Sunday, August 2, 2009

North Pond, Chicago IL

After three days of gastronomic delights in Chicago, my family and I parted ways around 5:30pm on Sunday with them having a 5 hour drive back to Toledo and myself catching a plane back to Cbus at 9:30. Goodbyes exchanged I had them drop me off to meet a friend I hadn’t seen since a particularly memorable meal at Charlie Trotters on December 30th 2008 – a meal that still ranks in my epicurean top 5. Our destination, North Pond, proved a little tricky for me to find (especially carrying all my luggage) but I arrived approximately 2 minutes before our 5:45 reservation. Relaxing in the bar I chatted with a couple while sipping water – the view of the pond truly is excellent – the amount of green-space in Chicago never ceases to amaze.

Unfortunately, despite his GPS, my buddy Dave didn’t plan quite as well ahead as I did and ended up requiring two calls (myself facilitating conversation between him and the host through my cell) in order to find the valet – and arrive at 6:30. While I understand the setting is part of the “deal” with North Pond, they really do need to clarify their directions a wee bit better. No harm no foul though, my bags were checked and my friends car parked and we were seated by the window in the back of the room. Notably missing the “no jeans at dinner” policy, I was glad that no one mentioned it, but I did feel a little self conscious as we sat amongst the well dressed of Chicago.

Having already browed the online menu quite extensively myself and my friend more or less knew what we wanted on arrival, but our orders were delayed by a large party apparently containing a famous author towards the front of the room. While I’ve no idea who the man was, his table commanded much attention and one man was voice recording him while another snapped pictures on a very high end SLR. Eventually our waiter returned to deliver bread and take drink orders. While the bread itself was good enough, the flavor was rather mild and the ice cold butter was nearly impossible to spread – given Chef Sherman’s reputation I rather expected a more impressive bread selection.

With our waiter arriving with drinks (water for me, beer for my friend) my friend inquired as to whether one portion of a dish could be substituted out and was given a very abrupt “no substitutions.” While I told him this would be the case, I did find the waiter’s attitude and reasoning a bit condescending – “we will substitute for allergies but not personal dislikes as the chef is very passionate about his creations.” Not dissuaded we selected one sharable appetizer and while my companion selected hearty main I went the multiple small plates route.

Arriving first, a gift from the kitchen – fitting North Pond’s two ingredient description this captivating little bite was called Hamachi, Avocado and consisted of a flawless piece of hamachi sashimi with avocado paste served over fresh summer melons and what I do believe was zucchini spiced with paprika and perhaps coriander. Unexpected flavor combinations in general but certainly showing a deft hand this dish definitely peaked my interest for what was to come. My friend, not a fan of raw fish, noted “wow, that was good.”

Arriving shortly after the amuse was our shared dish, Charcuterie, Condiments and it featuered House-Made Soppressata, Prosciutto, Chilled Presskopf, Shaved Lardo, Frisée, Candied Pecans, Fig Marmalade, Toast. Having had all but the Presskopf (a vinegary and excellent headcheese made from steer and cow tongue) I was quite impressed by the selection’s myriad flavors and textures with the fatty Lardo (not as good as Batali’s at Otto,) Sweet and Spicy Soppressata, and salty/smoky Prosciutto all proving great examples. While I can’t say the single piece of dried raisin toast added anything to the meal, the candied pecans were excellent with strong accents of cinnamon and the fig marmalade was superb. For added crunch, the cornichons and Frisee were excellent, as well.

Following the Charcuterie closely was my first small plate, served as an appetizer. Entitled Spot Prawns, Mint the dish featured Alaskan Spot Prawns a la Plancha, Mint Handkerchief Pasta, Charred Carrots, Pignolis, Citrus-Anise Hyssop Butter, and Purslane. Admittedly most of my spot prawn experience has been with the significantly larger Santa Barbara version and as such I was confused when this dish arrived. Featuring well prepared and clearly fresh prawns with a good deal of sweetness and great consistency, the combination of flavors in this dish was clearly Oriental inspired with the mild mint pasta hidden beneath the prawns and complimented with smokey carrots, creamy/earthy pine nuts and bitter purslane. Bringing the dish together, ostensibly, was the sweet and decadent butter – unfortunately I found this flavor to be a little cloying and it overwhelmed the fusion of tastes beneath. While certainly not a bad dish, the combination of different expectations of the prawns and the heavy-handed butter just didn’t work as well as had been anticipated.

The next part of the meal was our mains – for my friend the Grassfed Beef, Cauliflower featuring a medium-rare Grilled New York Strip Steak, with Warm Purple and Gold Cauliflower Timbale, Almond Bulghur, Shallot Cream. As I do not eat beef flesh I cannot really comment on the flavor of this dish, but it certainly had a great smell and appearance. Noting that the steak was “great” my friend was additionally impressed by the Cauliflower which he’d originally tried to swap out stating “I didn’t realize cauliflower could be so good.”

While we talked and my friend dined, I started on the first of my two small plates, Farm Egg, Tomato - Soft-Boiled Farm Egg, with Grilled Polenta, Red and Gold Baby Tomatoes, Chicken Nuggets, Ancho Bacon Cream, Nasturtium. Ranging the gamut from crispy and savory polenta to sweet and tart tomatoes, creamy savory bacon cream to sweet and mild nasturtium, and all topped with an incredibly delicate and wonderfully presented soft egg that spilt forth a creamy golden yolk on piercing. Further enhancing the dish ad added even more “breakfast” nuance were the chicken nuggets – literally pieces of “popcorn” chicken fried crispy.

The second dish, the other savory outside of gnocchi and egg dishes that I’ll order pretty much anywhere I go was the Foie Gras. Foie Gras, Apricot – featuring seared Foie Gras, Rosemary-Poached Apricot, Citrus French Toast, Black Raspberries, Coffee Reduction was actually an excellent dish that arrived from multiple angles. While the foie itself was good, I will note that there were two prominent veins in the dish that proved tough to cut – the ancillaries, however, were something to behold. Starting with the Apricot – excellent, I’d have never thought to pair Rosemary with this fruit, yet the effect enhanced both ingredients to a new level. The citrus French toast, essentially a apricot glazed brioche, was excellent for texture though I do wish there had been more. Topping all of this, a tangy blend of black raspberries and the very essence of a bold coffee/fruit-sucrose reduction – while the coffee itself honestly didn’t add much “flavor,” what it did do was create a strong base for the sweets and anchored them to the fatty and rich foie. A very smart dish.

Following dinner we received absolutely no pressure as the place was not crowded and after a short while our waiter asked if we’d like coffee or dessert. Mostly pleased with the meal and service we decided to go ahead with desserts and placed our order – my friend ordering Sorbet, Ice Creams - Blackberry Sorbet; Dark Chocolate and Peanut Brittle-Caramel Ice Creams; Mousse Crisp, Ricotta Donuts, Berries which he said was excellent, though not as good as Trotter’s cake that he still claims is the best dessert of all time.

For myself, dessert was Cherry, Vanilla - Frozen Vanilla Souffle, Brown Butter-Pepper Financier Cake, Bing Cherry-Basil Salad, Sour Cherry Sorbet. A fan of the new-age fashion of adding savories to the dessert course I simply couldn’t pass up the basil and pepper aspects of this dish – but unfortunately one of them was a no show. Featuring a luxurious vanilla ice cream I’m not really certain what was “soufflé” about it – moreso a wonderful ice cream sandwich. Below the icecream was the Financier which although appropriately buttery and tasty sorely lacked anything resembling pepper. Atop the pseudo-soufflé sat a dollop of wonderfully complex and tangy cherry sorbet while the front of the plate was dominated by the highlight of the dish – poached bing cherries tossed with a balsamic and basil reduction. While individual components were all good, topping the rest of the dish with the salad was where the money was at – after doing this I still wondered where the pepper was, but was quite happy without it.

At the end my buddy picked up the tab (a nice gesture! Thanks, Dave!) while I grabbed the tip. As we sat and chatted the room remained largely calm despite the growing crowd and watching the kitchen work was fun. When the clock reached 8:15 we decided to make our way to the door and were wished a good evening. With the valet delivering the car we made good time to O’Hare and I was checked in and ready for my flight by around 8:55. After many hits and a really pricey miss in Chicago, I found North Pond to be somewhere in between. While the setting and service were good, there is definitely an ‘attitude’ to this place that somewhat outstrips the consistency of the food that, although good, is not so refined that it comes out unbelievably over and over. Like a lower end Gramercy Tavern in a much nicer setting.

Lou Malnati's, Chicago IL

Having visited Art of Pizza when my family was too full to enjoy it, we opted for another go around with the windy city’s pizza after spending a few hours in Millennium Park and wandering about Michigan Avenue. Parking all the way back at the park and hiking the three quarters of a mile was not my mother’s idea of fun given the city’s street/sidewalk quality, but the weather was beautiful and a walk was in order after the gluttony of previous days. While Chicago foodies will argue back and forth until the end of time about whether Uno’s founder Ike Sewell or employee Rudy Malnati (whose sons own both Lou Malnati’s and Pizano’s) originally invented the deep-dish, all I wanted was an excellent pie. As my sister had been to Uno and we’d all tried Giordano’s in the past, the choice was Lou Malnati’s or Gino’s East – we opted for Lou’s.

Arriving just after 1:00pm the patio was open but we opted to eat indoors at the River North location on Wells Street. Greeted promptly by a friendly young waitress who I honestly couldn’t believe was old enough to serve a beer, our waters were filled quickly and my sister opted for a local Goose Island 312 while my aunt and mother chose their standard iced tea. Orders placed we sat and waited while examining the kitschy bar interior and laughing as the crowd burst into boos while watching the Yankees put up a few runs on the White Sox.

Waiting for about 10 minutes we were brought our first item, Lou's Bruschetta with fresh chopped tomato and basil tossed with olive oil and served with homemade garlic toast. Excellent and crisp Italian toast with a mild although notably clean tasting olive oil and subtle use of garlic was matched well by the impressively fresh tomatoes and aromatic basil. While it wasn’t listed, I detected a bit of rosemary in the dish that added additional complexity. At less than $5 the portion was generous and the quality excellent.

Finishing our bruschetta it was another 20 minutes before the young lady arrived to tell us our pizza would be out soon. Interestingly, my mother began sorting plates from the center of the table at this time and noted one to be quite dirty. Showing this to the server the server stated “hmm, well, all our plates are in the washer now but I’ll see if I can find one.” With nearly twenty Lou’s operating in Illinois, I’d like to think their flagship would have a bit more tableware – or that someone in the place could hand wash a dish.

Arriving in about 10 minutes, along with a fresh plate, was our main event – a medium Lou with Buttercrust, Fresh spinach, mushrooms and sliced tomatoes covered with a blend of mozzarella, romano and cheddar cheese. Served in prototypical deep-dish glory the pie came steaming hot with cheese still bubbling and the thick buttery crust layered all the way to the top of the pan. An intoxicating aroma I had to bear in mind the temperature to make sure I didn’t burn my mouth digging in. Slicing the pizza with an enormous pizza cutter we were each plated a hefty slice and waters and teas were refilled.

Not quite as traditional as the standard sausage/cheese variety of deep dish, this glorious pile of cheese and veggies topped with a hearty tomato sauce was quite excellent with a great juxtaposition of buttery, creamy, savory, sweet, and crunchy. While the sauce wasn’t quite as impressive as Art’s, the use of multiple cheeses added a lot of nuance to the dish and really set it apart from “other” Chicago Pizzas – the whole tomatoes and garlicky mushrooms were also excellent and I particularly loved the butter crust as it was crisp on bite but gave way to the teeth and nearly melted in the mouth. While the menu stated a “medium” would be enough for 3, the heft of this pie made that a challenge that took some time to complete – with myself doing most of the legwork.

When the meal ended we were asked if we’d like dessert – and while I still do regret not experiencing the deep dish chocolate chip cookie, I had dinner plans with an old friend at North Pond later in the evening and didn’t want to chance it. All told really enjoyed Lou’s and the price can’t be beat – were it not for the beverages we’d have likely been out of there under $25 all inclusive. While I must say I liked Art’s Pizza better, the service and style at Malnati’s was excellent and it’d be a great place to catch a game with friends. A long walk back to Millennium Park interrupted by more shopping was a great way to close out the trip with my family and I’m glad we had a chance to try Lou’s. Gino’s East or Uno is next.

m.henry, Chicago IL

After Alinea I passed out – despite a 2.5 hour nap between Primehouse and Alinea the nearly 270 minute experience left me thrilled, full, and exhausted. Waking up the next morning about an hour later than I normally would have and taking a trip to the gym I rallied the troops, we checked out of our hotel, and we were off to breakfast – though admittedly I could’ve easily gone to midday without being hungry. Having missed out on m.henry on our previous trip and having heard great stories of their breakfast bread pudding, however, skipping breakfast wasn’t going to happen. Arriving shortly after 9:30am we found the place bustling and busy – but only a 20 minute wait. Wandering around North Clarke street we killed time walking into La Baguette Panaderia – don’t go there, the food is awful – one bite of their caramel empanada was more than enough to warrant its place on the curb for the pigeons.

Taking our seats at a small back table in m.henry after only a 12 minute wait I was instantly reminded of Over Easy in decoration and Griddle Café in efficient hustle/bustle. Waiters, plates, and patrons everywhere our friendly server stopped by to get drink orders – coffee, tea, oj, oj. Within minutes he returned with our beverages and was ready for orders. Selecting a couple “appetizers” first, just as we did at Yolk, and then ordering our mains – myself asking for a recommendation amongst 3 – I was surprised at how quickly the line had grown – out front I heard the lady saying an hour-or-so wait – arrive before 10am, people.

Arriving first, a cinnamon roll – shared by the table and ever so fluffy, albeit somewhat bland compared to the stellar version at Yolk. While appropriately cinnamony, the overall essence of butter was lacking and the frosting was somewhat too sweet. While certainly not bad or grainy/low quality like Cinnabon, it wasn’t Yolk’s.

The second arrival was essentially the reason we came in the first place, the bread pudding. Thick cut brioche, milky custard, blackberry, peaches, raspberry – M. henry calls it ‘amazing’ and I can’t say I disagree too much. Sharing this around amongst 4 people the helpings were still quite ample. Having had only a few versions similar to this selection I can’t say it was the “best” I’ve ever had, but it is undoubtedly a great representation with the heavy notes of butter, cream, and egg custard coming through beneath the wonderful fruits.

Following the bread pudding was a long period during which coffee wasn’t refilled – I realize the place was busy, but they need a system – whether it be the circulating coffee lady like Cici’s or the individual pots/presses like Griddle Café. After I finally flagged down a server the cup was kept full and I was actually given “one for the road.” While not quite as excellent as the Intelligentisa, I did like the Metropolis Blend they were serving.

Arriving soon, the main events – first for myself the Cinnamon Raisin French Toast with Peaches, Raspberries, Cream suggested by our server. Featuring house made and THICK-CUT cinnamon raisin bread that would’ve been awesome on its own and absolutely loaded with fresh sweetened cream, incredibly plump and flavorful berries, plus a crunchy granola with accents of apple and cinnamon – this blew the bread pudding out of the water. Crispy on the outside yet pillowy and fluffy on the inside the bread actually stood up well to the cream throughout the indulgence – though admittedly this didn’t last long.

The second dish, again ordered by my mother because she didn’t want something “too sweet.” Bacon wrapped baked eggs with polenta & mixed field greens – well, I admit I like bacon, baked eggs, and especially polenta – and this was really good. While I personally would’ve preferred the yolks a little runny, that would not have been ideal for my mother and as such this dish was very much a crowd pleaser with its rustic feel presented in a totally unique way – essentially a bacon cone filled with the two organic eggs and atop a creamy polenta mash. Topping the salad, to note, was a wonderfully tart fig vinaigrette that m.henry should sell or publish the recipe too – it worked really well with the savory bacon tinged dish.

Back to the sweet stuff with my aunt - Heavenly Four Berry Hotcakes - Raspberry, Strawberry, Blackberry, Blueberry. M.henry refers to their pancakes as “blisscakes” and I can’t really say that description is too far off. Similar in texture to Dennis Leary’s absolutely mind-blowing souffled strawberry pancake at Canteen these cakes were wonderfully light and fluffy and then topped with more fluffiness in the form of powdered sugar and a thick and airy strawberry cream sauce.

The final dish, ordered by my sister, may have been the best of the bunch. Key lime & apricot brioche french toast – quite honestly, you have to taste it to appreciate it, but suffice it to say this was better than any Key Lime pie I’ve ever tasted and I think a lot of that was due to the complimentary flavor of the Apricot, but also to manner in which the buttery and sweet brioche interplayed with the creamy and nearly panna cotta thick lime cream – the apricot reduction didn’t hurt either. Like the cinnamon bread, I imagine this bread is only modestly presoaked and then cooked on a very hot griddle as the interior was still bready while the outside was flawlessly “French toast crisp.”

High end ingredients, wonderful preparations, a staff with great suggestions, and a really cool little setup with good prices – I really can’t ask for too much more than that. Actually, yes I can, free parking – and they had that too. Not as childishly decadent as Bongo Room yet every single dish hit it out of the park. A much longer wait here than Yolk or Over Easy, but to be fair I’d wait 3x as long at M.Henry than either. When it was all said and done we walked out of M. Henry realizing exactly what all the hype is about – “Chow for Now” is their slogan, but this Chow will easily withstand the test of time.

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Alinea, Chicago IL

Greatness comes in degrees, especially in dining - what is great to one may taste 'fishy' or 'bland' to another; words like "challenging," "avant garde," and "evolutionary," however, are far less open to interpretation are palate. Having experienced refined "greatness" at The French Laundy, Charlie Trotter's, Alex, and others along and less great yet "challenging" foods at The Bazaar and Moto in the past it was with great excitement yet some reserve that I walked into Alinea exactly 2 months after making my reservation - using my previous experiences with "mg" to temper my expections of the tenth best restaurant in the world I hoped the hype wouldn't be impossible to live up to.

Being in the medical field I had actually first heard of Chef Achatz in early 2008 (despite his long history of tenure at such restaurants as Charlie Trotter, Trio, and The French Laundry and Alinea's actual opening in 2005) when I read about his diagnosis of squamous cell carcinoma - an incredibly rare disease in a non-tobacco user. Fascinated by his story and his unique culinary style I'd had Alinea on my short list for some time but had not yet had the chance to dine there as the restaurant had ironically been on winter break during my two previous visits to the windy city. In my typical fashion I'd done my homework and contacted the restaurant prior to my arrival in order to make them aware of my distaste for beef - a simple request that was easily handled by the gracious and helpful staff.

Arriving approximately 15 minutes prior to my 8:30 reservation I certainly would've walked past the unmarked building had I not known what I was looking for. Stopping to take a picture and then entering the long white hallway I was instantly greeted by the host and told my "experience is being readied" - apparently meaning my table wasn't clean yet. To pass my time? "How about a tour of the kitchen?" I graciously accepted and walked about the enormous prep room where greater than 30 chefs and sous-chefs all smiled but remained intent on their work. Moving about the room finishing plates and suggesting augmentations was Chef Achatz - given the size and complexity of the dishes I was simply stunned at how controlled everything was. Taking a seat at the small table outside the kitchen I glanced through the Alinea Book for about 3 minutes before being led to my seat in the corner overlooking the downstairs dining area. As expected, the room was full - which is to say there was a total of 11 other diners in the incredibly well spaced room.

Comfortably seated and appreciating the combination of ambient and active lighting the room had a sleek but classic feel to it featuring ebony tables, custom chairs, and unique modern art. Greeted by one of my 4 servers for the night (well, 5, but we'll get to that later) I was brought my centerpiece - a black vessel with a sprig of rosemary. As many have previously noted the centerpiece at Alinea often becomes functional as the meal goes on and this was no exception. With water filled the sommelier stopped by to assist me with wines - interestingly, despite my non-drinking status the somm still spent significant time at my table assisting as a server and presenter and actually turned out to be one of the most interesting and down to earth persons I've met in some time - listening to him talk beer and wine with the neighboring table was especially intriguing.

Beginning the tour, my first dish of the evening was delivered approximately 15 minutes after seating. Entitled "Steelhead Roe-Traditional Garnishes" the dish featured a smokey roe sourced from Chef Achatz's first boss in Grand Rapids Michigan paired with traditional flavors in nontraditional forms - specifically bread foam and a dollop of egg-dill crème fraîche. Tasting the roe first and then the dish as a whole I was impressed by the manner in which the initial sweet/buttery notes quickly gave way to the smokey saltiness of the roe and this flavor smoothly transitioned to the smooth/sour-creaminess of the dill-egg-drop. Very impressive, even for someone who largely considers caviar overrated.

Dish two, "Pork Belly-Iceberg, Cucumber, Thai Distillation" was delivered with instructions - those being to first drink the Thai green chili shot - similar to the greek salad at Moto, but much less pungent the shot was a good primer with a dash of heat. Following this was a "stacked" salad of crispy iceberg lettuce cups layered with pork belly and cucumber atop a sweet dressing laden with basil seeds and perhaps coconut. Rousing tastes of Chang's Pork Buns at Momofuku yet vastly more refined the overall effect was superb with sweet/fatty contrasting well against crisp/savory.

Served with the second dish was the first of the four breads for the evening – a savory and smoky Lime-Cilantro roll. Served with a delicate house made goat's milk butter and another house-churned cow's milk butter topped with Hawaiian black lava salt the breads arrived from time to time and other options for the evening included a slice honey-coriander loaf with dish four, a bacon callah with dish 8, and a buttery dinner roll with dish sixteen – each was excellent and clearly meant to compliment the dish with which it arrived.

Dish three, a single bite, was "Oxalis-Juniper, Gin, Sugar." Essentially a sour bud of the perennial encased in a gelatin cube of sweet juniper berry, bitter gin, and a flavor similar to lemon or lime the overall flavor was brief and fleeting yet potent with the initial sweetness giving way to a mild bitter.

Dish number four of the evening was the first dish to truly make me gasp “wow” of the evening – it was called “Lilac-Scallop, Shellfish, Honeydew” and it was perfection. Explained with emphasis on the freshness of each ingredient the dish consisted of a mélange of scallops shucked immediately prior to service, razor and littleneck clams served piping hot, and crisp celery tempered against honeydew foam, melon balls, and “lilac pillows” of panna cotta. Briny but light, pungent yet floral, crisp yet smooth – and honeydew that didn’t overwhelm but simply complemented – a virtual rollercoaster of experiences in a single dish.

Dish five – to quote Monty Python – ‘and now for something completely different’ – “Pigeonneau a la Saint Clair.” Complete with 19th century flatware, wineglass, and plating this dish was meant to evoke thoughts of a classic time – specifically the time of French gourmand Georges Auguste Escoffier. Utilizing none of Achatz’s ‘molecular gastronomy’ but instead a classic and straight forward recipe direct from Le Guide Culinare, this dish seemed to me almost a cheeky poke at those who treat Alinea’s ultra-modernism as a flaw and a statement that classic technique certainly has its place in their kitchen. A pure lesson in refined French cooking the crispy buttery tart was expertly topped with tender squab, pearl onions, fresh mushrooms, and creamy balls of foie gras all accented by a wonderful au jus. As a non-drinker I was additionally served a glass of Cherry, Balsamic, Thyme Soda that was easily better than any house-made soda I’ve ever tasted.

Following the classy retrospective, one of Grant’s signatures – “Black Truffle-Explosion, Romaine, Parmesan.” Served in the anti-plate there really isn’t much to say about this dish that hasn’t already been said – like chef Keller’s Oysters and Pearls this is simply something that must be experience to be understood. With instructions to fit the whole raviolo in the mouth and seal your lips before biting down the truffle stock filled item topped with lettuce and parmesan simple explodes and fills not only the mouth but also the palate, nose, and limbic system with a sense of awe. If something can indeed taste “more” like what it is than the actual item, this is it – it is like a black truffle, but moreso.

Sitting and savoring the lingering memories of the explosion I was next brought a garden – literally. Delivered to my table in a hefty stone pot was an enormous tomato plant in a bowl full of potting soil, steaming hot rocks, and olive essence – the air instantly filled with the smell of a fresh summer garden and reminded me of days picking vegetables or shopping the farmers market at home. What followed the pot, however, was anything but familiar. Featuring 3 types of organic heirloom tomatoes from raw and crisp to poached and sweet, “Tomato-Fig, Nicoise Olive, Pine Nuts” was quite possibly my favorite savory of the evening. Paired with the tomatoes were an olive oil snow, pine nut both crumbled and whole, figs of varying types and textures, and multiple emulsifications of nicoise olive/fig gel – a veritable playground of tastes, textures, temperatures, and flavors that invited the lucky diner to not only mix and match but to simply bathe in the experience of fresh vegetables expertly prepared.

Dishes eight, nine, and ten were served as a trio and the diner was instructed to eat them in order from smallest to largest – a myriad of unique flavors all consumed under the essence of burning cinnamon – very nice. The first bite, “Mustard-Passionfruit, Allspice” consisted of a single bite – an ice cream lozenge if you will. Having tasted mustard ice cream once at Rosendale’s in Columbus and a mustard-green slush at Manresa I had some idea of what to expect – but was completely wrong. Spicy yet mellowed by the icy temperature, the mustard itself actually came though only in heat and base-note – what truly came to the palate was the sexy essences of passion fruit spliced with savory allspice. After consuming the following dishes I understood the order – this wonder truly opened the palate.

The next dish, “Bacon-Butterscoth, Apple, Thyme” is another Achatz classic and features a single crisp slice of salty bacon that contrasts yet compliments the long lasting taste of caramel/butterscotch. Adding a bit of fibrous contrast and a mild degree of fragrance are apple and thyme – if I had to compare the dish to anything it would actually be a caramel apple with nuts, strangely.

The final dish of the trio and the source of the cinnamon hue lingering throughout the dining area was “Sweet Potato-Bourbon, Brown Sugar, Smoldering Cinnamon.” Served in the squid and still piping hot despite my lingering over the bacon and mustard, this handsome dish was essentially deep fried sweet potato pie with heavy top-notes of bourbon meant to be eaten off of the smoldering stick of cinnamon. Spicy, woody, dare I say “camp-firey” and unique yet entirely familiar – incredible.

Completing the “first half” of the meal in shortly under two hours, act two began anew with another chef’s classic – the famous “Hot Potato-Cold Potato, Black Truffle, Butter.” Raised with a Hungarian Grandmother one of the memories of my childhood was her wonderful albeit unrefined potato soup – older now with a more refined palate I still miss that soup…or at least I did until I tasted this. Instructed to hold the paraffin bowl in my left hand and remove the pin with my right hand the dish proved a conceptual exploration of the contrast of hot and cold with the truffle topped steaming hot potato falling into the icy cold truffle potato soup. Taken in a single shot the varying textures and temperatures provide a provocative mouth feel while the flavors harkened back to childhood in an entirely different way – sure it would ruin the hot/cold concept, but I’d eat this dish by the crock-pot if allowed the chance. Pay close attention as your server collects the dish – one of the unique joys at Alinea is their toys – in this case a magnetic wand to collect the pin from the table.

Still mesmerized by the previous course, dish twelve arrived shortly thereafter and once again re-invented its constituents by presenting them in totally unexpected ways. “Yuba-Shrimp, Miso, Togarashi” featured a crispy stick of tofu skin with a spiral cut gulf shrimp coursing down its length and then coated with chives and spicy togarashi. Situated like a pen in an inkwell, the well itself contained a miso-mayo that lent a sweet aspect to the dish and mellowed out the heat while enhancing the savory components.

Dish thirteen proved an unlucky dish to photograph as it was served in a round-bottomed bowl that required holding in the hand until completion. “Foie Gras-Peach, Fennel, Shiso” was served on as two small pieces of peach and two small sections of pate on a fork which was delicately balanced over a pungent yet sweet puree of foie/fennel/and peach. Unique in texture, I was particularly fond of the overall aromatic presentation to the palate that was accomplished by balancing the rich and cool liver with the sweet/tart components. The liquid beneath reminded me of a lemony version of Daniel Humm’s Strawberry/Foie sorbet at EMP.

Dish fourteen was the first dish of the evening that contained something I’d never heard of – “Mangosteen-Oyster, Mint, Yuzu.” Listening to the description with much anticipation given the unique “nut-like” shell and subsequently doing some research it appears the Mangosteen is akin to the pomegranate given its production of an aril, but the taste/texture is anything but. Nutty and rich with a creamy and almost vanilla flavor, the mangosteen fruit actually bore a lot of similarity in texture to a fresh oyster – clearly this too was noted by Chef Achatz who chose to present the fruit paired with an oyster laden cream accented with mint and contrasted with the tangy zest of yuzu. Truly unique and truly delicious – known as the “queen of fruit” I shall certainly seek out the Mangosteen on future menus.

Dish fifteen and finally the centerpiece came into play – entitled “Lamb-Minted Peas, Cherry, Rosemary Fragrance” the dish was served with chopsticks and consisted of three flawless pieces of lamb tartare topped with minted peas, black cherry, and rosemary from front to back. The “plate” for this dish (handled with an oven mitt due to the heat) was actually a 500 degree block of iron with a hole in the back – a hole into which the sprig of rosemary from my centerpiece was inserted instantly singing the sprig and releasing the oily and beautiful scent of the fine herb. Starting with the minted peas and following with the rosemary and finally the cherry pieces of lamb I was wowed by how each ingredient added a different nuance to the fatty lamb. Thankfully I was warned to wait a few seconds before popping the pieces into my mouth as the bottoms were still sizzling – a burned tongue for what was to come would’ve been a tragedy. Like the hot potato dish another “device” was produced to collect this dish – a metal peg and silicone pad that allowed the plate to be lifted effortlessly while protecting the wood and the server’s hand.

The final savory of the evening was my only substitution – seeing the dish presented at the table next to me as Wagyu beef I expected a variation and sure enough, “Halibut-Powdered A1, Potato, Chips” arrived with a show. A playful take on summer-grilling, this delectable morsel of flawlessly prepared and lemon accented fish simply melted in the mouth with its crispy flesh giving way to a nearly sashimi textured interior – the way fish is supposed to take and on par with the sous vide versions at Providence. Aside the fish was a “packet” of A1 – or rather the powdered essence of the original recipe with high notes of anchovy and raisin and more refined undertones of clove – and sea salt plus freshly cracked black pepper. The potato component, appearing almost as a tater-tot, was actually a puree of butter and potato coated with panko and flash fried – honestly it may have been better than the fish! Accompanying this masterpiece was the second utilization of my centerpiece – a vessel containing dry ice and “elements of the grill.” With hot water added the high-school-science-esque volcano erupted with the scent of onion, garlic, charcoal, lemon, and smoke and simulated the smell of a barbeque indoors – much more effective than that time we attempted to grill in our freshman dorm at OSU.

Appropriately wowed by what I’d just experienced I was informed that I’d be moving onto dessert next and was once again brought a trio. Instructed to once again take them in order, the first dish – “Watermelon-Lime, Nasturtium” was a hard-shelled sphere made of lime and filled with a pink center – like a watermelon. Sitting in a broth of Nasturtium the optical-illusion of a shot glass was consumed and the sphere exploded I the mouth creating a flavor much akin to Hawaiian Punch.

Following this dish was a long cylinder – “Bubble Gum-Long Pepper, Hibiscus.” Instructed to place the tube in my mouth like a cigar and “suck hard” on the purple end what followed was a rollercoaster of scents, tastes, and textures that due to the method of delivery actually filled the nose, mouth, and sinuses with the very essence of Bubble Gum. Interestingly, despite the overarching “theme” of the flavor, the distinct tastes of tangy hibiscus, bitter long-pepper, and sour crème fraiche accented with bubble-yum tapioca pearls were all notable as they traversed the mouth.

The final part of the trio, another Achatz classic – “Transparency-of Raspberry, Yogurt” was sort of a blend between a fruit roll-up and a piece of rock candy. Thin, hard, and served in a metal clip I wanted to steal for business card holding purposes the wonderfully tart raspberry was well tempered by the smoothness of yogurt and the high notes/fragrance of rose-petal.

Moving on and getting full (no worries, not full enough) I was next brought one of Alinea’s pillows – this time filled with Lavender Air. Accompanying the pillow, “Rhubarb-Goat Milk, Onion, Lavender Air.” Setting the plate atop the pillow the diner is instantly welcomed to this experience with a slow release of lavender tones that seem to last forever. Atop the plate and actually well complimented by the floral tones is yet another exploration of textures and aromas with goats milk cheesecake, rhubarb marmalade, sweet onion cotton candy, rhubarb jelly, crystallized rhubarb, and a milky yet sweet onion accented ice cream. Seemingly entirely out of place, this dish actually reminded me of desserts at Providence and Charlie Trotter’s where several disparate elements somehow come together to equal a whole vastly more impressive than the sum of their parts.

Asked if I’d like coffee at this point I accepted – served after the completion of the next two dishes (IE, around 12:10am on 08/02) the double press of Intelligentsia Sumatran blend was quite good – though I will admit I was a tad annoyed when this appeared as an $8 surcharge on my bill. Certainly not a big deal given the price and quality, but if I have one gripe about incredible fine dining it is strange surcharges like this (Alex, TFL, Trotter’s, and Providence have coffee included – fyi.) All that said, when something so small as that is your only gripe in a 4.25 hour meal…yeah.

Arriving next was a young man I hadn’t seen before – and he was carrying what appeared to be a tarp – actually a long silicone drape (I later overheard a story at my neighboring table about how these drapes were invented and also how they are cleaned – a two day process that evolved my respect for Achatz’s dedication even further.) What followed the drape being spread on my table was the arrival of ~10-15 small bowls and plates – and then a surprise I couldn’t have even imagined – Chef Achatz himself arriving to the table to prepare my dessert tableside – for 2 minutes and 6 seconds. If a picture is worth a thousand words, look below. I say a video is worth a million – watch here: Simply called “Chocolate-Blueberry, Tobacco, Maple” the dish was a masterpiece served by a master – poached blueberries, blueberry gelee, spherified maple syrup, a block of chocolate mousse frozen with liquid nitrogen, malt icecream, tobacco infused cream, thyme…just turn up the volume and listen to the man. Only 2 tables in the room (mine and my neighbor’s immediately afterward) had the chef himself prepare the dish – an honor I’ll remember as much as the signed menu I received at meal’s end.

The final dish of the evening, a mignardise of sort, was “Pound Cake-Strawberry, Lemon, Vanilla Bean.” Much like the Sara Lee pound cake that my server suggested this was modeled after in texture I actually found the flavor more akin to Junior’s famous strawberry cheesecake with its subtle hints of lemon and heavy essence of vanilla imparted by the vanilla bean used as a serving tool.

When it was all said and done I sat and sipped my coffee while reflecting on the meal – was it the best ever, was it “once in a life time,” was it worth the trip for any foodie – yes, maybe, and yes. Comparing Alinea to my other two favorite meals ever – an extended tasting at The French Laundry and a spontaneous tasting menu at Providence – I simply cannot get over how much Achatz reinvents your idea of what is and what can be done in the kitchen with each and every dish. While Yountville’s 3-starred establishment turns out flawless dish after flawless dish each and every time, Grant’s kitchen does the same and with more gusto, more flourishes, and a smaller bill. With regard to the “maybe” above – I only say that because there is no doubt I’ll be back – but unless Chef Achatz presents to my table to prepare a course again this meal was most definitely “once in a lifetime.”