Charlie Trotter's, Chicago IL

Going into my meal at Charlie Trotter's I can honestly say I didn't know what to expect. As I was meeting a friend I hadn't seen in some time I certainly expected a good time, but despite Trotter being one of the most celebrated American Chefs of all time it seems as though many recent reviews have not been as wowed with the landmark restaurant in the same way as they are by Iconic restaurants like TFL or Jean-Georges, or even the local temples of Molecular Gastronomy like Alinea or Avenues. Additionally, after having the most fantastic meal of my life at Alex in Vegas earlier this year I certainly didn't want to go in with expectations too high and end up diappointed. Oh wait, did I say Alex was the most fantastic meal of my life.......make that second most fantastic....

Arriving prior to my friend I snapped a few pictures of the unmarked exterior and subsequently made my way into the festively decorated bar. Greeted immediately by a doorman and two hosts inside my coat was taken and I was offered a wine list (or should I say phonebook) to puruse while I waited. As I sat and chatted with the bartender for approximately 10 minutes I watched many well-heeled Chicagoans arrive and make their way through the vast expanse of the old brownstone to their tables - clearly the current economic downturn isn't effecting everyone the same - the place was booked solid. When my friend arrived we were immediately escorted upstairs to a wonderful booth overlooking the very bar I'd just been in and as we chatted we watched the snow begin to kick up outside. After a short discussion with our waitress about likes and dislikes (no beef for myself, no raw fish for my friend) a complimentary glass of champagne was poured, butter and the first bread course - a fantasticly crispy mini baguette - were served, and the somellier appeard to help us select an appropriate bottle of red to go with the meal. Throughout the meal the service was exquisite and without flaw - all questions answered, all requests granted, never an empty glass or crumb on the table....they even rush to open the bathroom door for you.

Course one of the meal on this particular evening was Japanese Kindai Bluefin Tuna with Cucumber and Wasabi, a perfectly light dish with minimal spice from the wasabi foam and a slight crunch from the sprouts and cucumbers that paired perfectly with the fatty melt-in-your-mouth tuna. For my friend, a Sake sorbet was provided which he commented was quite potent and tasty. Both dishes paired well with the champagne and along with this course a second bread, a 5 seed wheat, was also served. After much oohing and ahhing from myself plates were cleared, crumbs removed, more wine poured, and onward our journey went.

Course two of the evening consisted of Maine Day Boat Lobster with Beets, Chestnut, and Bull's Blood and although each dish that followed was spectacular, this was without a doubt my favorite of the savories. A perfectly butter poached lobster claw lied trisected on the plate interspersed with thinly sliced chestnuts, fine diced bulls blood beets, yellow beet juice, vanilla saffron cream, and heirloom red beet reduction. Somewhat salty, mostly sweet, light and fresh in every way - quite possibly the best lobster dish yet to grace my palate and certainly as good as the blue lobster at Alex and Ducasse's famous Lobster Au Curry....simply breathtaking.

Prior to course three we were served yet another bread, this time an incredible Emmenthal Cheese Roll - a bread so delicious that it will haunt my dreams for months...and warranted us both asking for seconds...and thirds.

Course three was another winner and possibly the most "complex" of the evening's dishes - Poached Pennsylvania Duck Egg with Perigord Black Truffle, Torpedo Onion, Parsley. A 14 hour poached Duck Egg was served next to a Vidalia Onion chip and literally covered with shaved Black Truffle and a reduction of torpedo onion with a drizzle of parsley broth. Multiple textures, multiple flavors, both potent and subtle with basenotes of taste from the onion and topnotes of aroma provided by the truffle - a true masterpiece of composition.

Course four was my least favorite of the savories, but a good dish none the less. Whole Roasted Squab Breast with Birch, Black Trumpet Mushroom, and Devil's Club was just a little too heavy for my liking and although the squab was perfectly cooked, the woodsy tone of the Birch and Devil's Club overwhelmed the bird while the hearty and earthy Trumpet Mushrooms stole the show with their flawless texture. Plated but unnamed was also a wonderful puree of brown butter and spices that paired nicely with the mushrooms, but less-so with the squab.

Course five was preceded by the best bread of the evening, a hearty rye absolutely stuffed with Vermont Maple Syrup and Berkshire Bacon. Soft, succulent, sweet and savory there is no doubt I would have eaten a basket of this marvelous bread had I not four (er, five) courses to go and dessert tasting restervations for later at Tru.

Course five was a substitution for myself and consisted of Roasted Free Range Bison with Date, Gingerbread, and Pomegranate - incredible, the best red meat I've had in years. Perfectly seared rare, the bison was expertly complimented by the sweetness of Date 'barbeque sauce" and gingerbread flash fried matsutake mushrooms provided a unique contrast of crispy spice while the pomegranate was served chilled as another bold contrast to the rest of the dish.

As a transition course to dessert we were nexed served course six - Satsuma with Clove, Sauternes, Tangerine. A tad potent for my tongue, my friend thought this dish was excellent and specifically loved the manner in which the super-sweet satsuma was cut by the bitter and spicey cloves. Having never tasted Sauternes myself, I found the dish intriguing but definitely not a favorite...especially compared to what followed.

Dishes seven and eight were served together and each were mesmerizing in their own way:

Honey Crisp Apples with Cider Granite and Ginger Jelly was an apple served in no less than 5 different ways - from flash fried over a sweetened semifreddo to an unadourned finely chopped slice over a spicey bread pudding, and finally a pairing of spicey icey cider granite and a ginger jelly compote - a true work of art and amongst the best desserts I've ever experienced....yet not even the best dessert of the meal....

Black Mission Figs with Shaved Fruit Cake, Marcona Almonds, Pedro Ximenez, Proscuitto, and Bacon Fat - possibly the single most impressive combination of unexpected flavors yet to grace my palate. Essentially the dish was a piece of nutty fruit cake topped with Raw Cows Milk Icecream, chopped almonds, fresh figs, and a slice of Proscuitto that was then topped tableside with a reduction of sherry and bacon fat. Sweet, savory, crunchy, spongey.....nearly indescribable.....possibly perfection.

After completing this phenomenal dish our server arrived to ask us if there was anything else they could do for us. Jokingly I suggested another half-dozen servings of the dessert and much to our surprise we were met with the response - "well, I think we could do another one." When I stated I was joking she quickly quipped "I'm not" and disappeared with a smile, returning less than 10 minutes later with another more substantial portion of the figs and fruit cake concoction. Along with this dish we were served a tray of 5 mignardises - a passionfruit jelly, a hazelnut "nutella cup," an "after eight" mint, a cranberry nut nougat, and an incredibly creamy caramel - and the bill.

With the bill settled we prepared for our departure and as a final treat were offered a tour of the kitchen, the display kitchen, and the wine cellar as well as complimentary copies of the menu as take home souvenirs. All throughout the tour the staff, from server to chef to dishwasher, was notably smiling and working in flawlessly clean and gorgeous surroundings. Nothing appeared overly stuffy, nothing extremely pretentious, everything simply gracious and wonderful.

Without overstating I can absolutely say that my trip to Charlie Trotter's on 12/30/08 was the best overall dining experience of my life and although not every dish was "perfect," the meal was as close to perfection as one should ever expect. Flawless service, immaculate presentation, progressive flavors and wonderful innovation.....when is Michelin coming to Chicago so Trotter can get the same respect as that lavished on Keller and others?

Over Easy Cafe, Chicago IL

As my daily breakfast is usually vegetable, egg, fruit, and yogurt based I tend to go all out for the sweet temptations when on Vacation and during my recent trip to Chicago I kept true to form in electing to check out Over Easy Cafe for one of my two breakfasts. Conveniently located with unique dishes and cozy size and appearance, Over Easy is the kind of place that would be at the top of the breakfast food-chain in most major cities, but on my visit there was something lacking....that something was service. To avoid bashing the place entirely, as my food was quite delicious, let me just suggest avoiding the chubby female waitress with the nose ring - unless of course you want to have her avoid eye contact while she helps her myriad other tables.

All service issues aside, I found the setting to be very quaint and the prices to be about what one would expect for a restaurant of its ilk. Parking was cheap and plentiful, Coffee was Intelligentsia and refilled rapidly by our bus-boy, and the original service of our food took only approximately 15 minutes from the time we ordered. For our dishes we selected three of the
specials, the famous banana french toast, and a glass of the speckled orange juice - Pretty, but $4 for 8oz? Skip it.

Dish one, selected by my aunt, was the Banana Stuffed French Toast with whipped creme fraiche, bananas, caramel, crumbled walnuts, and powdered sugar and it was worth every bit of the hype. Not overly sweet, the Brioche was perfectly grilled and wonderfully soft while the filling was airy and light, yet smooth and creamy. The crumbled walnuts provided a modest crunch while the caramel and dusting of sugar allowed for just enough sweetness without burying the subtle flavors. A winner, by all accounts.

The second choice, my sisters, was vastly less impressive. Titled Blueberry Crunch Pancakes with granola, candied pecans and blueberries, cinnamon butter and whipped cream, the dish was excessively dry and modestly flavorless until syrup was added...syrup that we saw poured from a large container akin to those you'd buy at Sam's Club behind the bar. For the prices charged, I rather expect pure maple syrup at restaurants like Over Easy; if they can do it at Griddle Cafe in LA and Bongo Room in Chicago, Over Easy should be able to do it too.

Dish three, my mothers, was Spicy Corn Cakes with Scrambled Eggs and Berkshire Ham and another knockout. The Corncakes were like fantastic corn bread with a slight hint of sweet and an undertone of spice that perfectly offset the salty pork and airy cooked eggs. While a better syrup choice would have made the plate an even bigger hit, I was glad my mom had eaten too much sweets at Bleeding Heart and left me a whole pancake to endulge in.

The final selection, and second only to the Banana French Toast in appeal, was my Cannoli French Toast with brioche and sweetened mascarpone cream, chocolate chips, strawberry coulis, pistachio, and whipped cream. Another stunning example of perfectly prepared brioche, this dish was similar to the other French Toast in its subtlety and excellence at bringing forth multiple flavors and textures while still maintaining a cohesive concept. While not as sweet as a typical Italian Cannoli, the smooth mascarpone was brilliantly highlighted by crunchy mini chocolate chips and chopped pistachio. The strawberry coulis was a wonderful addition, but far too little graced the plate to have any meaningful effect on the taste.

Great concepts handicapped by corner cutting and service that suffered from both inadequate staffing and poor attitude - All told, Over Easy is a good little place for breakfast and we happened to luck out with immediate seating when we arrived (When we left there was quite a line,) but it isn't the sort of place I'd rush back to on subsequent visits to Chicago - or the kind of place I'd wait more than 10 minutes to grab a seat at. Try it once, then head over to Bongo Room...repeatedly.

Bleeding Heart Bakery, Chicago IL

As an advocate of healthy eating and the total avoidance of trans-fats, High Fructose Corn Syrup, and other horribly unnatural ingredients I must admit I avoid most bakeries and almost all pre-packaged goods. With that said, a good bakery is a thing of beauty and while baking is something anyone can do, it is something is truly special when it is done well. A great bakery that is also organic and delivers Ace of Cakes quality presentation? I couldn't resist.

Arriving in Chicago around 10am on 12/30 and starving from a long drive, our first stop was indeed Bleeding Heart. Parking was easy, cheap, and directly in front of the building - something we'd not experience on the rest of our trip. Entering the building one is instantly struck by the punk-ethic, crazy decorations, and the delicious smell - this ain't your standard "organic
smelling" store. The line was approximately 5-6 people long and while we made our myriad selections we got a good chuckle out of the skinny girl asking the punk-chique clerk about the carb content of a muffin...."Get out, this is a bakery you jackass" would've been my response, but the clerk handled it slightly more professionally :) While waiting I also wandered to the back and
saw the owner and 4 others mixing batter in the back room which was full of ovens and other kitchen tools, all incredibly clean.

For our selections we opted for a good mix - A vegan Pumpkin Chocolate Cupcake, a Red Velvet Cupcake (a must at ALL bakeries), an Elvis Brownie, a S'mores tarte, a key lime bar, and a serving of the fresh made Pear And Apple Bread Pudding (Bread Pudding is my favorite dessert item, by far.) The total bill was $20 for a whole lot of food and we sat down to enjoy the items at a booth in the back. Browsing the wall art I was very impressed that all the pieces were for sale, alas when I inquired about the price of an intriguing heart wearing an apron the clerk was unable to provide me with the information and the artist was not reachable by phone. Digging in, we each sampled the selections and were wowed to varying degrees by each item.

Of the two cupcakes, both were plenty moist and good representations of the genre, but both suffered from far too much topping and far too little texture to the cake. The red velvet, while tasty, was overpowered by the sweetness of the frosting and paled in comparison to many others - especially the versions at Yummy in Santa Monica and Bouchon in Vegas but also the one later tasted at Fox and Obel. The Pumpkin Chocolate was excellent, however the chocolate was undetectable under the heavy handed flavor of the pumpkin spice.

Next up, the Smores Tarte - decent, but not great. Served cold from a chilled case, the texture was creamy enough, but the marshmallow seemed a tad dry and rubbery while the graham cracker was burried under the thick texture of the carob/chocolate gnache. The Elvis Brownie, like the Tarte, suffered from a very dark chocolate obscuring the taste of the peanut butter and banana - another "decent but not great" choice.

Impressed that the food was organic, but unimpressed by the tastes thus far we next tried the key lime bar - Holy cow! While I admit I'm not a big fan of Key Lime Pie in general, I have had some stunning representations in Florida and at Mastro's in California - this bar topped them all, by far. Smooth and creamy, tart yet sweet, a little bitter and balanced with a buttery
crust....a great palate cleanser after the heavy chocolates.

In a hope that I was saving the best for last, we next opened the Bread Pudding container that had been topped with just a little bit of warm vegan caramel. Without overstating I can definitively say this is the best fruit based bread pudding I've ever experienced. Better than that of Thomas Keller, better than the Refectory......possibly better than the non-fruit version at
Gramercy Tavern.......possibly the best ever. Dense brioche, wonderfully sweet fruits (There were some unadvertised cherries in there too), and flawless density without being "heavy" it was perfect.

All told, Bleeding Heart is a revelation and something much needed in America - no, its not health food and no you shouldn't eat it every day, but if you're going to indulge why not do it with top quality ingredients prepared by a chef who truly believes in what he/she is doing? If you love super dense chocolate I imagine nothing would disappoint you one bit, but if you prefer a lighter touch I'd suggest checking out the fruit based items - especially that transcendent bread pudding.

The Refectory, Columbus Ohio

I’ve been to Lola with Symon’s “Iron Chef” ideals, Handke’s with his Bocuse d'or credentials, and Rosendales with his Culinary Olympic feats…none of them can even hold a candle to the tastes and textures produced by Richard Blondin at the Refectory. Additionally, I’ve been to Michelin starred bastions of haute-French such as Alex, Le Cirque, and MiX with their $150+/pp menus and can honestly say that while their Christofle silverware and ability to source incredibly rare and complex ingredients is commendable and impressive the food isn’t THAT much better than the succulent flavors at the Refectory. I had high expectations walking in the door and left with almost every one exceeded…The Refectory is, hands down, the best dining experience I’ve had in Ohio.

Arriving early in a late celebration of my sister’s birthday we were greeted by the owner himself and quickly escorted to our table in the corner of the main dining hall. Set in an old church I was amazed by the brightness of the heavily wooded room and impressed by the vast expanse of multiple different dining areas and settings as we walked through. Patrons, mostly elderly groups of 2-4, were quiet and respectful and classics from Chopin played lightly overhead. Napkins were unfolded and water was quickly poured as our server appeared with the menus plus wine and cocktail list. Declining wine the specials were offered and orders were placed with the server promising to return soon with bread.

In order to not taint my review with negativity, I’ll get my two gripes out of the way first. Number one, the timing of the meal was excessive with my sister waiting nearly an hour between her soup and her main, but part of this was my fault for ordering three appetizers in a “tasting menu” style as opposed to a single appetizer and a main. My second complaint was the pseudo-French accent utilized by many in the restaurant. Yes, I realize this is a French restaurant, but sir and ma’am are just as appropriate as “Monsieur” and “Madame” and the accent is entirely unnecessary. Aside from that, service was flawless and the setting was divine.

Prior to the bread, in wonderful fine dining fashion, a decadent amuse bouche was sent from the kitchen which consisted of a sublime chicken liver pate drizzled with basil infused olive oil and heirloom tomatoes. While I tend to prefer my liver in foie gras form and my sister isn’t generally a fan of “meat flavored jello,” the flavor was excellent and both solo and on bread the texture was exemplary for chicken. Speaking of the bread, warm and fresh country wheat bread with hints of rosemary and thyme was wonderful and consumed excessively with the soft unsalted butter.

For our first course my sister chose the Butternut Squash Veloute with crispy bacon and yukon gold potatoes while I opted for the Shrimp Tian with portabella duxelle, carrot crudite and a truffle vinaigrette. Served excessively hot, my sister’s soup was excellent, but the bold flavors of the squash left little hint of the bacon and potatoes which were undetectable in the creamy puree. While delicious, this dish certainly was the least impressive of the night. My Tian, similarly, was my least impressive choice…and considering its incredible taste that speaks volumes. 4 fresh shrimp, halved and served cold over a bed of chopped portabella’s mixed with a creamy vinaigrette and topped with a whimsical carrot slaw was a wonderful starter and a mere glimpse at what was to come in terms of contrasting tastes and textures.

Approximately 20 minutes passed and I was next brought something I didn’t expect; the best presentation of sweetbreads I’ve ever tasted. Better than dishes 3-4x its price in Vegas and Cleveland, the Veal sweetbread lasagna with celeri root and whole grain mustard Bordelaise was exquisite. Three large pieces of flawlessly pan-seared sweetbread covered with an herb sauce with hints of cinnamon and mustard, plus two flawless noodles and crispy white celery root. The price of the dish said appetizer but the portion said entrée anywhere else. Considering this can be had for half-price at the bar during the week, I’ll be back.

Fully enthralled by the sweetbreads, another 20 minutes passed before we were each served a honey and apricot sorbet palate cleanser. Better than Jeni’s splendid sorbets and a totally unexpected treat this only served to further amaze me with the Refectory…that is, until 20 minutes later when we were wowed once again.

For my sister the trio of veal, rabbit sausage, and lobster ravioli with morel sauce and for myself the Coquille St. Jacques with Scallop Mousseline, leek fondue and 'Bonne Femme' sauce. Having never tasted rabbit before, my sister was very impressed by the flavor and texture and I had to agree that it was a stunning representation. My sister also noted that the veal was delicious and tender while the lobster ravioli was large and tender, but not quite on par with the version at Worthington Inn. The Coquille, essentially a scallop and egg quiche covered with a buttery garlic and leek reduction, was once fantastic and almost a seafood custard in texture. Having never tasted a Coquille before, I must admit it left me wanting more.

Satiated but not “full” in a bad way, dessert was up next and once again came with surprises…in this case a third dessert complementary from the owner in celebration of my sister’s birthday. For myself, the menu left no question – Brioche pumpkin bread pudding with Mascarpone Ice Cream and Butterscotch Sauce and for my sister the Opera Gateau with chocolate covered coffee beansCrème Anglaise and chocolate sauce. From the house? The warm pear tart with pistachio Frangipane and pistachio Ice Cream (as originally made by Paul Bocuse himself.)

Starting with the Opera, all I can do is be impressed. Like Tiramisu without the rum, but with more chocolate the dish was fantastic…fantastic enough that I got a sliver and listened to my sister moan about how amazing it was for the rest of the evening. Next up, the tart…and more ‘wow.’ Beautiful in presentation and better in taste – a light pastry crust was thinly pressed to the plated and then layered with thinly sliced pears that were dusted with cinnamon and sugar and pan fried. This masterpiece was then surrounded with an artistic array of colors with flavors including raspberry and pistachio and topped with a small ball of flawless ice-cream…had the meal ended with dessert I’d have been plenty impressed…however there was something better.

In a city with many subpar bread puddings I only hoped the Refectory could do right and thankfully my hopes were met…met to the standard of the second best bread pudding I’ve ever tasted anywhere. Succulent cinnamon and nutmeg, dense and textural pumpkin brioche, sweet golden raisins, and a caramel sauce to die for all perfectly balanced by the best vanilla ice cream I’ve ever tasted…there was no way to eat this slow enough and yes, I used my finger to get every last drop out of the ramekin. While I call this the second best I’ve ever tasted (better than Keller, Lagasse, or Wynn’s mother,) I imagine that if it were set on a table directly next to Nancy Olson’s from Gramercy Tavern I’d be hard pressed to make a choice.

After dinner I had a wonderful cup of coffee; a rarity in Columbus since most restaurants seem to rely on Stauf’s mediocrity for their beans, and the bill was delivered while we sat and chatted about the amazing quality of the meal we’d experienced. A total with tax and tip of less than $130 was a bargain when compared to similar experiences in bigger cities and the server stopped by to tell us about the weekly bistro menu and half priced appetizers…possibly the best dining bargain in Columbus…even the owner himself stopped by to thank us for coming in.

Sure The Refectory is not on the same plane with Alex or Le Cirque and the multiple canapes, petit fores, and madelines but the price was less than a third and frankly you don't always need 18k gold bathroom fixtures, silverware handcrafted in France, and lobster so rare it can only be caught off the coast of Italy. All told, I went into The Refectory with great expectations and had all of them not only met, but bested. In a city that many deem a "chain restaurant haven," the the tastes, flavors, and presentation were all immaculate and I couldn't have been happier with the experience at The Refectory. I will most certainly be back in the future.