Topolobampo, Chicago IL

Shortly after his big win on Top Chef Masters my sister and I found ourselves at Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill for brunch – while some of the food was excellent some of it was merely average and the restaurant seemed entirely overwhelmed by the number of patrons – service was slow, food came out luke warm...and looking back on it I was luke warm on the experience. Having reassessed my thoughts on food and dining on recent trips and ever impressed by Bayless’ strong ethics and dedication to the slow-foods/organic approach I decided to give him a second chance on this visit to Chicago – a lunch at Topolobampo…surely a plethora of Beard Awards and millions of raves couldn’t be wrong twice.

With the amount of praise heaped on Bayless I think may have gone into our previous meal at Frontera with unrealistic expectations, especially since I generally don’t favor Latin/Mexican cuisine – as such I left my expectations at the door this time. Arriving slightly late for our reservation after getting lost on Lower Wacker and subsequently searching for parking we were greeted by the same pleasant hostess I met last time and immediately led through the lively (and jam packed) Frontera to a small table in the much more quiet and refined (but equally packed) Topo. From the moment we sat down the feel was distinctly different from Frontera – music was low, conversation were quiet, servers were present without being overbearing.

Greeted by a pleasant young woman moments after seating we were provided with the ever-rotating monthly menu and offered a wine/cocktail list which we declined. Selecting tap water our heavy (and clearly hand blown) glasses were filled and my aunt additionally ordered a carbonated lime-aid that was quite tasty. As we browsed the menu another server stopped in and presented us with complimentary chips (still hot, thick, salty, and delicious) and a savory onion laden guacamole. While I’m rather certain this was the same guacamole as served at Frontera last year I found it much more delicious this time and even my aunt who doesn’t prefer avocados liked the smooth and balanced flavor.

Orders placed we sat back and chatted until our first courses arrived – a mere 10-15 minutes. For my Aunt’s first course she selected the Ensalada Topolobampo described as a salad of young organic greens with cilantro, garlic croutons and dry Jack cheese, in creamy lime-serrano dressing. Cold, crisp, perfect I was quite impressed by this dish mostly because I generally do not favor the overpowering effect of uncooked cilantro. Graciously accepting a couple of bites from my aunt I was additionally impressed by the smooth manner in which the creamy and acidic lime dressing worked with the sharp jack.

For my first course I was excited to see one of my favorite items – sweetbreads. Described in longwinded fashion as Mollejas a la Yucateca - crispy sweetbreads glazed with orange, achiote and habanero, Mexican chimichurri (infused with cilantro and epazote), roasted Spence Farm turnips, pickled red onion this dish was wonderful in every way. Featuring four large sweetbreads perfectly breaded and pan seared the dish was substantially spicy yet balanced with the sweetness of the orange to allow the characteristic taste of the glands to peak through. The addition of sweetened onions and crispy turnips added additional contrast and a clean vegetal component that balanced the heat and sweet – a very well thought out presentation.

Plates collected we once again waited only a short while before our next courses arrived – not too fast, not too slow – and perfectly warmed, presented, detailed, and explained. For my Aunt she opted for soup to follow her salad and we were both amazed by the aroma as Sopa Azteca featuring dark broth flavored with pasilla, with grilled chicken, avocado, Meadow Valley Farm hand-made Jack cheese, thick cream and crisp tortilla strips was finished table side. Not absurdly overflavored of tomatoes like most tortilla soups this delectable potage was nearly a stew texture with the excellent tortillas holding up to the moisture and heat and prominent notes of spice mellowed by the cheese, cream, and avocado. In addition to the fantastic soup my aunt was brought four excellent whole grain flatbreads for dipping – I fully admit to eating most of them.

For my main course the selection was easy – pork and bread pudding on the same plate couldn’t possibly fail. Entitled Puerco en Clemole and featuring “Roasted pork in old-fashioned clemole castellano (dark dried chiles, pecans, pinenuts, hazelnuts, avocado leaf). Calabaza en tacha (sugar pumpkin) bread pudding and Caramelized Brussels sprouts” my only complaint about this dish was that I couldn’t get the bread pudding as a dessert. Flawless pork loin that was as close to “melt in the mouth” as pork can be paired beautifully with the spicy yet nutty sauce while the sweet and intense bread pudding melded beautifully with the savory sprouts.

Thoroughly impressed by the experience thus far dessert was an easy yes – and so was coffee – and then some. While fully admitting to a borderline unhealthy caffeine addiction I will note I’ve had some great restaurant coffee – Daniel, The Modern, and Gramercy Tavern most notably – and I’d rank the press pot at Topolobampo on par with any of them. Intelligentsia roasted 100% organic beans from Yeni Navan-Michiza, Oaxaca the coffee was flower and honey, cocoa and nutty, smooth yet bold - unreal complexity. Expensive for sure I asked if this blend (bear in mind this is not the same as the house blend) could be purchased and I was told that unfortunately it could not – but I was given the address of the Intelligentsia flagship store so that I could look for something similar.

For dessert I allowed my aunt to select first and she opted for the Chocolate y Datiles – a Gooey steamed Mexican chocolate pudding cake with malted chocolate date ice cream, warm date cake with orange crema, shaved fennel and dates. As complex as it sounds this dish featured two types of cake - both of which were served warm, moist, and sumptuous – topped with a smooth and fruity chocolate ice cream, mildly acidic orange cream, and most wonderfully the fennel that served to enhance the other flavors but also left a glossy vegetal taste on the palate – not since the addition of black olive to a creamsicle at Providence has a vegetable been used so nicely in dessert.

With my aunt selecting my first choice I opted to go the other way and skip chocolate entirely. Presented elegantly the Membrillo con Biscochitos featuring warm brown-butter cake with crumbled shortbread biscochitos, Jamaica-poached quince and brown-butter ice cream was excellent, albeit not quite on par with the Chocolate y Datiles. Somewhere between a soufflé and a pound cake in texture the brown-butter cake was more savory than I expected with elegant notes of salt and caramel folded into its buttery and airy texture. Proving a perfect foil to the savory aspects was intensely sweet poached quince and somewhat bitter but sweetened and smooth ice cream.

Sitting back and enjoying the rest of my coffee I was not only happy but amazed – while I attempted to check my expectations at the door there was clearly some apprehension going into Topo after our experience at Frontera – apprehension that was clearly unwarranted and dissipated after my first taste of the guacamole giving way to excitement and delight with each subsequent dish. While the prices were certainly somewhat more expensive than the casual Frontera I can say without a shadow of a doubt that I now “get” the obsession people have with Bayless and while I may not be a “casual Mexican” kind of guy I truly appreciate his skills with their subset of spices, dishes, and techniques.

Joel Robuchon at the Mansion, Las Vegas NV

Opulent, over the top, indulgent - take your pick of these and any hundred other adjectives to describe "The Chef of the Century," Joel Robuchon. At $385 a head Mr. Robuchon's American flagship represents the ultimate in excess in a city of excess, yet at the same time it was the opening of his restaurant "at the Mansion" in 2005 that brought the previously retired chef back to the three-starred ranks of Michelin and placed Las Vegas firmly on America's culinary map.

Traveling across France as a young man the one time would-be-priest was exposed to a great deal of French cooking and technique that much of his early cuisine drew firmly from. By age 30 Monsieur Robuchon had obtained the highest designation of French Chef and turned his attention to the techniques of Japanese masters - a decision that strongly influenced nearly all future aspects of the chef's future development from his cooking to the design of his restaurants (L'Atelier's "sushi-counter" experience being the most notable example.)

While I personally have always been interested in Robuchon's style, I omitted his flagship from my previous visit to Las Vegas because I couldn't justify the pricetag - too much veal, marrow, and beef - items I simply don't enjoy. With the hard economic times, however, the team at Robuchon made a wise decision earlier this year to offer a mix and match prix fixe - anywhere from 3-6 courses with the ability to add from the degustation as desired. With a kitchen helmed by the same team who originally opened the restaurant, specifically Claude Le Tohic and Kamel Guechida and a brilliant front of the house I simply couldn't miss the opportunity this time around.

Due to my flight issues I made the decision to push my 6:30 reservation back to 8:00pm - not a problem I was assured - and arriving 5 minutes early I pulled open the floor-to-ceiling door to find a lovely hostess awaiting in the grand parlour. Introducing myself I was led to my prepared table in the main dining room - a dining room around 3/4 full at this time and soon to fill to capacity. Seeing the famous bread cart, dessert trolley, and overal extravagance of the room I must admit I was "wowed" on a level I've not experienced at any restaurant prior - the restaurant is dressed to impress and I wondered whether there was substance to go with the style - a question that was answered with a resounding "yes" almost immediately.

Greeted first by the dining room manager I was asked if I preferred sparkling or still water. Selecting still I was brought a liter bottle of Evian which went quickly given the dry desert air I'd been dealing with since arrival. I will note that the restaurant charges $10/bottle for water which is a pet peeve of mine as this was unannounced - for reference Alinea, L2O, The French Laundry, Le Bernardin, Alex, Charlie Trotters, Providence, Manresa and Jean-Georges all serve designer water free of charge. I was next visited by the Somellier - and per usual I declined alcohol, but he did seem quite nice and knowledgable from the conversations I heard at tables around me.

Greeted next by my primary server, a young French woman, I made a couple of inquiries about the menu and decided to go with the six course option, replacing the soup with a second appetizer, plus a dish from the degustation as a supplement. Settling in for a great experience I browsed around the wonderful room at the various chandaliers, baubles and trinkets, pictures of Chef Robuchon, and paintings - oddly abstract for such a classically styled salon.

After a few moments my server returned with a block of creamy cow's butter and my first of many visits from the extensive bread cart. Featuring in excess of 15 breads on this particular evening I was unable to taste them all, however the eight I did manage to taste were all remarkably good. Served throughout the meal each bread was warmed after selection - selections included Pain au Lait, Saffron Forcaccia, Bacon Epi, Gruyere Brioche, French Baguette, Basil Forcaccia, Compte Cheese Bread, and Basil Forcaccia. While each bread was good, my strongest recommendations would certainly be the Gruyere Brioche and the Basil Forcaccia - both of which tasted like the very essence of their ingredients.

Shortly after my bread selection I was brought my amuse bouche - and let me again use the word extravagant. Le Caviar Osciètre en fine gelée de corail anisée, servie en surprise - an item actually from the menu degustation this wonderful dish consisted of a small tin filled tiny black caviar - high quality and ample in portion with a briny "pop" to each pearl served atop a layer of fresh dungeness crab layered in a gelee of lobster coral (lobster eggs) and fennel custard. Well balanced with the combination of pungent fennel, sweet crab, savory caviar, and a suprisingly large degree of contrast in textures - this "amuse" would likely cost >$50 as a menu item in most fine dining establishments.

My first actual course arrived in very short order - literally a minute after the Caviar which I nursed slowly. Entitled Oursin, poulpe et crevette dans une infusion en gelée vinaigrée aux algues the dish featured Sea Urchin, Octopus and Tiger prawn served in three different sections and encased in a seaweed gelée. Smooth and only mildly briny urchin, thin and tender octopus, a perfectly prepared prawn with crispy antenna - each individual bite revealed something different and the gelee was only mildly briny in and of itself. Cutting the overall salty nature of the dish, the addition of small pieces of poached seaweed, small balls of melon, and various spices lent a nice contrast and everything about the dish (including the crystal bowl) was dazzling.

My second course again arrived shortly after the preceding course and once again it dazzled the eye first and the palate shortly thereafter. Entitled Noix de Saint-Jacques à la plancha, condiment au kumquat et au caviar the dish was my favorite of the night. Featuring two large diver scallops that were clearly butter poached and barely kissed by a scorching pan to sear the outside the preparation of the scallops alone was flawless. Marrying these wonderful mussels with a melange of cous-cous and a sweet yet buttery kumquat sauce plus orange zest the experience was taken to new hights by balancing the sweet smoothness of the scallops and sauce with two crisp spears of earthy asaparagus topped with a dollop each of Iranian Osetra Caviar that simply made the caviar from the amuse pale in comparison.

My following dish arrived after a nice break - I was starting to wonder, honestly, if they were rushing me at this point. A supplement off of the degustation ($30 extra when the bill came) was Les Crustacés featuring le homard rôti au curry et fines graines de chou fleur, l’oursin a la purée de pomme de terre au café « Blue Mountain » torréfié, la langoustine truffée et cuite en ravioli a l’émincé de chou vert - essentially three distinct courses on a single plate - all a fascinating interplay of flavors and textures.

Designed to be eaten in order, the first option of the three was one of Robuchon's most famous dishes - truffled langoustine ravioli with chopped cabbage. Featuring a single plump raviolo filled to bursting with sweet langoustine the dish was paired with chopped Savoy cabbage primed in beurre blanc and the plate was finished with a foie gras and black truffle reduction. Smooth, creamy, earthy, and unctuous the sauce somewhat blurred the langoustine, but in general the sweetness had no trouble shining through. While not quite as mind-altering as Achatz's black truffle explosion, the second best piece of filled pasta I've ever encountered.

Section two of the trio was roasted lobster with green curry. Not a fan of curry in general I admit this dish gave me pause but a single bite assured me spice would not take the forefront of the dish. Impaled with a sprig of lemongrass and served over a melange of lemongrass couscous and cauliflower the overall feel of the dish was actually something akin to the vegetal compositions at Manresa. While I cannot say I "loved" this dish, it was good and the lobster itself was perfectly prepared.

The third selection on the dish was by far the most interesting - Uni on mashed potato with roasted coffee beans. Featuring the second wonderful uni tongue of the evening served over a bed of truffled mashed potato puree and topped with roasted blue mountain coffee bean foam all I could do was sit back and be wowed - three flavors I'd never consider placing on the same plate, yet perfectly complimenting one another to form an overal taste and texture that (strangely enough) reminded me of a creamy vanilla cappucino at first with the component tastes each peaking through as the spoonfulls traversed the palate.

After the rollercoaster of great experiences above I have to admit my next dish was a bit of a letdown. Presented beautifully with a glass dome containing the lobster shell, leeks, and turnips removed tableside prior to finishing the dish with a hot sake broth, Langouste dans un court-bouillon de sake, petits navets et pousses de shiso started out brilliantly - featuring an ample portion of absolutely pure white and notably sweet Spiny lobster paired intelligently with bitter turnips, pungent leeks, and acidic shiso sprouts. What through the dish off for myself, however, was the addition of the boiling hot broth which - in an almost shabu shabu manner - ended up overcooking the lower portion of the lobster while completely ablating many aspects of the contrasting flavors.

At this point of the meal I'm not really sure what happened - whether it was the nearly 22 hours I'd been awake, the long day of travel, the previous meal at Enoteca San Marco, the richness of the food, the temperature of the room, or the alcohol in the previous dish - but I sort of "hit a wall." Sweaty followed by chilled, even a bit nauseated I took off my jacket and made my way to the restroom not so much to use the facilities, but to walk around for a bit. Having had a similar experience at Bistro Jeanty after the Rum Raisin Pudding and at Le Cirque after the Tequila Sorbet I do wonder about a possible alcohol dehydrogenase deficiency, honestly. Anyhow, after a few minutes of walking around and checking out the lounge, restroom, and "terrace" area I lost my tie and returned to my seat feeling much better - ready for my final savory of the evening.

Arriving promptly (I'm pretty sure they'd been waiting on me,) Canard et foie gras à l’aigre doux de cerises et amandes fraîches was everything I'd hoped. Pan fried muscovy duck was flawless and served with an ample layer of fat - no brine or gaminess whatsoever - along side an ample portion of cleanly deveined seared foie gras in a cherry sauce with fresh almonds, grapefruit, and raisins. Wonderfully smooth, the foie melted in the mouth and the heaviness was expertly tempered by the sweet fruits while the almonds lent some texture. Along with this dish was served a large scoop of what is possibly Chef Robuchon's most famous item - the potato puree. As good as the rumors, this is simply a dish that needs to be experienced to be believed - frankly, a simply potato and butter does not taste this good. Half milk and butter, half potato - pureed and passed through a sieve - decadent and delicious.

Getting more than just a little full at this point and knowing dessert plus the trolley was yet to come I opted to decline the cheese cart – much to the dismay of the cheese server who insisted I at least try the “La molette” – apparently a signature of the restaurant. Intensely creamy for such a hard cheese I must admit the cheese was excellent with a pleasant aromatic component of fruit yet a nutty undertone.

House coffee, a 50/50 blend of Illy French Roast and Illy Espresso beans in a French Press arrived next and was one of the best house coffees I’ve had in some time. True to form for myself a few sips of coffee settled my stomach substantially and cleared my palate for the dessert to follow. Arriving shortly after the coffee my selected dessert, La Framboise perle de chou, crème Madame à la vanille de Tahiti arrived – thankfully small and beautiful. Essentially a profiterole composed of a buttery choux pastry split in half and surrounding caramelized macadamia nuts, Tahitian vanilla cream, and fresh raspberries sitting atop a raspberry gelee the dessert certainly wasn’t as progressive as much of Robuchon’s cuisine, but it was delicious.

Collecting my plate my server told me that she had a “surprise” for me and disappeared to the kitchen only to emerge shortly thereafter with pastry Chef Guechida. To make a long story short, I’d originally set up my reservations via E-mail with Miss Dara Pierce and requested a menu. Browsing the menu I inquired with Dara as to why Chef Robuchon’s most famous dessert, Le Sucre, was not on the menu and was told that it had not been on the menu for a couple of years. Apparently this inquiry was passed on to Kamal who presented the dish to the table stating, with a heavy French accent, that he was “honored when people request this dish and was delighted to prepare it.” Featuring a micrometer thick shell of crystalline sugar enveloping a ball of mascarpone cream, vanilla mousse, lemon marshmallows, and strawberry pop-rocks the dish was topped tableside with pomegranate syrup – it was almost too beautiful to eat. Cracking the shell and taking a bite of each layer in a single spoonful I was absolutely stunned by the multiple textures, temperatures, flavors, and nuances of the dish…and then the rocks started popping. One of the five best desserts I’ve ever tasted.

Smiling and happy I figured the trolley of mignardises was next – but I was wrong. Instead I was brought a smaller trolley of ice creams and sorbet. Feeling much better at this point I opted for two of the three options (the other being vanilla) and received a scoop of caramel ice cream and raspberry sorbet over a honey/almond tuille. Wonderfully tart I quite liked the raspberry while the caramel was relatively plain – not quite as good as the gelati at Batali’s, but certainly a nice touch.

Finally arriving shortly after ice cream and myself finishing off my coffee – the carte de mignardises and a visit from Chef Le Tohic to inquire how I enjoyed my evening. Speaking fairly good English I talked with the Chef and the dining room manager for a few minutes about other great dining destinations in the US and thanked them for a wonderful meal. Making my selections from the 46 available options on the carte that evening I opted for a chocolate lollipop, Blueberry filled white chocolate, a canele, a caramel macaron with peanut butter cream filling, a raspberry macaron with chocolate tapioca ganache, and a macaron éclair. Eating each slowly I must admit the canele had suffered from sitting on the cart for too long and while the interior was glorious the outside was unfortunately soggy. The macarons, on the other hand, were each excellent and while not quite as good as the versions at Guy Savoy the following night or those at L2O or TRU I have to admit the raspberry and chocolate version was unlike anything I’d ever tasted.

Asked if I wanted any more options from the carte I declined for fear of not being able to make it back to my hotel without being carried or rolled – what I did request, however, was a copy of the menu and a couple of macarons to take home to my mother who loves the small cookies – both requests were honored without hesitation though a tour of the kitchen could not be accommodated as they were still quite busy. Along with my menu and macarons I was also brought a nearly 22oz pistachio and raspberry buttercake topped with gold-dipped pistachios and cinnamon glaze – a cake that would be slowly eaten throughout the rest of the trip with plenty to take home for my mother and aunt as a souvenir of my meal.

When it was all said and done I thanked my server, paid the bill, and collected my jacket and tie (humorously folded and placed with my macarons and cake in a large Joel Robuchon bag) to make my way for the door. A stellar experience by all accounts the few small misses such as the surcharge for water (but not for the superb coffee) and the overly potent sake broth were far outshined by the great service, spellbinding food, and myriad of extras. Pricey for sure but absolutely worth the expense for a beautiful meal in a city that really does have “something for everyone” – Le Sucre, Noix de Saint-Jacques, and those uncanny mashed potatoes are the excesses that I appreciate in Las Vegas.

Tru, Chicago IL

Getting out of Trotter's a bit later than expected I said goodbye to my pal and hopped into the waiting car on Armitage. I quickly flipped open my cellphone and placed a call...we were going to be late. "Not a problem" said the voice on the other end, "we'll see you soon." ...and what did you do after the grand tasting and an extra dessert at Charlie Trotter's, sir? I went to TRU with the 3 most important people in my life for the dessert tasting menu - that is what I did.

Arriving at TRU a short man in a suit took our car while another held open the door - "You made it, please have a seat in the lounge while we prepare your table" said the hostess. 5 minutes passed and another man appeared to escort us to our table in the main dining room; chairs were pulled out for the ladies and purse-stools impressed my mother and sister while the synchronized pouring of water caused me to chuckle. Napkins - white or black, your choice - were handed out with tongs - menus too were passed out in-synch. Call it contrived, call it unnecessary - I call it an unsurpassed and impressive level of service...especially since this level continued throughout the entire 2 hour experience. Orders were placed - 4 dessert tastings, 3 coffees - and we were off.

Less than 10 minutes (and a cup of bold Intelligentsia poured from a truly ornate pitcher) passed before we were brought our first item - the bread basket. A bread basket, really? Of course, this is a tasting menu! In the bread basket were slices of cinnamon almond brioche and dark chocolate madelines - both stunning representations with rich flavors yet a subtle simplicity that went well with the coffee.

Following the breads we were informed that our first course, the fruit course, would be coming soon and we were provided a palate cleanser which was prepared tableside - Key Lime Soda with Mint and Melon. Slightly tart yet generally smooth the thin and slightly carbonated mix in a small glass provided a very unique sensation and did its job quite adequately.

For our fist true (no pun intended) course, two servings of two different dessert were brought and served (again simultaneously) to opposing diners - perfect for sharing. Dessert one - 'Greek Yogurt ' with Mint, Honey, Grapes, Raisins, Frozen Mint Julep was absolutely sublime and consisted of a sweetened Yogurt Pana Cotta with a core of organic clover honey, a chip of smooth and creamy mint candy, fresh and delicious golden and red grapes and raisins, and a heavenly mint julep icecream. Each item was spectacular on its own, but when consumed together the effect was completely different and the sum was certainly greater than its individual parts. This was my mother's favorite selection, by far.

The second dessert in course one was 'Pear' with Port Poached Bartlet, Pepper Crumble, Lemon Meringue, and Spun Sugar. While delicious in its own right, the portion of this dessert was simply too small to share between two persons and fully experience its nuance and subtlety. While the lemon and sugar flavors were pretty to look at, they were largely forgettable - especially compared to the richness of the pear and the sharp contrast of the peppery crumble.
Plates were cleared, more coffee poured, and as we discussed the dishes just consumed we got our first glimpse of the cheese cart and some of the savory items being served to a couple to our left....between the food, the opulent setting, and the service I definitely need to come back for dinner some time.

Dessert course two was the 'custard' course and once again provided two items. The first dish, 'Carmelized Banana Crepes' with Peanut Butter Curry Ice Cream, Peanut Praline, Bittersweet Chocolate Sauce was named my aunt's favorite of the evening and was undoubtedly fantastic, albeit simplistic compared to the complexity of the Greek Yogurt. A small delicate crepe was absolutely stuffed with sweet fingerling bananas that were bruleed for crispiness and then covered with a smooth caramel with hints of vanilla and cinnamon. Along side the crepes was a flawlessly smooth peanut butter ice cream with hints of spice akin to and better than the Queen-City Cayenne served at Jeni's back home. For crunch, small pieces of candied peanuts were paired with a dense chocolate smear - the King himself would've loved this dish.

The second dessert of course two was certainly the most challenging in concept and potentially the best overall. 'Nutella' with Hazelnut Panna Cotta, Tellagio Cheese, Milk Chocolate, Creme Fraiche, Grapes, Grape Sorbet can only be described as the best peanut butter and jelly you've never had, Creamy smooth hazelnut panna cotta combined with lucious milk chocolate and creme fraiche provided an experience like Nutella, yet immensely more refined while the grape sorbet tasted like icey grape preserves, For texture, crisp cut grapes and crumbled hazelnuts made an appearance and the oddly placed Tellagio cheese chip provided a savory element that simply brought dish to a peak on the palate. Piece by piece or eaten as a whole, this dish was as much a work of art as a dessert and rivaled the figs at Trotter's early for most complex and wonderful dessert in a very long time.

With the time nearing quarter after eleven our third course arrived, this time with some decaf Intelligentsia, and once again mesmerized. Dessert one,'Chocolate Bar' with Wattleseed Ice Cream, Burnt Caramel Mousse, and Malted Caramel was quite literally a molecular gastronomy take on the Snickers...and it really satisfied. From the thick and heavy chocolate gnache to the heavenly smooth and airy mousse every single aspect of this dessert just "worked" and when consumed as a whole perfectly replicated the flavor of a snickers ice-cream bar - yet so much better. This dish would have been a "best of" during any other meal, but at Tru qualified only as the second favorite of the third course.

The final dessert of the evening was specifically requested (despite the fact that the tasting is supposed to be chef's choice) and thankfully delivered - for it was the best of the night. 'Hot Chocolate Souffle' with Cayenne Pistacchio Crumbs, Saigon Cinnamon Ice Cream, Vanilla Marshmellow, 5-alarm Chocolate Sauce was nothing short off perfect and absolutely the best souffle to ever grace my tongue. Wonderfully light, spicy yet sweet, 'hot' yet refined by the ice-cream - not as complex as other dishes of the evening, but 'better.' Despite being very full I'd have eaten another two servings if I had the chance.

Fully satisfied by the meal, we were further wowed ten minutes after plates were cleared when a small man (earlier seen with the cheeses) arrived with the cart of mignardises - and my what a cart. Being ladies, my mother, sister, and aunt each made a few dainty selections from the cart. but for myself I simply couldn't resist sampling everything the chef had to offfer - one of each please (mom says I need to eat more, anyhow.) Selections included a Coconut cookie, Rum Cake, Lemon Drop, Anise Lollypop, Opera Cake, Caramel, Chocolate Bark with gold leaf, and a Goat Cheese Macaroon. While each was delicious, specific highlights included the superb rum cake and the goat cheese macaroon - the best macaroon I've ever tasted and oddly the item my mother praises the most as single "taste" from the meal.

Feeling quite full at this point, I was once again tempted when the waiter again returned with a plate of candies - and after asking the ladies for their selections simply conceded to giving me one of each with a smile and a nod of approval. Four choices - Eggnog, Blood Orange, Gingerbread, and Caramel - each wowed in their own way, with the gingerbread and blood orange a particularly peaking my interest and the Eggnog wowing my aunt.

As a final nightcap after the candies, each of us were served a stellar passionfruit hot chocolate to "keep us warm in the Chilly Chicago weather." While I'd never really thought of these two flavors as going together, more credit is due to the chef for such a brilliant combination. While my sister did not prefer this dish, I was very pleased with the bold contrasting flavors......pleased enough too finish mine and hers as well.

Completely stuffed and incredibly happy with the choice to come to Tru I finished my last cup of coffee and requested a copy of the menu which was provided in a decorated envelope and we settled the bill - an incredible amount for just dessert, yet worth every single penny and then some. As the valet went to get our car we were each provided with a raspberry financier to go with our morning coffee - a financier that rivaled Mastro's buttercake for density and deliciousness when consumed with my Folgers at the hotel the following morning.

All told, between Trotter's and Tru I spent nearly $250 and six and a half hours on the nights festivities and don't regret the choice one bit - it was the best food day of 2008 and a wonderful way to spend time with friends and family both. For anyone looking for one of the best experiences in quality, quantity, service, and setting I would HIGHLY recommend checking out Tru - I will certainly be back.