprised that I felt in no way rushed to pay the bill or leave despite the line. Finishing up an article in the paper about The Swell Season I made my way to the door and was bid farewell by two of the servers who appropriately offered a au revoir from Bonjour.

Bymark, Toronto ON Canada

When planning my visit to Toronto I knew I’d have time for three breakfasts, three lunches, and two dinners – a fan of unique experiences and avant-garde cuisine I knew Colborne Lane would be one of my dinners and the other was a tossup between the who’s who of Toronto dining – Splendido, North 44, Scaramouche, Trevor, George, and Auberge all got significant consideration – but in the end the decision was made to visit North 44’s sister restaurant, Bymark. Featuring a unique menu focused strongly on Canadian sourced ingredients and a number of options, both sweet and savory, that seemed to challenge “the norm” I contacted Bymark nearly a month before my planned trip and inquired as to whether a tasting menu was available so that I might experience as many dishes as possible. Fielding my e-mail in less than eight hours restaurant manager Jessica Sloan informed me that while the restaurant did not offer a nightly tasting the chef would be “delighted” to craft a menu to my liking if I informed him of which dishes interested me most – an offer I was more than happy to take them up on. Informing the kitchen of my likes and dislikes I was quoted a price for my selected menu and confirmed my reservation for one at 7:30pm on Saturday evening.

Arriving approximately ten minutes early at the Dominon Bank Towers I had no difficulty finding the restaurant and on checking in with the hostess I was welcomed warmly with an offer to check my jacket – an offer I declined as I rather prefer dining in a suit when the opportunity presents. Without delay I was met by a second hostess who then led me to my table in the middle of the main dining room and soon I was met my one of my two servers from the evening who presented the wine list, filled my water, and assured me that all was prepared for my requested menu. Browsing around the room I was impressed by the heavy wooden layout of the room and well sourced overhead lighting but was admittedly a bit taken aback by the level of noise coming from a large party of sixteen – a party that was fortunately transported to the private dining room when my neighbors (apparently regulars and certainly high maintenance given their multiple requests from the server throughout the evening) complained. Once the noise died down I have to admit that setting and service were excellent albeit a tad aloof and perhaps a little overburdened by the myriad requests from my neighbors.

Getting things started, my first dish was an amuse from the kitchen – a Lobster, apple, and crème fraiche “taco” served on a beet tortilla. Featuring an ample amount of fresh lobster accented by sweet gala apples and tamed by the tangy crème this dish was excellent when paired with the crispy and earthy-yet-sweet beet chip. Small, fun, inventive, and delicious – an excellent way to start things off.

My first proper course of the evening was perhaps the only near-miss of the evening for myself (and a total miss for my neighbors who took one bite before returning it to the kitchen.) Entitled calamari and octopus salad with carrot, chorizo and chili citrus dressing this was not an item for the faint of heart – or those with heartburn. Featuring a sizable portion of circular cut cephalopod “noodles” (akin to Blackbird or Scarpetta) mixed with similarly cut carrots, the textures of the seafood were wonderful while the meaty chorizo provided an ample foil to the briny flavors of the sea. Unfortunately most of the nuance of the seafood was lost due to the overpowering dressing which tasted like an admixture of fire and sour. Thankfully served with a refill of my water and the table bread (an unremarkable olive and white, plus a very good multigrain) I was able to navigate this dish but very much do feel a more gentle hand with the spices would greatly benefit the otherwise excellent quality and presentation of this dish.

Dish two of the evening was everything dish one was not – brilliant, balanced, and a smashing success to both the palate and the eyes. Deemed “Open faced foie gras “B.L.T.” with fried quail egg and spiced stone fruit” this dish – right down to the quotation marks – reminded me of something you would expect to see at Keller’s French Laundry. Featuring a lovely piece of seared foie pan fried with peach compote and cinnamon stacked atop a piece of brioche, the dish was finished with a crispy piece of Berkshire bacon, thin sliced tomato and butter lettuce, and topped with a fried quail egg. Poured over top of the sandwich were the natural pan juices from the preparation. Unctuous and succulent as always the foie’s taste was perfectly complimented by the seasonings while the crisp bacon, buttery brioche, and lettuce added texture. Interestingly, despite the creaminess of the liver itself another layer was added by the addition of the egg – something I had not experienced before but quite excellent to say the least.

Dish three of the evening was the restaurant’s signature – and a dish every bit worth the title. Crisp frites with butter braised lobster and classic béarnaise - poutine style was actually delivered to my table by the chef du cuisine and featured approximately 20 crisp frites stacked inside a lobster shell and absolutely loaded with butter poached lobster. Topping the dish was a creamy béarnaise sauce with high notes of lemon and butter plus more nuanced flavors of wine and onion. Whereas the dressing on the salad mired the flavor of the dish, the béarnaise on this dish only served to accent the wonderful lobster and crispy-salty fries. Say what you will about “haute-poutine,” this dish was wonderful and alone worth the trip to Bymark – though I do wonder whether the average diner could finish a full sized portion as the tasting portion was so decadent.

Prior to beginning the “main courses” of the meal I was brought a palate cleansing sorbet – a nice touch. Described as a house made cherry sorbet with lime-peel the icy ball was intensely tangy and very refreshing. While I’ve never seen a sorbet served between appetizers and mains (usually it arrives pre-dessert) I actually liked this placement in the meal as the next dishes were less “fatty” or “creamy” and more focused on nuance, spice, and contrast of flavors.

The fourth dish of the evening was presented quite elegantly by my server and finished tableside. Entitled duck confit ravioli with chestnut puree, crisp parsnip and spiced cranberries I was served a single plump raviolo absolutely packed with clove and nutmeg accented duck leg and topped with a crispy garnish of fried parsnip. Served alongside and overtop the pasta was a creamy sweet-yet-earthy chestnut puree plus cinnamon sweetened cranberries with a mild alcoholic tang. Featuring aspects of protein and carb, sweet and earthy, creamy and acidic this dish was truly excellent and when I saw my neighbor order the full portion (three large ravioli plus all the fixings) I was actually quite impressed at the menu price, as well. Speaking of my neighbors, it was at this point of the meal that they began their somewhat demanding behavior once again asking my server how I was getting so many different dishes and “what made me so special?” They also demanded of myself how I was able to eat so much – the third time that had happened that day.

Dish five was another experiment in blending the sea with the earth and much like the octopus salad it was not perfect, but it was quite good. Titled giant prawn with soupy chorizo sausage risotto the dish featured an extremely large and fresh prawn that had clearly been poached and then grilled served standing upright in a small pool of creamy risotto with chorizo chunks and sausage foam. While the risotto itself was absolutely well prepared with only a slight degree of toothiness and the sausage soup quite mild, the prawn itself was largely overcooked and even somewhat difficult to cut with the combination of fork and butter knife. While tasty, I honestly considered sending this dish back for a better prepared prawn but unfortunately my server was otherwise occupied with the neighboring table who continued to ask questions regarding my menu, whether there were any desserts with no cream, butter, or milk products, etc. While certainly not bad, I do think a gentler hand would have benefited the execution of this dish – nothing harms great seafood like too much heat.

My final savory of the evening was the roasted Cornish Hen with roasted Brussels sprouts, potato gnocchi and natural reduction – it was remarkable. Perfectly seared and succulent the meaty hen simply shredded off the bone with minimal effort and no knife. Accompanying the hen were two halved and pan-caramelized Brussels sprouts and two large plump gnocchi that easily gave way to their creamy interiors on mastication – these items as well as the hen were topped with the natural reduction from the hen and sprouts and the whole dish was succulent, salty, and well balanced between creamy and crispy textures as well as pungent and smooth flavors.

Finishing up my savories I was offered coffee or a cheese selection and after declining both and chatting with my neighbors for a few moments I was presented with a trio of miniature desserts – specifically the Chocolate Caramel Tart with Peanut Butter Mousse and Caramel Corn, the Passion Fruit Creme Brulee, and the Cinnamon Bun Tower with Frangelico Icing. Starting first with the crème brulee as I anticipated it to be my least favorite I have to say I was mildly impressed by the manner in which the passion fruit shined through but as usual I was underwhelmed – crème brulee simply tastes like sugar to me. My second taste of the trio was the cinnamon bun tower – a dish I was excited by in its description but largely unimpressed by in its flavors. With a notable alcoholic hue provided by the Frangelico, I found the overall effect of the dish to be not much like a cinnamon bun but more like butterscotch. Perhaps a larger portion would have been better or perhaps the accoutrements on the solo dessert would have helped. The final taste of the evening was provided by the Chocolate Tart and where the other desserts failed to impress, the tart shined. Tasting somewhat akin to dark chocolate Snickers bar in a pastry shell I particularly found the addition of the caramel corn delicious and playful – if I returned I’d opt for the full sized version of this instead of the trio.

When it was all said and done I paid the bill - $120 Canadian and felt the meal was actually a relatively good bargain for the quality of the food, setting, and accommodations by the staff. While service was adequate I have to say that my server’s tongue ring did seem a bit out of place for fine dining and though I certainly can’t blame her for my neighbors, I do feel that if she’d have been less involved with their “issues” she’d have inquired more frequently as to how I was enjoying everything. A talented kitchen staff with some unique ideas, I do feel that some dishes were not executed as well as one would expect while other dishes could use some tweaking to more properly highlight the quality of the ingredients and the chef’s vision – particularly the cinnamon bun tower and the octopus salad. That said – I’d return in a heartbeat for the poutine, the foie, and the ravioli. I’d additionally strongly suggest to the kitchen that a daily, weekly, or even monthly tasting menu to let the chef flex his creativity would be a great idea.

Lai Wah Heen, Toronto ON Canada

After a great visit to the AGO with an old friend it was time for lunch. Originally trying to decide between Moroco’s Brunch and Lai Wah Heen’s Dim Sum Lunch we decided on Dim Sum as I’d already had plenty of sweets for breakfast and I’d heard from reliable sources that Chef Chan’s dim sum was some of the best available outside of the mainland of China. Having been largely underwhelmed by my previous experience with Dim Sum (admittedly a cheap experience more than three years ago) I honestly wasn’t sure what to expect as we made our way into the Metropolitan Hotel and inquired on the restaurant’s location at the front desk. Informed that the restaurant was tucked away on the second floor we made our way up the stairs and shortly found ourselves waiting at the hostess station.

Greeted promptly by a friendly young Chinese woman we were asked if we had reservations and when we responded to the negative we were told this was “not a problem at all” and swept away to a table in the main dining room – a beautiful two top near the stairs and adjacent to the large bay windows with an excellent view of the street and the room. Browsing the immediate dining area as we were presented with our menus, water, and a pot of green tea I was impressed by the mixed population – older, younger, Chinese, Canadian, businessmen and families were all represented in large numbers and the room had a “buzz” without being loud.

Instructed on how to order from the check-cards by our server my friend and I slowly went through the arduous process of deciding how best to experience the maximal amount of tastes without being too full to walk out – a process that easily took twenty minutes and a few glasses of water, but a time during which no pressure was imposed by our servers who were happy to answer any questions. Orders placed the young lady tried to tell us that we’d ordered too much – the second time (of three, actually) that day someone questioned my ability to eat – and I assured her we would be okay.

Ordering on separate checks (or cheques for Canadian readers) but sharing almost everything we ordered, the first item was the only non-dim sum option – an $18 pick off the appetizer section of the menu. Simply titled pan-seared foie gras with asparagus, dressed with sweet ginger sauce the dish came exactly as advertised. Featuring a modest slice of seared foie that was perfectly veined and cleaned, nicely poached asparagus, and a thickened sweet ginger sauce the dish didn’t really re-invent the wheel, but instead focused on flawless preparations of each ingredient with the unctuous liver contrasting nicely with the crisp vegetable and offset by the sweet pungency of the ginger. Simple and effective albeit somewhat unimaginative and difficult to consume without a knife to cut the asparagus.

Following the appetizer dish ensued an onslaught of dim sum options, each beautifully presented by any number of servers and eventually amounting to a substantial amount of food on the table. Ordered by my companion and untasted by myself were the steamed calamari with black pepper sauce, the steamed Lobster dumpling with shrimp and diced vegetables, butter, and garlic and the Steamed dumpling of Waygu beef accompanied with thinly sliced Waygu beef, in chili oil – a dish that led her to make an uncanny number of “food sounds” clearly indicating her love of the dish.

Ordered by myself and consumed either solo or shared with my companion – well, there was a heck of a lot of food. Kicking things off, from Chef Chan’s “Innovative” menu, a steamed dumpling of smoked sturgeon, shrimp and minced butter squash and a steamed crystal purse filled with five spicy shredded duckling & heart of garlic. If the measure of a chef’s skill in dim sum is gauged by the creativity, flavor, and thinness of his noodles then I’ve no doubt we were in the presence of a master – the translucent noodles alone were works of art with my friend’s lobster featuring the crustacean’s characteristic shape and the sturgeon presented as a small fish while the purse did appear to be a tied-off bag. More impressive than the appearance, however, were the textures and flavors of the dumplings with the mildness of the sturgeon perfectly complimented by the sweetness of the squash and the spicy anise/clove/ginger bite of the five spice duck proving an adequate foil to the pungent and sweet heart of garlic. While certainly not “cheap,” the quality of the ingredients was apparent and I’d gladly re-order each dish again.

Following the “innovative” were the “Lai Wah Heen Classics,” each served in groups of three. Starting with the baked mini puff pastry filled with cured ham, shrimp & pork and the Steamed Pork Buns I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the pork and the degree of saltiness of both options – a clearly Chinese interpretation of steamed pork featuring familiar flavors of allspice and cinnamon. While the Buns were decent, I personally found them a tad pedestrian compared to what Chang is doing in New York City and the overall flavor was vastly inferior to the puff pastries with their sweet and crisp shell proving a much more adequate mode of delivery for the savory proteins than the bland moist buns. Significantly less expensive than the options from the Innovative menu these two options were actually quite filling.

The next round of dishes were again served in threes, yet somewhat more interesting than the pork dishes. The first dish, Deep-fried taro root paste dumpling filled with sweet plum & minced duckling was an absolutely astonishing dish that my companion summed up as “light, but really dense.” Featuring a crispy and airy taro root shell absolutely stuffed with an amalgam of chopped plums and minced duck I have to say that this may have been my favorite flavor pairing of the afternoon and it honestly could’ve served as a dessert or a savory – an absolute must order. The second option, Filet of bass & thousand years egg in rice roll served with sweet soy sauce. Having never tasted the unique egg-preserving technique prior to this I have to say I didn’t know what to expect, but what I received was superb. Mildly salty and somewhat sour the egg proved a balance to the smooth and meaty bass while the sweetened soy brought out the flavors of both the egg and the fish without masking any of their more subtle notes.

More or less stuffed at this point we opted for only one small dessert – traditional Chinese Egg Custards. Served as four small 1/2oz tarts the custards were barely set with the buttery pasty and only a thin skin of custard preventing the creamy vanilla egg compote from being a liquid – absolutely delicious and flawlessly executed – a great end to a wonderful meal.

Making our way to the exit after paying the somewhat impressive bill (I mean, Dim Sum isn’t supposed to be “haute cuisine” normally) we took a look at some of the party menus and both agreed that Lai Wah Heen would be an awesome place to return with a larger group in order to sample some of the noodle and rice dishes (normally intended for parties of 4-6 according to the menu) as well as the myriad soups and entrees. Thoroughly satiated and happy we made our way out the doors where our hostess bid us farewell. While I can’t say I’m a dim sum expert by any stretch, I can say I’ve been to some great restaurants and would rank Lai Wah Heen’s presentations, flavors, and service favorably amongst many of them.

Nadege Patisserie and Aunties and Uncles, Toronto ON Canada

Making my first trip to Toronto in over two years for the Hall of Fame Game and Hockey Hall of Fame Induction gala I was excited to make my first visit as an epicure who actually has the money to experience the best of Toronto’s cuisine. Arriving early en route from Buffalo on Saturday with plans for Brunch at Auntie’s and Uncles, I first wanted to check out some French pastries and my GPS led me straight to the doors of Nadege. Entering the shop just after 7:30 the team was hard at work in the open back kitchen while a single small woman with a pronounced French accent was placing items in the cases.

Stark, bright, and even perhaps “chic” the layout of the café was clearly designed not to evoke that contrived “bistro-feel” that places such as Payard evoke, but rather to focus one’s eyes on the colorful treats filling the cases – more gallery than restaurant. Browsing the sandwiches and chocolates I will admit that they looked tempting, but I was there for the sweets. Asking for descriptions of a couple items I settled on two macarons, an almond croissant, and something I’d never seen before – an homage of sorts to the macaron enitled “Marie Antoinette.” Paying the modest bill I thanked the clerk and made my way to the park to indulge.

Beginning with the croissant, the only word that comes to mind is wow. A perfect buttery crust, crispy exterior with a great yield of fluffiness inside, and plenty of nuance provided by the almonds, almond extract, and powdered sugar. While not quite as stunning as the version at Payard, the texture was spot on and easily ranks as the best croissant I’ve had in the last year.

Following the croissant I decided to sample the “simple” macarons before diving into the haute-macaron. Talking to the young clerk I learned that Nadege imports both the almond flour and most of the fillings for their 10 daily macarons and although I wanted to “compare” them to some of my other experiences, the unique selections were just too good to pass up – thus I went with one “known” and one “totally unknown.” The first, cappuccino, was essentially Nadege’s version of coffee – and a stunning version at that. Featuring a light crumb and potent coffee filling, the shells were perfectly baked with a crisp snap yielding a pillowy cookie of flavor – every bit on par with those at La Maison du Chocolate in New York in flavor and lagging only minimally in texture. The second macaron, Olive Oil, was very unique and quite similar to the cappuccino in the cookie, but nothing like it in filling. Featuring a smooth and buttery filling with just a hint of sweetness the cookie was like the essence of olive oil – a cookie version of Batali’s heavenly gelato at Otto.

My final selection, the Marie Antoinette, was essentially a rose macaron topped with a large dollop of creamy custard and then spotted with a multitude of mini-macaron cookies. Selecting a small instead of the larger cake version this item was approximately three bites large and absolutely wonderful – almost a blend of a macaron and an éclair – with the high notes of the rose macaron most notable, but also the sweetness of each of the mini-macarons coming through as well.

Having read about Chef Nourian’s pedigree and recent arrival from Paris I expected good things and most certainly was not let down – on a whole the macarons were nearly as good as La Maison, the croissant one of the best to ever grace my palate, and the Marie Antoinette a beautiful take on a classic dessert. While $11 for my selections did seem a tad steep at first, the price was definitely justified by the quality and it left me plenty of room for dessert after a walk through Kensington en route to A+U’s.

Arriving at Auntie’s and Uncles kitschy little store approximately 10 minutes before opening I was glad to see that there was no line – given some of the reviews I expected something like Dottie’s True Blue Café with people lined up 20 deep at opening. As the doors opened up myself and two others made our way in and were allowed to sit “wherever we like” – approximately ten minutes later every single seat in the place was full and a small line had formed. Handed a menu as I walked in I was oddly seated for nearly 15 minutes before orders were taken and coffee offered because two of the employees were actually sitting at a table eating their breakfast – not exactly professional, especially for a place so busy.

Once orders were finally placed I have to admit I liked AU’s design and concept – incredibly fresh food cooked right in front of the customers and a set menu plus daily specials based on the cook’s whim. Coffee was served quickly once my server finally finished up my meal, but unfortunately the only sweetener options were splenda and plain sugar – call me crazy but I quite like Equal. Coffee was adequate but certainly not designer – a relatively acidic blend no better than Tim Horton’s – and refills were slow.

Arriving only ten minutes after I placed my orders, both plates were brought together and both were piping hot and fresh from the kitchen. Having spent the duration of the wait discussing the irony of my neighboring diners being Torontonian basketball fans and myself an Ohioan hockey fan I had to laugh when my neighbor stated that I “ordered too much” and that there was “no way I’d be able to eat all that” – he didn’t even know about Nadege. Having selected one sweet and one savory, a “special” and a “menu item” I figured I’d have a nice sampling of what Auntie’s kitchen could do.

Beginning first with the sweet special, Banana Ricotta Pancakes with cinnamon, fruit, and pure maple syrup – these were excellent. Having had ricotta pancakes once in the past and being largely impressed by the moist pockets of cheese but not sold on the cake texture, Auntie’s and Uncles offering was vastly superior to the last incarnation with a light and airy dough laden with caramelized cinnamon bananas and perfectly complimented by the somewhat bitter yet bold maple syrup. While I’d have preferred the syrup warm this small oversight didn’t hurt the dish and I was glad the kitchen didn’t make the choice to slather the dish with butter like so many others do.

The second dish, a menu “savory” that I’d read rave reviews of honestly didn’t fare as well as the pancakes. Entitled Grilled Brie with Pear Chutney and Walnuts on Challah, I honestly found the dish relatively lacking in flavor. While the bread was beautiful with a mild sweetness coming through the buttery grilled exterior, the pears were largely flavorless (strange given the season,) and the timid brie was vastly overwhelmed by the bitter/earthy walnuts. Well prepared, no doubt, and improved with the addition of some of the syrup from my pancakes, but definitely not something I’d order again – a sad statement considering my love of brie, pears, and grilled cheese in general.

All told I guess I just don’t get the fuss about Auntie’s and Uncles aside from the “cult appeal.” While the pancakes were indeed excellent, the fact that they were a menu special does not assure them to be available daily and the overall “aloofness” of the servers was rather off-putting. Mediocre coffee, an average sandwich, a limited menu (and don’t even get me started on the bathroom)…while I don’t regret the trip and mostly did enjoy my breakfast at Auntie’s and Uncles, in hindsight I’d have rather spent my money on some more of Nadege’s delicacies.

Craftsteak (2,) Las Vegas NV

My blog in September of 2008 ended something like this. “All told, the food was excellent, though not any better than steakhouses like Nero's and Mastro's where I can get what I ask for. From a chef that demands perfection, I felt Craftsteak was anything but perfect and in a city with hundreds of hundred-plus-dollar meal options it would be very difficult for me to justify a return visit. While I certainly didn't expect the exquisite service of Le Cirque or Alex, I do expect my server to treat me with respect and do his/her best to make my experience memorable.”

As previously stated, after complaining to the GM (at that time a Mr. Jason Bartucci) with hopes that future visitors would not deal with such service we were provided a profound apology and an offer to refund the cost or to come back for a compensatory meal on the house – at the time I declined these options but on further review, a year after many fine dining experiences, I reconsidered. In a city with so many great options I would not generally be the sort to ‘forgive and forget,’ but returning with my two friends – both who love steak – and remembering how good the food was I made contact with the restaurant through the MGM website. While Mr. Bartucci (and our server) had apparently since been dismissed from the restaurant, my e-mail was answered by the new General Manager, Sebastien Vallet, who invited the three of us back for the chef’s tasting with wine pairings on the house.

Arriving just before 9pm, once again clad in hockey jerseys and jeans following a fantastic Frozen Fury XII at the MGM Arena, we made our way through the waiting crowd (a 2 hour wait for persons without reservations) to the podium where the hostess confirmed our reservations and personally escorted us to a booth in the back, chatting casually about the Kings and Avs eating at Craftsteak the night before as we walked. Again the restaurant lighting remained super low – something I consider unfortunate given the attractive appearance of the dishes, but the seats were again incredibly comfortable. Taking our seats we were almost instantly met by Mr. Vallet, a gregarious and friendly man in a great looking grey suit (vastly differing from the black/white clad servers,) who promised us a fantastic meal and confirmed that I did not eat beef while my friends most certainly did.

Within moments our waters were filled – bottled water without even requesting, and our server and his assistant came to our table to once again confirm likes, dislikes, and anything we may need. In order to not belabor service issues too much I will note a couple of issues here that, despite their obviously being overly attentive to our table, were less than impressive. First, while Sebastien stopped by multiple times, our server spent vastly more time at a table of well clad businessmen while the assistant served as our primary server throughout. While not “unfriendly” our assistant’s grasp of the English language was poor at best, wines were not described as presented, and this was officially the only restaurant on my trip to Vegas where I had to fill my own water. Another service issue presented itself later, but otherwise I have to say the team clearly “went out of their way” to please us – yet despite that fact, the service at Mastro’s, CUT, Carnevino, and myriad other fine dining establishments vastly outpaced Craftsteak – their “average” being better than Craftsteak’s “best.”

Similar to our previous visit the menu format consisted of a course of appetizers, a course of mains and sides, and a course of desserts. With the only questions prior to the meal being my distaste for steak and whether “scallops were acceptable” we started off rather quickly with a aromatic 1997 Californian Chardonnay (I had to ask to see the bottle as it was poured in silence.) Not a drinker I have to admit I liked the flavor of this wine and my companions agreed. Arriving shortly after the wine was a pan of their salt-topped butter rolls with additional butter. As good as before these are serviceable rolls for a steakhouse but I’d certainly not write home about them compared to Mastro’s, Cut, or Nero’s myriad options.

Arriving as we chatted and drank our wine the first course of this visit to Craftsteak was two salads and a roasted option - Caesar Salad with Fresh Anchovies, Heirloom Tomatoes with oil and Vinegar, and Roasted Vermont Quail with Vincotto. Beginning with the salad – as my friends don’t enjoy Anchovies I was fortunate to be able to indulge on all three fishes myself – tossed with the creamy Caesar dressing and crisp lettuces this was a good Caesar and the house made croutons were excellent. Following the salad, the tomatoes were as good as the dish last year (the exact same dish, actually) with a mild olive oil and balsamic marinade bringing out the acidic and sweet flavor of each of the 6 varieties. The final appetizer, the quail, was perfectly roasted with crispy skin giving away to supple and savory flesh. Offset with Vincotto and Rosemary plus Thyme the simplicity of this dish allowed the flavor of the meat to shine for itself and showed what excellent ingredient sourcing can do for even the most “simple” presentations.

Finishing our appetizers along with the first wine we again sat for a bit awaiting our second dishes. Browsing around the restaurant I was amazed at how many hockey jerseys were present – clearly not the “business casual” Craftsteak desires. Arriving from our assistant server without any description (approximately 1 minute later our main server showed up to tell us what the dishes were) our mains and sides were served with a red wine of which I’m unfamiliar and neither myself nor JT enjoyed – Brad thought it was decent. Featuring mains of a 16oz Ribeye, a 12oz Skirt, and Divers Scallops with Fennel and sides of Yukon Gold Potatoes, Sweet Corn, and Wood Roasted Asparagus this is where the other service issue came up. As previously noted, I don’t eat steak – that doesn’t mean my buddies do not eat scallops. Featuring only five scallops (we received three of the exact same dish as an appetizer last visit) and my friends each deserving to try at least one I explained to our server that this wasn’t acceptable and, surprisingly, met some resistance – apparently my thin frame made him think I can’t eat. Asking if any other fishes were available I was told only tuna – again the same prep I’d had last year (there was lobster, I saw it on another table, but clearly they weren’t giving this away) and inquiring about birds or pork I was told only chicken (I know they had duck and pork loin, I saw the nightly menu) so I requested the chicken. Consenting, begrudgingly, the server asked if we wanted anything else and I emphatically stated some mushrooms would be nice. While it took about 15 minutes to prepare, the dishes were indeed brought by yet another server – someone who actually smiled (aside from Sebastien.)

Getting into the dishes – well, there were a lot of repeats. The scallops were excellent, buttery, and well prepared once again with the fennel only enhancing the dish, not overwhelming it. A mix of woodsy mushrooms were again simply presented and delectable in taste – oil, garlic, rosemary, and with a particularly excellent lobster mushroom and meaty hen of the woods as highlights. The corn and potatoes were equally simple yet wonderful with the corn almost 'sugar-sweet' and the potatoes velvety, buttery, and wonderful.

Talking about the novel dishes for this visit – well, per usual I set aside my overall distaste for beef when someone tells me a particular cut is amazing. With both my pals bragging the Ribeye I tried a 1/2 piece and a similar cut of the skirt…they tasted pretty much the same, like beef – I still don’t get it – c’est la vie – my friends loved it and that is what matters. For myself, the highlight of the mains was definitively the Crispy Rosemary Chicken – clearly brined and likely rotisseried with subsequent braising in the pan in which it was served the dish was accompanied by a couple sprigs of rosemary and accents of ginger. While not quite as good as the prep at Bouchon earlier in the morning an excellent chicken dish. Pairing the chicken with the garlicky asparagus – perfectly tender yet snappy, was a nice compliment.

Collecting our plates – nothing but bones and a few scoops of potatoes our server commented “wow, you fellas can eat – lets see how you tackle dessert.” With JT already rubbing his belly I figured we’d be leaving some sweets on the table – and I was right. First receiving our final wine pairing, a heavy and sweet dessert wine that I cannot recall (but tasted much like a sauterne) and myself opting for coffee – a decadent and heavily fruit nuanced blend from Kenya that is grown specifically for CraftNYC we sat and waiting for only about 20 minutes before desserts – desserts aplenty – arrived.

Starting first with fruits and sorbets – two plates, one with sorbets of Chocolate, Mango, Orange Basil, and Strawberry and another with fresh fruits - Dates, Asian Pear, Melon, Peaches. Not a fan of the melon or the mango I quite liked everything else – particularly the non-creamy yet decidedly chocolate sorbet and the perfect dates.

Getting onto the four (yes, four) primary desserts – first off, Tom’s signature Cinnamon Monkey Bread with Pecan was as good as ever. Secondly, a unique item I’d not experienced in the past – a chocolate Flan served with fresh whipped cream and a chocolate cookie. Not unlike a chocolate gelatin in texture, yet creamy like an untorched crème brulee both Brad and I liked this a lot while JT thought the texture was “odd.” Next, Vanilla Bean Cheesecake with Blueberries and crème fraiche ice cream was deemed the favorite by both my companions – rich and heavy, not unlike Junior’s in New York, and topped with a sour ice cream that blended perfectly with the sweet berries and mellow cake – it was indeed quite good and a buttery cookie at top and bottom added texture. Finally, my favorite of the dessert - Fig compote with Polenta Shortcake and crème anglaise. Featuring a sweet polenta cake baked crisp atop and soft beneath sitting in a crème anglaise and topped with a port-poached fig compote this dish reminded me of the best fig newton you can imagine – adding a bit of the cinnamon whipped cream from the flan only served to make things better.

When it was all said and done only some melting ice cream and the melon rested on the table – and JT’s mind was blown by the fact that someone taller and skinner than him could eat nearly twice as much as him. Not a “fine diner” JT conceded that Craftsteak was possibly the best meal he’d ever had and despite being very full he was happy. Brad, the same person who dined with me last time at Craftsteak, was also pleased though he noted that the steak he received last time was somewhat better. Myself – I was pleased with the food again, but still less than sold on the service given the fact that they were clearly “doing their best” and still seemed a little less than in-step with other restaurants of their caliber. When it was all said and done Mr. Vallet stopped by to see how everything had been and I told him it was good – because it was. It simply wasn’t “great.” Leaving a nice tip for our service team (perhaps had they known we’d be leaving a good tip the primary server would’ve been more available) we made our way out of Craftsteak for the last time. Impressed enough that I plan to check out Craft the next time I’m in Los Angeles or NYC, Vegas has plenty of other options in the meats market and if I were attending repeats I’d head to CUT or Carnevino first.