Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Lidia's, Pittsburgh PA

Lunch on the second day of our visit was the one restaurant that gave me pause when booking the reservation – reviews were mixed, the chef was a celebrity, the location was trendy, and it was part of a mini-chain. On the other hand, my previous experiences in the Batali and Bastianich empire of restaurants had been a resounding success and this was the restaurant of Joseph’s mother, Lidia’s…it had also been in operation for nearly a decade, was designed by David Rockwell’s Group, and had recently held onto its three-star review from the Post-Gazette. Always on the lookout for excellent Italian and impressed by the bargain basement lunch menu we decided to give Lidia’s Pittsburgh a try.

Arriving at the midpoint of the lunch hour we were surprised to find the restaurant less than 1/4 full. With the bar empty and only one section being seated be claimed our reservation and were led quickly to a table near the large glass windows – an excellent view of the river would be our companion throughout the meal. Meeting our waiter, a friendly man named Chendo we were given menus and a brief explanation of the daily special pastas for the Pasta Trio. Left to decide what sounded best (honestly, there were far more great options than mediocre options) one of the numerous members of the ancillary staff arrived to fill our water glasses and take drink orders – tea for my sister, coffee for myself, iced tea for mom. With the restaurant quite slow that day I will note we were very well taken care of throughout out meal – the service staff was excellent.

Browsing the high ceilinged room, randomly placed bottles and objects, and abundant brightly colored glass panels plus Chihuily influenced chandeliers I have to say Lidia’s is a very handsome restaurant – it has that “wow” factor of many New York City dining rooms (The Modern or Alto come to mind.) While the white paper over white tablecloth aspect of the table setting struck me as odd, everything else felt “fine dining” without seeming forced. When Chendo returned we placed our orders and were surprisingly told soup or salad would be included with the meal – a nice touch, albeit unadvertised.

Sitting and waiting for our meals to arrive we were first delivered one of the better bread baskets I’ve had in recent memory - Sea Salt Foccacia, Rustic Italian, and Cracked Wheat Sourdough served with two spreads, a Chick Pea Pesto and pureed White Beans with Black Olive, both resting in a pool of slightly sweet extra virgin olive oil. Served warm the breads were tantalizing and given the size of the portions soon to be arriving it was definitely a chore not to overindulge (a chore I failed, miserably.)

Approximately 10 minutes after orders were placed our first course arrived as promised – a competent albeit under seasoned Leek, Potato, and Bread Soup. Served piping hot my first bite was deceiving in that I thought the temperature was responsible for the obscuring the flavor. Unfortunately as the soup began to cool I realized that I was not fooled – the soup just wasn’t well done. Pungent and potato laden, in reality the only seasoning seemed to come from the salt on the bread. Not a good start – even if it was free.

For our main courses my mother opted for a salad and a contorti while Erika and I chose pastas. For myself (unpictured due to a camera malfunction) the choice was quite simple - my favorite pasta and my favorite protein on the same plate, Gnocchi with Duck Guazetto. An Italian Stew not unlike Chicken Cacciatore, but featuring duck in white wine instead of Chicken in Red the thick reduction was hearty, meaty, smoky, and laden with vegetables. Paired with a toothsome yet non-doughy potato gnocchi the dish was not only enormous, but incredibly filling. While I will admit I ate a lot of bread and helped my mother and sister with their plates I can say that this was one dish I couldn’t finish, it was just too large – but it was so good that had our hotel had a microwave I’d have certainly taken some home with me.

For Mother’s selection she opted for the Roasted Beet and Apple Salad with Frisee and Fresh Goat Cheese plus the Pan Seared Golden Polenta Fritters. A competent salad with sweet apples balancing earthy beets and pungent goat cheese the dish was brought together by a splash of balsamic and olive oil, ample in size and flavor, very nicely done. Not fairing quite as well as the Salad were the Fritters – nicely prepared and crispy on the outside with creamy polenta within, they again lacked flavor, much like the soup. Paring the fritters with some of the sauce from my sister’s pasta or the Guazetto certainly helped, but if I were Lidia’s I’d use a more aromatic cheese or pair these squares with a marinara.

Erika’s selection would be the signature Pasta Trio – three pastas plated tableside with unlimited refills. Admittedly the concept sounds somewhat “Olive Garden” but that is before you realize two of the pastas are made in house and one is imported direct from Italy…and all the sauces are made daily in the kitchen, as well. Served up onto a single large platter the daily selections for the 29th of June would be hand torn Tagliatelle and Pork Ragu, Imported Orchiette with Fennel Sausage and Thyme, and house folded Sweet Pea and Corn Ravioli with Cream Sauce. Enormous in portion I cannot really fathom anyone requiring seconds of the trio and at a mere $14 the selections were excellent. Smoky and Sweet the Pork Ragu complimented the al dente Tagliatelle nicely while the aromatic sausage was an equally balanced flavor for the Orchiette (which, in my opinion could have used a little more straining prior to adding the sauce.) The most impressive of the group, the sweet pea and corn ravioli, was sweetened only by the vegetal components while the cream itself had notes of cinnamon and nutmeg. Some may call the trio gimmicky – personally, if a gimmick is good I don’t mind.

Returning food to the kitchen and actually quite full we originally declined Chendo’s suggestion of dessert – but then decided it wouldn’t hurt to look at the menu...well, at least it wouldn’t hurt anything but our waistlines. Browsing the menu from top to bottom and finding not a single unimpressive option we decided to go with two desserts to be shared around. Arriving simultaneously and thankfully smaller than the entrees was Torta di Mandorle e Mirtilli - Blueberry and almond cake, blueberry-lavender ice cream, almond crunch, blueberries. If a little is good a lot is better seemed to be the theme of this dessert and it worked nicely – the fresh blueberries lacing the buttery pound cake, the flowery accent to the blueberry ice cream, and the crunchy sugared almonds paired with even more blueberries – excellent.

The second dessert, larger in size but lighter in texture, would be Panna Cotta alla Fragola - Strawberry and ricotta panna cottas, lemon-strawberry sandwich cookies, fresh strawberries. Served in a 12oz glass better suited for a milkshake the panna cotta was surprisingly springy and well blended with a more gelatin strawberry base topped by an ample creamy layer of whipped cream and ricotta. Unnecessary but welcomed the lemony cookies were much akin to a shortbread in texture and Madeline in flavor.

Settling the modest bill my mother picked up a Jar of Lidia’s Marinara as a souvenir for my aunt and paid up front before we made our way to the street. With a full afternoon of wandering Falling Water and Nemacolin ahead of us I have to admit I slept like a baby in the car while my mother and sister navigated – a nice carb load will do that to you. Thinking back on the meal I have to admit it wasn’t the best Italian food I’ve ever had, but it was nicely done and served at an excellent price point in a fantastic room. Having heard “upscale Olive Garden” comparisons I personally find that assessment far from accurate and would actually go so far as to say that aside from the lack of seasoning (ironic given the fact that most people critique Batali and Bastianich restaurants for over seasoning) the experience was on par with many fine dining Italian establishments in other cities…if the portions were smaller I’d have loved to try more of the menu.

Pamela's P+G Diner and Mon Aimee Chocolat, Pittsburgh PA

Their recipes are well guarded, the restaurant world famous, the chain ever expanding, and they even cooked for the President at The White House – clearly a visit to Pamela’s was on the agenda for our trip to Pittsburgh. Arriving on the strip around 8:00am and finding meter parking for a mere 50 cents we made our way from the car, hit the ATM (cash only at Pamela’s) and entered the restaurant to find it just under 1/2 full. Invited by a friendly young woman to seat ourselves we opted for a booth along the wall and sat for a moment absorbing the kitsch...vinyl furniture, plastic menus, stone walls, and random photographs of celebrities past and present.

Opening the menus and blatantly skipping all the boring eggs, bacon, and ham our waitress appeared to fill drink orders. With only sweet n’ low and sugar available for the coffee I opted to stick with water while my mom chose coffee and my sister selected tea. Drinks delivered, including full pitchers of each to put the diner on refill duty, we placed our orders and browsed the lively restaurant while listening to the sounds of classic tunes overhead. Founded in 1980 Pamela’s certainly appeared older than its stated age, but it worked.

Waiting less than fifteen minutes our waitress checked in on us to be sure nothing else was needed and to let us know our food would be right out…after watching our neighbors receive their options I have to admit I was quite excited…and without fail the food arrived moments later, piping hot from the griddle. With each of us selecting a different item and each plate large in portion and ample in flavor there was much sharing to be done.

Beginning first with my selection, perhaps Pamela’s most famous option, I opted for the Strawberry Hotcakes. Served in Pamela’s famous crepe style the hotcakes themselves were divine. Yeasty and soft yet caramelized and crisp around the circumference the pancakes themselves were stunning. More impressive yet, ordered in the peak of strawberry season, the cakes were absolutely stuffed with super sweet fresh strawberries, brown sugar, and a zippy sour cream then topped with whipped cream. Adding a touch of syrup (unfortunately not pure maple) the whole plate came alive – really, the dish made a fantastic breakfast but could have just as easily been served as dessert.

Following my lead and going with the signature hotcakes my mother received two enormous cakes absolutely crammed with hot bananas, bittersweet chocolate chips, and packed with whipped cream. Nicely caramelized and crispy along the edges I sensed more of the yeasty and buttery nature of the batter in her batch and also perhaps the scent of nutmeg – I think it was in the batter, but perhaps it was the bananas – either way, it was excellent.

Figuring she would get plenty of opportunity to taste the pancakes my sister opted to try Pamela’s French Toast – specifically the Croissant French Toast featuring two split house made croissants soaked in cinnamon-vanilla egg batter and topped with caramel sauce and nuts. In order to understand how sweet this was you’d have to know my sister – the lady puts syrup on nearly anything that can be consumed for breakfast...and after her first bite she stated “wow, this doesn’t even need syrup!” With Buttery croissants nicely pan crisped, crunchy oven roasted almonds and walnuts, and decadent caramel syrup the best way to describe the dish would be a deconstructed cinnamon roll, but better.

Settling the modest bill and leaving an ample tip we left Pamela’s very content and with blood sugar certainly well above fasting levels – the total duration of our meal was only 45 minutes but it actually felt much longer and not at all rushed. Pleasant service, a nice setting, and a wonderful (albeit limited) menu I only wish Pamela’s would offer some alternative sweeteners and a better brand of syrup...with those minor tweaks a great breakfast could have easily been in consideration for one of the best ever.

Walking away from Pamela’s we realized there was still plenty of time left on the meter and that The Mattress Factory didn’t open for another 40 minutes. Wandering up the strip we noticed a shop we’d seen closed the day prior was now open and decided to stop in to Mon Aimee Chocolat. Greeted by owner Amy Rosenfield the moment we walked in the door I was a bit taken aback – she seemed frustrated...but her mood quickly changing as we entered the shop. Jovial, pleasant, and ready/willing/able to discuss her collection of confections at length it turned out that her original frustration was due to a downed credit card machine and getting the runaround from the IT folks over the phone.

Browsing the shop while Amy dealt with the folks via phone we stood in awe of the diversity of the collection Aero bars from Canada, Amadei from Italy, and even Hershey from right up the road. Vintage to current, house made to international, gums, cookies, caramels, and…Capogiro gelato. Already full of Pamela’s fantastic breakfast we debated (briefly) whether ice cream before 10am was a good idea – a unanimous yes. Selecting two scoops at a somewhat pricey $4.25 our choices were Cappuccino and Cioccolato Scuro (“Bitter.”) Having heard great things about Capogiro but not yet making it to Philadelphia all I can say is that the rumors are true – the flavors were superb, the texture like silk, and the weight light and appealing…the Scuro literally tasted like brownie batter without the doughy texture.

Selecting a few creamy salted caramels, a small bag of housemade chocolate covered blueberries, and a few gifts to take home to my aunt we settled the bill and bid Amy good luck with the tech support. A fantastic store with a selection rivaled by few I’d place Mon Aimee on the “must visit” list for the Strip.

Monday, June 28, 2010

Eleven, Pittsburgh PA

Ideally I tend to avoid restaurants owned by a “restaurant group,” especially the groups that seem intent to cover every corner of the culinary globe. Its not that I’m against large conglomerates owning restaurants, it is that they often feel contrived or “put-on” – as if they’re trying to hard to be everything to everyone. With that noted, I must say that there are certainly exceptions like Danny Meyer’s Union Square Restaurant Group in NYC and the LettuceEntertainYou Group in Chicago that have put on outstanding meals – great enough that I felt it requisite to visit at least one of the Big Burrito family during my visit to Pittsburgh.

With most of the collection open for both lunch and dinner I scoured the reviews and the menus – it was honestly a toss-up between Umi, Eleven, and Casbah from the start. In the end it turned out that Umi was closed and I actually preferred Casbah’s lunch menu to dinner...and Eleven apparently had a Chef’s Table Tasting Menu that was largely unadvertised. Calling the restaurant I was informed that the Chef’s Table was generally for groups of 4-6, but if no one had booked it for a given night they’d be willing to seat a solo for the standard price of $100 for 9 courses – placing my reservation a couple weeks in advance I was glad to find out that Mondays were generally quiet and I’d have the table all to myself.

Arriving at the attractive restaurant – high ceilings, glass, and sleek woods galore – just before my 6:30 reservation I was greeted by a pair of smiling hostesses and led immediately to the Chef’s Table – a long wooden booth adjacent to the kitchen. Somewhat disappointed as my only vantage point of the action in the kitchen was through a small slit in the tiles, I was promptly greeted one of two servers who provided the cocktail list and filled my water. Professional and courteous I will note that service throughout the evening was mostly competent, albeit not overwhelming – a course was delivered without silverware, water reached empty twice, plate clearing was a touch slow. Fortunately, as part of the Chef’s Table experience I had the honor of receiving all of my dishes (and excellent descriptions of preparation and ingredient sourcing) from Chef Chad himself.

Drink order placed (a potent yet subtly sweet Effed Up Tom Collins featuring Effen Black Cherry Vodka, Lemon, and Soda,) I sat and chatted with the young chef for a bit – a pleasant and down to earth man it was great to see how excited he was about his menu and sourcing, especially his house cured charcuterie. Asking me about likes and dislikes our dialogue lasted approximately 5 minutes before I was wished “Bon Appetite” and the Chef disappeared to the kitchen.

Shortly after the chef’s departure the bread-lady arrived with a woven basket featuring three house-made breads. Browsing the online list and realizing Eleven takes orders for breads and confections all I can say is that the bread basket gives me a good idea why – all three of the options were excellent. From a sweet yet toothsome Currant Semolina Sourdough, to a rustic and aromatic Carraway Wheat, to a heavenly moist Sea Salt Focaccia each of the options was excellent...and while my primary server wasn’t always on the ball, I was never for want when it came to bread.

Kicking off the tasting menu was a pairing not unlike many amuses bouche – to the left a Beau Soleil Oyster Wrapped in Zucchini and topped with a yuzu gelee, and to the right a foie gras mousse topped with pink peppercorn and strawberry. While somewhat predictable I have to say that the Oyster was one of the better raw preparations I’ve ever had – the briny mollusk tempered nicely by the crisp zucchini and sour cube. The foie gras – it was good, but nothing I hadn’t experienced before, and much smaller.

Dish two would up the ante in terms of size, flavor, and technique. Entitled Salmon with Lemon Miso, Cucumber, and Radish the course paired an excellent slice of sashimi grade line caught King Salmon with crisp cucumber, bitter radish, and a texturally compelling lemon accented miso paste. Drizzled with a spicy sauce highlighted bold accents of jalapeno the overall flavor harkened to a spicy salmon roll.

The third course of the evening would provide the first “wow” of the tasting – an impressive accomplishment given the simplicity of the dish. Served proudly and with great description by Chad the House Cured Prosciutto with Three Sisters Mesclun, Vin Cotto, Olive Oil was sublime – the nutty notes of the silky pork only enhanced by the slightly bitter greens, acidic yet sweet vin cotto, and smooth olive oil. A new passion of the young chef I was even given the opportunity to see the curing area after my meal – a small section of the wine vault with meats aged anywhere from a week to nearly a year – a return visit for charcuterie at the bar would certainly be on my agenda if I lived locally.

Course four would return to fish yet also continue the savory tones of the previous course. Alaska Halibut with Red Pepper, Bacon, Tarragon, Asparagus, and Carrots proved to be a rather straight forward dish – familiar yet well done. Anchored by a nicely seasoned pan seared slice of halibut the addition of fresh vegetables, salty bacon, and spicy red pepper simply served as a reminder that chefs need not always use esoteric ingredients to make a fresh piece of fish taste great.

Dish five would mark the midpoint of the meal and continue to display Chad’s skill with traditional “American” food done right. Again featuring ingredients that were neither unfamiliar nor exotic, Tagliatelle with Lobster, Mascarpone, Asparagus, and Lobster Coral featured snappy and sweet Atlantic lobster, approximately one claw and half a tail, served over nicely prepared hand torn Tagliatelle. Mellowing the sweet protein salty lobster eggs and crisp asparagus added texture and flavor, though I must admit I was a tad confused by why the chef would opt to use the same vegetable in back to back dishes.

A short break followed the pasta and the chef emerged to chat a bit between courses. Largely content although certainly not overwhelmed I was told that the next two courses were two of his favorites. The first, course six, would be another familiar flavor – but also one of the most stunning pieces of poultry I’ve tasted in some time. Described as Heritage Farms Chicken – Salt Roasted with Chanterelles and Savory the dish could not have been more simple or American…it also couldn’t have been much more delicious. Succulent and moist with a crispy skin the chicken itself was flawless. Pairing the fantastic bird with pan crisped woodsy mushrooms and an aromatic sauce – everything felt very “down home” yet at the same time very upscale.

The final savory of the evening would be my favorite, as well. Large in portion and bold in flavor, Elysian Field Farms Lamb – Sous Vide with Crispy Lamb Neck, Anson Mills Polenta, Golden Artichoke, and Mint was marvelous. Nearly raw yet sizzling hot, the lamb itself was not as gamey as would be expected and the crispy wrapping of neck lent plenty of texture and savory flavor. Acting as a bed to the butter-knife soft lamb was a chive laden and creamy polenta with the slightest hints of mint and mace. Flanking the protein along with a savory lamb jus were crispy artichoke hearts – pan seared and creamy within, a vegetal composition not unlike the lamb in terms of presentation.

Following the lamb, course 9 would serve as my cheese course. Browsing the cheeses offered I have to admit I was hoping for Red Hawk as my composed course and I was delighted when the washed, triple cream cow’s milk cheese from Cowgirl Creamery arrived. Entitled Red Hawk, Brioche, Membrillo, Honey, Walnuts this was one of the better single offering composed cheese courses I’ve had the opportunity to enjoy…mostly because the buttery velvet texture of the Red Hawk is just so good on its own and the slightly sweetened brioche was (like everything from Eleven’s bakery) fantastic…and really, quince never fails either.

A long delay followed the cheese course – it was then that I took a tour of the wine/charcuterie room, was treated to a view of the kitchen, and chatted with Chad some more. Returning to my seat I was next greeted by the pastry chef who presented me a trifecta of her favorite desserts from the menu. Titled on the menu as “Tasting” the trio contained miniature versions of Eleven’s Famous Peanut Butter Pretzel Candy Bar, Banana Cream Pie with Tapioca, and Brioche Bread Pudding with Cinnamon and Strawberries. While I will note I’d have preferred received all three as separate courses (time and temperature reasons only) I will also note that the lady has talent – each option was stunning. Creamy peanut butter with chocolate ganache and salty pretzels, caramelized bananas with hand whipped cream and graham crackers…and oh the Bread Pudding. With finger-thick slices of buttery brioche caramelized and doused in a salty cinnamon caramel reduction, the only thing that made it better was the ice cream, a smooth dollop of spicy cinnamon that melted slowly over the hot pudding.

Full but not stuffed I awaited my check while chatting again with the chef – in all honesty I really do think Chad spent a good 30 minutes (of my somewhat expedited 115 minute tasting) either at my table or showing me the facilities. Bidding the chef farewell and congratulating him on a largely successful meal my bill arrived with a small plate of mignardises - Apricot Pate a Fruit, Strawberry Balsamic Pate a Fruit, and a Cocoa rolled Dark Chocolate. Settling the bill and collecting my belongings I made my way to the bar for a short time while awaiting my ride – a nice space, lively, and much more filled than the restaurant proper.

Looking back on dinner at Eleven the word the two words that come to mind are “American” and “Competent.” To be fair, in my experience I’ve never really had a tasting menu that I would call “American” without pronounced flourishes of French or Mediterranean – the Chef’s table at Eleven was almost like going to CUT or a similar high end steak house and getting a tasting…the food varied from very good to excellent, but certainly did not re-invent the wheel. For $100 the quality, presentation, and ingredients were certainly worth the price – but at the same time, I can’t say I would rush back. That said, Chad is an excellent Chef with a lot of potential and the space at Eleven is beautiful – I’d certainly go back for some a la carte selections and dessert anytime.

Il Pizzaiolo, Pittsburgh PA

Amongst the many organizations guiding and teaching the production of Neapolitan style pizza the Verace Pizza Napoletana Association is one of the most famous and well regarded. With less than 50 approved locations nationwide and only one in the Midwest region of Michigan/Ohio/West Virginia/Indiana/Pennsylvania I knew that Il Pizzaiolo was a likely visit on our trip to Pittsburgh – the convenience of lunch hours on a Monday made it an absolute must. Arriving around 1:00pm at the small location and scoring yet another free parking space along the street we made our way into the boisterous restaurant and landed the very last open table – the entirety of the restaurant remained full throughout our visit.

Greeted by our server, a friendly college age girl with an ever-present smile, our waters were filled and menus presented while we were left time to decide – time that would be welcome given the large size of the menu and the fact that I would have liked to try at least thirty items. Discussing amongst ourselves while scouring other tables for evidence of portion size we eventually settled on one appetizer, two pastas, and a pizza…we then began the agonizing process of deciding which option sounded best.

Orders finally placed we were next brought the first of two baskets of warm bread. Baked in house the first basket was had only three options while the second arrived with a fourth. With each bread a great example of its particular type the baskets featured a smoky Rustic Italian, buttery Semolina Vienna, amply sour sesame seed crusted Sourdough, and a buttery moist Foccacia. While I rather wish the pairing would have been a nice olive oil as opposed to butter neither were really necessary with all the sauce that required mopping up.

Beginning the meal as the sounds of eager diners bounced around the wonderfully decorated brick and tile interior was a delightful Arancini with creamy arborio rice providing a slightly toothsome contrast to velvety fried Mozzarella. An ample portion for a mere $6 the dish was only enhanced by resting the crispy balls of cheese in a pool of house-made marinara. Remember the comment about the bread – a whole basket was used to dredge the plate clean of the aromatic and slightly acidic sauce.

Appetizers devoured we waited a short time while waiting for our pastas – a somewhat new addition to the formerly all-pizza menu. Selecting two of the eighteen pastas the pair was delivered simultaneously and looking back I still cannot decide which was better. Beginning first with the Paglia E Fieno, a spinach and egg tagliatelle with peas, prosciutto di parma, parmigiano-reggiano, and cream I was stunned by the bouncy texture of the pasta to tooth yet its undeniable melt-in-the-mouth texture upon mastication…al dente done just right. Complimenting the pasta were sweet and snappy peas, a smooth and salty prosciutto, and a pungent parmigiano-reggiano that added texture and pungency. All balanced by a somewhat sweet cream sauce the entire dish was well thought out, well balanced, and divine.

Not to be outdone, Gnocchi Di Ricotta featuring Ricotta Gnocchi, Butter, Sage, and Parmigiana-Reggiano was a dish that would have the three of us fighting for the last dumpling. Simply prepared, as one expects from a rustic dish like gnocchi, the dumplings were undoubtedly the star of the dish – literally melting puddles of potato and ricotta cheese that provided little resistance to tooth, yet enough body to support and absorb the subtly sweet and aromatic sauce. Topped with a quick grating of cheese and cracked black pepper the gnocchi was one of the best I’ve ever tasted – a skilled hand, perfect cooking conditions, and largely un-fussed-with.

Enjoying all the previous efforts so much the “star” of the afternoon was nearly an afterthought – and one heck of an afterthought given that it is where the restaurant made its name. Opting for the Provola with Smoked Mozzarella di bufala, Cherry Tomatoes, Fresh Basil, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Baby Arugula, and Extra Virgin Olive Oil we watched as the dough emerged from the temperature controlled room, was rolled by hand, topped and was placed inside the stone oven for a mere 90 seconds. Emerging bubbly and charred the pizza was topped with a heap of fresh arugala, drizzled with olive oil and a quick shredding of Parmigiano-Reggiano before being plated and brought to the table. Squeaky and smoky the cheese was a perfect foil for the cornmeal accented and yeasty dough. Crisp and toasted around the circumference of the 13 inche pie and sopping wet at the center each ingredient was pronounced in flavor with the super sweet tomatoes and basil forming the foundation and the bite of the parmigiano and bitterness of the Arugula providing a nice compliment of flavor.

Happy with every aspect of the meal thus far the option for dessert was gluttonous – we were quite full, but necessary. A limited menu of sorbet, gelato, biscotti, tiramisu, and cannoli we opted to order one Cannoli and one slice of Tiramisu and share. Arriving quickly and in ample portion the house made desserts were both presented simply and unadorned. Beginning first with the Tiramisu – a rather standard example with buttery lady fingers, smooth mascarpone, high quality cocoa, ribbons of chocolate, and a hefty shot of rum – it was good, but like many pre-prepared versions it was largely unbalanced with the rum soaking the bottom layer and cream dominating the top. Significantly more impressive was the Cannoli, a crisp and slightly cinnamon accented shell housing a lightly lemon tinged ricotta cream. One end dipped in crushed pistachio, the other in chocolate chips, and sitting atop a bed of hand whipped cream – light, refreshing, and authentic.

Loud without being overwhelming the restaurant runs that fine line of a place like Otto or Mozza – somewhere between fine dining and higher end casual, and it walks the line perfectly. Great service, everything expertly prepared, and prices that fit the quality of the ingredients I was very happy with every aspect of our meal. Honestly, when the pizza, one of the best I’ve ever had was the “worst” savory…that is saying something. Clearly I need to start paying attention to that Verace Pizza Napoletana Association list when I travel.