Burger Bar, Las Vegas Nevada

Perhaps it was Boulud, perhaps Keller.....at some point someone decided that a 99cent cheeseburger at McDonalds simply wasn't enough. Foie Gras, Truffles, Shrimp, Lobster.....you name it, you got it. While I do find it odd that I found myself being led into Burger Bar by my friend when I don't particularly like beef and don't eat burgers, I will admit to have had a few in the past and my all-time was the Thurman Burger in Columbus Ohio, a famous one in its own right. In a day that included Tableau for breakfast and Alex for dinner I must say I didn't expect much from the Burger Bar....but I was pleasantly surprised.

While the Bar was located in a shopping mall at Mandalay Bay I didn't judge....most of Vegas feels like a mall anyhow and Per Se in NYC is located in a mall, as well. Arriving around 2:30pm there was a line...a good sign I guess....our names were taken and 10 minutes later we found ourselves seated at a 4-top in the middle of the restaurant. While the place was quite loud, conversation was quite easy and our menus were delivered quickly. With 5-6 bread options, 5-6 meat options, 40-50 topping options, plus desserts it actually took longer to order than we had imagined. Eventually I settled on the Turkey Burger on Ciabatta with grilled Shrimp, Pesto, and a side order of Sweet Potato fries while my buddy opted for the Kobe Beef Burger with Sharp Cheddar and Hickory Bacon on Whole Wheat with Spicy Skinny Fries and a sampler of beers.

As the place was busy we chatted for a bit and I decided to get up and explore. Much to my surprise the kitchen was wide open for viewing and I wandered about to realize how fresh all the ingredients were, the bread being baked in visible ovens, and the meats stored in large lockers. Everything appeared very hygienic and clean, very much unlike your average burger shack. By the time I arrived back at the table my buddy was working on his beer and approximately two minutes later the food arrived. While I spent a moment dressing my burger and eating my incredibly garlicky pickle spear, I heard my buddy partially-moan....clearly he was loving this burger.

Once my burger was adequately dressed and I had a large pile of ketchup for my fries it was time to dig in. Crisp ciabatta with a fluffy interior first greeted my tongue followed by the wonderful basil blast of the pesto mingling with plump and tender shrimp and well cooked yet juicy turkey. Great texture, quality ingredients, wonderful flavor, well cooked....what more can you ask for in a burger? I next dug into the fries which were simply fantastic and #3 only to Michael Mina's Duck Fat Fries and Michael Symon's Lola Fries in terms of crispy outside and soft/salty inside. I do find it rather unfortunate that the restaurant did not order an organic/original ketchup given the quality of the ingredients otherwise, but I guess a minimal amount of HFCS won't kill me.

Having finished off our burgers and laughing more at the PTI analysis of the USC/Oregon State result my buddy and I opted for a dessert burger - the chocolate version featuring a split donut topped with a chocolate gnache puck, mango "cheese", and strawberries. Humorous in presentation and tasty in flavor, this choice was excellent and split down the middle this "burger" was just enough after the huge burger/fries. The mango cheese was especially surprising in its fresh taste and jello-like texture while the chocolate puck was so rich I doubt I'd have finished one myself. The donut was a tad dry, IMO, but didn't hurt the burger overall.

All told I liked the energy and the food at Burger Bar. While certainly our most "low class" meal, I actually enjoyed the experience and the pricetag more than Sensi and Craftsteak and my buddy loved it which was excellent since he humored me in going to so many French restaurants on the weekend. IMO, foie and truffles are best served by a chef like Stratta or Savoy and not on a piece of beef and buried under toppings...the concept of the Rossini Burger is ludicrous and anyone ordering it is showing off and missing out on the opportunity for more originality and customization at a lower price. Regardless, to each his/her own and I think the concept of designer burgers has a lot to offer...even if the underdressed and uncustomizable option at Father's Office is still the standard by which most burgers are judged.

Tableau, Las Vegas Nevada

Chatting on his Vertu in a strange language (something arabic I believe) I couldn’t help but notice my neighbor’s Constantin Patrimony series watch flashing in the sunlight of Tableau’s patio…clearly there was money around. When the waiter arrived to refill his water and asked if he could get the check the man pulled out a money clip, peeled off two $100 bills and said “that should cover it” before getting up and walking away…the man had ordered a fruit plate. Tucked away in the gardens and pools of the Wynn Tableau is both rich and beautiful in appearance, much like its patrons. Sure I didn’t expect low quality from Steve Wynn, but to say the clientele of Tableau was “well to do” would be a vast understatement.

Arriving at 7:45am I was greeted by the gorgeous lobby and the gracious hostess who asked whether I would prefer dining indoors or on the patio. As the patio was amply shaded and most of the patrons were outside I chose the patio and was subsequently offered a copy of the Wallstreet Journal, New York Times, or USA Today to browse. Seeing the headlines regarding the USC upset, I opted for the USA Today (clearly indicating my status compared to the rest of the diners who sat browsing the Times or Journal) and chose a wonderful table half sunny/half shaded with a great view of the pool and gardens. Water was filled and the menu was delivered while the waiter went to get my coffee.

Browsing the menu I was instantly captured by the pastry basket and the Peach pancakes, but not being hungry enough for both decided to ask the waiter what was available in the basket. Approximately 10 items were rattled off including an apricot tart, apple scone, and nectarine turnover. When I asked if pastries could be ordered individually it was explained that these were ‘petite’ pastries and if I wanted to try only one it would be free of charge. “A nectarine turnover and the peach pancakes, please.” “Certainly, sir.”

While I waited for my food I stood up and roamed the pools and gardens. Approximately 20 people were present at the time, all dressed either business casual or semi-formal and all dining on items ranging from the freshest appearing fruits to pastries to eggs and sausage that looked incredible. When I returned to my table (my tableau?) my coffee was waiting along with cream and sugar/spelda/equal. No nutrasweet was to be seen and when asked I was informed “Mr Wynn does not fancy nutrasweet.” Fair enough (for what it is worth, Alex also didn’t have Nutrasweet but noted they could obtain it immediately if I desired.)

After approximately 10 minutes a fantastic yet dainty nectarine turnover arrived fresh from the oven. Crispy, flaky, loaded with fresh nectarines it was the perfect opener to the meal and I’d have certainly enjoyed many more had I ordered the basket. Another 10 minutes and a laugh at the Trojans passed, my coffee was refilled once, and then my pancakes emerged from the kitchen.

Described in the menu as Ricotta Peach Pancakes with lime butter and organic maple syrup, nothing could’ve prepared me for these pancakes. Fluffy and light, airy yet moist, sweet yet savory and absolutely jammed with fresh skinned peaches, the dish was presented with a simple dusting of powdered sugar, a side-pitcher of warm syrup, and a dollop on the side that tasted like a fresh key lime dissolved in butter. Having tried Ricotta Pancakes only once before but any number of stellar pancakes in the past, this dish was a revolution and I truly sat and savored each bite. Sure, $14 for three pancakes is not a bargain, but $14 for breakfast bliss? That is a bargain.

When I finished my pancakes and resisted the urge to lick my plate clean my waiter arrived and asked if he could get me anything else. “Perhaps a coffee to go?” “….don’t twist my arm….how about another turnover too?” “Certainly, sir.” While I didn’t tip $185 like my neighbor, I certainly wish I could have.

On my way out everyone was very friendly, from the other waiters to the hostess, making each guest feel like their visit was truly valued. I was even invited to return for dinner, but when I told the hostess we had reservations for Alex that evening she noted “oh, excellent choice, perhaps some other time.” All told the meal was fantastic and on par with Bouchon in terms of quality, presentation, and service. Go early, sit on the patio, eat, smile, and enjoy the richness of the food and the clientele…even if you yourself aren’t rich…sometimes it’s fun to see how the upper crust lives.

MiX Restaurant and Lounge, Las Vegas Nevada

MiX is a difficult review…on one hand you have fantastic service, incredible food, a view like no other, and a dining room that is simply jaw dropping in every way. On the other hand you have a lot of noise, servers who are overburdened, and a crowd that could care less about the food because simply being “seen” at MiX is apparently cool. Well ladies and gents, I don’t pretend to be cool, but I do pretend to know a thing about beauty, skill, and service…and MiX has all three.
Checking in with the hostess downstairs and creeping up the external glass elevator 64 stories above Vegas is a wonderful trip, yet as inspiring as it may be nothing can prepare you for the scene entering the bar….darkness and firey reds out front with a glimpse of white in the back. Arriving early we traversed the bar and entered the white…or should I say the light? It is hard to say anything about the dining room that hasn’t already been said. From the beautiful and sparkling multi-million dollar kitchen to the brilliant chandelier to the view that simple begs to be oogled, the setting is stunning in all ways. Seated at a table of two with my back toward the ceiling high windows I almost felt envious of my friend until I realized I had a clear view of the hanging baubles and the glorious kitchen.

After a short wait our server showed up and provided us with menus and the best darn bread basked I’ve seen in some time; Raisin Almond Roll, White Forcaccia, Tomato Basil Spiral, Rye, Jalapeno and pumpkin seed plus both unsalted butter and a salted butter with chopped peanuts that tasted like the most decadent peanut butter imaginable. Sampling each bread at some point during the evening and requesting extras of the Tomato Basil and Raisin Almond, all flavors were wonderful and complimented different aspects of the meal quite well.

To my surprise, my friend glimpsed the MiX Grand Tasting with Wine Pairings and suggested he was interested. As my pal is not the world’s most adventurous eater this was fantastic news to me as I’d been eyeing the tasting with a few modifications myself – specifically, creating a menu of all-Ducasse classics as opposed to the “MiX” of Ducasse items and plates specific to MiX on the tasting. The waiter assured me this would be no problem and didn’t even mind if my friend and I ordered different mains and desserts. Top notch! Not being a wine drinkier myself I will simply note here that my friend stated ALL of the wines were excellently paired and I was extremely impressed by the knowledge of not only the Sommelier, but the waiter himself who discussed Rieslings and Ice Wines with my friend with a great degree of expertise. All told my friend received 6 solid pours for $75 and was very pleased.

For myself, the focus was the food and the evening unfolded as follows:

“Amuse Bouche” - eggplant Caviar w/tuna picatta, crispy chip – A small blend of tender eggplant and spicy tuna plus a crispy triangle for dipping, this was a wonderful taste to begin the evening. Barely spicy with hints of tomato and basil, the texture was like a creamy tuna salad without the mayo.

Dish 1: KAMPACHI SASHIMI, GREEN CURRY EMULSION, SEAWEED SALAD – Perfect Kampachi with a fairly mild flavor, yet delectably enhanced by the green curry this dish was quite attractive and a good followup to the tuna. As good as the fish was, however, the seaweed salad was incredible and my only complaint could possibly be that there wasn’t ten times as much. Then again, had I known how much food was to come I’d have known better.

Dish 2: TENDER POTATO GNOCCHI, FRESH MORELS & ASPARAGUS WITH VEAL JUICE AND FLAKED PARMESAGNA – Knowing my feelings about Gnocchi, this dish was a part of the reason I’d selected MiX in the first place. Unlike Thomas Keller’s buttery Parisian version, Ducasse opts here to utilize the Italian formula of simple and tender potato dumplings with just a little salt and complements from the dense and woody flavor of perfectly tender Morels and flawlessly crisp asparagus. The veal juice and parmesagna added a salty and savory component to the dish. While not the best gnocchi ever, the texture and flavor were sublime and I’d certainly re-order on return visits.

Dish 3: MACADAMIA/PISTACHIO CRUSTED HALIBUT, ASPARAGUS CREAM, PARMESAN FOAM – The show stealer for my friend and a solid frontrunner for best-fish-dish-ever for myself, it is hard to describe the delicate nuisances of this dish without experiencing it. Perfectly poached fish with a crunchy yet sweet and nutty coating bisected a plate with asparagus and creamy asparagus cream on one side and a cheesy foam on the other side. While each flavor was superb separately, the combination was even more stunning with the cream and foam drizzled over the fish. A second dish featuring asparagus and parmesan, it is easy to see why Ducasse serves these two dishes back to back frequently and I cannot recommend the combination enough. In a weekend that featured tasting menu fish preparations by Le Cirque and Alex as well, this may have been the best fish dish of all, and that is saying something.

Dish 4: ROASTED MAINE LOBSTER “AU CURRY”, COCONUT BASMATI RICE, PINEAPPLE, RAISIN, AND PEARL ONIONS – Quite frankly I’ve no idea what Ducasse was thinking when he prepared this dish the first time, but the thought it was certainly inspired by a muse or a God. To be fair, the curry was understated so anyone ordering this for heat will be disappointed…..I didn’t order for heat. What I ordered it for was a fantastically prepared lobster served over sweet sticky rice and complimented by roasted onions and sweet fruits. While not quite as mind-blowing as the Lobster at Alex (which may be my favorite dish of all time,) this is the second best Lobster preparation I’ve ever experienced and it will haunt my dreams until I find a means to prepare it myself.

Dish 5: ROASTED DUCK BREAST, BLACK MISSION FIG, RADISH & BABY TURNIPS, FIG SAUCE – My first substitution and absolutely worth the choice. A well cooked yet juicy duck breast, skin on and perforated for complete cooking, the meat was not gamey at all and the earthy/meaty texture was wonderfully offset by the figs and fig sauce, yet given a crispy textural component by the radish and turnips. While the “worst” of the dishes in my opinion, the competition was pretty stiff and that is no disrespect at all. My friend opted against substitution and instead received the MiX house special of COLORADO RACK OF LAMB, ARTICHOKE & CITRUS CONFIT which he stated was the best Lamb he’d ever experienced.

Palate Cleanser: PASSIONFRUIT AND MANGO SORBET WITH COCONUT LIME FOAM – Served in a Martini glass, I believe the phrase palate cleanser was invented for this dish. I don’t even like Mango and this item impressed me. My buddy did note that in addition to the 6 glasses of wine he felt like this was a bit too much fluid, but did note that the flavor and texture were excellent.

Dessert: BABA AU RHUM, MONTE CARLO STYLE WITH SPICED RUM AND CRÈME ANGLAIS for myself and the CHOCOLATE AND MINT “AFTER EIGHT” FINGER for my friend – While I’m not a drinker, I am a fan of rum cake and rank Mastro’s Buttercake amongst my all time favorite desserts. As this dish represents one of Ducasse’s most famous dishes I couldn’t pass it up. A small cake was served along with a pot of rum and a second pot of crème which was then reconstructed by the waiter tableside, first pouring a little rum and then a dollop of cream with further customization allowed for the customer. While not QUITE as good as Mastros, the dish was a beautiful compliment to the meal and left a warm feeling in my belly for the rest of the night. My buddy’s After Eight Finger, which I was allowed a taste of, was quite small yet given the potency more than adequate. Think of an After-eight or Andes mint….multiply the intensity and quality times twenty…..you’re almost there.

Madelines : To cap off the meal we were served four of Ducasse’s signature Madelines straight from the piping hot pan along with a pot of warm Nutella. While I realize the tradition of the Madeline has been carried on by both Stratta and Boulud, it is my understanding that Ducasse was first and though I’ve not tried Daniel’s, Ducasse’s option blew Alex’s out of the water. Moist, creamy, delicate, and perfect with the Nutella…despite my fullness I’d have eaten twenty.

Service was awesome throughout though I definitely felt our server was rushed given the 6 tables he was to cover with minimal help…another server or a couple of attendants would have been all the better. Timing between courses was approximately 20 minutes with the whole meal taking nearly 2.5 hours and feeling perfectly paced. If I were to offer one complaint it would be the overall decibel level of the restaurant, which despite its large size was substantial distant from the bar and kitchen and downright LOUD near the bar. My second complaint would be the fact that the balcony at the bar was limited to bottle service only, despite our spending $450 for two on the meal. Sure, we didn’t have to pay the $25 club cover, but it would have been nice to relax on the balcony afterwards as well. Thankfully the bouncer was cool and let me step out for some pictures. On the way out the bar was jammed packed and the music bumping with many people on the dance floor. On descending the elevator there was a notable line of 50+ waiting to gain access, to boot.

All told, the food at MiX is nothing but the best…5 stars in all ways. Unfortunately, instead of being a 5-star dining establishment with 5-star service, MiX settles for excelling at the food and shooting to be trendy which creates the paradoxical “heaven and hell” feeling Ducasse stated he was aiming for with the restaurant/bar concept. As cool as that may be, I feel the two would be better separated. While many say “go for the view and skip the food,” I whole heartedly disagree and would put many of the dishes at MiX up against Alex, Le Cirque, Eleven Madison Park, Spago, and others coast to coast…but the service and scene leave something to be desired for the true foodie. All in all a great experience that I’d strongly recommend, just not quite as strongly as I’d recommend a few other Michelin Starred restaurants.

I will note, however, that if Michelin decides to start starring bathrooms, MiX deserves four...check the view from.

Bouchon Bistro, Las Vegas Nevada

Thomas Keller needs no introduction…he is without a doubt the reigning sovereign of American “haute-cuisine.” With attention to detail that is unmatched and an approach to cooking (both as an art and as a business) that is beautiful and elegant, expectations are and will always be high entering one of his establishments. Having consumed ~$100 between two at Bouchon Bakery in NYC back in June, my expectations entering Bouchon Bistro on the 10th floor of the Venetian were high….at least 10 stories high.

Due to their rustic simplicity and historic preparation by poor persons utilizing limited ingredients, I personally believe gnocchi/dumplings (along with Bread Pudding) to be the ultimate foods by which to judge a chef and knowing that my time in Vegas would be limited, I e-mailed ahead approximately 2 weeks early and asked if it would be possible for the chef to prepare the Gnocchi a la Parisienne during the weekday breakfast hours. While an odd request for sure, my e-mail was almost immediately answered by General Manager Andy St. John who stated the chef would be delighted to prepare the meal during the day at no additional costs, no questions asked. Gnocchi for breakfast? Well, kinda…

Arriving at Bouchon around 7:30 I checked in with the host who introduced me to dining manager Robert who took me to my seat, indoors looking out at the pool given the bright sun and my fare skin. Water was delivered and I was given a few moments to browse the restaurant before my server returned. The simple bistro layout, the open doors to the pool and garden, the fresh smell of the baking breads….lovely. When Robert returned specials were discussed, despite already knowing my strange request, and I settled on a starter of the Chocolate Almond Croissant and a cup (make that about 6 cups) of coffee. See, the croissant was Breakfast…the Gnocchi just followed closely.

The croissant, like all of Keller’s pastries, was magical…the best croissant I’ve ever had in terms of flavor. Crispy and warm on the outside with chocolate drizzle and copious almonds, plus a flaky interior and a thick layer of chocolate gnache folded into the flaky dough and then loaded with chopped almonds. If I lived close to a Bouchon this would be a very frequent indulgence to say the least. The coffee...thick, robust, french pressed...the best priced cup of coffee in Vegas for sure.

A couple more coffee refills and it was time for the main course (consumed with water, not coffee.) Without further ado, I will just say that this dish redefined gnocchi in all ways. Unlike Italian gnocchi, the French style utilized butter in the noodles along with the potatoes and the effect literally creates a dumpling that melts on the tongue. Every single piece appeared hand crafted, perfectly tender on the outside, yet toothsome and textural on the outside. The dish was complimented with carrots, spinach, mushrooms fricassee and beurre noisette as dressing and the entire effect was simply perfection on a plate. I honestly cannot think of the last time it took me so long to savor each bite of a dish, but by all accounts I believe I ate each piece individually, slowly. Such simple ingredients, such flawless execution.

Certainly I love foie gras, blue lobster, diver scallops, and desserts considered to be delicacies, but I also appreciate when simplicity yields perfection. While I’ve not been to French Laundry or Per Se, both will have their time in the sun in the near future…but for now I will simply state that if it is the little things that count, Bouchon is doing ALL the little things right from superior service to setting to food. After breakfast I made my second of four visits during the trip to Bouchon Bakery for a carry-along snack…two days later I returned to Bouchon for Brunch, my only repeat of the trip….yes, it was that impressive.