Thursday, March 31, 2011

Union Square Cafe, New York NY

If I had to make a list of what I love about New York it would include a number of things; the people, the art, the food, the overall “feel” of the city itself– those to start, plus the Union Squre Hospitality Group – a team that had provided me seven meals at six different locations in the past five visits over the course of four years. Rarely one to dine at the same place twice and generally not a fan of “restaurant groups” one might wonder what it is that USHG does that keeps me coming back over and over again and to that I will say it isn’t only what they do now, but what they did on my very first visit – they made me feel like they care and despite the many changes in my life over the past four years they continue to do so now. Taking that into consideration along with the city, the food, and my friends (plus a little bit of art as it turns out) it really only made sense to end my last trip to The Big Apple at Union Square Café, Danny Meyer’s very first restaurant.

Having admittedly dined very well during each of my visits to New York it actually seemed somewhat strange to me that I’d really never considered USC on my previous visits but as is the case with much of Gotham there always seemed to be something bigger, better, flashier, or newer – especially considering the relatively downscale “Italian-esque” (my words, not theirs) menu when compared to places like The Modern, EMP, or Gramercy Tavern. Always the bridesmaid despite the fact that the spot has essentially redefined New York dining since 1985 while remaining #1 on Zagat’s list of most popular restaurants in the city for the better part of ten years I will admit here that USC almost didn’t even make the cut for this trip either, but with a late change to the ABC Kitchen menu and some time restrictions due to my flight plus ready, willing, and able co-diners the stars finally aligned.

With reservations set for the middle of the lunch hour – a table for three in the main dining room – my arrival at Union Square Café would be perfectly in step with my friends despite the gloomy weather and exchanging pleasantries now for the fourth straight day our coats were checked and we were led through the loud bar area to a quiet and cozy table in the middle of the 3/4 dining room right away. Greeted promptly on seating by our server, a friendly middle-aged man who would keep beverages and bread basket full throughout the afternoon the menu was presented and we were left to our conversations and decisions.

With wooden chairs and white tableclothed tables atop the hardwood floors and light pastels adorning the walls the feel of Union Square Café was decidedly upscale – something like Café Boulud but not quite as tightly spaced – and with a large menu our decision process became one of capacity more so than what sounded best, a decision process helped along by not only our server but General Manager Sam Lipp, an absolutely wonderful host well known to my friends from his long tenure with the Union Square Hospitality Group.

With decisions finally made, essentially two appetizers to be shared as appetizers, two appetizers to serve as my main, and an entrée for each of my friends the first item to arrive from the kitchen was the bread basket and a sizable bowl of olives along with butter topped in celery salt. Having always been impressed by the USHG bread selections this offering would again prove quite good with a tasty Fennel-Seed flatbread and crusty whole wheat holding up their end while the baguette was somewhat flavorless and soft. In addition to the bread the olives were a nice touch while the butter was smooth, grassy, and slightly sweet.

Nibbling on bread while chatting amongst ourselves and again with Mr. Lipp who stopped by with Michael’s wine our first plates to arrive were a pair of dissimilar bedfellows – the first titled “Chinese 5 Spice Fried Duck Meatballs - French Fried Confit, Snow Pea-Cabbage Slaw” and featuring five succulent golf ball sized rounds of tender duck confit blended with ample notes of cinnamon and anise and fried to perfection. Paired with a mild slaw and topped with sweetened fermented soy sauce, soy seeds, and carrot vinaigrette the plate could have stood to be a little warmer in my opinion, but for a restaurant leaning toward Italy their take on Eastern flavors was quite good.

For the second shared appetizer of the afternoon we opted to go with the house specialty as recommended by our server and arriving with more than a dozen creamy dumplings the “Ricotta Gnocchi - Tomato-Basil Passatina, Pecorino Romano” was every bit as good as billed. Amongst my favorite foods whether in the form of potato, choux, spinach, or cheese these smooth balls of mild cheese could not have been lighter and adecorated sparsely with mildly sweet tomato sauce and a hefty grating of Pecorino the flavors were like a hint of spring – vegetal, fresh, and delicious.

Making short work of our appetizers it would be perhaps twenty minutes before our main courses would follow and with the business lunch crowd now heading back to their workplaces the pace of the restaurant as well as the volume in the bar became much more relaxed. With a second wine poured to go with my friend’s main course his choice was “Wild Striped Bass alla Barcaiola - Soft Polenta, Broccoli Rabe.” Featuring easily 12 ounces of nicely prepared fish alongside smooth yet textural polenta blended with aged cheese and tender broccoli rabe the most interesting aspect of this dish actually proved to be the sauce, a blend of anchovies, capers, and garlic that we were told came from a nearly quarter-century old recipe and the sort of flavors I’d have never thought to pair with such a mild protein, but flavors that none-the-less worked and brought out some of the heavier meaty tones of the fish.

Moving on to Rosalind’s selection this meal would once again see her order the Lamb Chops – and this time there was enough to go around and then some to take home. Titled “
Lamb Chops "Scotta Dita" - Swiss Chard, Potato-Gruyère Gratin” and prepared just past medium these ample slices of young lamb were nicely charred on the grill and full of flavor on their own, but adding nuance was a glaze/sauce described as an admixture of mustard, balsamic, and garlic that simply made the flavors all the more savory and bold. With the protein’s flavor profile so pronounced, the plate mates in this case turned out to be largely overshadowed but tasty, on one hand bitter chard kissed with olive oil and balsamic and on the other a crispy au gratin potato with very mild cheese and a bit too little salt for my tastes.

Moving on to my selection – two half-portion appetizers actually – my first choice was described as a house favorite and on tasting the “Lasagna alla Bolognese - With Sunny Side Up Knoll Krest Egg” I instantly understood why. First off, beginning with the noodles and the sauce – the first perfectly al dente and the second zippy and slightly acidic with an almost chorizo smokiness to the pork – stopping there it would have been one of the better lasagnas I’ve ever tasted. Then add an egg – a smooth and runny one at that – let’s just say I mopped the plate clean.

Speaking of wiped the plate clean, as good as the lasagna and first plate of gnocchi may have been, my second entrée was perhaps the best pasta of the bunch; Potato Gnocchi - Gorgonzola Fonduta, Radicchio, Vin Cotto. Beginning first with the pasta, this time a potato based dumpling even lighter than the first, they were as good as any I’ve had in New York. Moving next to the toppings – the word “inspired” jumped to mind immediately as the saline cheese proved a perfect foil to the peppery flavors of the Radicchio while the sweet wine served to give everything a bit more pizzazz and a dusting of basil breadcrumbs added just a bit of crunch.

Full but not stuffed and having already scoped out the dessert menu on the way in our server returned to inquire if anyone wanted coffee and with a trip to the airport ahead of me I declined while Rosalind opted for decaf. Knowing for sure that USC’s signature Banana Tart was on our my list to try we inquired about the other options and when no concensus could be reached for which three sounded best we did the only logical thing we could and ordered four.

Beginning first with the aformentioned tart – a recipe that has apparently been being served since USC first opened – the
Banana Tart, Macadamia Brittle, and Honey-Vanilla Ice Cream proved every bit worth its designation as a signature dish with the base formed of buttery shortbread studded with Macadamia nuts supporting what was likely an entire banana sliced and coated with a crackling caramel shell. Certainly not a dessert for those with loose teeth (or fillings) the intensely sweet tart was nicely complimented by the ice cream and five lovely caramel coated macadamia nuts who also joined the party.

With the first banana dessert a resounding success, the second would prove perhaps even better – a dessert described as Banana Pretzel Cream Pie with Calvados Caramel and Milk Chocolate Ice Cream and stacked top to bottom with sweet cream atop a layer of sliced bananas supported by soft yet crunchy cake comprised of rich dark chocolate and crushed salted pretzels. Again substantial in sweetness and in portion the dish was finished with a boozy and smoky caramel sauce plus mild chocolate ice cream – an ice cream that despite its great flavor actually proved to serve as a balance to the otherwise intense sweetness of the dish.

With no more bananas left on the menu another dessert we sampled was the Mascarpone Cheesecake with Fennel Shortbread, Meyer Lemon Confit, Grapefruit Sorbet, a dish that was clearly not my choice given my overall laissez-faire attitude about citrus, but a dessert that was none-the-less impressive particularly for the textural aspects of the cheesecake and the manner in which the mild fennel tones served to balance out the acidity of the lemon and grapefruit.

Moving on to our last dessert, my personal selection amongst the four, I opted for the Brioche French Toast with Roasted Apples and Brown Sugar Ice Cream – the least “wowing” of the four in terms of presentation, yet simple and delicious with an airy custard soaked brioche resting in a pool of cinnamon and sugar kissed roasted apples and a quenelle of maple-toned ice cream. It could have been breakfast were it five hours earlier or it could have been dessert five hours later; it was and would be delicious any time.

With desserts plates now vacant our server once again stopped by to see if there was anything else we needed and declining the bill was left to be paid at our leisure. With my friends near to their apartment and myself with time to kill before going to pick up my bags to head to LGA we spent the next twenty to thirty minutes again chatting about the many great meals of my last two trips to New York and once again Sam Lipp stopped by to make sure all had gone well and inviting us to return any time as most of the menu changes frequently – something I would definitely consider given the quality of the meal and the service, both of which were not the same as EMP, The Modern, or Gramercy Tavern but something very warm, familiar, welcoming, and exactly what I’ve come to expect from the Union Square Hospitality Group.

Shopsin's, New York NY

I love kitschy breakfasts – big pancakes covered with sauce or (and?) syrup, a waffle with pie and ice cream, deep fried bacon and egg sandwiches with a peanut butter banana doughnut, bread pudding drowned in chocolate after chicken and bacon waffles; I’ve had all the above plus foie gras atop duck hash yet obscure hours and bad had thus far managed to foil my attempts New York’s parlor of kitsch; the well documented (yeah, there is a documentary) Shopsin’s General Store at the Essex Market. Vowing that I’d not be denied this time around and with my conference now over the day began with a run unlike any other – this time around Central Park – after which I packed my bags, showered, and walked down to the LES arriving at Essex at 9:00am sharp.

Having already heard the rumors of surly service, plethoric swearing, and a “the customer isn’t always right” approach I was happy to see that there was no line waiting as I approached the small shop and with Kenny seated on his chair already holding court about the “f*cking janitors” I waited patiently until I was greeted by his son – wearing a vintage Judas Priest shirt – who approached me and pointed to a chair with a gruff “ 'morning.”

Replying in the negative when asking if I knew what I wanted as I took a seat on the hard steel chair I was handed a menu and asked if I wanted coffee I agreed. With the menu extensive to say the least and another two parties arriving to be seated I was told to “give me a wave when you’re ready” and left to decide I sipped my coffee – a decent brew that only costs $2 and comes with surprisingly timely refills – until I’d decided on an order I figured would be manageable and waved, ordered, and was told “good choices – it’ll be about 15 minutes.”

Thus far quite pleased with the service at Shopsin’s my wait would provide the sort of scene on which the legends are built, the sort of stories that keep some people away from Shopsin’s while amusing others to no end – in this case directed at two guys seated directly next to me who had the audacity to not only “dilly-dally and waste my time” while ordering, but also to ask if the restaurant offered espresso – a request answered by “do we look like a G*ddamned Starbucks?” but apparently not quite enough to get them thrown out.

With the show over and my coffee again refilled without a request it was at this point, almost exactly fifteen minutes after ordering, that my first dish would arrive and paired with a sealed bottle of 100% pure maple syrup the Brown Sugar, Banana, and Walnut Bread Pudding French Toast was everything I hoped it would be and then some with thick chunks of custard infused challah intermingled with caramelized bananas and toasted walnuts plus ample notes of cinnamon, brown sugar, and vanilla throughout. More a “pancake” of French Toast than a formed French Toast I will note that at $16 the dish was certainly not cheap, but at the same time the substantial portion and quality ingredients – particularly the syrup – shined.

With the French Toast partially consumed my second item to arrive would be perhaps Shopsin’s most famous and not wanting to upset the balance of power and be accused of over-ordering I opted for a half stack of the Mac n’ Cheese Pancakes, a $9 fusion of pancake batter, cooked macaroni, shredded cheddar, and another bottle of maple syrup plus a big ol’ squeeze bottle of hot sauce. Exactly as odd as it sounds and pan fried first before being finished in the oven I have to say that although unexpected I really loved the juxtapositions of both textures and flavors – sweet and savory, fluffy and dense, doughy and crunchy – then add the sweet syrup and the tangy spice of the hot sauce…its just one of those things you have to try for yourself.
With every last bite consumed my server stopped by and with a clap on the back said “good job” and getting one last refill on my coffee the check was delivered – a pricey $35 cash after tax and tip but for a whole lot of really good food. With the bill collected I was asked if I needed change and telling him no I received a “Thanks man” followed by a “Good job – she thought you were too damned skinny to eat all that” yelled from Kenny pointing at the woman next to him to which I replied “I could’ve eaten twice that” with the reaction being a smiling “get the f*ck outta here.”

Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Roberta's, Brooklyn NY

I generally prefer to write my thoughts on restaurants in the order in which I experience them – it is a stylistic choice mostly, but I also think it also helps to put my trips into context for the people who take their time to read. With that said, sometimes there is an experience that I need to write about immediately in order to capture the feeling of the moment – these occurrences are rare and in the past couple of years there’ve only been a few – my first visit to Alinea, an extended tasting at The French Laundry, and RJ Cooper’s mind-blowing 24-course tasting at Vidalia to be precise. On March 30th I was lucky enough to have another of these experiences, and this time in the least likely of places – a gritty pizza parlor in Brooklyn.

Starting with a bit of back story, I’ll admit I would be lying if I claimed to have discovered Roberta’s on my own – the blog whispers had become a hum even prior to my February visit to the Big Apple and the moment I heard I would be returning to New York in March I made contact about the restaurant-within-a-restaurant experience from Chef Carlo Mirarchi. Pleasant and prompt my first e-mail was handled by Cherie Burnett and the “rules” were explained – 3-4 people, arrive by 5:30, and $140-$160 per person – simple enough, I’d say. With a date agreed upon I’d never hear from Cherie again – from this point forth it would instead be a back and forth string of e-mails between myself, my co-diners, and Chef Mirarchi himself discussing likes, dislikes, and so forth – an impressive display of customer service on par with past experiences with restaurants garnering three stars from Michelin.

With my conference finished at noon and lunch with an old friend at Peter Luger’s in the rearview I will note that for the unfamiliar Roberta’s is not easy to find - all the more testament to the praise it has been getting since it is not exactly the sort of place one stumbles upon. Thankfully with the use of my phone’s GPS and making my way via Subway from the Brooklyn bridge to Bushwick I entered the small restaurant only a minute late for the reservation and thankfully found that my companions had already arrived (though they would later admit they had originally walked right past the small and unassuming space.) Greeted promptly by our server and led to our table, a small four top with benches being replaced by chairs at our request, it would be a matter of moments before we were seated and greeted by Carlo – perhaps the most humble, pleasant, and conversant chef I’ve met to this day.

With Carlo returning to the kitchen (at least for the time being as he would act as his own server for the majority of our 16 courses while also answering myriad questions about his training, sourcing, inspiration, and upcoming changes throughout the evening) the three of us were left to chat and browse the scene – hipster to be sure, but not overly so – and kitschy décor. With a collection of music ranging from Led Zeppelin to The White Stripes coming from the back and the sounds of the growing crowd and pizza makers from the front I’d say the best way to describe Roberta’s was “energetic” and while my co-diners were certainly the oldest in the room (much as I was the youngest the night before at Café Boulud) it was the sort of place where everyone was treated well – a friendly vibe, excellent service, and a conversational tone that was both casual and professional in equal balance.

With wine poured for one and water remaining full for all throughout the nearly 270 minute tasting would begin with “a snack” delivered by Carlo – House Cured Red Wattle Prosciutto with Roberta’s signature crusty house bread. Supple and fatty with a musty and nutty essence the charcuterie itself was a fine example and although good on its own, it was even more impressive as a counterpoint to the crusty and smoky bread – the first bowl served as a sliced bread stick and the second a larger loaf that allowed the delicate crumb more surface area to shine.

Making quick work of the pork our second course would arrive quite quickly and although the least successful of the night, it was still an intriguing exploration of unexpected flavors. Described as Sea Urchin with Bloomsday and Pea Shoots the bite size uni tongue was appropriately briny but unfortunately a bit soft for my tastes. Paired with an aromatic and fruity puddle of melted cheese and a single pea shoot for texture it wasn’t so much that the flavors didn’t work but rather that the ingredients seemed largely independent – none really adding anything to the others…then again, when a dish featuring good quality urchin is the “worst” of the night it speaks volumes of the other 15 courses.

With dish three our table would be treated to the first of many breathtaking courses of the evening – on the surface somewhat surf n’ turf, but far more subtle and complex. Centered by a perfectly seared (IE caramelized outside, raw within) Diver Scallop caught and shucked that very day, the sweet bivalve was balanced with a shaving of headcheese – gamey, unctuous, and fatty. With the duo tasty on its own, the true beauty of the dish was in the details – specifically a slice of red onion and fresh squeezed tangerine juice that lent an acidic and sweet levity to the whole plate and acted to meld the two proteins into a stellar bite.

Course four would be presented by Carlo as his favorite of the night – he even took time to show us a picture of the fish pre-filet on his Iphone. Presented as Sea Perch with Ramps, Yuzu, and Firefly Squid the fish itself was mild and buttery with intensely crispy scales that particularly thrilled my co-diner who’d noted just the night before that he loved crispy skin on his fishes. Paired with beautiful early season ramps, tiny squid with plenty of bounce, and sweet lemon tones the dish was fish done right – the sort of thing you’d expect to emerge from the kitchen of Le Bernardin, or given the crisp skin perhaps Guy Savoy.

After reading my friend’s palate regarding scales with course four, course five was Carlo’s chance to wow mine. Still wobbly and extremely creamy, Poached Duck Egg with Morels, Dill, and Bread Crumbs was all one could desire from an egg dish and given the accoutrements a perfect entry to spring. Served with the whites barely set and creamy yolk pouring forth with minimal pressure from the fork I loved earthy fiber of the morels, the crunch of the bread crumbs, and the faint accent of the dill – again, no special tricks, just an exemplary preparation of quality ingredients.

Taking a quick step back to winter after teasing us with a handful of spring flavors, Oxtail with Lovage and Miner’s Lettuce was a luxurious stew with ample notes of carrot, celery, and parsley not unlike the sort one would expect from the crock pot of their grandmother. Ample and hearty but small in portion the beauty of this dish and its successor were their placing – a reminder that although spring was in the air, we’d still worn our winter coats from Manhattan to Brooklyn that day.

For course seven, another bucolic preparation – this time Trofie pasta with a ragout of Squab Heart and Liver. A sizable portion with thick spindles of flour and water as its base, this was potentially the most “gamey” dish I’ve ever tasted with only a bit of tomato tossed with the pasta to mellow out the offal. Indulging in the toothsome dumplings bite after bite the only way I can think to describe this dish is intense – not in a bad way, but in a way that says you’re not eating some gussied up Michael White dish from a $20,000 pasta machine, you’re eating heart and liver over pasta rolled by hand.

Likely aware of the heft of the previous two dishes, Carlo’s “intermezzo” as he described it was another pasta, this time hand torn Maltagliate graced with citrus and dusting of pecorino – simple, sweet, and an excellent segue to the courses that would follow.

Arriving next to the delight of the lady of the table would be an unmistakable personal favorite of mine as well – Foie Gras. Nicely cleaned and seared just long enough to char the surface, the liver itself was a top quality specimen, but it was the simple accompaniments of cracked black pepper and coarse black garlic that truly allowed it to shine. Generally fancying cold preparations over warm I have to admit that this was perhaps the best Foie Gras I experienced on this trip to New York.

Our tenth course of the evening was an encore to the seventh – the rest of the Squab, feet and all – served with Mascarpone, Gooseberry and Sorrel. Crispy skin, rosy flesh, a thin ribbon of fat – the squab breast was perfect and the legs surprisingly meaty. To be fair I honestly don’t remember the rest of the dish all that well – probably because I was too busy eating the leg by hand, something I’m rather certain I’ve never done during a “tasting menu” before but felt entirely justified (and comfortable) doing at Roberta’s.

Onward to course eleven, none of us showing signs of reaching capacity or palate fatigue, our next plate would feature whole roasted Normandy Duck paired with Kumquat, Turnip, and Swiss Chard. Unfortunately served plated and without legs due to “an issue in the kitchen,” this substantial portion of fowl was quite tasty, though much more mild than I’d have expected – the flavor almost chicken more so than duck. With crackling skin aplenty and well prepared vegetables I cannot say it was on par with some of the better preparations I’ve experienced in Manhattan, but those are some pretty high standards and I’d certainly not hesitate to try Chef Mirarchi’s duck again on future visits.

For the twelfth and thirteenth courses I have to admit I was hesitant – in general I simply do not order beef – it is both a texture thing and a taste thing since it always seems to taste “beefy.” Having mentioned this to Carlo when discussing preferences via E-mail he assured me that this would be different – that this cow (which he knew the arrival date of nearly a month in advance) was worth it. He was right.

Presented first in its raw state at the beginning of the meal, then whole-cooked, and finally plated, the 80-Day Dry Aged Wagyu with Fingerling Potatoes, Sweetbreads, and Ramps was nothing short of a revelation. Ignoring the potatoes, sweetbreads, and ramps – all things I love and all prepared exquisitely – the Wagyu itself was hardly “beefy,” the flavor instead somewhere between butter, mushrooms, and nuts while the texture was literally melt-in-the-mouth – the sort of meat that could be cut as easily with the edge of a fork as with a knife, and a portion so generous that my dining partners took a good 6 ounces home. In a word, it was perfect – the sort of dish I will remember for a long time to come not only because it was delicious, but because it challenged and changed a long held belief.

Accompanying with the steak and not to be forgotten we were additionally served a large plate of fat brushed bone marrow, parmesan, and toasted country bread – another item I’d have not ordered for myself yet another sensational preparation of which I ate the nearly the entire plate.

With my friends now getting full perhaps it was foolhardy to opt for a pizza in place of the cheese course, but I guess I never claimed to be rational when it comes to great food. Served hot, charred and bubbly from the pizza oven up front our Neapolitan style pie would be an off-menu compellation of Ramps, Ricotta, Mozzarella, Lemon, and Pine Nuts – a lovely amalgam of flavors with an elastic spring to the crust and excellent balance. Having taken a trek through what many consider to be Brooklyn’s best Pizza only three days prior I can say that Roberta’s isn’t quite Lucali or Paulie Gee good, but I preferred it to the slice at DiFara and Motorinio.

Finishing half the pie on my own it was at this point that I started to feel *gasp* full – but certainly not too stuffed for dessert. For course 15 our palate cleanser would arrive as Grapefruit Sorbetto with Olive Oil – a clean, bitter/sweet, and smooth scoop that tasted the very essence of the fruit – a significant accomplishment since I generally find most sorbet overly sweet.

With palates cleansed our final flavor of the evening would be a slightly deconstructed version of one of the house desserts - Kumquat Gelato with Cream Soda, Candied Olive, and Blood Orange Cream. Typically served as a parfait but sized down according to Carlo because he thought we were getting full the gelato was again a perfect representation of its namesake fruit while the thin crisp of cream soda candy, candied olives, and sour blood orange cream lent plenty of nuance and textural variation with the overall flavor something like a mature creamsicle.

With an epic meal behind us and a full service coffee bar up front our last taste of the night was coffee; a bold pour over cup of Finca Juanita for me and an Espresso for my friend. Sitting and sipping our coffee while chatting with our server and later with Carlo I was perhaps at my happiest – full of great food and drinking coffee with friends while listening to Led Zeppelin in the presence of a gracious host – a moment, much like the meal, that I won’t soon forget. With the bill settled – a veritable bargain at $160 per person – and Carlo walking us to the door it was a quick trip via Subway back to Manhattan with much chatter about the wonderful experience just passed – an experience I can’t wait to revisit on my next trip to New York and an experience I would suggest anyone who values great food and great people check out for themselves before the “secret” that is Carlo Mirarchi and Roberta’s is out and reservations become unattainable.