Trotter's to Go, Pasticceria Natalina, Swedish Bakery, Chicago IL

It was a great trip to New Orleans but it turned out that a direct flight back to Columbus was $400 more than a layover in Chicago – or, if I could work things out in time, a two day visit to Chicago before heading back to work. As it turned out things worked out beautifully in that my Aunt drove in to spend a couple days with me and I called up a friend in Chicago who was up for a dinner – and even more so when I called Alinea on a whim to find out that they had a cancellation for the 6pm Tour on the day I would be arriving in Chicago. Hopping off the plane from NOLA just before 2pm I met my aunt without hassle at O’Hare and we drove to our hotel and got checked in. As my Aunt would not be visiting Alinea with us that evening but instead watching the Olympics at the hotel she and I decided to check out a couple of pasty and gourmet food stops prior to dropping me off at Alinea – having been to Chicago a few times in the past year I had a few places in mind and with a few clicks in the GPS we were on our way – our first stop would be Pasticceria Natalina.

Having read previously about Chef Zarzour’s craft and dedication to traditional Italian pastry I have to say I’d been looking forward to this visit for some time – they were closed during our previous trip to Chicago. Arriving just after 3pm we found easy free parking around the corner and made our way into the small shop to find them just baking some fresh items but also with display cases laden with tempting delights. Without belaboring the point I will note that if you plan to take pictures they request you ask first – I found out the hard way when I was scolded by a man behind the counter. Making our (pricey) selections and having them plated for us we made our way to a small bar along the edge where we sat to enjoy.

Beginning first with the Pesche Dolci - a butter pastry rolled in Alchernes liquor and sugar and filled with Yuzu Mango Jelly I was delighted by the peach appearance and the unexpected taste of a sweet sugar mingling with the buttery alcoholic punch of the cookie. While not a fan of Mango, the lemony yuzu flavor was the dominant taste of the filling and the whole dish tasted like a butter cookie meets lemon gelee.

Following the peach we next sampled the Tartufini all Amarena of moist rum hazelnut cake and sour cherry sauce with ground chocolate and the Cuccidatti shortcrust cookie filled with figs, walnuts, currant, honey, orange peel, cinnamon. While my aunt quite liked the Tartufini I personally don’t fancy chocolate with fruit – though I will note the cake was quite tasty. For my tastes the Cuccidatti was much more fitting – it’s beautiful butter crust (like a hard fig Newton) balancing nicely with the impressively aromatic and complex filling – each one of the listed items reaching the tongue and palate with a nice degree of balance.

Settling the bill ($20) I will note that while the desserts were expensive you are certainly paying for care and quality – not an “every day” sort of bakery, but some great tastes you can’t just get at your local corner bakery either. Speaking of places that aren’t your “every day” bakery, our next stop on this short eating trek would be just a few doors down – The Swedish Bakery.

Entering Swedish bakery I will note it looked and felt a lot more like an “every day” bakery than Natalina did – and it had many items that wouldn’t be out of place at such a place either…then again, given their extensive list of both traditional Swedish, French, English, and “American” pastries I’m pretty sure there aren’t too many items they were lacking – they even had a King Cake and Paczkis. Chatting with the friendly server we made a few selections that we planned to save for breakfast the next day and we made our way to the street.

While we did not consume the baked goods until the following day I will note that for myself the results were less than stellar – the Red Velvet Cupcake was rather boring and the frosting was the gritty sugary sort while the carrot cake bite was vastly better, but much more frosting than carrot. My Aunt’s selection, a cream Napoleon (her favorite) was raved about, however, as the “best she’s had in years.” Creamy and light meringue and pastry cream, supple and cake like layers – it was good, but lacked much nuance or texture variation…like most Napoleons to my palate.

Approaching 5pm my Aunt noted that she wanted to grab some actual food – not just desserts but she wanted someplace that didn’t serve beef since it was Ash Wednesday. Realizing we were near Armitage I decided to look up Charlie Trotter’s as I remembered he had a “To Go” store with sandwiches, soups, meats, and other delights in the neighborhood. A few short turns later and we found ourselves parked in the private lot in front of Trotter’s To Go.

Making our way into the impressively large store the first thing that struck me was the wide open kitchen to right – it smelled like honey barbeque, garlic, and a fish tone that I believe was tuna grilling on a long plank. Looking left there was a large wine selection, gourmet cheeses (Humboldt Fog, Truffle Tremor, Midnight Moon most notable to myself,) Pate, Breads, and even a small seating area. Further browsing revealed Christopher Elbow Chocolate, designer salts, Mani Olive Oil, and more esoteric vinegars than I’ve seen anywhere since Napa.

Browsing the prepped foods my aunt quickly identified her entrée – an enormous crab cake that was likely 75% crab, 15% vegetable, and 10% breadcrumbs. Prepared with a quick double sided searing on the hot grill by the store chef the cake was plated and served with a spicy Creole aioli. Taking a small bite I personally loved the crab cake on its own while my Aunt opted for the spicy topping. Crisp yet flaky, meaty yet fibrous – very nice. Alongside the cake my aunt deferred on the mac n’ cheese and instead opted for a savory crouton salad featuring house made butter croutons, ripe super 100 tomatoes, and mixed greens with a light vinaigrette.

Wanting to see what Trotter’s To Go had for dessert we checked out the cakes and cookies and next looked into the chilled case to find a creamy butterscotch pudding and a pair of bread puddings alongside multiple other items. Opting for the Chocolate-Covered Pretzel Bread Pudding with Salted Chocolate Caramel over the Chocolate Marshmallow version we paid the tab and tried a couple bites then with more to follow later and the following day. Creamy and smooth yet thick enough to keep a spoon upright my aunt loved the pudding and compares it favorably to all but the Butterscotch pie at Boulevard in San Francisco for best ever. For myself – I really didn’t expect tons from a pre-made pudding in plastic…but boy was I wrong. Featuring a Bread pudding using day-old soft pretzels for the bread and a salty caramel custard as a binder the dish was subsequently smothered in a creamy bourbon accented caramel and Valrhona chocolate to produce a dish that would not have been out of place at any fine dining establishment – even with Alinea reservations in less than 30 minutes I had trouble stopping at a mere 2 bites (though I was glad I had the following morning when I warmed it up to find it even more spectacular.

Finishing our browsing we departed Trotter’s and made our way to Halsted where I arrived 5 minutes early for the reservation (and 20 minutes before my friend who was caught in traffic) – my Aunt went back to the hotel where she ate her pudding and enjoyed some Olympic Hockey…she still raves about that pudding and the Napoleon the way I do about Alinea.

Camellia Grill, New Orleans LA

After a late night in the quarter and some sluggish traffic on the way back to Metaire I decided to sleep in...until a whopping 6:00am. With my plane leaving en route for O'Hare at 11:20am and my car due back at the rental company by 10:00 I decided to go for a jog, get showered, and pack/checkout early and grab a bite to eat before I boarded the plane. With 6pm reservations at Alinea for The Tour and uncertain lunch plans I wanted something filling that wouldn't take too long but would also provide one last memorable experience of New Orleans...I thought waffles and pie fit the bill nicely.

Hopping into the car and heading eastward I found some sticky traffic due to construction but still managed to arrive in front of the famous Camellia Grill by 8:15. Walking into the small restaurant I found both the facade and the countertop layout to be particularly "homey" and pleasant. With four servers behind the bar and three open stools at the dead center of the action I waltzed up and sat down only to have the two chairs next to me filled seconds later by another couple and a subsequent line begin to grow - it was 15-20 deep by the time I left at 9:15.

Greeted promptly by my server, a short African American fellow wearing a badge that read "Sleepy" I chuckled at his low voice, smooth demeanor, and tired looking eyes. While the name may have fit his look, it most certainly didn't fit his efficiency as he moved quickly around the bar serving multiple persons in multiple seats without missing a beat. A menu placed in front of me and water and coffee filled I was told to "gimme a holler when you're ready" and Sleepy went off to serve other diners.

Browsing the menu didn't take long but watching the expert grill man was definitely a distraction worth watching as he worked griddle, grill, and waffle irons rapidly. Sipping my coffee I have to say it wasn't the best of the trip, but for the price it most certainly wasn't bad with it's heavy chicory notes balanced by a bold chocolate and woody undertone. Catching Sleepy with a nod of the head he came over to gather my order, checked off the boxes, and passed it on to the cook.

Sitting back and watching the show that is the waiters at Camellia I have to say I was amused - it is rare to see people look like they're having so much fun working together, especially with such efficiency...it reminded me of Dottie's in San Francisco or The Griddle in Los Angeles, but more culturally oriented and humorous....though perhaps more choreographed. Watching the look on his wife's face as my neighbor received a gigantic omelet with chili and a chocolate shake for breakfast was another great treat while I waited a short 15 minutes for my first dish to arrive.

Brought hot off the waffle iron (irons that look to have been through a war in addition to the hurricane) and placed before me with a "there ya go - and here's the cane syrup, ignore that maple stuff" my pecan waffle looked quite unlike the fluffy buttermilk waffles I was familiar with but moreso like a 50/50 mix of dough and pecans - crisp, golden, and flat. Topping the waffle with the liquid butter (recommended by another server over the hard butter) and the cane syrup and proceeding to take a bite I was surpised by the texture - fluffy and nutty to mastication and actually quite delicious on its own, but even better with the syrup and butter. Not overly filling on its own despite its large plate size I was quite happy with the waffle - though it had no chance to trump what followed.

After taking a seat and ordering more waffle I'd asked if the Pecan Pie was available so early in the morning to which sleepy said "it's never too early for pie" and while eating my waffle I watched sleepy cut a sizable slice from the refridgerated pan and hand it to the grill man who subsequently placed it top down on the hot buttered grill and allowed it to cook for approximately 5-6 minutes until the buttery pecan and cinnamon smell was evident even at my seat. Flipping it off the grill onto a plate and passing it off to Sleepy he noted "HOT PIE COMING THROUGH" loud enough for all to hear. Presenting the plate to me he said "Hot Pie - but it looks naked...what this needs is some Ice Cream!" Chuckling and nodding my head in affirmation Sleepy pulled out an icecream scoop and placed an enormous scoop of vanilla right on top of the pie exclaiming "WHOOMP - There it is!" Melting rapidly atop the scorching pie the icecream quickly cooled the dish and taking a bite I was quite impressed by both the smoothness of potent vanilla ice cream and the buttery cinnamon essences of the pecan pie. Eating slower as the pie began to cool I was more impressed by the lack of "filler" and the plethora of pecans as well as the buttery crisp crust...from now on I think pie at breakfast will be a vacation requirement.

Thanking Sleepy and his cohorts for a great experience I picked up my bill and made my way to the door where you pay a friendly lady who chalks up the tab based on the checkmarks. Given the option to tip on my credit card or pay the server cash I simply put another 20% on the card and made my way to the street with a big smile on my face – and a smile on the face of the people waiting in line for a seat. Hopping in the car and making my way to the rental car agency I was glad to have experienced Camellia Grill – a sweet ending to a great trip.

Restaurant August, New Orleans LA

Great parades, great people, amazing food – really, the most “fun” I’ve had on a trip in the past year…and to cap off a wonderful visit to New Orleans I wanted to do something special – to go out on top, as it were. Having already done classic or refined New Orleans cuisine for most of my meals I figured a trip to the pinnacle of “haute-Creole” was in order –after the meal I had at Luke I was relatively certain that John Besh’s flagship wouldn’t disappoint. After a few more hours of wandering the quarter, people watching (the costumes are better than Halloween,) and shopping I made my way to the doors of Restaurant August approximately 5 minutes early for my 8:00pm reservation.

Entering the small lobby I felt comfortable – this place looked and felt like fine dining…not that other places in New Orleans didn’t, but this was more Robuchon or Keller than Clancy or Brigtsen. Greeted by a pair of friendly hosts my reservation was confirmed and I was led to a two-top along the wall of the front dining room – plenty of light, a great view of the street, and isolated from the sounds of the surprisingly loud bar. Water choices (sparkling, tap, bottled) were offered and I selected tap – it is appropriate to note here that twice during the meal I had to raise my glass or ask the server for water refills – a minor thing to some but a mistake that should not happen at a restaurant like August.

Greeted next by my waiter, a younger Asian fellow who appeared sporadically but was clearly working in other rooms of the large house as well, I was given a menu as well as wine/cocktail list which I declined. Going over the structure of the menu my server explained the 4-course, 7-course, and a la carte options while additionally noting that anything on either of the tasting menus could be ordered a la carte. In asking about creating my own tasting he stated that 2 appetizers, a main, plus dessert would be “probably a lot of food” – so I ordered 3 appetizers and a main with dessert to be decided on later.

Arriving first along with my coffee - the same excellent blend that was served at Luke – was French Bread and Butter. More “mini-baguettes” than the big loafs elsewhere these certainly fit the concept of fine dining, but unfortunately the exterior was a bit too crunchy and the exterior to interior ratio led to a rather dry experience. Served with the same delectable butter as at Luke I’m rather certain Besh must have this sourced for all of his restaurants and he should definitely let other local restaurants in on the secret.

My first course of the meal was my first amuse of the trip – an interesting fact given the places I normally dine. Served in an eggshell the dish was described as a seafood custard sabayon with paddlefish roe and brioche. Large in size I cannot say this amuse reinvented the wheel – in actuality it is something I’ve seen at multiple restaurants before and tasted like a less refined version of Picholine’s sea urchin panna cotta served in a yard egg shell. A nice way to start, but somewhat safe.

Arriving only seconds after I finished the amuse was my first course of the evening, for all intents and purposes the dish that has become Restaurant August’s signature dish - Potato gnocchi with Blue Crab and Black Truffles in Cream Sauce. Topped with shaved parmigiano-reggiano just prior to service and featuring an ample portion of crab and cream sauce plus small chips of black truffle the gnocchi were pillow-soft and perfectly prepared – the best textured potato gnocchi I’ve had since the French Laundry. Well complimented by the buttery sauce the crab was delectable and the cheese lent sharpness to the dish as well as some textural variation. If anything were disappointing about this dish it would be the truffles – largely lacking in both aroma and flavor I think the dish would have been just as good without their presence.

My second dish of the evening was the ever rotating (and bargain priced at $20) Foie Gras three ways. Another ever-present August item the nightly preparation featured a small dollop of mousse in “crunchy chicory crumbs” over mango puree on the left, a German inspired “Pickled Foie Gras Gateaux” surrounded by sweetened layers of cake and topped with Riesling gelatin cubes in the middle, and a pheasant and Foie pate with fig compote to the right. Served with buttery toasted brioche I absolutely loved the bitter/sweet contrast of the dollop, particularly spread on the bread but also quite liked the Gateaux which my server explained to me was pickled and slow cooked in pear vinegar. While I can’t say I loved the pheasant terrine I’ve never really fancied mixed fowl/foie outside of the version at Guy Savoy – that noted it was definitely as good as the preparations I had at Per Se and Daniel.

The second service issue of the evening occurred after the foie gras – my next course arrived literally 20 seconds after I finished the Foie Gras and it was cool – almost as though they’d not expected me to take my time with the foie (I admittedly requested a second plate of brioche and spent 20 minutes on the dish.) Aside from the temperature and rushed timing I will admit that for a mere $11 the truffle larded Sweetbreads picatta was quite excellent. Featuring two large and creamy pan-seared sweetbreads pounded flat the texture of the meat and the manner in which it contrasted with the wilted romaine were excellent while the herbed cream sauce was reminiscent of a refined ranch dressing with tones of lemon and capers peaking through and accenting the protein.

For my main I went with the trend of my trip and the timing between this course and the sweetbreads was perfect. Entitled “Sugar and Spice Duckling with roasted duck foie, McEwan’s stone ground grits and candied quince” the presentation of the dish was quite nice and I understood where the chef was going with the preparation – but unfortunately the duck didn’t live up to its complimentary pieces. Overly salted and somewhat chewy this was the first duck of the trip that I felt was of less than stellar sourcing quality – it was a tad gamey and the cane sugar sweetness wasn’t quite enough to temper the briny flavor. Where the duck lacked I was quite impressed by the vanilla and butter accented grits, perfectly cleaned and seared foie, and the sweet yet balanced quince. Consuming the duck with its companion carbs helped, but for $32 the main component of the dish should’ve been better.

It was at this point of the meal that I raised my glass (as noted above) to request a water refill and this must have been witnessed by one of the dining room captains who personally filled the glass and later pulled my server aside near the kitchen – apparently to lecture him – just prior to him bringing me the dinner menu. Browsing the dessert menu and seeing no bread pudding I decided to go with my gut and try something with Banana – in this case Pere Roux’s banana rum cake with Creole cream-cheese icing. Explaining that this dish would take “about ten minutes” to prepare I opted to make my way to the restroom and interestingly walked right past the pastry kitchen upstairs while where the chef was hard at work.

Returning to my table the captain stopped by again and apologized for the “inconvenience” explaining that they had a relatively new staff and many of their more experienced servers were off for the holiday. Explaining to him that it really was not a big deal but thanking him for the concern he told me the dessert would be “on the house” and sure enough neither it nor the coffee appeared on my final bill. When the dessert did arrive it was truly worth the wait – a hand-made layer cake fresh from the kitchen. Featuring interspersed layers of creamy banana butter cake soaked in rum with layers of creamy vanilla accented cream cheese icing and paired with white chocolate shavings, fresh berries, and a smear of caramel this dessert was truly beautiful and equally delicious.

Smiling contently the captain came to check on me again and we talked food for a few moments before I was brought the admittedly modest bill along with the nightly mignardises – two small “praline brittles” that were like crunchy pralines and two lemon accented madelines that were alright but certainly not Daniel, Alex, or Ducasse quality. As an added bonus I was given two of the nightly take-home gifts – on this day a miniature King Cake that was surprisingly moist, textural, and with plenty of cinnamon and sugar – I took the second cake home to my aunt who I met in Chicago and she noted it was still delicious 24 hours later.

Making my way out of Restaurant August I have to say that in total I was quite pleased with the meal but in reality it just didn’t live up to its (then) reputation as one of Gayot’s top 40 restaurants in America. Having had some incredible meals in New Orleans during my stay I guess I went into August expecting to be blown away but what I received was mostly great food, adequate refined service, and a very nice setting at a good price - but then again I received that at every dinner I experienced in New Orleans and in each other case the food was more rustic but just as good, the service more attentive and detailed, and the settings more “old school” but just as pleasant. While I’m glad I experienced August and I certainly respect Chef Besh’s culinary skills if I were given the option to relive one meal in New Orleans August wouldn’t be my first choice.

Luke, New Orleans LA

…the Zulu parade went well – almost too well. I met some great folks, learned a ton about New Orleans culture and the Zulu parade…and being up front, tall, and mobile I caught (or was handed – thank God they don’t throw those things) ten coconuts and a boatload of beads. Having packed light and leaving the following morning I gave away most of the beads and two of the heavier hand-painted nuts to some of the smaller folks – elderly ladies in most cases since the little kids catch more than enough. All in all the Zulu parade was a blast and their costumes, music, and vibe plus the people in the crowd were alone worth the trip to New Orleans.

With the Zulu parade and its subsequent walking groups finishing up around 2:00pm I decided it was time for lunch and proceeded east with my coconuts packed in a large bag. Walking slowly through the crowds and piles of discarded beads I reached the Hilton St. Charles around 2:45 and approached the hostess stand at Luke sans reservations. Greeted by a rather downtrodden young lady I was told “well, there is seating at the bar” when I asked for a table – one of the 20+ that was open. Walking over to the bar and taking a seat I stared blankly at the space in front of me for 5 minutes without anyone addressing me before I stood up and went back to the hostess stand to find a much more pleasant young woman who said “a table for one? Right this way” and led me to a cozy little table near the middle of the restaurant. I really have no idea what to make of the initial interaction as I never saw the first hostess again but I can only assume she was at the end of her shift…or perhaps didn’t even work there?

Greeted almost immediately upon seating by my friendly server – a young man who managed what appeared to be the entire front room without difficulty and maintained the demeanor of someone trained under the Thomas Keller Empire – the service would be perfect throughout. Bread was timely, coffee and water refills spot on, plate descriptions accurate thorough, and all done with a friendly down-to-earth demeanor and a smile. Going over the daily special with me I was left to decide while he went to get my coffee.

Listening to the room – lively but not loud despite the parade going by in the street – I labored over the menu for some time because everything sounded quite good – essentially bistro fare with a southern twist. Returning with the coffee – a great thick blend with a bit of chicory but more prominently cocoa notes (I’m rather certain the same as that at August) I decided to go with the “express lunch” special – a $15 soup and main combo plus an added appetizer. Smiling my server told me I’d made a great choice and slipped away to serve his other tables.

Arriving shortly after my order was placed – yet another crispy and golden French loaf, this time served with a delightful and grassy salted butter. While the bread was not quite as delicious as that at Clancy’s it was my second favorite of the trip and the butter put it over the top – thankfully I limited myself to just the one loaf because it turns out Luke’s “deal” lunch is not for the faint of heart (or stomach.)

Arriving first, my soup – the daily special of crawfish bisque. Clearly tomato and cream based with heavy spicing and ample crawfish the dish was unlike any bisque I’ve ever tasted, but certainly not a gumbo either. Loaded with chunks of fresh crawfish and spicy without being “hot” I liked the bisque and as it would turn out (oddly) to be my only experience with crawfish on the trip I was glad I’d chosen it even though I likely would have preferred the daily gumbo.

My second dish, an addition to the prix fixe, was the Foie Gras – quite frankly, if a place is offering a terrine of Foie I’m probably going to order it. Presented elegantly this terrine proved not only good, but exemplary. Featuring a thick cut of slow cooked terrine painted on all sides with a Gewürztraminer reduction, topped with micro greens and a coarse sea salt, and drizzled with thick and sweet balsamic I can favorably compare this $16 preparation to the $30 supplemented version served at The French Laundry – though it wasn’t quite as airy or delicate. Served with toasted brioche (I was brought more on request) and beautifully textured I would strongly recommend any fan of cold foie to visit Luke for the experience.

Arriving next was the daily special – having looked at the menu I was surprised when it arrived because I expected a sandwich…but the surprise was the good kind…the really good kind. In describing their cochon du lait prep my server told me how the slow roast pork is reduced down similar to pulled pork and then “rehydrated” with a dairy, onion, and garlic reduction (plus the chef’s special spices) and then pan fried crispy on top. If that description doesn’t do it for you – try it…almost a sweet yet creamy pork meatloaf with a crispy and salty skin akin to pork belly. Accompanying the pork on the plate were not only the advertised stewed greens and vinegar laden cherry mustard, but also a hefty helping of cornbread dressing. Call it bistro food, call it soul food, call it comfort food – I call it one of the most unexpectedly delicious dishes I’ve had in some time.

Finishing my pork the server stopped by and since the place was less busy he stood and chatted for a bit – asking where I was from, how I’d heard about the restaurant, and just talking “food culture” in general – he also noted that this was the first Mardi Gras during which he was working and said he was disappointed to be missing the parades. Telling him about the Zulu parade he stated “I can’t believe it” when I told him about the coconuts and proceeded to tell me he’d only managed to catch one a year the previous two seasons. Feeling bad for him having to miss such a great parade I offered him a coconut – “consider it part of the tip” and he graciously accepted. Asking me if I was interested in dessert I told him I didn’t even need the menu – just bring the bread pudding.

Arriving about 15 minutes later as I read a complimentary copy of the New York Times the bread pudding was an absolute masterpiece – the best traditional bread pudding I’ve ever tasted. Described simply as cinnamon raisin bread pudding with vanilla bean ice cream and hot buttered pecan sauce the complexities of the dish were astounding for a bread pudding – piping hot with the smooth and creamy ice cream slowly melting the bread pudding itself was marvelous in custard/bread ratio and the sauce had minimal alcoholic kick while instead focusing on notes of caramel, pecan, cinnamon, and what may have even been honey. Having had a whole lot of bread pudding in my time this was undoubtedly my favorite non-chocolate version to date.

Settling the bargain of a bill and offering me a refill of my coffee to go my server asked where I planned to watch the rest of the parades and I told him I’d likely head back to the Garden District. At this point he informed me that if I walked out the side doors (presumably to the restroom) I’d have full access to the Hilton balcony overlooking St. Charles Avenue. Thanking him greatly for the tip I made my way out and soon found myself standing with less than 20 other people far above the crowds on St. Charles to watch the end of Rex and most of Elks before I bid farewell to the friendly people with me (mostly tourists) and making my way back to the streets.

Stanley and Antoine's Annex, New Orleans LA

…I got back to the hotel early after dinner at Clancy’s and got to bed by 10:30pm – Mardi Gras day was to be an early one as I wanted a good parking spot, early breakfast, and a good place to stand in the Garden District for the Zulu parade. Waking up at 4am I went for a spirited run, showered and shaved, and drove to my favorite parking space at the corner of Elysian Fields and Royal by 6:30. Having planned ahead in my traditional manner I knew Stanley would be opening at their usual time of 7:00am and I was waiting at the door when the servers unlocked and let myself and four others in. Taking a seat “anywhere you like” I opted for a seat along the window, but also with a good view of the kitchen.

Waiting for a good 5 minutes before I was brought a menu I checked out the interior – a decidedly nice space with a relatively nice bistro feel that was only enhanced by the large windows and great view. An open bar with the kitchen open and visible behind I saw the two cooks firing up the grill while soft new-age jazz played over the speakers overhead. Having walked by the space many times during the previous days I can’t say I ever saw it even close to full but I imagine the high ceilings and music could lend to the restaurant getting quite loud at times.

Greeted by my server, a young female who looked as though she’d just rolled out of bed – with a hangover – I was handed the “Mardi Gras menu,” something I’d not expected in that it was extremely limited and they’d not mentioned the limitations when I’d called to ask if they were open. Inquiring why this decision was made I was told that they expected to have “a lot of people in and out all day”…IE “we’re shooting for quick turnover” in my opinion. Ordering a cup of coffee – a relatively standard blend with cocoa notes – I was left to peruse the menu…all ten items of it.

No desserts, pancakes, or French toast I opted for the Eggs Stanley – a dish featuring Cornmeal-Crusted P&J’s Louisiana Oysters, Poached Eggs, Canadian Bacon and Creole Hollandaise on a Toasted English Muffin. Taking less than 15 minutes to arrive I will give credit where credit is due, the oysters and bacon were excellent and every bit as good as those at Brennan’s the day before – albeit less in number and less in price. Properly toasted I also liked the crunchy contrast of the English Muffin and appreciated the well poached eggs – creamy and clearly fresh. With regard to the Hollandaise – it really didn’t add much aside from a buttery flavor and some calories – not much nuance, no spice – but it looked pretty.

Having to request my refills, both of coffee and of water (served in what I swear was a double shot glass,) even though the restaurant was largely empty my server checked on me once again – when I was done with my meal. Asking me if she could get me anything else I stated no, just the bill, and it was delivered to my table moments later. One of the more affordable meals of my visit to New Orleans I guess I can chalk up the sub-standard experience and menu to the Holiday, but I wish they’d have forewarned me when I called.

Leaving Stanley and heading west I wanted to stop and get something sweet to eat while watching the parade and having spied Antoine’s Annex the day before I figured it was worth a shot. Entering the small shop there was no line and the server asked if I needed any help the moment I approached the register. Browsing the items I told him “just a second” and he went back to talking with his colleague who was putting out some of the freshly baked items including an individual King Cake, some croissants, and pastries such as éclairs and napoleons. Being Mardi Gras day I decided to try the King Cake and $3 and 5 minutes later I returned to my westward path arriving near the corner of 1st and St. Charles around 7:20am.

With the parade having started to roll our way I decided to step aside and enjoy my King Cake so that I could focus on taking pictures of the floats and catching some coconuts. Biting into the bagel-sized cake I must say it was quite a bit different from the version I’d tried previously (or would try after,) almost like a baked donut (but not a bagel) in texture with ample notes of cinnamon, vanilla, and butter throughout. Topped with a sugary glaze and sugar crystals in traditional colors the item was quite tasty but certainly not as impressive as the version from Haydel’s – but perhaps that is because I have a bit of a sweet tooth.

Content and full I stood back with the folks along St. Charles and watched what was certainly my favorite day parade, Zulu, roll by along with all the walking groups and other parades to follow. Receiving a phone call from Emeril’s around 11:00 stating that they weren’t sure how/why Opentable had allowed me to make a reservation on a day they were closed - apparently they, unlike the place I ended up dining, couldn’t manage to be open during Mardi Gras due to their location. C’est la vie – lunch proved to be one of the best meals of my trip to NOLA and led to more parade surprises and fun.