Bouchon Bistro (4) and Jean Philippe at Aria, Las Vegas NV

There are very few restaurants I feel compelled to return to again and again – the ones I do are genuinely mind blowing (Alinea,) cheap and kitschy (Griddle Café,) or…well, Bouchon Las Vegas. Open for breakfast, brunch, and dinner I’d been to Chef Keller’s Vegas Bistro on each of my previous three visits to Las Vegas and the opportunity to eat Christmas Brunch there with the three most important people in my life was simply too perfect and obvious a choice to pass up. Having contacted the restaurant to be sure they’d be open on Christmas I was informed that they were indeed open but not taking reservations as is their Saturday Brunch policy – I was also told there would be “holiday themed” specials available.

Waking early to be sure we’d arrive plenty early I have to admit I was a tad surprised when we were the first people in line at 7:45am, though we’d quickly be joined by twenty or so others before the doors opened with a pleasant Merry Christmas from the staff at exactly 8am. Checking in at the hostess stand we were quickly whisked away to a great four-top near the windows overlooking the pools at the center of the Venezia tower and presented with menus. With water poured the next person to visit our table would be our server, a pleasant young woman named Arlene who would live up to Bouchon’s customary service – interested and forthcoming, knowledgable and efficient. Describing the chalkboard specials (no “holiday themed” options to be found) and taking drink orders we were left to ponder our choices.

With the same menu as my previous visit plus the chalkboard specials I decided to venture onto the chalkboard while my family opted for Chef Keller and team’s more traditional breakfast/brunch fare on this seminal visit. With two coffees, a tea, and orange juice served and refilled consistently (save for the orange juice) by the ever circling bussers we sat for mere moments before the ever-welcomed epi-baguette would arrive, this time with that same lovely butter and apricot preserves.

Starting the meal proper and finally dining at Bouchon’s brunch with a group I was this time able to order the pastry basket I’d previously held off on for fear that it would go to waste. With four options to the basket plus one included with my aunt’s Breakfast Americane the basket would actually be a silver platter with a blue cloth. Featuring a cream cheese Danish, Pecan Sticky Bun, Orange Currant Scone, Chocolate Almond Croissant, and two Raspberry Beignets each taste was everything I’ve come to expect from Bouchon bakery and both the Cheese Danish and Orange Currant Scone were truly remarkable given the fact that I generally would not have ordered them at other restaurants. Rumor has it that Keller is working on a Bouchon Bakery cookbook and this experience once again made me hope the rumors are true.

Having already mentioned my aunt’s selection I’ll note it was certainly the bargain of the menu – two eggs buttery and medium scrambled, two slices of bacon, two pieces of impeccable sage accented sausage, toasted sourdough, the previously mentioned Danish, coffee, and orange juice for $22.

For my mother the choice would be a dish familiar to myself from two years prior; the bread pudding style French toast. This time using D’anjou pears as opposed to the Bartletts from my visit but again with lovely layers of custard interspersed with cinnamon spiked compote of fruit between each layer there really isn’t much that can be said about this dish that hasn’t been praised before – a touch of maple syrup, a dust of confectioner’s sugar to finish a truly decadent breakfast. To temper the sweetness she also ordered a side of bacon – 7 thick strips of apple wood smoked Kurobuta pork for a mere $5.

For my sister, still feeling the effects of the gluttony at Picasso the night before, something light was desired and the decision was made to sample Keller’s Waffle recipe. Spiked with vanilla and so crispy on the exterior that I’d not be surprised if cornmeal was involved, the interior of the waffle was supple and spongy – textbook. Topped with fresh bananas and chopped walnuts at a cost of $12 I can’t say this was a cheap waffle, but all things considering it was light, tasty, and unfaultable.

My breakfast selection would be from the chalkboard – it would also be the most expensive option of the day but also thankfully the best. Described merely as Oeuf du jour with Crab and Macaroni Gratin the dish itself would be served in a steaming hot low-ramekin. Featuring tender macaroni intermingling with plump chunks of crab, gruyere, breadcrumbs, and butter at its base the dish was subsequently topped with two medium scrambled eggs and sauce Mornay with paprika and chives. Creamy yet textural, slightly briny but sweet, and buttery beyond anything I’ve had in recent memory the dish was perhaps the best savory I’ve ever had for breakfast and the golden brioche served alongside harkened memories of Per Se and The French Laundry, even if the Apricot Jam wasn’t quite as good as the Foie Gras I was spreading in those settings.

With plates cleaned our bussers would clear the table rapidly and Arlene would return with the check – no offer of dessert, just a “No Rush – Merry Christmas and thanks for having brunch with us today” as she handed us the check in a glass cup. A tad annoyed at the lack of promised “holiday themed” specials we settled the tab and made our way to the door by 9:05 – a mere hour after we entered. With the lounge full and a growing line outside we made our way down the hall, out of the Venezia Tower, and back to our room. While certainly a good meal with great company this visit to Bouchon was a letdown largely due to heightened expectations. While there is no doubt in my mind that I’ll find my way back to Keller’s growing list of tables frequently over the coming years I now realize that on a day like Christmas there simply is no place as special as home, even if you are with all the people you love.

Exchanging our humorous Christmas gag-gifts and packing our bags for the Christmas flight home we next checked out of our hotel and left our bags in the rental car while we decided to finish our vacation with some gaming, coffee, and dessert in the early afternoon at Aria. Having already browsed the newest Jean-Philippe boutique multiple times during our visit and having tried the original at Bellagio in the past we were thrilled to note that as opposed to Bouchon, Jean Philippe was fully embracing the holiday theme.

Having experienced the Nutella gelato and Tiramisu on past visits to Jean Philippe at the Bellagio I personally was wowed by the vastness of the new shop’s selection – from cookies to candies to confections and ice cream everything looked excellent and given the length of the line we were given plenty of time to decide. With the space at Aria including a dining area in addition to the vast shop my mother and sister made their suggestions and went to wait out a table – a successful bid that would land us a four-top overlooking the gaming floor only moments before we paid our bill.

Browsing the selection and deciding on a dessert each, plus an enormous chocolate covered strawberry and a coffee the items were plated on clear plastic trays with the Chef’s signature logo – a nice touch softening the blow of a $38 tab. Splitting each item into fourths in order to design a miniature dessert tasting our selections would be a “gift wrapped” Carrot cake, a Nutella Brioche, a Snowman Tiramisu, and a Chocolate Bouche de Noel.

With each item a stunning example of Jean Philippe and team’s handiwork I still think this is one of the best Tiramisu dishes to ever grace my palate and the Bouche was vastly superior to that at Bouchon Bakery just days before. With the Carrot Cake loaded with a citrus toned cream cheese, raisins, and plenty of texture and the Nutella Brioche featuring the texture of a Croissant with easily two tablespoons of the Hazelnut filling within everything was divine, especially when paired with the subtly chocolate toned coffee. A sweet ending to a wonderful trip – and my first Merry Christmas outside of the Buckeye State.

Matsuhisa, Los Angeles CA

Dining with two who prefer their seafood cooked but wanting to have some high quality sushi during our most recent trip to LA there were a number of choices, but in the end I went with the most “LA” of the group. Considered by many to be the birthplace of Japanese fusion in the United States and having spawned greater than twenty “Nobu” restaurants around the world we were admittedly familiar with the branding of chef Matsuhisa when we arrived – even if a meal at Nobu New York seemed like a lifetime ago in May 2007. Having been only mildly impressed with what Nobu New York had to offer for the price I felt obligated to return with a more refined palate and more open mind.

Pulling up to the small space just moments after our 12:30 reservation we were once again greeted by a friendly valet - $6 if I recall correctly. With the weather sunny and clear we made our way to the small door where we entered to find ourselves nearly face to face with the hostess. Greeted pleasantly she noted our reservation and my request for a space close to the sushi bar without being at the sushi bar (aunt was afraid it would smell “fishy.”) Dressed in my Kings jersey I hadn’t even found my seat when I was greeted with “Go Kings Go” from a sushi chef who later introduced himself as Kiri-san as we chatted about the Kings recent offensive struggles. While I’ll note that talking to Kiri was one of the highlights of my meal, another was standing directly next to him – Nobuyuki Matsuhisa himself working the sushi bar.

Seated with water filled in a mere moments we were next handed menus – both the standard Matsuhisa menu and the daily specials of fresh fish and prepared items (replicated on a whiteboard near the window.) Browsing the options in addition to the scene – many regulars, a table of guys in suits talking music, and even a pair working on a script – as light Asian pop played overhead the restaurant definitely has an traditional feel to it with all the blonde woods and traditional lighting, but at the same time there is something entirely “swanky” with the spot lighting and energy of the room.

With an entirely Japanese workforce staffing the restaurant on this particular afternoon and the room nearly full I will note that this was one of the louder sushi spots I have been in, but at the same time the service was refined and all specials were explained at length, fishes described in great detail, and plates delivered and removed rapidly on completion. With Matsuhisa mostly working the sushi bar but occasionally coming out to greet diners (and to chat with me about Dustin Brown, the Kings captain) I’m sure the top notch service was in part due to his presence…or perhaps his presence was due to the fact that they knew a certain celebrity would be stopping in at the end of the lunch hour…y’know, that Raging Bull guy.

Orders placed the first items to arrive would be the house miso soup. A rather traditional presentation of the soup and filled with medium-firm tofu with scallions and saline broth I quite liked the simple presentation, especially as it was included as part of the lunch orders.

With Nobu himself slicing fish and teaching one of the younger sushi-san behind the counter we sat and talking for perhaps fifteen minutes before our main courses would arrive – and of course we checked out the interesting restroom, and myriad posters signed by various celebrities as well. When orders arrived, complete with instructions on what should and should not be consumed with soy sauce, we all chuckled as we realized my aunt would have to maneuver chopsticks…even if her order of Tempura and Chicken with Teriyaki should have been simple to handle. Featuring an orange imbued chicken teriyaki, salad with walnut vinaigrette, and lovely lightly battered shrimp, zucchini, onions, and pumpkin the dish was tasty and ample in portion – and provided plenty of entertainment to us which ended when a diligent server arrived with a fork (she’d refused to ask, but clearly it was too painful for him to watch.)

For my mother’s selection the decision would be her Japanese restaurant “go to” of Rock Shrimp Tempura with Ponzu. Lacking the creamy sauce that often overwhelms this dish at other spots this was perhaps the best Ponzu shrimp I’ve ever tasted with the creamy citrus flavors actually melded with the tempura batter. Light and succulent, tender and sweet, ample in portion and balanced with just a slight bit of chopped scallion – it’s not what I’d order at a sushi restaurant, but I was glad to have experienced it.

For my sister the decision was Matsuhisa’s Combination Sushi – a collection of eight standard fish nigiri plus a cut tuna roll. At $28 the plating included Shrimp, Egg, Squid, Salmon, Tai, Tuna, Egg, Saba and the Tuna Roll. As I mentioned earlier, sushi in Ohio is nothing special and my sister has been known to enjoy that at Whole Foods quite well, but she mentioned that everything was quite good.

For my lunch I opted for the “Special Sushi” featuring eleven of the daily fresh catch and inclusive of dessert for $50. Starring cuts of Medium Toro, Nishin, Jumbo Clam, Bonito, Shrimp with Eggs, Amberjack, Sea Eel, Kohada, Kinmedai, King Salmon, Japanese Giant Squid, and Egg the only flavor which I’d never experienced before was the Nishin – apparently a form of Herring that was quite fatty and potent, but tender and mellowed by a brushing of Yuzu. Considering a slice of Kinmedai was listed on the menu at $9 while the medium Toro (probably the best slice of fish I’ve ever eaten) was marked at $7.50 the value of this lunch was notable and the Giant Squid, Jumbo Clam, and Amberjack were all exemplary.

With dessert already included on my tab – a selection of daily ice cream or sorbet – the others decided to peruse the dessert menu and with little hesitation decisions were made. For my included dessert the choice was Honey Sorbet with fresh fruit, a creamy fructose laden tennis-ball-sized scoop paired with better fruit than we’ll see for the next 5 months in Ohio. Never one to just order ice cream for dessert I will note that this was one of the tastiest ice creams I’ve had in some time and the mouth feel was smooth as silk.

Knowing ice cream was not going to be fancy enough I also decided to taste Matushisa’s Mochi – Red Bean and Coffee flavors, also paired with fruit. Mild and sweet, a bit sticky but not at all gummy the mochi skins were excellent while the ice cream within was mild and creamy. Had I known my sister’s dessert was to come with coffee ice cream I’d have likely ordered something different, but I’m actually glad I didn’t because the flavor was that of sweetened black coffee and a lovely last taste for the meal.

For my sister’s dessert she would defy her dislike for green tea and embrace her love for Tiramisu in the form of Nobu’s famous Green Tea Tiramisu. Certainly not your traditional Italian style this slightly bitter cake was full of matcha flavor counterbalanced with what I can only assume was Cointreau given the boozy orange top notes. Creamy with mascarpone and nicely presented the dish was decidedly heavy – like most tiramisu – but at the same time smooth and airy. Paired with coffee ice cream, clearly a nod to the original, there may have been a bit of bitter on this plate but the sweet certainly wasn’t overshadowed.

The best dessert of the afternoon would belong to my mother - Banana cake with banana sorbet, caramel, and butter cream icing. A large round somewhere between bread pudding and angel food cake the texture of the cake was light and moist while the baked in caramelized bananas provided pockets of explosive sweetness. Topped with banana sauce, sticky caramel, and a spread of buttery icing before a large ball of banana ice cream (complete with chunks of frozen banana) was dropped atop the flavors were all familiar and although the least innovative, it was simply the most tasty.

The final dessert, my aunt’s choice, was a daily special - Gianduja Chocolate Fondue with Marshmallows, Ginger Cake, Fresh Fruit, Matcha Gelee, and Wafers. Featuring one of my favorite maker’s 62% dark chocolate melted atop a candle there was really no way this dessert could fail and it most certainly did not. With each fruit fresh and sweet and the marshmallows, cake, and wafers all prepared in house I have to say the Matcha Gelees did not appeal to my aunt, but I thought the bitter/bitter of dark chocolate atop matcha was really quite excellent.

With the bill settled I chatted a bit more with Kiri-san before we settled the bill and stood up from our seats. With Matsuhisa wishing us a farewell and a “go Kings” we made our way to collect the car from the valet…the valet who pull up with our rental Hyundai only moments before he would park the Mercedes of a living legend.

…sure we saw Robert DeNiro drive up in his Mercedes. Sure Nobuyuki Matsuhisa himself was cutting fish and plated a number of my sushi selections. Sure better fish can likely be found at a lower price in the Los Angeles area. Sure we couldn’t have been guaranteed some of the things we saw or tasted on the afternoon of December 23rd, but the fame and potential of such things were enough to prompt our Matsuhisa Beverly Hills reservations. In the end the simple fact is we don’t have good sushi, revolutionary sushi chefs, or celebrities (let alone perhaps the greatest actor of all time) in Ohio – and honestly, I would have been more than happy to settle for “great” as opposed to “killed on premises amazing” sushi at Matsuhisa even without the star gazing because the food and service were excellent – but I’m not going to lie, seeing Nobu and DeNiro was pretty cool.

Vetri, Philadelphia PA

With Amis and Osteria setting the stage, Marc Vetri's eponymous temple of contemporary Italian was "THE" destination restaurant of my visit to Philadelphia. Opened in 1998 and consistently named as one of the 40-best restaurants in the country by Gayot the intimate 40-seat space (occupying the original Le Bec Fin) serves as host to a Beard Award winning chef, wine program, and service staff...it has also been called the best Italian restaurant in America by both Alan Richman and Mario Batali. With such high praise Vetri had been number one on my "to visit" for approximately 8 months - in other words, since I dined at Per Se (although obviously there were many a great meals in between.)

Raised in Philadelphia and trained both locally and overseas Vetri's concept is the sort you cannot help but respect - high focus on bold flavors while utilizing the very best ingredients with the "simplest techniques to convey their purity." Combining this concept with award winning service and a menu of classics as well as seasonal updates plus an environment intended to replicate dinner at a friend's house Vetri seemed like everything I want from my dining experience. Explaining via E-mail that I hoped to experience as many signatures as possible I was assured that this could easily be accomidated whether I attended for the Degustazione or a weekday meal. Obviously opting for the signature Friday Degustazione the expectations were high to say the very least.

Making my way up to the tiny row-house on Spruce I couldn’t help but think of Babbo or VOLT, but on making my way in the door the feel was more French Laundry – a small entry way with a rather simple hostess stand and lovely flowers. Greeted promptly and pleasantly by one of the nearly entirely female staff I was led to a small table in the main dining room. Chair and table pulled out for me I took a seat and once my water selection was confirmed the hostess returned to station as the restaurant was already filling up despite opening only 5 minutes earlier.

Greeted next by one of the 5 female servers I was offered a glass of Prosecco to welcome me – while I don’t normally consume alcohol I’d never tried Prosecco so I agreed. Dry and sweet with hints of citrus; in my opinion better than champagne I have to say it was a welcomed flavor. Greeted next by the Sommelier he explained the wine pairing and when I stated I most certainly couldn’t handle that much liquor and asked what he recommended as something that would pair best with the later courses since I planned to nurse my Prosecco he surprisingly recommended the most affordable per-glass item on the menu, a lovely Rose title Librandi, Ciro Rosato 2008 with hefty hints of strawberry, cherry, and spice.

Greeted next by my captain for the evening the menu format was explained and my requests for “mostly” classics confirmed. For those unfamiliar with the Degustazione there is only one menu with 4 sections, each section containing 3-5 options. From that list the diner is served, at the chef’s discretion, 2 Antipasti, 2 Pasti, a Secondi, a palate cleanser, and a dolci. One can substitute a cheese course for the dolci or add it on for a mere $10. Both diners are not guaranteed the same menu, but likes and dislikes are accounted for. Stating I was not opposed to any of the options I was met with a smile and left with great anticipation.

Sitting solo my neighbors decided to chat with me, an older couple celebrating their 30th wedding anniversary. Nice folks I use them as a reference with regard to the sound level at Vetri – it is quiet enough that you can hear the table next to you, but loud enough that the buzz of the restaurant can provide more than enough privacy. Browsing around the room at the lovely florals, hard woods, and yellow walls everything felt very “Vetri,” after having been to the other two restaurants. Also similar to Osteria and Amis was the fantastic service; though obviously a bit more refined at the flagship it remained humble, conversant, and formal without feeling stuffy.

Seated for approximately twenty minutes my amuse du jour would arrive – or, actually four of them. Beginning right to left my first taste of Vetri would be spicy house made Calabrese salami with hefty porky flavors well tempered by pepper, paprika, and onion. Next up, a lightly fried Zucchini fritter with a supple and aromatic interior tasting of cinnamon and cheese – crunch giving way to creamy. Skipping to the end of the platter I next sampled the Rabbit Rillet – expectedly gamey and cut with just a hint of chives and toasted bread it was good, but unmemorable compared to the rest. The final bite, a Vetri classic, would be the Foie Gras Pastrami with peach mustarda on brioche. Smooth as butter, spiced precisely like pastrami, and accented by the sweet compote – a beautiful bite that I could have certainly tolerated in greater abundance.

With amuse plate cleared the bread man (always my favorite staff member unless there is a mignardise cart) arrived and presented a plate of freshly pressed olive oil along with three styles of olives. Salty and smooth I managed to go through 2-bowls of the savory fruits paired with the warm house made breads of the evening - Semolina Focaccia and Tuscan Wheat. The first salty and dense, the second airy and mildly bitter, but both a nice pairing with the olives and oil.

Almost as if reading my mind the tasting menu proper would begin with a seasonal selection - the Squid and Artichoke Galette. Fried gently and drizzled with olive oil and lemon the dish was as much fritter as galette and the creamy texture of the artichokes balanced nicely with the succulent and slightly savory squid. A solid opening act, but undoubtedly the weakest of the evening...which says a lot for everything that would follow.

Arriving next would be the first in a succession of Vetri classics (and per many his most wonderful,) The Sweet Onion Crepe with truffled parmesan fondue and parmesan gratinee. Utilizing caramelized golden onions rolled with cheese into the form of a crepe and then sliced the round is then topped with grated parmesan and broiled. Subsequently plated onto an inverted bowl in a shallow pool of truffle accented fondue the presentation is actually quite subtle – but the flavor is anything but. Aromatic without being pungent, salty without overpowering the nuance, crispy on the exterior and smooth within – perhaps the best thing ever done with an onion outside the famous “000” at Restaurant Eve…perhaps even better.

Having sopped up every drop of fondue with the focaccia it was a surprisingly short amount of time before my next course would arrive. Potentially my most anticipated dish since Achatz's Black Truffle Explosion the Spinach Gnocchi in Brown Butter was everything I'd hoped for and more. Having been told jokingly by a friend the day before that I should keep my hands above the plate to make sure these perfect dumplings didn't float away my first bite awakened me to exactly what he meant - light as a cloud yet so densely packed with flavor that they did not even seem real. Made of only sieved spinach, egg, and a "spot" of cream the four balls rested unassumingly in a pool of scalded butter with shredded smoked ricotta atop yet somehow the whole was much more than the sum of its parts - the best gnocchi I've ever had, even if they contained none of the ingredients of traditional gnocchi at all.

Again returning a clean plate to the kitchen and again receiving my next course within ten minutes, my second pasta would prove nearly as lovely as the first. Once again featuring a restrained and simple plating, Almond Tortellini was anything but simple and restrained - as a matter of fact, its complexity given the minimalist ingredients was perhaps more impressive than the gnocchi. Packed to almost bursting the pockets of pasta were soft and smooth while the interior of risotto and creamy cheese provided a nuanced contrast. Topped with crunchy toasted almonds and lightly sauced with a reduced white truffle sauce the entirety of the plate was everything Vetri promises about ingredient purity and simplistic technique of preparation - flawless.

Not yet nearing satiety (yes, I know...) I was a tad worried when I was told my main course would be arriving next - thankfully there would be a twenty minute delay and some more bread as my stomach caught up with my brain. Arriving shortly and impressively plated would be "Capretto" or Baby Goat on soft golden polenta. With crispy skin giving way to smoky grilled loin (I was told I got "the best piece") the flavor of the goat was much less meaty than the version at Komi and the skin was far less crispy - it was almost like a different animal. Pairing the mesquite grilled flavor with the buttery smooth polenta was a nice variation in texture, but overall I think I fancy a less refined approach for goat.

Having seen the cheese carte on entry I was somewhat disappointed when cheeses were selected by the staff and served on a cheese board, but with that said the selections were excellent. Served with local wildflower honey and fig marmalade plus raisin toast the board consisted of four selections in ample portion for the mere $10 supplement. Amongst the selections were Ubriaco del Piave (cow’s milk cheddar with red wine,) Pecorino Tartufo (sheeps milk with truffle shavings,) Verde Capra (Goats' Milk Blue cheese,) and Moliterno (raw sheeps milk with black truffle.) Usually a fan of mild fromage I have to say I was most taken by the Verde Capra and its creamy texture with pungent flavor and the Moliterno with its earthy aromatics and sharp taste.

The intermezzo of the day would be a watermelon Gelee w/ Prosecco. Instructed to make sure I mixed the two layers well I did exactly that and consuming the single shot of liquid provided a taste and texture not dissimilar from a jello shot with significantly more watermelon than alcohol.

Prior to dessert proper I was offered coffee - La Colombe once again. Stating that I'd love coffee, especially if dessert was chocolate based (after Amis and Osteria I knew this to be wise,) I was assured that the dish would indeed be chocolate. Consuming three cups from an elegant French Press La Colombe once again did not fail to impress with its bold caramel high notes and thick cocoa finish.

Having noted only one chocolate dessert on the menu I knew what would be next and I was not disappointed when the signature Chocolate Polenta Souffle with Vanilla Gelato arrived. Not technically a soufflé in presentation the dessert was fantastic in smell and taste, but most interesting in texture. Utilizing Italian cornmeal in the almost "lava cake" presentation the interior was not precisely molten, but more like the interior of a soufflé while the exterior possessed a crunchy coating not unlike a canele. Paired with creamy vanilla gelato that tasted almost as if it were yogurt based this was classic "chocolate cake and vanilla ice cream" done, like everything else, simply and expertly.

Happy and impressed but still wanting more I was very happy when the mignardises arrived with another refill of coffee. Featuring a dense Chocolate torte, Pistachio brittle, Blueberry pate a fruit, Yuzu tarts, Honey Macaroon, and Tiramisu opera cakes each option was quite nicely done but the brittle and macaroon stood out most - both were among the best mignardises I've had since Alex or TRU.

The final treat of the evening would arrive with the hand-written bill - a take home bag, signed and painted menu, and two lemon muffins for "breakfast" - or, the walk home. Surprisingly mild the polenta based muffins were actually quite lovely and their toothsome texture bested either of the table breads by some degree. Before leaving a veritable parade of persons including the chef du cuisine, sommelier, hostess, and waitresses would stop by to ask how I enjoyed the evening - a very nice touch indeed.

When it was all said and done I made my way from the final stop on the tour of Vetri very happy but at the same time thinking that when (not if, but when) I come back I would likely not go for the Degustazione again. While a great deal at $145 for 9 courses plus Prosecco, amuses, mignardises, and take home muffins (essentially the same number of courses and gifts as The French Laundry at $240 and Per Se at $275) there is a certain kind of "plate envy" that occurs when you see a menu with 15 options that sound great and you only get 8 of them - a nagging part of me that wished I'd have offered to pay double to try everything, or to go during the week and order the grand tasting plus multiple supplements. Some may call the previous statement gluttonous...that's okay, I'm fine with being labeled as such when every single course at three different restaurants was good to great while the service and setting was equally grand. Rumor has it Vetri will next be opening a spot in Atlantic City...I haven't been there yet...but I bet it will be excellent.