Momofuku Ko, New York NY

On 12/19/09 I did it – I scored THE hottest reservation in New York City. I was post-call and groggy from a 30-hour shift, I clicked, and there was a little green checkmark for one – the 12:10 seating at Momofuku Ko for lunch on 1/1/10 – what a way to start the year! I was excited – despite having reservations at Per Se, Picholine, and Daniel, tickets to the Rangers game, New Years Eve in New York, the Burton exhibit at MoMA, it was suddenly Ko that I was anticipating most. Having had great meals at Ssam and Noodle on past visits even the fact that no pictures would be allowed didn’t dissuade me, nor did the seemingly excessive price tag – this was a rare opportunity, the ONE lunch serving on the first day of a new decade.

Walking up to the small restaurant – there is no doubt that people who aren’t in the know have no idea what lies behind that door – after wandering Tompkins Square Park and watching the dogs (and unique homeless population) I walked in and was greeted immediately by a thin young man in a ghostbuster’s T-shirt. Handing him my printed confirmation ticket I was led down the small bar where three other persons (a couple and a single) were already seated. Sitting on a hard wooden bench the setting was exactly as many have described – a pair of take-out style chopsticks perched on a bottle cork, a wine glass, a folded napkin, and a small hand-printed list of alcoholic beverages. When I sat I noted Rage Against the Machine’s Killing in the Name Of playing overhead – I’d heard this song similarly in Milk Bar in May.

Casually pulling out my cell phone to text a buddy and tell him where I was I did snap a couple of pictures – four to be precise – before Chef Serpico emerged from the dish-washing area and stated loudly that no cell-phones were allowed in the restaurant. He later told a man down towards the end of the bar that no pictures were allowed, either. For pictures of the food – well, check google, but the only dish on my menu that is actually pictured is the infamous foie gras.

As others have noted, there are no “servers” at Ko – the three chefs making the dishes are plating the dishes, serving the dishes, and describing the dishes while two young men work the front of the house (checking bags, refilling drinks, changing out silverware) and another man rapidly cleans dishes in the back. While I will fully admit that it was thrilling to watch the dishes come together before me, I was a tad put off by how reluctant the chefs were to re-describe an ingredient, chat with the crowd, or show any emotion – I realize they are quite busy, but it is their choice to be on that stage and people are paying top dollar (and time) to experience their creative talents – if you don’t want to allow pictures of your masterful art, then at least have the courtesy to take praise for it (“we hear that a lot” when the girl next to me praised the Uni dish) and answer the occasional question (as an example, the man next to me inquired about the province of Salmon berry and the chef essentially rolled his eyes and nonchalantly stated “Alaska” – clearly different than at Per se where Chris and I discussed the source of their Americauna Eggs for at least 3 minutes.

Moving on to the food, the differential seat timings made a lot more sense to me as the meal came together – essentially 4 persons were served at a time in a rotating fashion so that those of us in the first sitting were getting dish 3 while the second seating was starting on dish 1 – and each chef composed different aspects of different dishes uniformly. To begin the meal, prepared by the most youthful and slender chef (and the only one with ANY personality) we were presented with a Parsnip Terrine with White Miso and Charred Bean Sprouts. Served in a squared spoon the terrine itself was mild and tasted exactly like an earthy parsnip. Surrounding the terrine was a creamy and salty piso with a texture like panna cotta. Crispy bean sprouts topped the one bite dish adding a textural component and the light dish was actually a very nice way to start.

Dish two, entitled Pommes Souffle with Hackleback Caviar and Leek/Sourcream filling was clearly Ko’s take on a traditional caviar presentation – albeit quite minimal in size. A single hollowed-out crispy French fry was presented with a dollop of salty caviar on one end and the other end sliced off and piped full of pungent sour cream. Tasty, but a mere bite – smaller than any single dish at even Alinea, actually.

Dish three was another single bite and was presented by the third server (a young cook receiving extensive instruction from “Serpico” throughout the meal.) Called Duck Leg Terrine with Burnt Mustard and Salmon Berry I actually did not fancy this dish at all as the duck was a nice compressed texture but the combination of burnt mustard and salmon berry gave it a very gamy and unrefined taste.

Dish four marked the last of single bit dishes and was presented by Chef Serpico on a bed of ice filling a wooden box. Called Shigoku oyster with Herb Vinegar and Sunflower Seed I have to admit I was a tad hesitant – I don’t like raw oysters all that much. Smelling the dish first and then sucking the fresh bivalve from the shell I must say I was impressed. Briny as expected the heavily accented vinegar (I asked what the herbs were and was told “it’s a blend”) managed to temper the oyster quite nicely while the salty sunflower seeds added some crunch.

Dish five – a dish that the head chef had been working on since I took a seat, was a tasting of raw seafoods - Medai with Crispy Scales + Chives + White Soy, Kombu cured Fluke with Water Chestnut and Shiso Flower, and Diver Scallop with Buttermilk + Chives + Poppyseeds, Mackerel with Yuzu + Masago + Shallots. Arranged in order of lightest to heaviest fish flavor and instructed to be eaten in that order for an “ideal” experience I followed along, though I wanted to eat the Mackerel as I assumed it’d be the least inspiring. Beginning first with the Medai, my second favorite of the group – smooth and well accented by the chive/soy I quite liked the crispy scales shaved over it. Second, the Fluke – too many mild flavors, it literally tasted like the water chestnut more than anything else. Third, the scallop – wonderful. Completely raw and well complimented by the bitter buttermilk and crunchy poppy seeds, definitely my favorite of the set. Finally, the mackerel – like the version at Per Se the fish was surprisingly mild and the yuzu smoothed out any heaviness that may have been left to linger. The masago (actually masago caviar) nicely added a degree of saltiness that brought everything together.

Taking a break for a trip to the bathroom I chuckled at the setup – books ranging from Adria to Keller to Julia Childs to Batali to “the importance of fat” lining a bookshelf above the toilet. Returning to my seat I saw that my group had already been given their next dish and mine was waiting behind the counter. Presented with full title by the friendlier server, dish six was Uni with Puffed Black Rice + House Tofu + Pineapple Dashi, Ama Ebi with Crispy head, and Chutoro Tartare with Tomberry + Shiso + Scallion. One of my absolute favorite dishes of the night there was no “instruction” on how to eat this so I began with the Ebi – succulent and sweet with a crispy head that I believe was salt cured prior to frying. Progressing next to the Uni – a soup served in a bowl with a large spoon – this was either the second or third best taste of the meal as the fruity yet savory broth really brought out the briny sweetness of the fresh urchin (shucked from shell just prior to plating) and the puffed rice added a nice texture – like oyster crackers in soup, almost. The final taste, Chutoro Tartare blended with sweet, savory, and sour – delectable and simply melt-in-the mouth.

Dish Seven followed a bit of a delay as we watched the plating with great anticipation. Entitled Beefcheek Ravioli with Pickled Jalapeno, Cilantro, Trumpet Mushrooms - spicy as one may have guessed, but actually quite nuanced in the manner in which the spices progressed. The first taste in this elaborate plating was the barbeque spices from the smoky and savory beef inside the two ravioli but after this reached the palate the overarching theme of the dish was actually the manner in which the heat of the jalapenos forced the cilantro into the sinuses creating another degree of “heat” without being Buffalo-style-hot wings hot. Very intriguing dish.

Dish eight could have been amazing and should have been great – unfortunately an overcooked egg made it somewhat mundane. Poached Eggwhite with Black Truffle in bacon broth and Bagel with Bacon Scallion Cream Cheese started out looking great – a poached egg in broth with a decent amount of aromatic black truffle shaved tableside – what made the dish lack was that the egg was overcooked and somewhat spongy without the yolk. On asking why no yolk I was told “it would cover up the truffles.” Funny, I thought the bacon broth did that. The “bagel” was actually an eggy roll stuffed with oniony bacon cream cheese – it was quite excellent and paired well with the other half of the dish.

Dish nine, beginning the second half of the menu, reminded me of something I’d had at Moto 366 days earlier – bar food. Featuring Korean Chili Fried Chicken, Fried Mustard Greens with Black Sesame Sauce and White Sesame seeds, and Duck fat Fried Rice – honestly, it tasted like a crispy chicken wing – no more, no less. While the rolled duck fat rice was tasty and unctuous, the show stealer was actually the mustard greens with the bite of the greens tempered beautifully by the salty sesame sauce and a unique texture added by the seeds.

Dish ten was a sort of intermezzo, I guess. Littleneck Clam Dashi with Kombu – pretty straight forward, salty with plenty of brine.

Dish eleven and apparently some of my co-diners were getting full – perhaps the wine pours were heavy, I don’t know. Matusake Mushroom Ravioli with Buckwheat, Coriander, Pine Needles was actually one of the more inspired taste pairings of the day with a single pre-prepared (the night before according to Scarpetta) ravioli that tasted like the very earthiest of mushrooms paired with crispy buckwheat, a mild reduction with strong hints of coriander, and the overarching essence of pine plus whole pine needles from the grill. Quite unique I have to say I really liked this dish and the manner in which a lot of things I’d never think to place together managed to compliment the overall feel of the dish so well.

Finishing strong, dish twelve was an enormous langoustine filleted and served atop a crispy turnip cake and flanked by poached cauliflower florets and crispy (think potato chip) lily bulb slices floating in a creamy miso sauce. Very Japanese in presentation and flavor this was potentially the most attractive dish outside of the beef cheek ravioli and the flavors worked very well together to form a fragrant and sweet dish somewhat akin, oddly, to coconut shrimp but vastly superior.

Dish thirteen – perhaps the most talked about dish in New York for the past couple years – was Lychee, Pinenut Brittle, Riesling Gelee, and Shaved Foie Gras. Expecting great things I was not let down – you really cannot “think” how this dish tastes and feels – like the most unctuous foie gras but also harkening memories of peanut butter and jelly, plus a “built in” wine-pairing with the Riesling. Perhaps not as incredible as Lee’s at TFL or Gras’ at L2O, but the best foie gras prep I’ve tasted in New York.

The final savory of the afternoon was another excellent dish – potentially the best of the meal outside of the foie. Confit Lamb and Pistachio cassoulet topped with panko, sliced lamb neck, matcha peanut butter mayo, salsify was yet another odd combination but essentially featured a center “ring” of cassoulet made with pistachio instead of beans beneath a golden panko “crust.” Topping this were pieces of al dente soft salsify “noodles” and an oily reduction tasting of equal parts peanut butter and green tea while the side of the dish contained a small folded slice of griddled lamb neck – just overlapping the cassoulet.

Moving forward and bridging to the sweets we were next presented with the cheese course – and an excellent one at that. Described as a Comte Puff with Swiss Chard, Golden Raisins, and comte sauce the dish displayed varying colors of the yellow/gold/green spectrum and was actually quite fetching to behold and smell. Taking a bite I was impressed by the creaminess of the comte and the manner in which the raisins sweetened the dish while the chard helped bring forth the nutty flavors of the cheese.

Hoping that the desserts would continue the trend set by dishes 11 through 15 I was rather disappointed when we received neither the cereal milk panna cotta nor the fried apple pie but instead two…odd combinations. No stranger to sweet/savory desserts after Providence, Trotter, Moto, and Alinea I have to say I wasn’t really prepared for what Ko had to offer – the first being Carrot Horseradish Ganache, Sweet Butter Ice Cream, Candied Ginger, and Pie Crust Crumble. Perhaps this dish would have worked if the pie crust or the ice cream had any flavor but in reality they only served to add some contrast of temperature and texture to the over-the-top heat of the horseradish and spice of the ginger.

The second dessert fared a bit better than the first but was again foiled by a subpar cold component. Titled Bitter Orange Sorbet, Earl Grey Cake, Celery, Fudge the overall flavor of this dish was indeed “bitter.” Probably one of the largest celery consumers in the United States I must admit I was excited when I saw this added to the dessert – it worked wonderfully with the mild and buttery cake and deep and heavy fudge. What through the whole dish off, however, was the sugarless sorbet that tasted exactly like a bitter orange – not exactly the kind of flavor you want to finish a meal. Scooping the sorbet to the side I enjoyed the celery/fudge/cake combination but really have no idea what they were thinking. I understand being eclectic – the olive and orange at Providence or the Mustard Granita at Providence – but this just didn’t work.

Dishes collected we were handed the bill - there was no coffee, only single serving espresso, as Jay-Z waxed poetic about selling cocaine overhead. Paying the bill I have to say I didn’t really feed I’d gotten my money’s worth – not when Alinea is putting 21 sublime courses on the table for only $50 more in Chicago and other places in New York provided excellent meals for less – but in total I was glad I’d had the chance to experience the cuisine and watch the chefs at work – that part of Ko is indeed special. My gripes about the picture policy still stand, but I do understand…that said, the surly and snarky attitudes of the chefs, especially Serpico weren’t appreciated – I don’t want to be pampered, but I’d like to be treated better than the kid at McDonalds would treat me and that is regardless of how high end your ingredients are. A final example of the service – after paying the bill a jar of house pickles and a Kimchi rice-cake wrapped in Nori were slid down the bar with a “Thanks for coming.”

Service gripes aside, there are some things that Ko does very well but there are also some dishes that don’t make sense – and I don’t think it is in a “evolving the art of food” way, either. For 17 courses I felt the first 4 would absolutely have served as canapés or amuses at 99% of fine dining establishments and that the mid-point of the meal was quite weak while the desserts were assuredly sub-par. Following a somewhat logical progression from the amuses through the mild fishes to the heavier courses, cheese, and dessert it felt like Ko was trying to be fine dining without fully committing – and perhaps that is Chang’s goal here. For my dining dollar I’d sooner go back to Noodle Bar and order 10-15 items to form my own tasting – though I will admit I quite liked the pork and rice cake which I ate before heading up to ESPNZone to catch the Rose Bowl.

Balthazar, New York NY

On January the 1st 2010 I again woke early despite being up quite late the night before – and I woke up to find out that the Long Island busses were running on some asinine “Sunday Schedule” that didn’t start until around noon – having reservations at Momofuku Ko at 12:10 this was hardly acceptable so I decided to start the day with a 2.5 mile walk from my friend’s place to the train station – making good time on the recently fixed sidewalks I arrived moments before the train and actually found myself standing in Penn Station at exactly 8am. Deciding to make my way south to browse Soho and Tribeca for a bit I guess I didn’t really think about the day – almost nothing was open, although the still-hung-over crowds in the street were admittedly entertaining. Wandering past many stores, shops, galleries while listening to The Antlers album I suddenly happened upon a long line at a red awning.

To be fair, given the fact that most gourmands are not at all impressed by Balthazar I’d never really paid attention to its location – but there it was, and it was opening at 9:00, so I figured I’d stop in for at least a pastry and a coffee. Hopping in line minutes before the doors opened I was probably the 20th person in the restaurant – and it was bustling and full within 20 minutes of me taking a seat, a line stretching down the street. Greeted quite promptly by my server and handed a menu I was offered a cocktail, water, coffee, juice – selecting a coffee I was asked if I wanted bottled or tap water – tap would suffice. Seated at a cramped little table (even for one) I have to admit I liked the feel of the room – very “French Bistro” with the long bar serving chilled seafood and drinks and a menu focused largely on bistro/brunch fare.

Returning shortly with the first of many refills of coffee – a deep and nutty blend, possibly the best I had outside of Daniel in New York (saying a lot as both Per Se and Picholine had excellent coffee) – I was offered the pastry basket with the words “Can I bring you our basket of fresh baked breads?” which I declined (I later realized this was offered to everyone, at $18, and most people did not expect it to be charged for because of the manner in which she offered it – there was quite the scene at the table next to me regarding this, actually.) Instead asking for a single almond croissant and the Brioche French Toast to accompany the coffee my server quickly disappeared to give my order to the kitchen – returning within moments to manage 4 other tables with impeccable skill – honest to goodness one of the most effective servers I’ve ever seen anywhere.

Returning shortly with my Croissant – still somewhat warm from the oven (or rewarmed) I was impressed by its girth and fluffiness – it stood tall with a nice crisp shell. Unfortunately the interior of the croissant was largely doughy and most certainly not up to par with Madeline, Payard, or Petrossian. Not that the croissant was bad – not by any means – but for $3.50 and Balthazar’s famous breads I guess I expected an exemplary croissant while this was merely average.

Merely moments after finishing the croissant I was brought my French Toast and my coffee was refilled yet again – while they were certainly trying to turn tables due to the growing line, I still must note how impressed I was with my server’s cordial and professional behavior despite being very rushed (as it turned out I overheard her speaking to a colleague noting that the two of them were covering their own tables plus the tables of a server who was running late – even more impressive.) Tasting the crispy bacon first I liked the smoky flavor a lot and found it to be well balanced between fatty/supple and crispy – while I’m not a big bacon eater, this was excellent. Next pouring the chilled (should’ve been warmed) maple syrup over the toast I first taste the syrup – certainly not pure maple like Maialino, but certainly not Mrs. Buttersworth either, for the price I’d rather expected better syrup. Tasting the buttery brioche I will note that the bread itself was sublime with essences of cinnamon and vanilla very pronounced – unfortunately while the outside was crispy and delicious, the inside was again doughy – a combination, in my opinion, of using too hot a griddle and not allowing the bread to soak long enough. Again decent, but most certainly not worth the $18 price-tag.

Receiving the bill and another coffee, this time in a paper cup to take with me, I have to admit I was a bit annoyed by the price – more than $30 when including the well deserved tip. Obviously I don’t mind spending good money on good food, but this was a case where I definitely felt like I was paying more for a name or hype than for quality or quantity. Bill paid I made my way downstairs to the restroom and in the less than 2 minutes I was downstairs they had already taken down my table and seated the next couple – impressive. Great service, a nice setting, decent food and high prices - in the end I have to say Balthazar was a nice touristy experience, but not someplace I’d return.

Picholine, New York NY

I realize it is widely known that New Years Eve is second only to perhaps Valentine’s Day as the worst day for an gastronome to go out to eat – rushed service, inflated prices, servers who would rather be out with their friends – I experienced all of these things one year prior in Chicago at Cantu’s Moto – one of the most disappointing experiences of my life. Knowing I would be in New York for NYE I planned ahead and called all the usual suspects – Daniel, Per Se, GILT, Bouley and even some others like SHO, Del Posto, and the Michael White spots – all had limited menus, all had elevated prices. Amongst places offering a veritable deal for the evening were Tocqueville, Craft, Esca, and finally Picholine – a restaurant that had been on my “to-do” list for 2 years – who was offering their standard menu during the first seating with the only caveat being required 20% gratuity. $95 for three courses +$12 per each additional course and the hostess on the phone couldn’t have been more friendly or attentive – I was sold.

Arriving minutes early for my 6:30 reservation I made my way in the front doors to a brightly lit and bustling bar area full of balloons, streamers, and festive decorations (all invariably tastefully done) to be greeted with a “good evening and happy new year!” from a pair of hostesses. Checking my bag after stating my name I was led through the bustling restaurant to a prime table on the perimeter overlooking the entirety of the restaurant, including the area from which the food was delivered. Declining alcohol my water glass was filled instantly (and never reached less than 3/4 full) and my server greeted me with a menu. A pleasant man who - despite the busyness of the room – was friendly, conversational, and both forthcoming and inquisitive I rather wish I remembered his name because the service throughout the meal didn’t miss a single step. Explaining the nightly specials, including one that he stated Chef Brennan had actually just brought in a few hours earlier directly from a source in Scotland, he stepped away to allow me time to decide.

Returning approximately 10 minutes later I placed my order with the response of “someone has done their homework – beautiful choices.” As my server stepped away the couple at the neighboring table also commended my choices and told me they’d come to Picholine from the Hapton’s prior to a show across the street every single New Years for the last 11 years. Clearly known to the house I actually had a lot of fun talking to the couple (who were clearly loosened up by wine and spirits,) the husband of whom was apparently a local real-estate guru and the wife a good friend of ex-Times critic Frank Bruni. They both disagreed with Bruni and stated they loved the room’s color – and I agreed. Although tables were spaced close and the room was a bit noisy (despite the decidedly elderly crowd) due to the holidays I really liked the feel of Picholine that evening with myriad balloons floating overhead and everyone dressed in their best.

Shortly after placing my orders the first of two amuses bouche arrived – a trio of flavors including a crispy and savory slice of dehydrated salsify with spiced with mace and nutmeg, a succulent slice of Australian hiramasa prepared crudo style and served with lime salt giving it an almost margarita essence, and a miniature crème fraiche panna cotta with black osetra caviar and a potato crust beneath – a beautiful way to start a meal.

The next dish, another unscheduled amuse, harkened back to my meal at Per Se only 24 hours earlier. Entitled Sunchoke Veloute with Black Truffle Foam the dish was another velvety smooth puree of creamy vegetables (akin to the pumpkin at Per Se) accented with a creamy froth (not really a ‘foam’) that breathed the very essence of truffles without overpowering the artichoke soup.

Amuses served the bread man next made his way by my table and at the recommendation of my neighbors I went straight for the Seven-Grain, an absolutely flawless table bread that tasted somewhat akin to less sugary honey nut cheerios. Perfect crust, great crumb, and paired with Picholine’s house-pressed extra virgin olive oil or salted butter. Other bread selections for the evening included a standard whole wheat and a good olive baguette – but really, skip ‘em, eat more Seven-Grain.

The first ordered course of my meal arrived almost 45 minutes after seating – I loved the fact that the meal felt so leisurely. A signature dish of Chef Brennan, Sea Urchin Panna Cotta with Chilled Ocean Consomme, Caviar with black sea salted crisps was everything I expected and more. Ranking on par with Keller’s Oysters and Pearls, Savoy’s Colours of Caviar, and Robuchon’s Le Caviar Osciètre as signature caviar dishes this dish may have surpassed them all in harkening the very essence of the ocean. Creamy and light panna cotta tasting precisely of fresh uni, a broth much akin to high quality nori, Caviar with a briny pop and sea salted crisps that could be added if desired for texture – this dish alone warrants a trip to Picholine for anyone visiting New York.

Still wowed by the panna cotta I sat and texted some friends a happy new year while I waited for my next dish. The table to my right having finished those diners moved along and were replaced shortly by another friendly elderly couple who also seemed to be known to the house – they were actually ordering off the second (tasting menu) seating and notably everything went without a hitch for both our tables despite the varying timings, dishes, and servers. My second dish, Warm Maine Lobster with Fried Vanilla Milk, Endive, Kumquats was another marvel of a sea creature preparation with a perfect butter poached half-tail and claw topped with braised endive floating in a pool of creamy warm broth that did not taste far removed from almond milk speckled with pureed fruit and cinnamon. One of the sweeter lobster compositions I’ve experienced I loved this dish and was more than surprised at the portion size which was quite ample.

The next dish of the evening arrived a little more quickly than the last – likely because it was largely a tableside preparation. Entitled Foie Gras Shabu Shabu with Root Vegetable Pearls and Sweet and Sour Bouillon the dish was presented as a thin raw terrine of Hudson valley foie gras and “pearls” of turnip, carrot, and potato in a bowl. Finished tableside with the addition of a steaming hot bouillon that smelled largely or vinegar and lemon I was instructed to wait “10-15 seconds” until the foie cooked. Waiting the necessary time and then inserting my spoon the foie broke down and with a small stir a “soup” of sorts formed. Taking a bite I was instantly reminded of the sweet yet bitter and unctuous flavor of the foie service at Guy Savoy, but overall found the lack of textural contrast to be a bit boring. Delivering a great aroma and palate sensation I just felt like something was missing texturally – perhaps a “crouton” or more crispy vegetables.

As much as I’d anticipated the panna cotta and the lobster, I have to say that the moment I heard of the Wild Scottish Game dish of the evening I started looking forward to it the most. Taking into account the “birdshot may be present” warning on the menu (especially considering my recently broken tooth scheduled for removal on 1/12,) I slowly delved into Wild Scottish Wood Pigeon with Almond Polenta, Cherry, Mizuna, Parsnip, Brussels Sprout, Royal Trumpet Mushroom, and Game Reduction the moment it was placed before me. A veritable hunter’s feast on a single plate the Pigeon was a bird I’d never before experienced and I was instantly struck by its duck-like coloration and palate sensation but guinea hen flavor and lack of fattiness – wonderful. Chewing slowly I surely did find a piece of birdshot – a piece that when joking with my server later he took and taped to a Picholine business card as a souvenir. Pairing the savory bird with the varying options on the plate – the sweet creaminess of the polenta, the fructose of the cherry, the earthy sprouts and mushrooms, the bitter mustard-esque essences of mizuna – a dish I won’t soon forget.

After a short delay I was next offered coffee – coffee that was included in the meal price (take note Savoy and Daniel) – a very excellent and nutty blend that contained chicory, if I’m not mistaken, and served with (nice touch) warm cream (which I unfortunately don’t use in my coffee.) Arriving shortly after coffee was my dessert - Warm Caramel Apple Brioche with Apple Salad and Salted Caramel Ice Cream. Light and airy yet intensely buttery and with hints of apple and glazed in caramel the texture of the brioche was almost that of a yeast donut while the “apple salad” was a cinnamon and sugar infused sold concoction resembling an apple crumble when taking into consideration the buttery lattice above. The ice cream – divine and creamy – and adding a hot cold contrast to the already well thought out plate.

Following the collection of my dessert plate (I resisted licking it clean) was an escort of mignardises and two more refills of coffee. Amongst the candies and confections were a lavender marshmallow, Cherry Gelee (wonderful,) Tiramisu Cake, Butter Cake (think shortbread,) Cookie “bark,” and chocolates of Cocoa Truffle, White Chocolate and Olive Oil (beautiful), Caramel and Dark Chocolate, and dark chocolate ganache. Sitting and digesting while sipping my coffee I talked with my server about the design of the room and my meal at Per Se the night before – nothing felt rushed and I told him to feel free to bring the bill while I traveled downstairs to visit the restroom (I was to be standing outside in Times Square for hours.) Returning to my table I found a copy of the menu and a small bottle of Olive Oil with a tag reading “Happy 2010” along with the bill. Paying and saying farewell to my server and neighbors I made my way up front and collected my belongings leaving the restaurant just prior to 8:45pm.

Making my way towards Midtown I reflected on the speed, quality, and overall “bargain” of the meal I’d just experienced – if Picholine was truly not at its best on New Years I have to say it must be one amazing experience when it is less busy and firing on all cylinders. Whereas my previous two NYE experience were rushed affairs at excessive prices and mediocre service my night at Picholine ranks amongst my favorite meals of 2009 – the food, the experience, the service – and for my dining dollar I’d certainly recommend it over Jean Georges, Ko, and perhaps even Daniel – even on New Years Eve.

Marea, New York NY

Having dined at Convivio the day before I’d planned on visiting Marea for lunch on New Years Eve even before my server at Per Se suggested it as the “best” Italian in the city – high praise indeed for a city that also contains Babbo, Scarpetta, and Alto. Having read great things about the Fusilli everywhere from the Times to Chowhound and Food&Wine to GQ I knew at least one dish I’d be experiencing but also wanted to go in with an open mind to experience whatever else Chef White and his team had to offer.

Arriving moments before my noon reservation the bar was already quite full and had a lot of energy – an energy that nicely flowed into the main dining room where the crowd was a mix of young and old and the theme felt very aquatic without “trying too hard.” Lines were clean, tables were nicely arranged, and everyone was smiling while the view allotted from the tables was excellent with the hustle-bustle of locals, tourists, and horse-drawn carriages traveling to and from Central Park.

Taking my seat I was greeted by my server, a young man who noted to me later that he had previously worked in some capacity at Per Se when I told him they’d recommended Marea quite strongly – he was a good server albeit a tad less refined than I’d have expected and certainly not as personable as my server at Alto or Convivio. Water was filled and after browsing the menu for a moment I opted against the tasting menu so that I could cherry-pick the items most interesting. Orders placed I sat back and listened to the forgettable overhead music and watched as Chef White himself emerged from the kitchen to shave white truffles over the risotto of a man clearly known to the house. On his way back to the kitchen Chef White stopped by multiple tables to say hello, including mine, and was quite pleasant and appreciative when I told him I’d been to Convivio the day before because of the great meal at Alto on my previous trip. In retrospect, knowing Michael was in the kitchen I should have changed my order and went with the tasting.

Arriving before the first dish was a selection of breads to go with that same beautiful olive oil that is offered at Convivio and Alto – on first pass the breads included a chewy and acidic sourdough and a relatively non-descript poppy seed white. Later visits revealed another bread, however – and absolutely sublime Olive and Garlic Forcaccia with a texture like a Detroit-style pizza crust and great top notes of garlic acting as a foil to the potent whole olives. Watching the bread man walk the room I realized quickly why this option hadn’t been available on the first turn – he ran out every single time he came out with it.

To begin my proper meal I had inquired as to whether one of the more famous items from the dinner menu could be made at lunch. Without even checking with the kitchen my server confirmed that it certainly could be, either in a full $14 or half $8 portion. Selecting the single taste as I wanted to maximize my experience I was soon delivered a single “Ricci” – Sea Urchin, Lardo, Sea Salt on toasted bread. Featuring exactly what was promised the small dish arrived and featured creamy fresh urchin topped with glassy and thin lardo and textural sea salt on a toasty piece of bread. Simple, delicious – a great example of what high end ingredients can do when accented simply. I’m not sure that $8 a piece is exactly a bargain for this dish but it is definitely something worth tasting if you love uni.

The first item from my $19/course tasting was CALAMARI – shrimp and spaghetti squash filled, tomato compote, parmigiano-reggiano. Small in portion but potent in taste I have to say that this dish was good but not “great.” While the calamari was perfectly fresh and the tentacles just mildly pan crisped, I personally felt the tomato compote significantly overwhelmed the nuances of the shrimp/spaghetti squash stuffing and could have used a bit less acidity in order to let the sweeter aspects of the dish shine. I had originally thought twice about this dish but opted for it when I realized the target of my desire from the online menu was not on the current menu.

More olive bread followed the Calamari and mere moments passed before I was brought my first pasta - SPAGHETTI - fresh cut semolina pasta, crab, santa barbara sea urchin, basil. For those who haven’t noticed, the combination of crab, uni, and pasta is more or less a guaranteed order for me – Alto, Convivio, Scarpetta, Marea (and later A Voce.) Cooked slightly past al dente this dish unfortunately suffered the same fate as the Calamari in that the seafood tastes were again overwhelmed by the acidity of the tomatoes and the flavors that did peak through were only a small degree of brine. Having expected Marea to put out a superior version to that of Convivio I have to say I liked both the pasta and the sauce/protein admixture better over at Tudor Place. Annoyingly, when my server asked me how I liked the dish and I commented that the tomatoes really overwhelmed the seafood his only reply was “oh, well, a lot of folks really seem to like that one – you’ll love the next one, though.”

A short time passed before my next dish arrived and, well, my server was right – as are all the critics. Titled FUSILLI - durum wheat pasta, red wine braised octopus, bone marrow this dish has become a signature for the restaurant and is rivaled by few as the most unique and impressive pasta dishes I’ve tasted. Flawlessly al dente noodles and octopus with top notes of alcohol and cherries with nearly the same texture simply melt into a smooth and creamy taste that really has to be experienced to be described. Pulling the dish together is a creamy and exceedingly non-acidic sauce with salty unctuousness of marrow providing a beautiful foil to the flavors of tomatoes, basil, and parsley.

Finishing the small but hearty pasta courses I declined coffee but decided to browse the dessert menu given my previous experiences with Heather Bertinetti’s confections – and lo and behold, bread pudding. Entitled Budino Di Pane – Ginger Beer Bread Pudding, Poached Quince, Caramel Gelato this dish was nothing like previous budinos or bread puddings, but rather three small heavily ginger/molasses accented cakes sitting atop rum poached quince and ginger-quince puree with a side of bitter-sweet caramel gelato and a crispy tuille. Good, but not as delectable as the desserts at other White restaurants and certainly not as tasty as the Bouchon Ginger Cupcake I’d pass on this one in the future and get something chocolate.

Wrapping up the meal and delivered with the bill were four mignardises; a dense chocolate cookie with chocolate ganache, two tangy raspberry butter cookies, and a moist and luscious carrot cake that I’d have preferred as my main dessert course – the cream cheese icing was superb.

Settling the bill my server bid me farewell and happy eating (we had discussed my other plans for the trip) and a good time at the hockey game – he also told me I was “either crazy or brave” to be heading downtown for New Years (after experiencing it I’d say stupid.) Walking out of the restaurant I have to say I was a tad let down – but perhaps I’d expected too much. Pricey for the small portions I can certainly say that Marea is not the deal that Convivio is, but I’d also argue that the food and experience aren’t as refined or tasty either. Still new I’d say Marea has a lot of potential but they definitely need to avoid being pigeonholed as a one trick pony – even if the one trick is that sublime Fusilli – a dish you could make a whole meal of along with the olive bread.

Maialino and Bouchon Bakery, New York NY

12/31/09 - the day after my meal at Per Se I tried to sleep in – I swear I did – I even stayed up until 1:30am talking to my friends the day before, but coming off so many consecutive days of work I woke at the crack of dawn and figured there was no sense wasting vacation time. Showered, shaved, dressed I made my way on foot to the train station and found myself at Penn Station just after 7:45am. Having not planned for breakfast I figured I’d make my way up to Bouchon or Petrossian but instead decided a long walk and pancakes sounded better and made my way south to the Gramercy/Flatiron area to experience Danny Meyer’s latestet enterprise – Maialino.

Having experienced exceptional meals at EMP, Gramercy Tavern, and The Modern in past years I guess I went entered Maialino with a certain expectation – great food, better service, and a comfortable setting – perhaps I should have thought differently when I arrived to a broken front door to the restaurant causing me to be filed through the hotel lobby where a snooty doorman asked me if I was “lost.” Informing him that I actually knew precisely where I was going and that there was a sign on Maialino’s door pointing me to the lobby I received an “oh, sorry” and a finger pointing me in the direction of the clearly marked restaurant.

Entering the doors to a restaurant less than 1/4 full I told the hostess I’d like a table for one to which she stated – well, we can seat you in the bar, we serve the full menu there. Taking my coat and bag and handing me a check ticket I was led to the bar area without even being offered a seat in the main room – seats which remained empty throughout my 35 minute “experience.” Browsing the room I have to admit I liked the feel of the room, though the overhead Coldplay certainly didn’t require quite as much volume. Watching the young (and largely unprofessional) female serving the tables to my right flirt with some younger guys without even acknowledging my table I sat unattended for approximately 5 minutes before my server finally came and offered me water and coffee – highly touted as being from San Francisco.

Offered in a 2-serving press-pot or a single 8oz glass ($5.50 and $3.25 respectively) the coffee was good but certainly not on par with Blue Bottle or Intelligentsia (in San Francisco and Chicago respectively) or even Illy. No refills, sorry – I drank water for the rest of my meal.

Browsing the menu I noted a couple items that sounded good and asked my server his opinion between the pork Panini and the pancakes – obviously he said everything on the menu was good but he preferred the pancakes. Taking his advice I ordered the pancakes and the Bombolini and sat back to watching the crowd around me receive their food – food that looked quite meager, honestly – many items a portion-size that would be appropriate for a 20+course tasting at Alinea or Per Se (and nowhere near the quality.) I laughed inside quite heartily when a neighboring couple of 50+ years received the pork Panini and a muffin – the muffin about the size of a grade-A large egg and the Panini (no lie) about the size of a piece of bunny bread cut diagonally to make a sandwich approximately 1.5 inches thick – the man himself chuckled at it and called the $14 price tag “ridiculous” as he finished it in three bites.

When my dishes arrived they weren’t much more impressive – two pieces of “toast” that essentially tasted like the communion host at a Catholic Church – no butter or jam, I took a bite and left the rest.

With regard to the pancakes – they were decent, albeit again quite meager for the price. With water glass sitting empty on my table at this point I poured pure maple syrup (a nice touch, it was warmed) over the thin pancake and ricotta (note, GOOD ricotta pancakes incorporate the cheese into the batter) and took a bite – a little crisp with a fluffy center, mild hints of lemon, nothing to write home about.

Finishing with the Bombolini donuts (and requesting my water refill) they were again alright–each about the size of a Dunkin Donut hole – and filled with a smooth vanilla cream. At $5 for the two small donuts I can’t say I’d recommend them – especially when Bouchon, A Voce, and others serve much better versions.

Receiving my bill and adding a modest tip the total cost of my trip to Maialino was nearly $30 and I left feeling as though I’d eaten nothing, been sat in a bar, and gotten poor service – pretty much the exact opposite of everything I’d previously experienced at a Danny Meyer establishment. Perhaps the empire is growing too fast or perhaps the breakfast service is just too new – I don’t know, but I certainly wouldn’t go back or recommend anyone go check it out.

Leaving the restaurant and nowhere near my caffeine limit I made my way over to Dunkin for a $2 coffee that was only slightly less nuanced (and 12oz larger) than the cup at Maialino and as it had started snowing I decided to make my way on foot up through the already busy Times Square, through Macy’s, and to Central Park where I watched people build snowmen, throw snowballs, and enjoy the last day of the year. Having read that Bouchon would be closed from January 1st until the 11^th I also made my way back to TWC to see if they had any holiday items and was surprised to see they were still offering the Gingerbread Cupcake I’d heard so much about.

Ordering the cupcake ($3.75 and as big as at least 5 Bombolini) I made my way to the café to eat and actually ran into someone I’d known from Medical school in Toledo in the process. After a short chat I sat down to enjoy the cupcake and was, as usual, very impressed by the texture of the cakes served at Bouchon – dense and springy but light and fluffy – somewhere between pound cake and angels food cake but this time a bit more coarse than the red velvet or chocolate in the past. Topped and filled with the same beautiful marshmallow/cream cheese cream and topped with candied ginger that provided a nice contrast and compliment to the ginger, cinnamon, molasses flavor of the cupcake – it was better than anything at Maialino and gram for gram probably more substantial than the $30 meal.