Bouchon, La Bergamotte, Kyotofu, Shake Shack, Buttercup Bake Shop

As has been the case with myriad previous visits to Manhattan, breakfasts and snacks throughout the journey once again saw me visit a number of bakeries and sweet shops along the way – sometimes out of necessity to get to the meeting on time and sometimes out of gluttony because something simply sounded delicious and there was room in my supposedly limitless stomach. With the conference taking up substantial time during this trip and my meals otherwise largely scheduled to fill in breaks in the conference my ancillary eats would be limited to five stops on this particular trip to Gotham – the requisite visit to Bouchon being the first.

With my fondness for Thomas Keller now well documented and the location on the third floor of the Time Warner Center opening at 8:00am on a day when lectures initiated at 8:30 Bouchon would once again prove a perfect breakfast stop and this time all the more so with the further expansion of the Salvador Dali exhibit from my previous visit. Arriving before the doors opened and waiting patiently as a small line formed behind me it was interesting watching the team meeting before opening as the hot items were brought out from the kitchen and arranged nicely on the shelves.

With the doors opened at precisely 8:30am and the line moving swiftly to the door it excited me immediately to see a number of new (or new to me) items on filling the cases and knowing that the conference was to be long that particular day I decided to stock up with a medium coffee along with five choices to go – or at least five choices that had the potential of possibly making it from the Time Warner Center to The Hilton. With service pleasant as always and the bill paid I thanked my server and after sitting down for a moment to look out on to the Streets of New York and take some pictures I made my way to the conference eating as I walked.

Beginning first with the standard order at Bouchon I started my morning with a Caramel Macaron – large and as tasty as ever with flecks of fleur de sel visible on the buttery caramel and the cookie itself the best I’ve ever had at Bouchon thus making a strong argument for early morning visits on all future occasions.

Having promised myself to try the Sugar Brioche this time as I’d heard great things from a friend I was admittedly torn at first when I saw them also selling Hot Cross Buns for the upcoming Easter Holiday but after a momentary debate I decided “both” was the best course of action and with each selection still warm I am most certainly glad I made the choice I did because while the duo was quite similar in their golden exterior giving way to warm and wispy insides the flavors and textures could not have been more different as crunchy crystals of sugar and notes of vanilla lofted from the first while the unmistakable flavors of butter, cinnamon, and currants punctuated the eggy Cross Bun.

Saving the other selections for later my next bites of team Keller’s wares would be a few hours later during a mid-morning break in the conference and picking up where I left off both selections were exacting an delicious, beginning first with a lovely Paris Brest with a crackling choux shell giving way to creamy hazelnut crème that was thick enough to be tasty without being so heavy as to overwhelm the sugar dusted pastry – it was as good as all but one during my subsequent trip to Paris; that version served as dessert in Michelin 3-Star Le Pre-Catelan.

For my final taste of Bouchon I opted to save what was surely the most decadent for last and on biting into “Pain Aux Trois Chocolat” my assumption was confirmed instantly – this was most certainly not a breakfast pastry, but rather the sort of item you eat with milk, coffee, or both while relaxing at a café. Beginning first with chocolate number one – the cocoa powder imbued croissant dough was light, buttery, and crisp. For chocolate number two – a core of dense Valrhona running from end to end and drizzled atop. And finally number three – dark chocolate pastry cream, slightly sweeter than expected acting as the mortar holding together the three separate layers and completing a pastry that may be the best thing I’ve had at any of the three Bouchon Bakeries to date.

Moving from the good to not so good another stop on my trip would be Kyotofu – a visit prompted by their previously being named “New York’s Best Cupcake” by New York Magazine – a distinction I found hard to believe considering they ship these cupcakes all over the country as well as to Dean & Deluca, and a distinction I guess I’ll never be able to judge considering that when I got there they were completely sold of their cupcakes and no longer making more (despite it being only 5pm) due to “a large order for a private function” thus relegating me to two muffins – one a dry and grassy “Matcha Blueberry” and the other a slightly better but rather dull and chewy “Apple Cinnamon” – both of which I can only assume had been baked that morning because to assume otherwise and think they were fresh is…well…unthinkable.

Moving on to bigger and better, a third stop on this trip would bring me to Buttercup Bake Shop, a bakery I’d heard of before as it is well regarded and owned by one of the co-founders of Magnolia but a placed I’d yet to visit largely due to its location on 2nd Avenue – a location that however inconvenient on previous trips became an impromptu destination this time due to a detour based on my hotel location (The Beekman) and the POTUS arrival at the United Nations for a $5000/plate fundraiser dinner.

Making a long story short and saving you the details of me carrying a poster tube down 2nd Avenue as I was approached by Secret Service inquiring as to the nature of my package (a poster, not a sniper rifle as it turned out) I was told it would be about ten minutes before pedestrians would be allowed to progress to the hotel and taking this as a sign I made my way to Buttercup where I was greeted by a trio of young women busy baking, frosting, cooking, and chatting plus the intoxicating smell of butter, vanilla, and…well…butter. With bars, puddings, cookies, and cakes lining each case I was told to “take my time” in choosing and additionally offered a bite of the banana pudding – thick, rich, and delicious with slightly crisp vanilla wafers adding contrast – while I made my decisions; a pair of cupcakes for the road as I still had dinner plans to reckon with and a cup of coffee to wash them down as I waited for the hubbub outside to subside.

At $2.25 and $2.50 respectively my choices would include the standard Red Velvet plus one of my favorites, the Hummingbird – both quite good with sweet and tangy cream cheese icing atop a moist and toothsome cake with the velvet surprisingly not-too-sweet yet dense with cocoa and the hummingbird chockablock full of walnuts, pineapples, and bananas – both first-rate examples and save for the unnecessary red sugar crystals atop the Red Velvet some of the best in the city.

With the conference beginning bright and early for a third consecutive day another breakfast boulangerie targeted for my visit was La Bergamote on 52nd Street and with a long morning run from the UES down to the LES and back plus the trek from my hotel on 2nd all the way to the bakery I was admittedly quite hungry when I arrived – enough so that the already impressive collection of French style pastries looked that much better and the aromatic notes of vanilla, cinnamon, and coffee smelled all the more seductive. With the doors open at 7:00am and my arrival shortly thereafter my entry to the shop was met first by the sights and smells, then by a young woman asking me if I was there for breakfast or just for pastries to go and while I’ll admit the thought crossed my mind to skip the first lecture and try a croque madame I decided to behave and instead order five choices to go – all which were boxed up nicely and placed in a bag while I was offered a sample of the lemon tart and a delicious raspberry thumbprint cookie.

With the bill paid – a bargain compared to the prices at Bouchon Bakery (or especially when compared to prices in Paris) – and taking my order to the street I first stopped for pictures and then decided to eat the more portable items as I walked while saving the others for later at the conference. Beginning first with a recommendation made by my server (and apparently one of the store’s most famous items dating back to the original Chelsea location founded in 1998) I started with a warm slice of almond brioche – intensely buttery with a golden exterior and dense eggy crumb coated in caramelized sugar and sliced almonds; it was the kind of thing that made me want to stop in my tracks, turn around, and order a loaf or an order of the French Toast made with that very bread.

Moving next to my French pastry standard and continuing the almond theme La Bergamote’s Almond Croissant would prove to be a good example despite spending a bit too long in the oven as the crisp exterior crackled on my bite giving way to a fragrant interior with wisps of pastry slightly moistened by a layer of frangipane but holding up nicely and loaded with smooth buttery notes.

With my next three options far more messy (and one requiring a spoon) I was glad to see free coffee at the Hilton when I arrived and taking a seat towards the back I surely made the surrounding diabetologists cringe as I moved on to sweeter things beginning first with my second Paris Brest of the trip – a similar version to Keller’s but unfortunately suffering from a bit too much sweetness in the cream and (again) a bit too much time in the oven as the crunchy choux shell was simply lacking any character alongside the dense filling.

Next up on the hit list was a pastry I’d only seen once before and a selection I knew I had to order the moment I entered La Bergamote – La Religeuse – and with options ranging from coffee to vanilla cream to chocolate the only real decision was witch to order…a decision easily made when my server told me the coffee one was her favorite item in the store “if you like coffee.” Served less ornately than most yet with the choux in this case light, crisp, and perfectly baked before being topped with a coffee glaze and filled with caramel tinted coffee cream this dish proved the highlight of the breakfast and more importantly served as the influence to many breakfasts during my subsequent trip to Paris.

With the progression of flavors from mild and buttery to more creamy and dense my last bite of the morning would be by far the most potent and lacking means for cutting it up without making a mess I decided to take the “Baby Baba” in a way befitting its flavor – as a shot – a yeasty, buttery sponge of a shot topped with sweet cream and so loaded with rum that it made me a bit weary to talk with any of my colleagues until I’d drank some more coffee, but a baba so good that it would trump any I’d had at a bakery prior.

Closing out my bakeries and snacks tour of New York was another unplanned stop, but one that I simply couldn’t pass up due to the novelty of there being no line; Shake Shack. For those who don’t know the history of Danny Meyer and USHG suffice it to say the man is a giant and his restaurant group is the brain trust behind Michelin Starred locations like The Modern, Gramercy Tavern, and Eleven Madison plus half a dozen other locations around New York City, but of all of his locations perhaps none seemed as shocking to me as Shake Shack – a stand where always-on-the-run-New-Yorkers will willing wait in line for over an hour for a burger, fries, and a shake…or more appropriately a “concrete,” the object of my desire on this particular day.

With the line non-existent I made my way up to the window where I was greeted by a pleasant young man who asked me what I’d like and having not realized how many choices there were I told him to give me a moment while I stepped back to weigh the options (and my capacity) before electing for the $6 daily special “Hopscotch Concrete” described as containing Vanilla Custard, Salty Caramel, Valrhona Chocolate Chunks, and Chocolate Toffee and after paying the admittedly steep price I stepped to the receiving window where the decadence would appear shortly thereafter.

Making my way to a bench (like the line, empty, confusing me greatly) after grabbing a spoon and preceding to dig in two thoughts came to mind – the first being that if Batali can get away with $6 for a small cup of gelato at Eataly across the street then Mr. Meyer should raise his prices, and the second that I’m very glad most other ice cream parlors opt to make their shakes, blizzards, and flurries with inferior ingredients because if they were all this jammed packed with outstanding ingredients and such a mélange of sweet, salty, smooth, and crunchy my health and waistline would be in jeopardy and seeing now that the chain has expanded significantly I can only hope the quality remains the same and that New Yorkers can show some restraint – or at least spend that extra time they’re saving by not waiting in line walking off the delicious ice cream.

Bouchon Bistro (4) and Jean Philippe at Aria, Las Vegas NV

There are very few restaurants I feel compelled to return to again and again – the ones I do are genuinely mind blowing (Alinea,) cheap and kitschy (Griddle Café,) or…well, Bouchon Las Vegas. Open for breakfast, brunch, and dinner I’d been to Chef Keller’s Vegas Bistro on each of my previous three visits to Las Vegas and the opportunity to eat Christmas Brunch there with the three most important people in my life was simply too perfect and obvious a choice to pass up. Having contacted the restaurant to be sure they’d be open on Christmas I was informed that they were indeed open but not taking reservations as is their Saturday Brunch policy – I was also told there would be “holiday themed” specials available.

Waking early to be sure we’d arrive plenty early I have to admit I was a tad surprised when we were the first people in line at 7:45am, though we’d quickly be joined by twenty or so others before the doors opened with a pleasant Merry Christmas from the staff at exactly 8am. Checking in at the hostess stand we were quickly whisked away to a great four-top near the windows overlooking the pools at the center of the Venezia tower and presented with menus. With water poured the next person to visit our table would be our server, a pleasant young woman named Arlene who would live up to Bouchon’s customary service – interested and forthcoming, knowledgable and efficient. Describing the chalkboard specials (no “holiday themed” options to be found) and taking drink orders we were left to ponder our choices.

With the same menu as my previous visit plus the chalkboard specials I decided to venture onto the chalkboard while my family opted for Chef Keller and team’s more traditional breakfast/brunch fare on this seminal visit. With two coffees, a tea, and orange juice served and refilled consistently (save for the orange juice) by the ever circling bussers we sat for mere moments before the ever-welcomed epi-baguette would arrive, this time with that same lovely butter and apricot preserves.

Starting the meal proper and finally dining at Bouchon’s brunch with a group I was this time able to order the pastry basket I’d previously held off on for fear that it would go to waste. With four options to the basket plus one included with my aunt’s Breakfast Americane the basket would actually be a silver platter with a blue cloth. Featuring a cream cheese Danish, Pecan Sticky Bun, Orange Currant Scone, Chocolate Almond Croissant, and two Raspberry Beignets each taste was everything I’ve come to expect from Bouchon bakery and both the Cheese Danish and Orange Currant Scone were truly remarkable given the fact that I generally would not have ordered them at other restaurants. Rumor has it that Keller is working on a Bouchon Bakery cookbook and this experience once again made me hope the rumors are true.

Having already mentioned my aunt’s selection I’ll note it was certainly the bargain of the menu – two eggs buttery and medium scrambled, two slices of bacon, two pieces of impeccable sage accented sausage, toasted sourdough, the previously mentioned Danish, coffee, and orange juice for $22.

For my mother the choice would be a dish familiar to myself from two years prior; the bread pudding style French toast. This time using D’anjou pears as opposed to the Bartletts from my visit but again with lovely layers of custard interspersed with cinnamon spiked compote of fruit between each layer there really isn’t much that can be said about this dish that hasn’t been praised before – a touch of maple syrup, a dust of confectioner’s sugar to finish a truly decadent breakfast. To temper the sweetness she also ordered a side of bacon – 7 thick strips of apple wood smoked Kurobuta pork for a mere $5.

For my sister, still feeling the effects of the gluttony at Picasso the night before, something light was desired and the decision was made to sample Keller’s Waffle recipe. Spiked with vanilla and so crispy on the exterior that I’d not be surprised if cornmeal was involved, the interior of the waffle was supple and spongy – textbook. Topped with fresh bananas and chopped walnuts at a cost of $12 I can’t say this was a cheap waffle, but all things considering it was light, tasty, and unfaultable.

My breakfast selection would be from the chalkboard – it would also be the most expensive option of the day but also thankfully the best. Described merely as Oeuf du jour with Crab and Macaroni Gratin the dish itself would be served in a steaming hot low-ramekin. Featuring tender macaroni intermingling with plump chunks of crab, gruyere, breadcrumbs, and butter at its base the dish was subsequently topped with two medium scrambled eggs and sauce Mornay with paprika and chives. Creamy yet textural, slightly briny but sweet, and buttery beyond anything I’ve had in recent memory the dish was perhaps the best savory I’ve ever had for breakfast and the golden brioche served alongside harkened memories of Per Se and The French Laundry, even if the Apricot Jam wasn’t quite as good as the Foie Gras I was spreading in those settings.

With plates cleaned our bussers would clear the table rapidly and Arlene would return with the check – no offer of dessert, just a “No Rush – Merry Christmas and thanks for having brunch with us today” as she handed us the check in a glass cup. A tad annoyed at the lack of promised “holiday themed” specials we settled the tab and made our way to the door by 9:05 – a mere hour after we entered. With the lounge full and a growing line outside we made our way down the hall, out of the Venezia Tower, and back to our room. While certainly a good meal with great company this visit to Bouchon was a letdown largely due to heightened expectations. While there is no doubt in my mind that I’ll find my way back to Keller’s growing list of tables frequently over the coming years I now realize that on a day like Christmas there simply is no place as special as home, even if you are with all the people you love.

Exchanging our humorous Christmas gag-gifts and packing our bags for the Christmas flight home we next checked out of our hotel and left our bags in the rental car while we decided to finish our vacation with some gaming, coffee, and dessert in the early afternoon at Aria. Having already browsed the newest Jean-Philippe boutique multiple times during our visit and having tried the original at Bellagio in the past we were thrilled to note that as opposed to Bouchon, Jean Philippe was fully embracing the holiday theme.

Having experienced the Nutella gelato and Tiramisu on past visits to Jean Philippe at the Bellagio I personally was wowed by the vastness of the new shop’s selection – from cookies to candies to confections and ice cream everything looked excellent and given the length of the line we were given plenty of time to decide. With the space at Aria including a dining area in addition to the vast shop my mother and sister made their suggestions and went to wait out a table – a successful bid that would land us a four-top overlooking the gaming floor only moments before we paid our bill.

Browsing the selection and deciding on a dessert each, plus an enormous chocolate covered strawberry and a coffee the items were plated on clear plastic trays with the Chef’s signature logo – a nice touch softening the blow of a $38 tab. Splitting each item into fourths in order to design a miniature dessert tasting our selections would be a “gift wrapped” Carrot cake, a Nutella Brioche, a Snowman Tiramisu, and a Chocolate Bouche de Noel.

With each item a stunning example of Jean Philippe and team’s handiwork I still think this is one of the best Tiramisu dishes to ever grace my palate and the Bouche was vastly superior to that at Bouchon Bakery just days before. With the Carrot Cake loaded with a citrus toned cream cheese, raisins, and plenty of texture and the Nutella Brioche featuring the texture of a Croissant with easily two tablespoons of the Hazelnut filling within everything was divine, especially when paired with the subtly chocolate toned coffee. A sweet ending to a wonderful trip – and my first Merry Christmas outside of the Buckeye State.

Bouchon Bistro Beverly Hills, Los Angeles CA

Perhaps the greatest American Chef of his time (or any other) I’m not ashamed to admit I have a bit of an epicurean fascination with Thomas Keller, his philosophy, and his long list of disciples…and it seems as though every time I think I’ve experienced all Keller has to offer a new opportunity presents itself. Having finally ticked Per Se off my list in December of 2009 I was made aware that yet another Bouchon had opened its doors all the way across the country in Beverly Hills - with my passion for Kings hockey and yearly pilgrimages to the city of Angels I knew I’d invariably land in a seat at Bouchon eventually – even if it was almost a year to the day later. Having survived the much hyped opening and now a well established brunch, lunch, and dinner favorite for business folk, tourists, and gourmands alike we decided to take advantage of the expansive lunch menu and booked a table for four with ease.

Arriving early at the Rory Herrmann helmed spaced parking was easily obtained via valet and after making our way through the Beverly Hills Garden area, through Bar Bouchon, and past the disappointing Bouchon Bakery “pop-up” we found our way up the stairs past a beautifully lit Christmas Tree and to the hostess podium where we collected on our reservations – a good thing as the restaurant was filled. A thoughtful space clearly influenced by the Salons of France the room was quite familiar to those who’ve been to the Yountville or Vegas outposts – it looks every bit the bistro it strives to be. Seated promptly at a four-top overlooking the rainy gardens we were presented menus and water was filled promptly.

True to form of the other Bouchons, the Beverly Hills iteration features a menu of familiar dishes served at each Bouchon while also highlighting a few site specific menu specials and a chalkboard of daily specials. Greeted by our server, Ponte, we declined wine while my mother and aunt opted for iced tea. Sitting and browsing the menu I will note that this Bouchon was by far the most crowded and loudest I’ve been to – not in a bad way, but in a bustling bistro way that felt very comfortable and accessible. Returning with our beverages our orders were placed, all of us neglecting the daily L’express menu despite its bargain price.

Within moments of our orders being placed the first item to arrive would be a familiar one – the house made epi-baguette. As good as ever and paired with that impressive creamy and grassy butter we went through two branches (7 and 4) during our meal.

Opting largely for lighter menu items given our breakfast and dinner plans the first items to arrive would be a soup for my sister and a salad for myself. Erika’s choice, the daily Cauliflower soup with chives and olive oil was exactly what would be expected of the dish – creamy and smooth, a bit like potato soup, but bespeckled with crunchy croutons and mildly sweet. While I personally would not have opted for this soup I will admit that for what it was it was quite good.

My appetizer selection would be the “Frisee aux Lardons et Oeuf Poche” – a frisee salad with lardons, poached egg, bacon vinaigrette & toasted brioche. Perhaps my favorite style of salad this dish was one of the better presentations I’ve experienced with salty and textural pork lardons mingling with the creamy poached egg. With a base of slightly bitter and characteristically light frisée topped with just a touch of savory bacon vinaigrette I was additionally happy to see a whole slice of Keller’s famous brioche on hand – just as warm and just as good as that at The French Laundry.

For our main courses there were some predictable choices for all – especially my mother who once again ordered the quiche. Having ordered similarly at Bouchon Yountville and subsequently tackling Keller’s Bouchon cookbook recipe for Thanksgiving, the Beverly Hills quiche would be every bit as good as before. Titled simply “quiche du jour” the daily option was Florentine style pairing the expected egg custard and pastry shell with spinach and gruyere – heavy and savory the dish was served with a light side of greens topped with a mild vinaigrette. Still the best quiche recipe I’ve tasted I’d recommend anyone try this at home – it is simple, rustic, and sure to please both the eye and the mouth.

For my sister’s main course there would be another salad - Salade de Cresson et d'Endives au Roquefort et Noix. Essentially a watercress & endive salad at its heart I actually loved the crisp and bitter greens more than I liked the frisee from my salad. Paired with pungent Roquefort, so strong my sister actually passed it on to me because she felt it overwhelming, and toasted walnuts plus a walnut vinaigrette this was the sort of salad that demanded your attention, not the sort that could be served as a “side.” It was fantastic.

At $21 and served with a plate of frites Le Burger Bouchon with cheddar was large and impressive. Sitting on a brioche bun with plenty of vegetables I’ll note I did not taste my aunt’s selection, but according to her it was the second best burger she has ever had (behind Boulevard San Francisco.)

For my main course selection I opted for a second “Hors d’oeuvres” - the Confit de Canard. Featuring Crispy duck leg confit served over toothsome lentils “du puy,” in “saucisson à l’ail & a matignon of root vegetables” the duck itself was superb – crispy skin, thin layer of fat, supple meat falling off the bone. As good as the duck was, however, the perfectly prepared vegetables in a garlic game stock was perhaps even more impressive – rustic and hearty yet nuanced and elegant. Shredding the duck with my fork and knife before discarding the bones to form a stew of sorts this was the dish that necessitated a second order of epi-baguette – not a drop of the sauce escaped.

Happy as ever with a Keller establishment dessert was mandatory – interestingly the first time I’d ordered dessert at a Bouchon Bistro as my previous meals had been associated with subsequent stops at Bouchon Bakery. With the standard Bouchon dessert menu featuring some seasonal variations our orders were placed along with a coffee – the same Equator Coffee blend served at each of the other Bouchons.

For my aunt the dessert of choice would be the eggnog pot du crème with shortbread. Not particularly a fan of eggnog my lone bite of this dessert displayed the expected creamy custard with ample notes of cinnamon, nutmeg, and vanilla. Paired with crispy and sugar encrusted cookies for dunking my aunt and sister enjoyed this immensely.

Less festive but far more tasty from my vantage point, my mother’s option was L’Ile Flottante – a traditional French Floating Island. Featuring a cloudlike vanilla meringue floating atop a glass of smooth vanilla creme anglaise and topped with crunchy almonds, almond cookies, and a boozy caramel the flavor profile was decidedly subtle but the dish was actually all the more impactful for it. A fantastic light closer for otherwise hearty bistro food.

For my dessert selection I went with the restaurant’s signature Bouchons. Featuring the eponymous little cork-shaped chocolate cakes – essentially the same texture as a Valrhona pudding cake – with a seasonal variation this version was simply entitled “S’mores” as the cakes were paired with graham cracker ice cream, burnt marshmallow cream, Valrhona fudge, and a large crunchy house made cinnamon graham. Wonderful ingredients, expert preparations – cake and ice cream is never a bad way to end a meal.

Settling the tab and making our way past myriad towers of seafood from the raw bar and a growing line of folks waiting for seats I realized suddenly how glad I was we’d been sat toward the back – the bar area is quite loud. Quickly browsing the Bouchon Bakery Pop-Up and subsequently the Bar Bouchon menu we collected car from the valet and were on our way to Arclight Hollywood in seconds. Sated and yet again impressed by Keller’s ability to bring that “French” feel to anywhere in America I can only imagine where his next project will appear…and where I’ll find a seat shortly thereafter.