VOLT Table 21, Frederick MD

I’ll be honest – I don’t watch Top Chef, Hell’s Kitchen, or any of those cooking shows…though I do enjoy Iron Chef on occasion. With that fact in mind, when I originally started planning my trip to DC I really did not know much of Bryan Voltaggio as a TV star, only that he owned a somewhat well regarded restaurant in Frederick Maryland that had a very well regarded Chef’s table. Further reading about his seasonal menu focusing on local ingredients, the quaint location in a 19th Century Brownstone in Frederick, and his substantial training at the CiA, at Pic, and under Charlie Palmer put Volt on my radar.

Having heard that Volt’s Table 21, a 4-seat experience in the kitchen with 21 small bites was booked solid for a year in advance I tempered my expectations – I called and made reservations in the main dining room and placed myself on the wait list for Table 21…less than 21 hours passed before I was called and told the experience had expanded to two seatings of 8 persons each and it would be no trouble at all to visit on May 21st. Excited, I booked the slot – it would be my last meal on my first trip to DC.

Arriving at the charming small town of Frederick around 7:00 and reservations not until 8:30 I browsed the town. Founded in 1745 everything about Frederick looks historic – it is beautiful, the people are friendly, and like Washington Virginia it seems like a place lost in time. With splotches of urban chic dotting the outside of the building I made my way into VOLT’s packed bar by 8:15 and waited…nearly 35 minutes before we were seated – to kill time I starred out the enormous window, checked out the hypermodern restroom, browsed the artwork speckling the lobby, and watched the televised action from the kitchen on display over the bar – the wait was off putting, but I loved the fact that Voltaggio seemed so comfortable letting people watch his kitchen, his craft, and his skills.

After our brief delay we were led to the now famous table – two flying pigs, 7 chefs and sous chefs, and two “dining room tables” to the left. The first to arrive I was offered first seat choice – the one closest to the kitchen. Greeted by the Frederick native with a sincere apology for being late we were told the menu had just changed, we’d be experiencing things that only the table before us had tasted. With that statement uttered we were asked about food intolerances and allergies, offered a beverage list, and greeted by the rest of the staff. Without going into tons of detail about the service I will note that compared to Vidalia24 or Ko, the chef’s table experience is slightly different at Table 21 – you watch everything being cooked not just for you, but for the main restaurant. Additionally, Voltaggio’s interaction with the crowd is minimal – his focus on the food and kitchen is very pure, though I will note he was quite fun and witty with the dishes he did serve – his ancillary staff was more conversive, though certainly not on the level of RJ at Vidalia but much preferable to the crew at Ko.

Beginning the menu was a cocktail, course one called Sparkling Mint Lemonade, Crown Royal, Strawberry Foam. A nice opening volley the dish was served in a martini glass with the cool Mojito-esque beverage topped with a whipped foam from a canister that tasted of strawberries with the bitter undertone of crown royal – tasty, light, refreshing.

Prosciutto chips, Potato dip came next. Now a signature of the Table21 menu the dish features crispy prosciutto and a dip that tasted like sour cream and mashed potatoes. It was as good as advertised with the savory pork nearly melting in the mouth (not jerky like, as expected) and the creamy dip light and well balanced.

Course three provided the first “wow” moment of the night as we were served Tuna, Cilantro, Avocado, Soy, Yuzu, Wasabi Whitefish Roe. Tender Toro wrapped in a paper-thin sheet of jicama was nicely complimented by a creamy yuzu-soy puree . What set the dish off, however, was the salty whitefish roe that chef Voltaggio said had been packed in wasabi – hot as hell, but briny at the same time, a little went a long way.

The followup dish was good, but also sort of disappointing in that it would be the only tasting of Foie Gras for the evening. Celeriac Macaroon, Vanilla, Foie Gras was a single bite – an airy meringue of celeriac stuffed with creamy liver and topped with shavings of fresh vanilla bean. Smooth and creamy, delicious for sure, but I could have handled a basket of them.

A short time would pass as we chatted with the sous-chefs before the right half of the kitchen would produce the second stunner of the evening - Green Grape Gazpacho, Yogurt, Rock Shrimp. Served chilled the Gazpacho tasted like white grape juice blended with cucumber – cool and refreshing – and adding sweetness was a dollop of red grape sorbet. Finished tableside by adding a steaming hot shrimp and a cube of liquid nitrogen frozen yogurt the dish was one of those “how did they think of that” moments that worked so very well.

1/4 of the way into the meal the sommelier noticed I wasn’t drinking wine with the folks next to me – up till then he’d never even addressed me (though I’d have not been drinking anyhow) and since there are no wine pairings the couples next to me were drinking by the bottle. Addressing his error I declined alcohol and he could “whip me up” something, to which I agreed. During the course of the meal he would present me with two beverages – Sparkling Apple Cider and OJ and Disco Lemonade with Sprite, Rosemary, Lemon, Pineapple, Soda. While both were quite tasty I was a little (only a little) off-put when I was charged $5 each at the end of the meal – it felt a little underhanded given the manner in which it was offered (and the fact that non-alcoholic pairings are included at Vidalia for $120.)

Course six would be another signature, the Chicken Parmesan with Tomato Fennel Dipping Dots and Opal Basil. Featuring a crispy boneless wing, parmesan noodle, frozen tomato dipping dots, olive oil, and parmesan plus salt added at presentation the flavors were spot on for traditional Parm in an untraditional manner – mg a la Moto, and quite tasty.

Seven would mark, in my opinion, the weakest flavor of the night. It’s not that Cherry Glen Farm Goat Cheese Ravioli, Celeriac, Maitake Mushroom, Sage was bad – it is just that it tasted “common,” like standard mushroom soup, a little creamy, a lot earthy…good, but not special.

Next, a return to interesting – and more so because it comprised another dish I truly enjoyed containing Rhubarb. Halibut, Asparagus Risotto, Rhubarb, Ginger reminded me of the risotto without rice at Manresa in that it featured finely chopped asparagus with the texture of risotto of a base. Over top the pseudo-risotto was a quickly seared slice of mild fish, the flavor well paired with the sweet poached rhubarb and characteristically aromatic ginger.

The next dish was wonderful, perfectly prepared and visually stunning. Topped with chopped lavender the Sturgeon, Cauliflower Variations, Verjus, Beluga lentils was the best piece of Sturgeon I’ve had since my visit to Gramercy Tavern – meaty and crisp, hefty and clean. Beneath the fish was crispy white cauliflower and steamed green/yellow cauliflower plus creamy and toothsome lentils. Bringing the whole dish together, an acidic verjus added tableside.

Next course, more fish – the first of a back to back “surf n’ turf” concept…unfortunately it was not very good. Entitled Salmon, Apple Wood Smoked Bacon, Sunchoke the salmon was unfortunately a bit overcooked – crispy on the exterior, but rather dry within. Additionally, as a “balance” to the meaty fish there was creamy bacon infused sunchoke puree, greens, and a seared spring onion that was so potent it almost brought a tear to my eye – really, not balancing at all, but rather overpowering.

A bit taken aback by the onions I tried first to clear my palate with some water with little success. Having seen the breads coming from the kitchen to the other tables I inquired if I might have some bread to dislodge the taste and to my surprise the answer was not only “certainly,” but my request led to the servers initiating bread service at Table 21, something they said they “never” do because people end up getting too full. With the other diners agreeing that they’d like bread we were all served butter – a pleasant locally sourced cow’s milk base, followed by a basket of no less than six options. Amongst my selections during the meal were a Sea Salt Roll, Chive Buttermilk Biscuit, Bacon Thyme Brioche, and Whole Wheat Proscuitto infused Sourdough – all great, all served warm from the oven of the pastry department.

While the salmon was not a hit, the followup surf and turf would prove to be my favorite savory of the night and one of the best dishes I’ve had in 2010 - Sweetbread and Scallop, Meyer Lemon, Caper, Tuna. Served over an Alinea-esque sauce sheet of lemon and tuna the scallop was flawless – nearly raw inside, buttery and caramelized on the surface. Paired with two crispy coated sweetbreads and complimented by caper powder and veal jus the tastes lit up all parts of the palate.

The next dish (and all the savories to follow) was another hit – it was called the favorite by all three diners next to myself when Chef Voltaggio asked at the end of the night. Head Cheese, Pickled Ramps, Crystal Lettuce, Truffle Vinaigrette was a house-made slice of headcheese, melted collagen and characteristic gamey taste aplomb paired with sour ramps, earthy and aromatic vinaigrette, and lettuce for texture – with Voltaggio noting VOLT’s plans to focus on more in house charcuterie in the future I imagine this dish will please many more palates in the coming months.

Pork Belly, Calypso Beans, Moustarda, Sorrel would arrive next and prove to be nearly on par with the Sweetbreads and Scallops. With an agar agar sheet of barbeque sauce atop the pork I personally loved the manner in which the fatty belly paired with the fibrous beans while the Moustarda added an almost “applesauce” flavor to this comfort-food inspired plate.

A light course followed all the heavy meats – an intermission of sorts to prepare us for the two main proteins. Beets, Goat Cheese Mousse, Upland Cress, Banyuls was a fantastic dish featuring a dehydrated beat stick (think Cheeto in texture, sugar beet in flavor,) two types of poached beets, a creamy cheesy mousse, greens, and a savory balsamic. With beet salads being all the rage in fine dining this was one of the better examples I’ve had.

Fifteen - Lamb, Eggplant Caponata, Pepper, Curry – was excellent, just as I’ve come to expect of anything from Elysian Fields. A 2oz slice of lamb, lean and grassy, centered the plate and sat in a small pool of aromatic saffron curry sauce. A dollop of spicy red pepper, a pile of chopped eggplant, and crisp mushrooms completed the simple yet reined flavors of the dish quite well.

Our final savory was a “why not” for me – after the A7 at Vidalia24 and the Chateaubriand at Citronelle I’ve rethought my stance on beef; while a charred porterhouse is never going to do it for me, I’m much more open to a 1-2oz slice of beef at a fine dining establishment (especially on a long tasting menu.) From Voltaggio we received Pineland Farm Beef with Farro Risotto, Spring Ramps, Morel Mushrooms, Carrots, perhaps the most “simple” savory of the weekend this dish would’ve fit just as nicely at Daniel as at Volt. Fatty, mild,and sweet the aged beef was served rare – by itself it was great. Joining the steak in our “main course” was an earthy risotto that tasted almost like savory quinoa, a carrot, and morel/ramps rendered in a pan with the pan drippings of the beef.

With others wowed by the beef and myself quite pleased overall we moved on towards cheese and dessert – coffee orders were placed and a press pot of fantastic locally roasted Highland Grog would arrive shortly after the cheese course, Point Reyes Blue Cheese, Almond, Apple, Balsamic. A small and unique preparation the pungent cheese was well met by the dehydrated apple slices and almond powder while the balsamic added just enough acidity to make the single bite memorable.

Dulce De Leche, Caramel, Granny Smith Apple would serve as our first dessert – to say the pastry kitchen at Volt is good would be an understatement. Featuring a creamy caramel cheesecake bite, apple sorbet, dehydrated dulce de leche, and a crunchy toffee bark the flavors were largely caramel apple but the variation in textures, temperatures, and flavors were much more complex.

The second dessert, course 19, would be Pistachio, Strawberries, Ginger, Basil – it would be the most memorable course of the meal (savory or sweet.) Featuring strawberry glass noodles and balls of strawberry as the base the addition of liquid nitrogen frozen ginger ice cream, pistachio powder, and small leaves of basil created a vegetal rollercoaster of an experience – the presentation something out of a molecular gastronomy text and the flavors befitting a modernized Italian fruit course.

Dish twenty was expected as it has, in one form or another, been a staple of Table 21 from the start. Though not as intricate as the version at Vidalia24 the Textures of Chocolate, Caramel, Chocolate Ice Cream was tasty – dark ganache, milk ice cream, 80% chip – each high quality and an ample match for the hefty coffee.

Completing the menu would be a course of mignardises – served per person as opposed to centered like Vidalia our selections were an Almond Macaron with Coffee Cream, White Peach and Vanilla pate a fruit, White Chocolate with orange cream, and a Raspberry Vacherin. With each a good example of their respective genre, I particularly loved the Vacherin – a melt in the mouth custard that exuded the very essence of raspberry and the pate a fruit which tasted like peaches and cream concentrated into a single potent bite.

Delivered with the bill would be a present to take home, a 22nd course, if you will – a Lemon Poppyseed Muffin. Good, but not particularly memorable I shared it with the family on the way home from Frederick.

When it was all said and done I left Volt’s Table 21 and definitely understood the considerable hype the experience has received – the food, save for one boring course and one overpowered by onion, was superb and the constant evolution of the menu is admirable to say the very least. While some people may be impressed by the celebrity of it all, Chef Bryan doesn’t really seem to buy into it – his attention to the kitchen remained nearly undivided at all time. For me, the highlight of the experience outside of the food was actually watching the manner in which the kitchen flowed – between the tasting menu, the a la carte, Table 21, and the Chef’s tables there were literally four services going on simultaneously and everything went off without a hitch. In the end I still have to say I preferred other meals on my trip to DC but I would most definitely recommend the trip to Frederick should anyone manage to secure a seat at Table 21 – the rest of the food coming out of the kitchen looked pretty darn good, too.

Faidley's, Berger's, Caroline's Cupcakes, Dangerously Delicious Pies, Baltimore MD

We’d wandered the aquarium for four hours, the Visionary Art Museum for two, and also been to the Poe Grave – the next stop on our 12 hour visit to Baltimore would be the “World Famous” Lexington Market – one of the oldest community markets in the United States and more importantly the home to two of Baltimore’s most well known establishments – Faidley’s Crab Cakes and Berger’s Cookies. Without getting into too much detail I will note that the market itself and the area surrounding it are not savory at all…as a matter of fact I've never seen so many unsavory, shifty, and downright frightening persons...traveling with three women I felt uneasy throughout our visit that someone's purse was soon to go missing.

Making our way through the various ethnic eateries of the market (largely heat lamps and buffets of unappetizing foods) and browsing the unique selections such as Scrapple we found Faidley’s with minimal difficulty – there are quite a few signs. Arriving at 3:30pm we’d missed the lunch line and made our way straight to the front of the line where we met the owner, Nancy, a pleasant and helpful lady who recommended the Lump cake stating “if you’re going to try one, make it the best of ‘em.” At $13 the bar was set high.

Walking to one of the standing bar/tables in the middle of the area we chatted for a few moments before the Crabcake was delivered – a thick baseball of a cake loaded with buttery and succulent crab, bound with a creamy breading somewhat akin to cornbread and speckled with pepper and Old Bay. Diving the cake into fourths we were each afforded 3-4 bites and while different, I can say it rivals my previous favorite cake from San Francisco Ferry Place Seafood for best all time.

Making our way further into the market our next (and last) stop at the Market was Berger’s, a nearly 175 year old family owned bakery known predominantly for their German Vanilla Wafer cookie topped with thick fudge. As opposed to trans-fat as I am, I figured I should give the cookie a taste given its longevity and fame – for $1.25 we received two of them. Tasting largely like a soft sugar cookie topped with a rich ganache of pure fudge there was certainly nothing wrong with the cookie – it was good, as good as a Black and White cookie minus the white can be, I guess – but for the gram of trans fat and 140 calories I’d sooner have eaten something else. Inquiring about their Red Velvet cake I was told it did not use Cream cheese frosting, but rather “sugar frosting,” and as such I passed and we left the market for more quick bites around Baltimore.

Having done some of the Baltimore browsing my Aunt suggested something sweet – Baltimore Cupcake Company. Setting the GPS we made our way to the storefront only to find them closed…fortuitously a new shop called Caroline’s Cupcakes had opened only two doors down two weeks prior – making our way in the door we were greeted by a pleasant young woman who described the premise of the company to us – quality ingredients, small batches, and unique creations atop of a core “collection” – a concept similar to most cupcake shops but with average sized cakes for a good price – we selected four and made our way to the car.

Titled Vanilla Wonder and Pink Wonder, two of the cakes were quite similar – a buttery and thick Vanilla “wondercake” (essentially a buttercake or vanilla accented poundcake in texture) topped with frosting – rich vanilla bean in the case of the vanilla and a sugar-sweet and somewhat citrus/berry accented version atop the Pink. While my family quite liked both options and I loved the cake I felt the frosting was a tad overwhelming (and ample.) For my taste, the other options were vastly superior, first the PB&Joy featuring a fabulous salty and textural peanut butter cake and rich chocolate frosting with a chunk of peanut butter cup I would not be surprised at all of the cake contained more peanut butter than flour. The second option, the standard by which I judge a cupcakery, was a moist and deliciously cocoa accented Red Velvet with the smoothest and most subtle Red Velvet I’ve had since Sweet Revenge in NYC. Definitely a formidable selection given the young age of the store I hope Caroline does well as she tweaks and refines recipes.

Pulling away from Caroline’s the last stop on our afternoon food-trek through Baltimore was Dangerously Delicious Pies – despite their new location in the DC area and mixed reviews my Aunt had heard about them on Food Network and I have to admit I liked their approach – all natural, hand made, sweet and savory both, and a set price of $6 a slice, regardless of type…they even offer vegan friendly options. Reading their humorous website, titles, and descriptions only fueled my desire to check the place out - finding meter parking only 20 yards from the store didn’t hurt, either. Making our way into the store to the sounds of Pisces Iscariot era Smashing Pumpkins we were greeted by a friendly single server who was baking, cutting, and serving pies while also acting as cashier. Browsing the options we decided on two sweet pies, a coffee for myself (Stumptown blend) and a large milk.

Making our way to the back of the shop to eat, our two options were an old classic – Apple, and their signature Baltimore Bomb with Berger Cookies melted down and swirled into a Vanilla Chess pie. Beginning first with the apple – buttery crust, still-warm Granny Smith apples, Cinnamon, Sugar, and more butter…everything an American Apple Pie should be, without the cheese. While I’ve heard some state high prices, I’ll note this was a pretty hefty slice of pie and the ingredients were far above your average diner. Moving on to the Bomb – what decadence – an almost buttermilk flavor combining effortlessly with the cookies to form a thick and creamy cookies and milk experience. Almost egg-custard in texture, but with chunks of the cookie forming a nice contrast with the smooth pie, I have to say I “get” why this is a best seller.

Heading home from Baltimore I was definitely glad we made the trip…while the Lexington Market was a bit of a disappointment and the Berger cookies somewhat overrated on their own, Miss Shirley’s, Faidley’s, Caroline’s, and Dangerously Delicious Cupcakes made for a great foodie visit while the Aquarium, Visionary Museum, and Poe Grave were all worth the time and effort.

Miss Shirley's Cafe, Baltimore MD

Baltimore is a city I did not know much about – sure, Hopkins is there, as is one of the best Aquariums in the world, and Camden – but it was never high on my list of places to visit. Deciding that we needed to add this Aquarium to the ever growing list it was up to me to find a suitable breakfast or lunch – asking around the options seemed bleak but a trusted source who knew my love of Bongo Room and Griddle Café suggested I’d “probably like” Miss Shirley’s…as a bonus is was less than half a mile from our destination, as well. While I will fully admit I have a soft spot for breakfasts that could double as dessert, there are some only a few places where the menu is just so smile-inducing that gluttony seems required – Miss Shirley’s was one of those places.

With a stiff wind and nearly horizontally moving rain inducing a run from the parking garage to the front door we arrived around 8:30am to find Miss Shirley’s approximately half full – greeted by a smiling manager at the door we were quickly led to a large booth, water was filled, and we were offered beverages. Opting for two coffees and two teas I can’t say there was anything terribly memorable about either – what was memorable was our server, a young man named Tim who kept our cups filled and bested the service of many waiters in the fine dining world throughout our meal – even if he didn’t warn us about just how indulgent our order would turn out to be.

Deciding on a couple of appetizers and a “main course” each we realized immediately on arrival of the appetizers that we’d over-ordered. Arriving first, in spectacular fashion, was Funky Monkey Bread – Cinnamon Pull-Apart with Bananas, Chocolate and Pecans, Powdered Sugar. Enormous, literally the size of a full-size Bundt cake pan, the buttery and yeasty dough was pure cinnamon roll. Topping the ring of flaky dough with sliced bananas, chopped pecans, and chocolate chips the center of the ring was filled with a chocolate and pecan dunking sauce – the entire dish excessive in every way.

The second appetizer – arriving along with the Monkey Bread – was a Mini Bundt cake Sampler with Red Velvet and Cream Cheese, Chocolate with Vanilla cream, and Lemon Blueberry with Lemon drizzle. To call these “mini” was accurate – assuming the reference point was the Monkey Bread, however each cake was twice the size of an average cupcake. With all three cakes providing different texture and taste we were assured all were baked from scratch using the owner’s original dessert recipe (appetizer indeed!) and each was quite tasty, warm from the oven. Cocoa nuanced and with a mildly sour cream cheese I liked the Red Velvet best while others fancied the Blueberry Muffin textured version paired with hints of lemon and what I believe was mint. The chocolate option was heavy and dark, akin to a Hostess Cupcake with better quality cocoa.

Still working on the appetizers after 15 minutes our mains began to arrive – not since Bongo Room would there be quite this many sweets on the table at once – Tim joked that we had our work cut out for us – I agreed.

Beginning with my option, listed at MP on the menu, the $18.99 Crab Cristo with Jumbo Lump Crab Meat, Smoked Ham and Swiss Sandwiched between French Toast, Deep Fried until Crispy, Drizzled with Honey Mustard and Citrus Aioli, Dusted with Powdered Sugar and Old Bay. It is hard to gauge size from a picture, but suffice it to say that I have large hands and each half of the sandwich was thicker, longer, and wider than one of my hands. With vanilla loaded French Toast on each side, the bread was layered with a slice of cheese, then a slice of smoky ham, and finally stuffed full with fresh picked blue crab meat before being dipped in the deep fryer to form a golden and crunchy crust. Topping the dish with a combination of sweet sugar and savory Old Bay (I opted against the Honey Mustard) plus lemon and chive aioli there was a whole lot going on, but somehow it worked – it was fantastic and drew a humorous degree of curiosity from neighboring tables given its size…and more curiosity as to how “someone so skinny could eat so much.”

For my mother, a fan of coconut but already full from Eve the previous night, the plate du jour was Joyous Almond Cakes with Coconut, Chocolate Chip, Toasted Almond. As expected from the name the dish itself tasted like a warm cake made with melted Almond Joy candy bar. Excellent on its own I was surprised when Tim brought the syrup – pure maple from Vermont – and although my mother didn’t feel it was necessary the bites I tasted were very nicely complimented by the spicy and thick maple flavor. Despite not eating much of the appetizers (too full) mom managed only two of her three pancakes…my sister and I managed the rest.

My aunt’s options were decent, but not fantastic – in general she has an uncanny ability to order poorly at breakfast, mostly because she hates maple syrup and egg dishes and therefore attempts to fruit based options – even when those fruits are neither regional nor in season. Opting for two short-stacks of 2 pancakes her choices were Raspberry White Chocolate Pancakes and Upside Down Pineapple Cakes – Brown Sugar Caramelized Pineapple and Cinnamon. With fluffy buttermilk pancakes forming the base, these options were simply pancake + topping, and while both toppings were nicely done, both were rather tame and would have benefitted from more in-season fruit toppings. 1/2 of her Raspberry pancakes was the only thing that went back to the kitchen uneaten.

For my sister – the girl definitely knows how to order at breakfast – the choice was Coconut Cream Stuffed French Toast with Cream Cheese, Mascarpone, Flaked Coconut, Bruleed Banana, Powdered Sugar and Cinnamon. As large as my sandwich and equally golden brown the dish featured a whole banana, two enormous slices of bread, copious flaked coconut, and easily 3-4oz of the smooth and sweet cheese blend. Swimming in a sauce of Strawberry the flavor of this French Toast was fantastic – and aside from a couple bites shared with the family she managed it almost entirely on her own…a true maple syrup junky (see also our meal at Norma’s in NYC) she even topped this dish with it and actually, it made it even better.

Settling the tab and leaving an ample tip for Tim’s stellar service I asked him if they had a dessert menu – both he and the neighboring table cracked up. Filling out the comment card and dropping it out front I strongly suggested they consider building outside the Baltimore area – perhaps in Columbus Ohio – I hear there is an enormous college campus there and an extremely sub-par breakfast/brunch scene. Then again, perhaps it is better they stay in Baltimore – I quite like my wardrobe and don’t really want to have to buy pants with a bigger waistline.