Peter Luger Steakhouse, Brooklyn NY

When you don’t frequent Steakhouse and don’t eat steak in general because you find it rather boring and monotonous it makes it rather difficult to judge a Steakhouse – even if it is nearly 125 years old and perhaps the most famous Steakhouse in the world. Sure I cannot say that Peter Luger would have been my first choice for lunch during any trip to New York City, but on this particular visit a confluence of factors not only made it very convenient, but the fact that my friend Matt had always wanted to eat there but never had the chance also made it a great opportunity to have a Michelin Starred meal with a friend who generally shies away from the world of fine dining.

With a legend over a century old I must admit that my visit to Luger’s was something I actually looked forward to if not for the steak then simply for the experience. How, I wondered, could a Brooklyn Steakhouse hold a 25+ year reign as “Best Steak in New York” when the city’s dining climate has always been so transient? How could a cash only $60+ per person place with rumored surly service and warnings to take a cab rather than risk a walk from the subway require advanced reservations even at lunch? Was it really that good – and if it was, could it be the place to change my mind about Steakhouses and beef in general?

With reservations made months in advance and Matt driving in from New Hyde Park (and ironically forgetting his wallet) my first challenge to the rumors I’d heard was the J-Train and a nice trip across the Williamsburg Bridge followed by a quarter mile walk through a rough yet well-kept neighborhood to the front door of the famous restaurant; not only did I not get mugged or harassed but the people I crossed paths with en route were rather pleasant. Making my way past the parking lot up to the front door I was next greeted by a man in a brown Peter Luger coat who held the door as I made my way in to the bar where my friend was waiting.

With greetings exchanged and Matt informing me of his forgotten wallet I quickly realized that I likely did not have enough cash for the both of us but informed by the somewhat gruff bartender that the restaurant does indeed take debit I was relieved and handing the bartender $3 for the 8oz Diet Coke Matt had been enjoying we made our way through the bar to past a number of suited men to one of the three heavily wooded main dining rooms where we were greeted by our server, a pleasant older fellow named Bernard who told us he’d been working at Peter Luger since “before you was born,” who filled our waters and handed us our menus.

With Matt waxing between the Rib Steak and the Luger Burger and myself having already decided before we arrived on the Lamb Chops it wouldn’t take long before orders were placed and with service professional and even occasionally chatty throughout the meal a warm basket of bread appeared within moments along with thick cubes of butter, Peter Luger Steak sauce, and another $3 Diet Coke for Matt. With the room approximately half full and seemingly unchanged since inception in its decoration Matt and I both dug into the bread basket and to my surprise the offerings were actually quite diverse and tasty with white bread, Garlic Onion rolls, and warm Parker House rolls all golden and warm. With the butter largely forgettable it should also be mentioned that it really doesn’t matter largely because this gives you an excuse at this point to try the sauce – somewhere between barbeque and cocktail and Worcestershire – and to keep trying it until the plates arrive.

With the main courses being cooked “however the Chef prefers” on my request, the next item to arrive at the table was Luger’s Sizzling Bacon “Extra Thick by the Slice.” With a single order delivering two charred slices of crispy pig to our table my first thoughts on arrival were “when they say thick they mean thick” and on taking my first bite those thoughts quickly changed to “damn, this is the best bacon I’ve ever had” as the tender interior edge juxtaposed with the smoky crisp edges to form a taste quite unlike traditional pan fried bacon, but more like pork belly with a bit more texture.

With the bacon devoured and its drippings sopped up with the start of a second basket of bread our main courses would arrive perhaps 35 minutes after seating and with mine plated tableside with sizzling butter from the pan spooned over the first of two butterflied chops (I only ordered the single) it was with little hesitation that I cut into the rosy flesh and took a bite instantly realizing the Luger sauce would be unnecessary as the medium cooked protein had plenty of flavor to go around. With a nearly caramelized exterior and supple core what surprised me most about the dish was how the butter actually managed to enhance some of the animal’s grassy tones while the exterior char was simple, savory, and delicious.
With the lamb consuming my attention I suddenly remembered I was eating with someone and looked up to find Matt essentially eating with his eyes closed and smiling – while the burger may have been good I’m rather certain he didn’t regret his choice. Generally one not to eat beef I decided “when in Rome” in this case and to be completely honest the beef was an eye opener – served on the bone, a medium pink center, and the perfect balance of protein vs. fat marbling to render the meat juicy without being fatty. My first experience in nearly 3 years with dry aged beef it would interestingly not be my last of the day and while Chef Mirarchi’s 80 day dry aged Wagyu at Roberta’s that evening would entirely reinvent the cow to my palate, I can honestly say that if I were to return to Luger’s I would definitely consider ordering a steak next time.

With scalding hot (and really Folger-esque) coffee served and knowing that I was in for a big meal that evening and while Matt had ordered a substantial steak plus crispy onion straws it was with some debate that we contemplated desserts when Bernard returned to the table, but after agreeing to at least look at the options we decided to go for it and with a “that’s the spirit” from our server we sat back and chatted as we waited.

Told that the desserts were all “made that morning in house” it would not be long before they would arrive – large and bold as expected – along with a bowl of “Schlag” – essentially hand whipped heavy cream with light sweetness and vanilla tones that you could easily stand a spoon up in.

Beginning first with Matt’s selection, the Apple Strudel I’d have ordered if he had not, I have to say that along with the coffee this was Peter Luger’s only failure of the afternoon because while the apples and cinnamon were good, the limp and chilly pastry dough simply showed the pre-made nature of the dish. Knowing full well that such comparisons are unfair I simply could not help but judge this Strudel against the textbook version served at The Modern just two days prior and – well – lets just say the creamy schlag balanced against the sweet apples was the high point of this dish while the pastry shell floundered.

Moving on to smaller but better, my choice of “traditional” Southern Pecan Pie turned out to be everything I’d hoped as the crisp golden crust supported the buttery brown sugar filling with ease while the sugar roasted Pecans were supple and plump with a great nutty flavor that mellowed the filling without muting it – of course a little schlag didn’t hurt here, either.

With plates cleared save for some of the strudel pastry and half the schlag Bernard returned again and asking us if there was anything else we’d like presented the bill and a pile of chocolate gold coins – a formidable $115 after tax and invited us to either pay him or pay at the booth on the way out. Electing for the booth as I had to pay with debit I’ll say here that while Bernard was pleasant the woman at the booth most certainly was not and without mustering a smile she thanked us for coming in and we were on our way – Matt happy to have finally eaten at the fabled Steakhouse and myself glad to have been there with him because whether a steak fan or not Peter Luger truly is the sort of place you need to experience for yourself; and all the better if you want a nice slab of beef.

Cafe Boulud, New York NY

There is a part of my food ramblings that will unfortunately remain lost in the void – a handful of meals from a work-related trip to New York that are annotated and photographed but of which my memory has faded over the course of 5 months of work and trips to Paris, Boston, and Chicago. While it is somewhat unfortunate that these experiences will not be documented with my standard breadth of detail considering all were good and some were great, it is what it is and the most vivid memories still shine through. For the third of these meals, I give you Café Boulud – by far the longest, most complex, and most delicious of the group yet the one during which I took the least notes as I was dining with friends; friends who were admittedly known to both the front of the house and Chef Gavin Kaysen.

Having already acknowledged my shortcomings in annotation I will first note that what I can and do recall of the meal was first the setting – with an early reservation made by Roz and Michael and my arrival preceding theirs by a good twenty minutes the front of the house could not have been nicer in offering me a seat at the bar or instead a seat at the table, the later which I accepted, and providing me not only a copy of Food & Wine to read while I waited but also a complimentary artisan Planter’s Punch with notes of pineapple, cinnamon, and nutmeg – a punch that may have been “one too many” when added to Boulud’s signature house Champagne also provided on the house when my companions arrived.

With the restaurant located in the former Daniel space at The Surrey amongst the museums and million dollar apartments of the Upper East Side the dining room has a distinctive feel from that of Daniel – smaller and a bit less formal, classy without being opulent, and with both seating and service more befitting an upscale café than a glamorous five star meal – yet at the same time a number of similarities including the splashy art, well-heeled clientele, circular lighting fixtures, and of course the world class cuisine which instead of simply utilizing techniques from around the world instead opts to literally divide the menu by technique and location into 5 sections; Daily Market, Classic, International, Seasonal, and Vegetable.

With Chef Kaysen greeting us tableside as we sipped our champagne I figured deferring to my friends would be the better part of valor and much like their previous visit to the restaurant they opted to place our night in the hands of the Chef with a couple of specific requests to which Gavin was happy to oblige. A humble man who seemed to politely quash all comments about his talents instead preferring to discuss his children, wife, and opportunity to meet with Paul Bocuse who was in town along with many other chefs to honor Thomas Keller at Per Se there was something immensely likable about Chef Kaysen almost immediately and I quickly understood Roz and Michael’s fondness for the restaurant – and all this before a single bite even touched the table.

With Gavin now returning to the kitchen and the restaurant filling to perhaps 3/4 capacity our server stopped by briefly to discuss beverages with our trio and with one opting for wine pairings while I’d already had more than my limit things were underway with a trio of amuses (note, no menu was ever presented until we requested one as a keepsake at the end of the evening) including a Blue Point Oyster with Lemon and red onion, Octopus Carpaccio with Olive, Romesco and Watercress, and finally a Rice Croquette with aged cheese and breadcrumbs – all tasty, each presenting a different texture and diverse flavor profile to open the palate for things to come.

With amuses finished the next man to arrive tableside was the bread man – a dangerous fellow indeed given the diversity and quality of his wares, each still warm from the oven and paired with the same smooth and salty cow’s milk butter served at Chef Boulud’s flagship. Never one to skimp on the carbs I can say without a doubt that Café Boulud ranks alongside Bouley as the best bread services I’ve experienced in the Big Apple and their servers rank amongst the most generous the young man kept my plate filled with Pumpkin seed sesame, Olive wheat, raisin walnut, French baguette, and sourdough throughout the evening.

Moving on to our first course I’ll once again state here that my memories are fuzzy, especially as each diner was served a different plate for each of the first four courses plus dessert, but what I can remember is that all but one dish was impressive while many bordered on outstanding and a few crossed the threshold to perfection. Beginning with the first course then, the ‘salad’ course if you will, the three plates were as follows: #1) Maine Lobster Salad - Sugar Snap Peas, Preserved Lemon, Pearl Onions plus lobster fritter and cilantro mayo, #2) Ahi Tuna Niçoise - Haricot Vert, Romaine Lettuce, Quail Egg, #3) Adobo Marinated Scallops - Pineapple, Red Onion, Jalapeno, Scallions – and with a much plate passing involved we were each able to taste all three with only the scallops falling short as the heat of the pepper and adobo spices simply overwhelmed the mollusk leaving behind while the other two showed great balance, particularly the sweet lobster salad.

Moving next (after more bread, I’m sure) to the “soup” course would be the moment I first realized what Chef Kaysen was capable of as three different plates arrived, each referencing a different style, place, and part of the menu; and each absolutely superb. First sourcing the International theme of Mexican, then French Tradition, and finally the Daily Market plates #1) Traditional Pozole Soup - White Hominy, Pork Shoulder, Guajillo, #2 Asperges Blanches Gratinée - Hen Egg, Sauce Béarnaise, Frisée, #3) Warm Pea Soup with onion ravioli, pea tendrils, olive oil showed a skill set not often seen in a restaurant with each of the varying styles showing great poise and using savory to balance sweet, vegetal to tame heavy, and unique textures such as the partially crisped hen egg or toothsome hominy to throw a curveball into the otherwise creamy presentations.

Moving on to the pasta course I’ll note that one of my dining partners made a special request based on a meal at Café Boulud during which famed blogger theulteriorepicure enjoyed his “best dish” of 2010 and without hesitation Gavin was glad to send out #1) Spaghetti Nero - Bouchot Mussels, Prawns, Baby Squid, Fra Diavolo along with #2) Housemade Cavatelli - Braised Pork Ragoût, Roasted Eggplant, Shaved Pecorino and #3) Spring Green Risotto - Crispy Frog Legs, Watercress, Ramps. Obviously paying close attention to the spaghetti given the praise I have to admit it was an outstanding dish with the varying textures of the seafood all sharing the spotlight with flawless al dente pasta and the perfect amount of semi-sweet sauce clinging to each morsel. Not to be outdone, the thick Cavatelli were nearly gnocchi-esque in their density but with the hollow interior more than capable of soaking up plenty of the smoky ragout and smooth eggplant while the risotto was nicely prepared and eerily similar in both texture and flavor to that at Rouge Tomate earlier that afternoon, but this time with a crispy frog leg providing the textural component and it’s characteristic saline tones.

For the fish course we would once again see the Classic, Market, and Mexican presentation with the classic actually a dish harkening back to the days when Daniel inhabited the space. With the dishes presented as #1) Striped Bass en Paupiette - Pomme Purée, Baby Leeks, Sauce Meurette, #2) Slow Baked Branzino - Carrot Ginger Purée, Shitake Mushrooms, Scallions, Miso Emulsion, and #3) Chili Spiced Monkfish - Black Beans, Cilantro, Chimichurri, Housemade Tamale this trio once again showed Kaysen’s deft hand with globe-trotting flavor profiles and while the classic Bass was quite impressive with the crisp potato skin and flaky fish nicely complimented by the rings of sauces and purees it was actually my least favorite of the trio largely because one featured my favorite fish, Branzino, paired with a beautiful assortment of Asian inspired flavors that brought out many of the fish’s sweeter tones while the other did something I’d have never expected with Monkfish and made it spicy without losing a bit of it’s buttery undertones while also delivering a Tamale with sweet corn and pork that was as good as any ever to grace my palate.

For our final savory of the evening the courses would finally converge (on our request) with the lone item served being the Roasted Duck Breast with Venere Rice, Spring Radishes, Red Beets, and Natural Jus, a competent version of the fowl to be sure but overwhelmed in “wow” factor by the toothsome and fragrant black rice whose nutty undertones balanced perfectly with the spicy radishes and tender beets.

Asked next if we should like to enjoy some cheese before desserts the answer was “of course,” and given the 9:00pm hour the lights went down as the board arrived. With five cheeses served, 2 cow, 2 goat, and one sheep per my recollection I’ll admit that without my notes here I’m at a loss for names, but I do recall the blue to be excellent, particularly with the toasted cranberry pecan toast and accoutrements including poached cherries, honey brittle, and salad with a light vinaigrette.

With cheese blocks cleared and my companions getting full three desserts would arrive and having seen one that particularly interested me on the online menu my inquiry led to a fourth on the house. Again traversing the globe the plates arriving included #1) Rum Glazed Bananas - Milk Chocolate Crémeux, Smoked Cinnamon Anglaise, Hibiscus Sorbet, #2) Basil Poached Mango - Coconut Mousse, Passion Curd, Pina Colada Sorbet, Basil Caviar, #3) Dark Chocolate Mousse with Pistachio Cremeux, Chocolate Sable, Pistachio Ice Cream, and by request #4) Baba au Rhum - Poached Pineapple, Macadamia Brittle, Vanilla Ice Cream – each larger than expected – and all but the mango right up my alley with ornate presentations and delicious complex flavors abound, particularly the wheel of caramelized boozy bananas atop creamy chocolate and the dense baba finished tableside with aged rum carrying a crunchy tropical shell atop its rounded base.

With desserts being enjoyed slowly coffee and warm Madelines would arrive next from the kitchen and just like Daniel the fluffy lemon kissed cookies were textbook while deep rich notes of La Colombe led to at least three refills before the night was over.

With Gavin again stopping by to see how we’d enjoyed everything and praises flowing from our lips the last bites to arrive were in the form of seven mignardises; a true embarrassment of riches with a Vanilla Macaron, Chocolate covered pistachio marshmallow, tangerine pate a fruit, lemon meringue, cannelle, caramel tarte, and pineapple financier all quite good – particularly the caramel almond tarte which roused memories of pecan pie and the Vanilla Macaron every bit as good as those at La Maison du Chocolat.

With a great meal now behind us and Gavin again thanking us and signing copies of the night’s menu before returning to the kitchen we sat as a group for a while chatting before making our way to the door where coats were collected and thanks were provided both ways for such a lovely evening – an evening that nearly 5 months later still resonates with me and makes me wonder just what Michelin is thinking by giving Kaysen only one star when the food – supposedly the only thing that Michelin judges when awarding stars – is every bit as good as Boulud’s Three-Star flagship.

Rouge Tomate, New York NY

There is a part of my food ramblings that will unfortunately remain lost in the void – a handful of meals from a work-related trip to New York that are annotated and photographed but of which my memory has faded over the course of 5 months of work and trips to Paris, Boston, and Chicago. While it is somewhat unfortunate that these experiences will not be documented with my standard breadth of detail considering all were good and some were great, it is what it is and the most vivid memories still shine through. For the second of these meals, I give you Rouge Tomate – a place some had warned me would underwhelm compared to other heavyweights on my dining schedule, but a space I couldn’t overlook due to my beliefs about healthy eating (okay, not while on vacation, but the other 330 days of the year,) a business lunch prix fixe that just so happened to contain some of my favorite things, plus their philosophy stating: “Our seasonally inspired culinary offerings rely heavily on locally sourced ingredients and are prepared in consultation with our culinary nutritionist Natalia Hancock.” With reservations made I even contacted the restaurant in advance to ask if one of the dinner items could be made available at lunch – a request they granted without question.

Arriving at the surprisingly expansive restaurant on time for my reservation and making my way through the red curtain I was met at the hostess stand by a male and female who seemed to ignore my existence for a moment before looking up with a “can I help you?” With my name and reservation stated the demeanor quickly changed, however, and I was subsequently led to a two top at the very front of the restaurant; a seat overlooking the large decorated windows, a basement type area, and the entirety of the restaurant. With the room approximately half-empty, particularly in my section save for a group of six and a couple tables of business sorts it would be a short while before my server Caitlin – one of only two waitresses working the room from what I was able to see – would arrive tableside with water, a list of house-blended juices (outrageously priced, fyi,) and both the lunch prix fixe and standard lunch menu. A pleasant girl though not the most attentive I’d often find my water empty, but overall service as I recall it was about what I’d expect for such a restaurant.

With a quick browse of the prix fixe and bearing in mind that I had a conference to get back to Caitlin returned rather quickly after her original visit and confirming my dinner supplemental request I placed my order for the prix fixe, the supplement, and an extra dessert that looked too good to pass up – a five course meal with plates arriving approximately every 10-15 minutes providing for a nice pace.

With orders placed the first item to arrive at my table would be the house-made bread selection for the day and paired with Cilantro Olive Oil both the Sourdough and Sesame Poppy seed Bread were nice and toothsome and although the sourdough could have stood a bit more ‘sour’ it really did match up quite pleasantly with the fragrant and smooth oil.

Munching on the bread it would not be long before my first course arrived and as a matter of fact, I was told that knowing my request the chef had already started working on it before my arrival. With the dry plate served first and springing to life as a clean and clear Consommé was added tableside, “Chicken and Dumplings” featuring house-made gnocchi, Amish chicken sausage, Foie Gras, and Honshimeji mushroom looked and smelled fantastic – like chicken noodle soup all grown up and in a portion befitting a main course moreso than an appetizer…but unfortunately the mushrooms and vegetables fell flat while the five gnocchi were more dense noodle than buoyant dumpling. Largely disappointed by those aspects I will say that the spicy chicken sausage was quite good and small terrine of foie gras melting at the plate’s center added a great flavor to the broth.

Moving next to the prix fixe, my first course was a decision between bean soup and an egg dish; a ‘choice’ in name only for anyone who knows me and my love of all things featuring an egg. Another large portion and this time served loaded with both aroma and flavor provoking thoughts of an herb garden, Fresh Herb Risotto with Feather Ridge Farm Egg, Fennel, Parmesan, and Crispy Garlic was everything I’d hoped for with the risotto just slightly toothsome and texturally marvelous balancing with the creamy egg with notes of both the garlic and cheese poking though with each bite. Tinged with a little bit of mint this was the sort of natural cuisine I’d hoped Rouge Tomate would deliver when I made my reservation in the first place.

For the second/main course of the Prix Fixe another of my favorite items was offered and once again the portion and preparation were more than I’d have ever expected for a “business lunch.” Titled Long Island Duck with Red Cabbage, Crispy confit, Root Vegetables, Shallot-Pork Puree, and Thyme Juice this plate would prove the superstar of the dinner with a 6-7oz of grapefruit red duck with crispy golden skin atop a pile of smoky cooked red cabbage and topped with nicely prepared turnips, sweet potatoes, and rutabaga. With the breast delicious and the jus pairing nicely, the additional surprise of a crispy cube of confit paired with the savory puree of swine formed a flavor entirely unique – a bit funky, a bit smoky, and a nice textural balance to the rest of the plate.

With one dessert included and the other ordered off the lunch ALC menu Caitlin asked if I wanted them both at the same time or coursed out and suggesting I had time for separate dishes the first to arrive was that from the fixe in the form of Early Spring Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese, Walnut, Vanilla Milk Sherbet; the better of the two by far. Beginning first with the carrot cake – a nice rendition made with both carrot and rhubarb served in a small teardrop shape with a base full of spice and lovely cream cheese frosting in ideal proportion without being overly sweet. With the milk sherbet decent but unmemorable, the other aspect of this plate that wowed was the unannounced pile of vegetables and orange puree – identical in flavor and spice to the cake and consisting of golden raisins, poached carrots and rhubarb, plus plenty of cinnamon and sweetness.

Having not expected to order a second dessert my inability to pass on my favorite style of dessert led to an order of the Seasonal Warm Bread Pudding with Fuji Apple, Chestnut, Oat Streusel, and Parsnip Ice Cream – a decent enough example, but nothing really to write home about given the $11 price tag for what was actually a rather small portion of the nicely caramelized but largely unsweetened pudding. More impressive than the bread pudding, the apple/cherry amalgam was actually quite good while the Parsnip Ice Cream was actually quite tremendous with a surprisingly smooth texture and savory tones that truly did taste earthy yet pleasantly sweet.

With the plates now cleared and my time running low given the trek back to the Hilton I declined coffee, though Rouge Tomate’s offering of a number of ethically sourced artisan blends certainly trumped the free stuff back at the conference and paying the bill – just shy of $70 with tax and tip – I thanked the team for a nice meal that although certainly not the best in New York (and potentially a bit overrated by Michelin) certainly fit their promised vision, particularly with regard to the prix fixe.