NOLA, New Orleans LA

…so it turns out I’m one of the few gourmands who loves Emeril Lagasse…to quote Kurt Vonnegut, “So it goes.” In reality my love of the “BAM” dates back to late 2002 (before I started this blog and before I had the money and inclination to go to places like Alinea or Per Se) when I took my mother to his Orlando restaurant as a Thank You for helping me with my medical school applications. Without overstating I can honestly say that it was my first experience with “fine dining” and it opened my eyes to what food and a dining “experience” could be. Since that visit I’ve been back to the eponymous Orlando restaurant as well as Tchoup Chop, Table 10, Delmonico Las Vegas, and the Fish House and liked or loved the experience at each.

Coming to New Orleans I have to say I was a bit disappointed that I’d not be able to experience Chef Lagasse’s first restaurant because of its location along the Mardi Gras Parade route but was relieved to know that not only would NOLA be open, but that they’d also be glad to prepare anything I desired off the dinner menu at lunch when I queried them via phone after making reservations. Arriving a couple minutes late for my lunch reservation (I got caught up talking Bread Pudding with the lady at the culinary school next door) I was greeted pleasantly by both a male and female at the hostess table and was told it would be “a couple of moments” before my table was ready. Standing aside I took in the unique scenery and action in the kitchen for about 3 minutes before I was escorted via elevator to the second floor where I was given an excellent table in the middle of the room.

Greeted promptly by my server, a young African American fellow who introduced himself and the rest of the team I was offered a cocktail (again I declined) and handed a copy of the menu. Selecting tap water and coffee to go with my meal he next explained the daily specials and when I asked if the dinner menu could be accommodated he said he’d check with the kitchen…and returned in 2 minutes to say that it wouldn’t be a problem at all. Pleasant, conversive, and professional without being snooty I personally loved the service at NOLA and would go so far as to say that my server could easily fit in with the folks at Camellia Grill but also could have brought a bit of personality to the team at Restaurant August equally well – no easy task.

Orders placed I sat and browsed the interesting layout of the restaurant – open ceilings, stone walls, plenty of unique art while also marveling at the overall noise level of the restaurant – energetic and lively without being downright loud or annoying…sort of like Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill or Batali’s Babbo for those who’ve been.

Arriving shortly after my coffee – a bold French blend, the kind that isn’t “memorable” but works with everything due to its low acidity – I received something unexpected…bread that wasn’t just a standard loaf of French. Two small rolls served with a complex and sweet unsalted butter, the first a tasty green onion butter roll and the second a beautiful jalapeno cornbread with just a bit of spice, I have to say I quite liked the variation and found the cornbread to be one of the best I’ve had in quite some time…if I had but one complaint it would be that the rolls were so small and refills were hard to get because everyone was requesting more.

My first dish of the meal was the NOLA Gumbo of the day – chicken andouille, shrimp, and lump crab. Featuring a thick and spicy roux with plenty of shrimp, sausage, okra, and celery I was very impressed by the minimal amount of rice and “filler” but also felt that perhaps a little more file would have been ideal as the dish was soupier than I’d have preferred. Good, but lacking that “stick to your ribs” quality of Mr. B’s.

My second dish, a main course from the dinner menu, was Hickory-Roasted Duck with Whiskey-Caramel Glaze, Buttermilk Cornbread Pudding, Haricot Verts, Fire Roasted Corn Salad, Natural Jus and Candied Pecans. Never one to lack for ingredients on a single plate I can say without a doubt that this was (by far) the best Duck of my trip to New Orleans – and the accompanying items were pretty superb too. Featuring a bone-in half duck perfectly roasted medium and with skin smooth, sweet, and crisp-yet-supple…potentially the best duck I’ve ever had. Lying beneath the fowl was a sweet yet buttermilk-sour cornbread pudding similar to the coush-coush at CP, snappy and sweet Haricot Verts, and a smoky yet sweet roasted corn salad. An enormous portion for $28 this item is clearly better served as a dinner selection, but for the glutton who is trying to make the very most of his or her New Orleans dining experience it makes a sublime lunch, as well.

Following the duck and some more coffee I watched my neighbor eat the chicken and waffles – it looked fantastic. I also made a difficult decision. You see, at each of Emeril’s other restaurants I ordered the bread pudding and was quite impressed by all but one…but the bread pudding du jour at NOLA was chocolate and raspberry with creole cream cheese while one of the alternatives was a dish with French Toast, ice cream, bananas, cinnamon, and bacon…the bread pudding didn’t stand a chance. Arriving piping hot with the ice cream slowly melting and soaking the bread, Cinnamon Pain Perdu with Sautéed Bananas, Drunken Monkey Ice Cream and Brown Sugar Bacon was a showstopper – an absolute must order. Crispy and sweet French Toast, Caramelized Bananas, the Bourbon punch of the banana laden ice cream, and the savory bacon…for some it may have been sugar overload but for me it was the kind of dish I’ll crave every time I think of a Banana for some time.

Quite stuffed and planning to go catch some Jazz at the Lundi Gras Celebration on the river I was asked if I’d like a cup of coffee to go – a nice touch that I gladly agreed to. Paying the modest bill and thanking my servers for a wonderful experience I made my way down to the elevator, through the still present (and seemingly never shrinking) crowd, and to the streets. While some “foodies” shy away from celebrity chefs like Legasse, Puck, Batali, etc claiming that the restaurants are all marketing and the chefs are largely disconnected I personally am of the opinion that great food is great food and great service is great service – if a restaurant can provide me with those two things I don’t mind if the chef spends more time at a TV studio than in the kitchen, he is clearly hiring the right people to carry forth his vision.

The Kupcake Factory, Mr. B's Bistro, Sucre, New Orleans LA

After a decent time at the Aquarium of the Americas and Riverwalk and a great time at the Okeanos parade my fair skin was getting quite red, my throat quite dry, and my belly quite hungry. With most restaurants having already finished breakfast or brunch hours I originally had planned to swing by Johnny’s for a Po-Boy. Making my way from Canal to St. Louis I was met by a line of more than 50 people and opted for plan B – a trip to the bar at Mr. B’s. Heading up St. Louis I stopped short when I saw a small sign in the street indicating a store called Kupcake Factory and advertising a butter pecan cupcake.

Making my way into the small cupcakery I spoke to the friendly clerk and was informed that they were sold out of the butter pecan – as well as three other flavors. Explaining to me that they are actually a chain I asked him for a recommendation and he suggested the Red Velvet - an option I’d have purchased whether he recommended it or not. Deciding to save room for other delicacies I paid the modest $2.25 (a steal compared to LA or NYC) and made my way to the street.

Featuring what was reported to be cream cheese frosting I have to say I didn’t sense much of the tanginess I’ve come to expect from a cream cheese frosting – nor did I catch the cocoa high notes that I expect from a red velvet. Moist and sweet for sure, the taste was pretty much standard hostess chocolate – no better, no worse. Browsing their website I must say some of their other flavors intrigue me and I’d consider checking them out again, but I certainly wouldn’t go out of my way for it.

Heading up to Royal I was surprised to see Mr. B’s was still full of people chatting over their brunch in the dining room shortly after 3pm – asking the host if they were still seating I was told “no, but we serve most of our best stuff at the Bar all day.” Content with this I made my way over to the bar where I was seated next to a friendly fellow from Mississippi who insisted I “must” try the BBQ shrimp – his pick for the best dish in all of New Orleans. Explaining to him that I had every intention of doing so the waiter/bartender must’ve overheard our conversation and chimed in that the shrimp wasn’t his favorite dish, but that it was very good. When I asked him what his favorite was he stated “The Gumbo Ya-Ya.”

With water filled and my choices already made by my neighbor and the bartender (the two item’s I’d had every intention of getting anyhow) I sat back and chatted with my neighbor while watching the basketball game at the bar. Arriving without much delay was a hot loaf of crusty French bread with a great crisp exterior and pillowy soft interior – perfect for eating but moreso for soaking. Shortly following the bread was my cup of Gumbo Ya-Ya – the best gumbo I’d have on my visit to NOLA. Served piping hot and featuring a thick dark roux, light on rice and heavy on spicy andouille and shrimp – plenty of bite without blunting the nuances of the individual ingredients – wonderful.

A short time passed and I reflected on the delicious gumbo before my second dish arrived – a half order of the famous Mr. B’s Barbequed Shrimp. Three enormous shrimp – head and tail on, served with two pieces of grilled country bread and resting in a sauce that may as well have been 1/3 butter, 1/3 pepper, and 1/3 garlic with a bit of Worcestershire and lemon – the first time in a while that I’ve had to work so hard for food (shelling) but thankfully entirely worth the effort. First devouring the tender yet snappy shrimp that were accented but not overwhelmed by the sauce – and then soaking up the sauce with the remaining bread – I’m glad they publish the recipe online because it is definitely something I plan to do at home. To be fair, I can’t think of a better way to spend an hour and $20 than the meal I had at Mr. B’s.

Following Mr. B’s was more shopping, walking, browsing, and people watching – having heard that Bacchus would be the event of carnival I made my way down toward the garden district around 5:00 and wandered the mansions while snapping pictures before heading down to Magazine to find a restroom and another destination on my food radar – Sucre – any place serving King Cake Macarons was certain to catch my attention. Entering the small shop I immediately noted the smell – cinnamon, nutmeg, coffee, chocolate – a good sign to be sure. I next noted the temperature – warm to the point where I had to take off my blazer to avoid sweating.

Browsing the selections while a couple of groups in front of me placed their order I was greeted by one of three friendly youngsters who asked me if I’d like a sample of any of their gelato. Affirming I tasted the southern peach (yum,) praline (okay,) and sour cherry (fantastic) before I placed my order for one “Southern Bread Pudding” and two Macarons plus a glass of water. Explaining to me that the bread pudding would take a few minutes to warm up and dress I took my water and went to a table near the door (where it was cooler) to wait.

A few moments passed before my server arrived with the Bread Pudding – warm and gooey, topped with chocolate, and alongside a scoop of King Cake Gelato as well as the Macarons on two separate long white plates. Beginning with the bread pudding – a small piece for $6 – all I could do was sit back, smile, and be impressed. Rich and buttery brioche, beautifully sweetened custard, and topped with a melted square of sucre chocolate and an ample amount of caramel and fudge – light on the tongue but heavy in flavor and buttery cinnamon texture – a flawless bread pudding. Moving onto the slowly melting Gelato – creamy and smooth, accents of cinnamon and pecan, plus chunks of glittering king cake speckled throughout.

Moving on to the Macarons, they were unfortunately sold out of the chocolate, coffee, and pistachio so I opted for a caramel to go along with the King Cake version. While I found the caramel to be rather plain and moreso a “vanilla” than caramel, the King Cake version tasted precisely like the gelato and my King Cake from Haydel’s. Featuring a crisp shell that gave way to fluffy but somewhat overly dense cookie (compared, say, to La Maison du Chocolate) I do believe that Sucre would benefit from refrigerating their Macarons to avoid any moisture gathering as the day goes on. Good, but not “great” macarons – at least not as good as the Bread Pudding.

Sitting and taking in the scenery my water was refilled without needing request and despite the busyness of the store I was not rushed in any way to give up my seat after finishing. Browsing the selection of cookies, candies, cakes, and confections – many Valentine’s Day themed – and subsequently reading about the owner and pastry chef I have to say that of all the bakeries I visited in New Orleans Sucre was my favorite and the one I’d return to first on subsequent visits. With that stated, however, compared to the bakery scene in New York, Chicago, and San Francisco Sucre has plenty of room to grow…thankfully it appears they have the talent and clientele to support doing so.

Antoine's, New Orleans LA

Despite the warnings about service, prices, and experience my first proper meal in New Orleans was at Antoine’s – the oldest continually running family owned restaurant in the United States. Inventors of the Oysters Rockefeller, featuring more rooms than some restaurants have seats, and old school with waiters clad in tuxedos – if nothing else I was going for the experience and the oysters. Making my way in the front door a few minutes before my 2:00pm reservation the restaurant was largely empty – only three tables filled in the brightly lit front room. Greeted promptly by a waiter who did not even inquire as to whether I had a reservation I was led to a table near the front window – at least until I asked of there were any tables available in back. “Oh, sure, one minute” I was told – a quick exchange between two waiters and I was led towards the back – a huge room, elegantly lit, where more than 2/3 of the tables were filled.

Taking my seat I was handed the menu and a wine list. Deferring on the wine and stating tap water (as opposed to bottled) would be adequate my glass was filled and I sat and waited nearly 8 minutes before anyone appeared at my table to discuss the menu or to take my order. Starring at the stained white tablecloth on my table and the photos from the 1800s lining the walls next to me I felt like I was dining in a museum. When my waiter did arrive, a short elderly man who walked with a limp and introduced himself as Sterling, he asked if I had any questions about the wine list and I again explained I’d not be drinking – he then filled my water and disappeared for another 5-10 minutes. Finally returning I placed my order and then stood up to browse the multiple rooms of Antoine’s – none of which were seated but all of which were set up elegantly and full of pictures and history.

Returning to my chair I heard Sterling tell another server to “put the bread on him” – a phrase I’d hear thrice more on my trip to New Orleans. Shortly after this a large loaf of French Bread was brought to my table by an African American server who insisted on calling me “young man” throughout the meal – as this too would be repeated at multiple restaurants during my visit I rather imagine these phrases are something common to the south. Tasting the bread I was impressed by its crisp crust and delicate airy crumb. While the table butter was quite dull and the table could have used multiple crumbing I easily finished the loaf of bread before meals end and was brought another loaf without even requesting it.

Waiting nearly 20 minutes for my first course to arrive I decided to order coffee to go with my food and the “young man” server brought it and kept it filled without hesitation – I rather wish he’d have been my server, actually, as he was taking care of multiple tables and vastly more efficient than Sterling. A thick and nutty coffee with strong hints of chicory atop a somewhat floral base I found Antoine’s coffee to be quite good and the fact that it wasn’t charged for was also excellent, especially since I drank a good 4-5 cups.

When the food finally did begin to arrive things got better – the Oysters Rockefeller absolutely lived up to the hype with 6 plump and juicy oysters swimming in their own briny liquor and topped with a golden bronzed puree of garlic, anise, spinach, bread crumbs, and what I believe may have been parmesan cheese. Hot and bubbling atop a bed of salt rocks I slowly indulged on each oyster and wiped the shells clean with the bread – while I can’t say I’ve tasted every Oysters Rock out there, this one was certainly the best to date.

Following the Rockefeller – another 6 oysters, this time the Oysters Foch. Starring six succulent oysters flash fried in cornmeal breading and served atop toast smeared with a pate of foie gras the dish was topped off with a rich sauce that tasted almost as if it were a hollandaise spiked with tomatoes and vinegar or sherry. Wonderfully crisp and not as briny as the Rockefeller oysters I was quite impressed at how the salty and smooth oysters served to balance the unctuous liver while the sauce added some spice and acidity to the dish.

Following the Oysters I received my main course – not truly a main, but rather a bowl of shrimp and andouille sausage gumbo and a side of soufflé potatoes. Thick and featuring a dark and spicy roux the overall body of the gumbo was actually quite nice – unfortunately the small bowl contained far too little seafood or andouille and far too much overcooked white rice. While certainly decent and better than any gumbo I’ve tasted up north this was definitely the most disappointing gumbo of my trip. The soufflé potatoes – well, to be fair, I guess I just don’t get the appeal. Crispy on the outside and hollow/airy within they were essentially a less salty form of a house-made potato chip and the fact that my wait staff once again disappeared for long stretch and failed to supply me with the béarnaise sauce that I saw other tables enjoying left me largely underwhelmed.

When it came time for dessert I have to admit I was a bit disappointed when I was told (via E-mail when I made the reservation that they never confirmed when I arrived) that they wouldn’t make the Baked Alaska for one – even if I agreed to pay the full price. My disappointment was only because I’d wanted to taste this famous preparation, not particularly because I was at a lack for better options – specifically bread pudding – my favorite genre of dessert and something I’d be consuming frequently on my trip to NOLA. Arriving only a few minutes after I placed the order the cinnamon raisin bread pudding was paired with a large serving of crushed pecans, a dollop of whipped cream, and an ample dose of thick and buttery rum sauce. Amply soaked, perfectly baked through with a spongy yet toothsome texture this is exactly what I expect when I think of classical bread pudding and the dish did not disappoint at all.

Looking back on my trip I have to say that service gaffs aside I really enjoyed my trip to Antoine’s – it a relic of the past and while they certainly aren’t trying to re-invent the wheel they really don’t have to – they invented it in the 1800s. A fan of modern…and even “hypermodern” cuisine (I’d be eating at Alinea only 4 days after Antoine’s) it is comforting to know that there will always be places that stick to their roots and do what is tried and true – though I must say I expect that their service was once better and their competition less excellent. While I can’t say I’d return to Antoine’s solo, I’d definitely consider going back if I was with other first time visitors to New Orleans – I’d request Sterling not be our waiter, they’d get the experience and I’d get the Baked Alaska and some more Oysters Rockefeller.