Citronelle, Washington DC

In planning the family trip to DC it must be noted that the trip itself was functioning as Christmas, Graduation, and Birthday for me – I worked overnight call for every major holiday this year and as such requested each family member to dine with me somewhere in DC during our visit as my gift – similarly I took them all out for their respective holidays…”stuff” gathers dusts while memories of special times with family last a lifetime. For the final meal of the big three I knew a bit of planning would be necessary – to call my aunt an unadventurous eater would be an understatement. Having heard of the legendary service at Michel Richard’s Citronelle I opted to e-mail ahead to see what could be done for a picky eater and what followed was one of the most impressive displays of hospitality I’ve ever encountered.

Conversing extensively with General Manager and Maitre d' Jean-Jacques Retourné prior to our visit in order to be certain I could enjoy the Promanade Gourmand while my Aunt opted for less food (and less adventure) I was assured “we can definitely do something to that effect” – they even went so far as to offer to let me customize the Gourmand for myself. Delighted with Mr. Retourne’s service and communications we planned for a 7:00pm dinner in the main dining room and arrived early to scope out the Georgetown area. After a short walk we made our way into the Latham Hotel through the Citronelle Bar area, a pleasant space with many folks enjoying cocktails and small bites before being greeted by a host who led us to a great seat overlooking the entire dining room and the enormous and gleaming kitchen.

Moments after seating we were greeted by Jean-Jacques himself – a pleasant man with a long history of serving in Chef Richard’s restaurants and, for all intents and purposes, an expert in the field of hospitality. Pleasant, jovial, and conversant he introduced us to our servers for the evening and presented us with customized menus – 4 courses for my aunt, 9 courses for myself. Already waiting with baited breath we were offered cocktails, an offer we gladly accepted, and we proceeded to order one each – for Aunt Michel's Cosmopolitan with Absolut Citron, Cointreau, Cranberry Juice, Drunken Raspberries and for myself the Bubbly Martini - Absolut Citron, Marinated Cherries, French Champagne. Heavy on the alcohol I must say the house cured fruits added great nuance to the drinks, but for a lightweight like myself they were still a bit “hard.” Sitting back we waited only moments before the grandeur of Citronelle would be on full display.

With napkins folded each time someone rose for the restroom, water filled as if by an invisible hand, and frequent check-ins by everyone from the Maitre d’ to the waiter to the runners the service at Citronelle was beyond reproach – elegance with charm, refined with a sense of humor…much like Chef Richard’s cuisine. To begin, for our Amuses Bouche we were served different items – first for my aunt a trio consisting of Ratatouille Taco, Daikon with Potato and Prosciutto, and a Salmon Mousse Cupcake. Varying textures, temperatures, and a progression of flavors from vegetal to savory to sweet the small taste I had of each was good – and for amuses, each portion was impressive. I particularly loved the cupcake with the small orange salmon eggs atop – akin to a bagel with lox, but more playful and sweet.

For my amuse, on an excellent illuminated “plate” that drew stares from across the room, I was served Asparagus Tartare with Black Truffle and Asparagus , Potato, and Egg Veloute. The first served in an egg cut lengthwise and the second served in a leg cut down the middle, one hot and one cold, one a crunchy salad and the other a creamy and buttery soup. One of the best conceptualized amuses I’ve ever tasted. Served along with the amuses was a crisp sourdough – similar to, but served with creamier and sweeter butter, the version at Central…the bread would be ever replenished, just like the designer bottled water.

Beginning our proper tasting was a plate a piece, aunt receiving larger portions, myself receiving more courses. For Aunt, Goat Cheese Ravioli, Mushroom Broth – simple in title but without a doubt the most shockingly delicious option of the evening. With seven small and creamy Ravioli hidden beneath a “meadow of spring vegetables” the dish was finished tableside with a creamy mushroom broth and smelled like the very essence of earth. Fresh carrots, peppers, zucchini, and celery forming the “meadow,” the flavors came alive with the broth and were well balanced by the creaminess of the cheese.

For my first course I received one of Chef Richard’s signature dishes – the whimsical Lobster Begula Pasta – a pseudo-caviar experience based on a misspelling in the chef’s past. Utilizing small squid ink orzo to form the roe, the warm pasta laid atop a layer of butter poached lobster and poached fresh croutons of brioche for texture. Classic flavors served in a playful manner, even the ice was an effect – they were actually cubes of glass. The effect of the dish – wonderful.

With Aunt resting for a course my next dish was served shortly after our plates were collected – it was perhaps the dish I looked forward to the most of the evening and it did not disappoint. Entitled Foie Gras Roulade with Duck Rillettes the dish itself featured a round disk of foie gras pâté surrounded by a smooth and spicy duck rillet. Heavy and unctuous the Foie was flawlessly prepared and unlike the quail in a jar at Per Se it was expertly balanced with the rillet, neither overshadowing the other. Surrounding the liver and protein was a circle of beet and passion fruit emulsion – sweet but earthy, and laying across the disk was a rice crispy treat…a little sweet, a lot crunchy, a great texture. Served alongside the dish was another surprise, a matching disk of buttery brioche served atop a steaming hot stone.

Halibut with Vegetable Tart, Lobster-Saffron Broth would arrive next for myself – utilizing a firm and clean flavored slice of the mild fish with crispy skin the kitchen once again showed a deft hand with their proteins. Serving to not only enhance but improve the flavor of the mild fish, I was very pleased with the seemingly Indian inspired flavor of the buttery lobster sauce. With a pea pod, peeled tomato, and summer squash thrown in for texture and some vegetal accents I liked the dish even though it wasn’t as exemplary as the prior dishes…when a great piece of well prepared fish is your worst dish of the meal the kitchen is doing something very right.

Arriving next, a larger version for my aunt and the miniature version for myself, would be Michel’s Lobster Burger with Yukon Gold Chips. With well textured and buttery crustacean balanced on a sweet brioche bun with potato tuilles, tomato confit and house-made mayonnaise the burger was every bit as good as advertised – crispy, supple, and decadent to an extreme. The chips – wafer thin – the very essence of butter and salt on a crisp delivery vehicle.

Lamb Rack with Jalapeno-Cumin Sauce would follow the burger – it would prove to redefine the manner in which lamb should be served. The lamb was flawless – a subtle bit of gamey flavor and easily cut with the side of a fork, but when paired with the savory/spicy/pungent/aromatic green sauce at its base it was as if the entire palate was awakened. Interestingly, tasted on its own (dipping some sourdough) the sauce wasn’t as excellent – it was as though it was made to be served with this very piece of lamb. The accompaniments, a crispy sunchoke and parmesan potato crisp were nice, but largely insignificant to the brilliance of the lamb/sauce pairing.

What came next, both my dish and my aunt’s, was the true testament of the kitchen’s skill – one a classic all fancied up, the other not as classic, but every bit as impressive. First, for my aunt, the Chateaubriand, Tater Tots, Mushrooms, Horseradish – a large portion of the most tender beef to ever touch my tongue. Yes, I realize I don’t normally eat beef, but when my aunt (who doesn’t like rare presentations) was ooh-and-aahing a piece of rouge protein I had to see what the fuss was all about. Smoky and savory with an almost ham-like texture the beef melded elegantly with the horseradish spiced seared onions to form a very hearty yet elegant presentation. Alongside the beef was a “cannoli of wild mushrooms” – essentially a crispy potato roll containing an amalgam of blue foot, hen of the woods, and lobster mushrooms – it was perhaps better than the beef. In a side dish – a serving of Richard’s tater tots – essentially pan seared mashed potato cubes with a bit of parmesan.

For my main course, for once a bird following the mammal instead of the other way around, Duck with Roasted Meatballs and Beet-Cinnamon Sauce. A perfect slice of breast with succulent fresh and crispy skin over a thin layer of fat, the duck was paired with crispy potato strings and a trail of fresh beans and vegetables. Like the lamb, the duck was vastly enhanced by the earthy and aromatic sauce – thick, like A1 in texture, the flavor was akin to Poblano mole sauce. Behind the duck were served three small roasted balls of confit duck leg – fatty, smoky, and melting on the tongue.

Becoming somewhat full we were grateful for a break between savories and sweets – watching a table next to us celebrating an anniversary with a giant sparkler cake I had to smile – it is refreshing to see people actually having fun and taking it easy in such a rarefied room. As we chatted a cheese course was delivered featuring four selections; Bonne Bouche Vermont Goat, Triple Cream Brie, Maytag Blue, and Manchego Cheese. Paired with a delectable raisin-pistachio-wheat bread all three were excellent, but I particularly enjoyed the Brie and the Bonne Bouche, a novel cheese to myself full of floral and buttery notes.

More room watching followed before my palate cleanser, the “Egg-ceptional Lemon Meringue” arrived. With lemon yolk over mascarpone white, a white chocolate shell, and a nest of sheared butter-cookies the composite taste when combined was precisely that of a lemon meringue tarte. Cute, clever – a well conceived palate cleanser.

For our desserts proper my aunt received the Napoleon Crème Brulee with a side Crème Brulee Ice Cream and Chocolate Buckshot. Fluffy pasty layered with torched custard the napoleon offered more texture than the traditional dish and was all the better for it. Served over a rich caramel sauce, the Napoleon itself was good. Equally good, and sporting a surprisingly similar flavor to the Napoleon, was a custard textured ice cream with the same delightful chocolate buckshot served at Central.

For my dessert, it was yet another adventure in Chocolates with the nightly Chocolate Degustation. Featuring a milk Chocolate panna cotta with caramel and buckshot, dark chocolate tart with warm raspberry compote, Michel’s Chocolate Bar, and a double Chocolate Cheesecake popsicle…really, how could you go wrong with this dish? Featuring so many different textures, temperatures, styles, and approaches to chocolate – decadence defined.

Arriving with our desserts was a plate of mignardises – four each we received cocoa covered grapes, chocolate-hazelnut operas, sour cherry financiers, and chocolate almond cookies. A great mignardise place I particularly liked the super fresh and sour grapes coated in dense chocolate and cocoa.

Opting against coffee as it was nearing 10:30pm we watched a few more tables snap pictures as sparkler candles burned – the room was full and smiles were everywhere. As Mr. Retourne personally stopped by to ask us if we would like anything else we both thanked him for the wonderful evening and he presented us with copies of the menu to keep. Paying the relatively modest tab and leaving a substantial tip we were led by our server through the kitchen and up the stairs where the door was held open as he wished us a good evening. Looking back on the experience I can only say that Richard’s cookbook is appropriately named “Happiness in the Kitchen” – there wasn’t a moment spent in Citronelle where I wasn’t happy to be there…and more importantly, there wasn’t a moment where it felt like they weren’t genuinely happy to make our evening fantastic.

Jaleo, Washington DC

Having already experienced Zaytinya and Café Atlantico it was only natural that my trip to Washington include some uproar, revelry, and merry-making at Jaleo. Citing that Spanish definition of the word and realizing that this was perhaps José Andrés most well known restaurant I will admit I was at first somewhat hesitant to book reservations – how original could something be that had already been replicated twice? With fears set aside by some assuring word of mouth and an extensive menu that would certainly please all in my family I concluded the worst it could be was generic – and quite frankly, generic and Andres just don’t seem to belong in the same sentence.

Arriving early in the lunch hour we were greeted by the hostess and led to a cozy four-top in the back corner of the restaurant – an odd choice given the fact that there was only one other couple present when we arrived. With the extensive menu of 70+ items and 10 more daily specials presented it was suggested that 2-3 items each would likely suffice and we were left to make decisions. Water sat empty for some time before our waiter, perhaps the most disinterested server since Norma’s in New York – a man named John P arrived. When he finally stopped by he filled water and took drink orders – two Iced teas and two of us sticking with water. Returning with the iced tea he left before we could order…and didn’t return (bear in mind, there were approximately 10 people in the whole restaurant at this point, though it would fill up later.) Eventually catching the eye of another server I gave him a “head nod” and he walked over – explaining the situation orders were quickly taken and later we saw John P taken aside by the dining room manager…service would subsequently improve, though certainly not to the level of Atlantico or Zaytinya.

With orders placed the table bread arrived – a crusty and warm Sourdough paired with a sweet olive oil poured tableside over a whole clove of crushed garlic – an excellent bread with a crust so hefty and crumbly that making a mess was required.

While it took our table nearly 30 minutes to place orders I must say that the speed of preparation and delivery was vastly more efficient – ordering all at once the dishes began to arrive fast, furious, and fresh from the kitchen. Options arriving during the first wave, each with excellent descriptions by a variety of runners, included Flores de calabaza con queso Idiazabal y jamon (Squash Blossoms with Idiazabal Cheese and Ham,) Pan con tomate (Toasted slices of rustic bread brushed with fresh tomato and Pasamontés farmhouse Manchego,) and Manzanas con hinojo y queso Manchego (Sliced apples and fennel salad with Manchego cheese, walnuts and Sherry dressing.) Each featuring a combination of cheese and vegetables I was quite pleased with the Tomato bread and Salad ordered, but I knew I would be – we’d had them both at Bazaar in the past. The most unique item of this round was from the daily specials, the Squash Blossoms with Idiazabal and Ham – unfortunately it was also the worst (and priciest.) Tasting largely like good ham and excellent cheese on toasted bread there was nothing wrong with the sandwich – but from the menu description I simply figured the featured flavor would be the largely untastable blossoms.

The second round of courses, arriving as we worked on the first dishes, included two new options - Erizos de mar con pipirrana (A spoonful of sea urchin with diced peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers) and Arroz de pato ‘Jean-Louis Palladin’ (Rice with duck confit, duck breast and foie gras cream.) Pricey at $6 I will say that from the small bite of the Erizos I tasted the urchin was phenomenal and paired well with the salsa-esque compontents. Better yet, and much more substantial in portion, was the Arroz de pato, a rich and hearty comfort-food presentation with perfectly prepared rice balanced against rich cream and rare pan seared duck.

Datiles con tocino ‘como hace todo el mundo’(Fried dates wrapped in bacon that you will want to eat every day,) Croquetas de pollo (Traditional chicken fritters,) and Salmón con coliflor y frambuesas (Seared salmon with cauliflower purée and raspberries) would arrive next – each well prepared and delicious, though the first two certainly best as tapas for sharing and the last more suited as a “main course.” Sweet and Savory the dates were everything I expected and the fritters, another flashback to The Bazaar, were creamy and smooth. With regard to the salmon I must note it was slightly overcooked for my tasted, but paired well with the creamy cauliflower puree and zesty raspberry reduction while the crispy cauliflower and whole berries added a fibrous contrast.

With everything served tapas style as it left the kitchen it was somewhat interesting that 2/3 of my aunt’s dishes came out last – no fault of the kitchen, just luck of the draw. Arriving together the Salpicón de cangrejo (Jumbo lump crabmeat with cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, cauliflower and Sherry dressing) and Papas arrugas (Canary Island-style wrinkled baby potatoes served with mojo verde (cilantro, cumin, garlic, Sherry vinegar and olive oil sauce) were both quite excellent. With an ample pile of sweet blue crab balanced with mild vegetables and a fantastic Sherry dressing the crab salad was certainly my favorite cold dish of the meal while the Papas were simple, salty little bites that paired quite nicely with the mildly acidic and heavily nuanced dipping sauce.

Arriving with my aunt’s dishes were two ordered by myself – the Guisantes al natural con huevo (Sautéed organic Tuscarora fresh English peas served with a slow cooked poached egg) and Calamares con piñones y Pedro Ximénez (Seared fresh squid with pine nut praline and a PX reduction)…they also turned out to be my two favorite savories of the meal. Feeling a tad full from the bread and other tapas I’d sampled I started off with the Guisantes…superb and much more than the description would have you believe. Perfectly sautéed in the smoky pork broth with ample hints of mushroom and cumin the peas were sweet yet creamy – and that creamy flavor was only improved by the fresh and luscious egg. More impressive yet, the squid - two large cephalopods stuffed with a sweet pine nut and surrounded by a buttery vinegar reduction…potentially the best “Calamari” I’ve ever tasted.

With myself the only person over ordering everyone else eyed the dessert menu with lust – at least 6 options jumping out at us. Declining coffee but never one to forgo the pastry side of an Andres kitchen I joined in and four desserts were ordered, all arriving at the same time. First, for my mother, the Flan al estilo tradicional de mamá Marisa con espuma de crema Catalana (A classic Spanish custard dessert with ‘espuma’ of Catalan cream and oranges.) Simple, elegant, and wonderful this dish truly did exude tradition as the creamy sweetened flan held up nicely to the fork and the melting cream proved a brilliant foil to the strong citrus of the vinegar reduced oranges.

My sister’s choice, Sopa fría de frutas del bosque con helado de queso fresco (Chilled mixed fruit soup with berries and fresh cheese ice cream,) was not something I would have ordered, but on tasting it I was certainly glad she did. Almost a molecular gastronomy experiment focused on the concept of the cheese cart the dish featured a truly aromatic and pungent ice cream that I’m rather certain was Idiazabal paired wonderfully with a smooth reduction that tasted the very essence of summer – Strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, and raspberries. Delightful.

My selection of the afternoon, Compota de manzana al pan perdido con Pedro Ximénez (Apple charlotte with Pedro Ximénez & vanilla ice cream,) once again turned out to be my favorite. Essentially a Spanish Bread Pudding the dish reminded me fondly of the version at The Inn at Little Washington with a delicate custard cake seemingly made of semi-solid applesauce paired with creamy vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of sweet vinegar – good at first the dish actually got better with each bite as the bottom was immersed in a caramel/vinegar reduction.

Espuma de avellanas y chocolate (Chocolate and hazelnut mousse torte) was my aunt’s selection and while delicious on its own (think nutella on chocolate cake) the addition of a creamy drizzle of “hot chocolate reduction” and caramelized corn nuts only added to the experience – clever, whimsical, and tasty.

Collecting our plates the check was dropped off – modest for so much quality food, but somehow it seemed high for the experience. Sure, the service was sub-par and some of the food rather pedestrian, but normally good food with family is enough to make me feel the meal was worth it…something about Jaleo just felt generic…like the whole concept could be replicated anywhere with a competent kitchen and some stylish paintings…then I realized it could be – at two other places within 50 miles. A nice place for lunch, hors d’oeuvres, or happy hour – sure, but not a “dining experience.”

Georgetown Cupcakes and Founding Farmers, Washington DC

After our meal at Komi we enjoyed our suckers while wandering the Dupont Circle area until my aunt and mother arrived to pick us up. Having forgone dinner themselves the decision was made (by them) to go pick up some dessert at the famous Georgetown Cupcake - arriving half an hour before closing time we found a 30+ person line but decided to wait it out. Standing with the largely college-aged crew and chatting the line progressed slowly - a young girl came out around 8:45 to stand at the end and prevent more people from joining the line.

Making our way into the store we had already identified the cakes we would order from the large menu - unfortunately many of them were sold out (though still present on the racks they were purportedly already spoken for.) Changing two of our decisions we opted for four cupcakes, paid the relatively substantial fee, and made our way out the same way we came in - the store design is much like Magnolia in NYC and could use some work.

Though not really hungry I tried a bite of each of the cakes - Red Velvet, PB Chip, Chocolate Ganache, and Coconut Chocolate. While it should be noted that our visit was late in the day, Georgetown was still baking when we were there...but after tasting the cakes I'm uncertain if the baking was for those of us in line or the noon crowd the following day. Not wanting to jump to conclusions I waited for my family to weigh in...the verdict was dry, boring...perhaps even stale. While the frosting on each was quite nice, the cakes themselves tasted as though they could have been made with Bisquick…..if I had to name a favorite I’d go with the Ganache…but I really don’t have to name a favorite so I won’t.

Thrilled with Komi, disappointed with GK we got home early and went to bed early – rising as early as usual I went for a long run and felt great. With big museum plans for the day we hopped the Metro and were downtown by 8:00am and decided to stop for a bite to eat at Founding Farmers – first of all because of the great looking Breakfast menu, secondly because of their dedication to local farming and an almost Slow-Food ideal, and third because of the catchy name and eye catching restaurant…to say their mission impresses me would be an understatement: “Take comfort knowing that nearly all of our products are made by us, including all breads, pastries, dressings, sauces, pastas, desserts and even our ice cream. When ingredients are available locally and it is sensible for us to buy them, we do.”

Walking into the largely empty restaurant we were seated quickly – as we walked through the hostess explained some of their Green concepts…it didn’t feel “contrived,” but rather honest. Seated at a 2-top near a group of lawyers discussing business we were greeted by our server, Cory W, a friendly young man who presented menus, filled water, and kept our coffee and tea (both provided by Intelligentsia) filled throughout the meal – unlimited refills on a bold Intelligentsia blend (plus one for the road) for only $3 would alone be enough to justify my visit to Founding Farmers in the future, though I will note I much prefer Equal over Splenda and Stevia (their only 0-cal sweetener options.)

With orders placed we sat in the pleasant sun coming through the floor-to-ceiling windows and discussed our day – it took only 20 minutes for orders to arrived and both items were presented with a nice description and a refill of our respective drinks. For my sister the choice was the McCann’s Steel Cut Irish Oatmeal Served Warm with Vanilla Bean Cream, Fresh Strawberries, Brown Sugar, Almonds and Granola. Originally stating she “didn’t want a lot of food” I don’t think she realized exactly how much food she would get for $5. Easily a 2-cup slow cooked serving of the oats and ample toppings the Oatmeal was fresh, tasty, and nicely made – the vanilla bean cream was amazing but made it just a wee bit runny for my tastes.

For my selection I opted for Fried Chicken, Eggs and Waffles, a dish of Crispy-Fried Free-Range Chicken Tenders with Country Gravy, Two Poached Eggs, and Golden Waffle with Whipped Farm Butter. A substantial deal compared to the $26 option at Bouchon or $15 smaller section at Roscoe’s I will say that it was good, but not as good as those mentioned. Overly poached but still with a runny yolk the eggs were golden and creamy – quite tasty. The waffle also was impressive with the crisp exterior yielding fluffy insides. What was only average, unfortunately, was the chicken – salty with a bit of black pepper there simply wasn’t a lot of chicken taste above the breading – the thick country gravy helped, but true fried chicken would be a better option than the tenders.

Settling the tab and leaving a nice tip after receiving to-go cups of our drinks we made our way to the street quite happy with the experience – environmental, economical, tasty, and great service is definitely a motto I can get behind.