Roast, Detroit MI

In planning our dinner before the finals of the Frozen Four I looked high and low, steak and seafood, Italian and Chinese – in the end I went with an unlikely choice because I felt obligated to give Michael Symon a second chance. With the rave reviews continually surrounding Lola I figured my experience at Lola could have been an aberration – the bad service, the miniscule portions, the uncomfortable chairs - I mean, the food was good, right? Having heard nothing but good things about Roast despite Symon’s growing empire I booked reservations for three during the earliest dinner slot on a Saturday in order to make it to the Game 1/2 mile away at Ford Field by puck-drop. Arriving and finding the $5 bargain valet we quickly made our way into the hotel-lobby and were led seamlessly to the hostess stand at Roast. Dressed casually (we, and many others were going to a hockey game) we were greeted pleasantly and led to a great table in the main dining room – surprisingly the place was packed despite the early hour.

Taking out seats and presented with the heavy (really, they’re made of copper) menus we were left to review while our waters were filled by the prompt and courteous ancillary staff. Browsing around the room I was quite taken by the large windows, white tablecloths, and modern décor – even the bar was very stylish and attractive. Tables wonderfully spaced across the long room I found the noise level at Roast “just right” – energetic but not too loud, refined yet casual.

A short time passed before we were greeted by a server – a tall man with short red hair who asked if we’d had “time to look at the wine list.” Stating we weren’t wine drinkers he said “oh, well….okay then” and then went on to describe the roast beast (suckling pig) and lamb special before excusing himself with “one of my associates will be over to help you in a few moments.” Attempting to ask what charcuterie was present on the board he recited it in a flippant manner as walking away. Somewhat distressed that this would be another Symon service debacle we waited for his “associate.”

Arriving after only a minute the successor to our arrogant first encounter was an extremely pleasant young lady named Laura who would care for us for the rest of the evening. Providing accurate descriptions and detail, amusing anecdotes and great recommendations throughout the meal I will note that from the moment she took over the service was vastly superior to that at Lola and exactly what I expect from a contemporary restaurant like Roast. (As a side-note, throughout our meal we watched the red haired man schmooze other well-dressed, wine ordering tables and there is no doubt he was the type of server I’d prefer not have and I was glad he’d dismissed us as unworthy of his time – watching him re-explain the concept of charcuterie to a table who asked “why would anyone pay $12 each for lunchmeat” was top notch.)

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With orders placed our meal began with a pair of breads and an excellent sweetened whipped butter from the kitchen. While I personally preferred the hearty and nutty Cracked Wheat bread both my aunt and mother fancied the white bread which was slightly sweet with an excellent crumb and crunchy crust. Ordering heavier fare and learning a lesson from the night prior at Greenhouse Tavern I used the bread mostly for mopping up sauces while my mother, not typically one to over consume bread, ate far too much.

Although I was disappointed that the sweetbreads listed on the online menu was not available on the evening’s menu, a suitable substitute was easily found on the evening’s pork heavy menu – the Crispy Fresh Bacon with Haloumi, Pickled Tomato, Almond. Featuring pork belly fried till crispy on both sides but still melting soft inside the savory protein was very well complimented by sour pickled tomatoes and crispy almonds while the authentically sourced Haloumi (apparently from Detroit’s Greektown) was only slightly browned and added a degree of creaminess. Not expecting the family to enjoy this I was surprised when both mom and aunt requested a taste – and then another – stating it was “delicious.”

Opting against the side dishes as ordered by my companions I instead selected a salad to accompany my main course – an excellent choice and amongst the best salads I’ve ever had. Entitled Warm Spinach Salad with Fried Egg, Mushrooms, Bacon, Crispy Pig Ear, Balsamic the dish featured a lightly warmed (but not wilted) base of spinach absolutely saturated in a sweet fig balsamic. Topping the dish were pan seared and woodsy mushrooms, a sunny-side farm egg, chopped bacon, and small bits of intense smoky pigs ear. Certainly heavier than the average salad given the protein and fat content this dish was and is a must order.

Arriving shortly after the bacon and the salad, a mere 50 minutes after we were seated (they were aware that we had plans after dinner) were our main courses and sides – each presented nicely by Laura and her team. For my aunt the selection was a Filet Mignon, well done as per her liking. Served in a rather austere manner with only a drizzle of olive oil she stated it was great – I did not taste it. As a side with her steak my aunt selected the macaroni and cheese – a combination of goat cheese, brie, and heavy cream with subtle notes of rosemary and parsley over well prepared al dente pasta topped with crispy buttered bread crumbs. An ample portion, certainly warranting the $7 price tag, and a great paring to her steak though not quite as wowing as the less refined version at Slow’s down the road.

For my mother’s dinner selection the choice for the evening was chicken – in this case Pan Roasted Chicken with Ramps, Morels, Tarragon Pan Sauce. Featuring early season ramps and morels the kitchen clearly knew what they were doing in the preparation of this dish as the smooth pungency of the ramps balanced well with the heavy earth tones of the morels. Not a fan of tarragon in general I found its use in the dish quite restrained and the overall potency of the pan sauce was tempered by sweet vegetables – carrots, peas, a slice of sweet potato. Not to be outdone the chicken was a fine example – crispy skin, succulent meat, not quite as good as that at Forest Grill, but excellent just the same.

Ordered along with her Chicken my mother went with a side she frequents at restaurants in recent memory – the polenta. Recalling the miraculously creamy polenta at Symon’s Lola (served in a Shrimp n’ Grits combo at that location) I was excited when I saw this on the menu and it certainly lived up to my memory. Made with mascarpone, cream, and I believe a touch of thyme the amply portioned side was toothsome without being heavy, creamy but slightly sweet, smooth like a pudding but with more body – think creamed corn meets a fine risotto.

For my entrée the choice was difficult – the roast beast of the day was a hearty sounding suckling pig – but the Duck was calling my name. After much indecision I eventually decided on the duck because my other 3 dishes contained pork – I don’t know what the pig tasted like but I can definitely attest to the quality of the Duck Leg Ragu with Pappardelle, Parmesean, and Caramelized Vegetables. With a thick ragu topping flawless al dente hand-torn pasta as thin and transparent as latex I fell in love with this dish on first bite and only came to appreciate it more with subsequent tastes. Hefty and aromatic duck – stewed until the point of nearly falling apart was complimented nicely with the tastes and textures of peas, carrots, peppers, and morels while the flavors were only heightened by sharp notes of shaved parmesean. Filling but worthy of every bite this pasta was “rustic” at its best.

After the surplus of bread, polenta, and chicken my mother tapped out – she actually had no room for dessert…my aunt was full and myself – finishing mom’s polenta and aunt’s Mac – I could have been persuaded to skip dessert, especially after the lackluster tastes at Lola – I could have been persuaded until I saw the menu. Making a selection without hesitation my aunt was also wowed by one of the nightly presentations and prevented me from looking like more of a glutton than was obvious by ordering a dessert herself.

Waiting approximately 20 minutes before our desserts arrived my aunt opted for her standard – Crème Brulee – in this case a Peanut Butter Chocolate version that tasted like a creamy and crunchy (and substantially portioned) refined Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup. For myself, continuing the porky trend for the evening (save my duck – drat, should’ve got the suckling pig) my dessert selection was the Bacon Doughnut Sundae with Maple Bacon Ice Cream and Cherry Bourbon Sauce. Anchored by a steaming hot cinnamon doughnut similar to those at Zingerman’s in taste and texture the pastry was subsequently topped with a savory maple laced ice cream, chunks of crunchy bacon, and a drizzle of boozy cherry reduction. Delectable, ample, multi-textured and profoundly nuanced this was a standout dessert, both for restaurant itself and on the grand scale of “wow” desserts I’ve tasted anywhere.

When the meal was complete we settled the bill, just over $40 per person with tax and tip, and made our way to the valet stop after a fond farewell from Laura and the receptionist. Collecting our car rapidly we navigated the short half mile to Ford Field and watched the BC Golden Eagles win the NCAA Championship in a blowout. Having become a bit of an NHL Snob in recent years I was pleased to find pleasure in the college game again – but not nearly as pleased as I was to have given Symon a second chance, it was a great choice.

Uncle John's Pancake House, Toledo Ohio and Mexicantown Bakery, Detroit MI

Staying with my mother in Toledo Saturday morning entailed a Saturday morning experience from my youth – a drive across town to Uncle John’s Pancake House for Breakfast. While my tastes in food and dining have clearly expanded past my early days in Toledo there is one thing that holds true – I still love breakfasts that could easily feign as dessert and Uncle John’s offers just that. Undergoing a substantial upgrade both inside and out since my childhood days enjoying their Chocolate Pancakes we arrived to a bright and inviting house of kitsch – darker and older than Zingerman’s Roadhouse, but similar in Midwestern charm.

Making our way into the restaurant just after 9am the seats were approximately 3/4 full – there would be a line by the time we left. Approaching the pleasant young hostess we requested a table for three and were quickly led to a cozy four-top in the back. Greeted almost immediately by a young server-in-training we were presented with menus and a list of “Daily specials” – something the restaurant certainly didn’t serve on my previous visits. Coffee for myself and mom, tea for aunt and we were left to browse the myriad options.

Returning after approximately 10 minutes (and refilling both my water and coffee on cue then and throughout the meal) with her supervisor, an elderly lady with a significant pack/year history our orders were taken and we were left to chat. Located near the University of Toledo campus the mixture of patrons at Uncle John’s was just as I remembered – older folks in flannel, college kids in pajamas, and some pretty rockin’ mullets. The scenery, including a large sculling boat and plenty of UT paraphernalia intermingled with pictures of old Toledo and signage – very diner, but not dumpy as it once was.

Enjoying our coffee and checked in on frequently our plates arrived after only 20 minutes despite the every growing crowd. Opting against the Chocolate Pancakes for the first time and instead choosing one of the daily specials I was delivered a plate entitled Peaches and Bananas’ Foster French Toast. Featuring soaked and pan seared sourdough with ample cinnamon and vanilla notes the dish was topped with fresh sliced peaches, ripe bananas, and chopped pecans in a hot cinnamon glaze. At $6 this was the most expensive sweet on the breakfast menu, largely due to the fresh fruits, but the portion size was quite ample. Certainly southern in feel I quite liked the blend of peaches and bananas with the sweet glaze, unfortunately while the pecans added texture the bread was somewhat mushy and lacking body. Delicious yes, textural no – comfy diner food.

For my mother her option was the Michigan Cherry Crepes with Sauteed Cherries, Whipped Cream, and Sliced Almonds. Featuring surprisingly light and fluffy crepes wrapped around fresh and hot cherries and topped with a dousing of whipped cream I liked this dish and its nuance moreso than my selection – it was even better with the addition of some of the blueberry syrup on the table rack. Accompanying my mother’s cakes was an enormous plate of well cooked Canadian Bacon. Having dined mostly in high end restaurants in recent memory the Oscar Meyer slices were average and once again gave me a better appreciation for artisan meats and quality farms.

My aunt, not a fan of syrup, opted for the bargain $2.99 Swedish pancakes. Featuring three ultra thin Egg Pancakes Served with Lingonberries and whipped butter this dish was relatively boring to me – it was buttery and the Lingonberries good, but in my opinion it tasted a lot better with something from the syrup sampler (maple, butter pecan, strawberry, and blueberry.)

Settling the incredibly modest tab and thanking our server team with a substantial tip I finished another cup of coffee before we made our way to the front – I’m pretty sure the table was turned before we made it to the door. Good food, great prices, and a comfy setting has kept Uncle John’s at the front of the Toledo breakfast scene since I was a lad and it is great to see that, if anything, the economic downturn has led to an even better experience. If Uncle John’s were in Columbus it would be the best breakfast in town – if it were in a major metropolitan area I gather it would still have a substantial fan base – and the prices would be higher with the lines longer.

After a long morning and afternoon of browsing the Toledo Museum of Art we next made our way north towards Detroit. With dinner plans before the NCAA Men’s Hockey Championship still 4 hours away we opted to stop into Mexicantown for a bite at the much celebrated Mexicantown Panaderia. Having had fantastic Mexican pastries in San Francisco and awful versions in Chicago I wasn’t sure what to expect.

Entering the large shop the first thing I noticed was that unlike the previous bakeries this was a fully functional grocery store and that they also served some composed savories. With an ample selection of sweets, groceries, and breads – none written in English – we wandered about for a bit before reconvening to discuss. Clearly meant to cater to the locals and not us tourists the servers were not very helpful – whether they didn’t speak the English or simply chose not to I cannot be sure, but regardless the decisions were all ours to make.

Watching a number of patrons pick up a large round of bread still warm from the oven I opted for one of those, a “Bolillo” according to the sign. Difficult to describe, my best assessment of this bread is that it is something akin to a hamburger bun on the exterior with an airy and fluffy interior somewhat akin to pain au lait – it was delicious and I understand why everyone was buying one. Other options from the bakery case included a Neapolitan polvorones – a chocolate/strawberry/vanilla cornmeal cookie with a great crumb that would have gone perfectly with milk, and an Apple Empanada that I originally figured was pumpkin but pleasantly found out was a compote of apple, cinnamon, nutmeg, and butter.

Selected from the chilled case by my mother and aunt were a boozy Chocolate and raspberry Roll and a pseudo-Napoleon comprised of alternating layers of cream and a crispy shell akin to phyllo dough. While the Napoleon was quite good and the cream balanced well with the crispy layers, the Chocolate roll was saturated with alcohol at the base and quite dry at the apex – the cocoa accented cream was good, the cake was dull. Not as good as the pastries at the Panaderia in San Francisco’s Barrio but vastly superior to those in Chicago I only wish the servers could have been more helpful – perhaps that is why my selections in San Francisco fared so well.

Forest Grill, Birmingham MI

Planning my trip to Michigan not only to see the Frozen Four but also to celebrate my mother and aunt's respective birthdays I knew I wanted to take them somewhere special - I considered The Lark, Coach Insignia, The Michael Mina spots at the MGM, and others - I considered them until I read two outstanding reviews of Chef Polcyn's Forest Grill and the current work of Executive Chef David Gilbert. A review of the restaurant's website impressed me even more as I discovered the two Michigan born Chef's had collectively cooked all across Michigan's best restaurants and trained at a restaurants ranging from The French Laundry to L’Astrance and Michel Bras - heavy hitters to say the least.

Attempting to keep my expectations in check given their billing as a "simple American bistro that uses quality local ingredients and is rooted in traditional cooking techniques" I browsed the online menu which ranged from charcuterie to bistro fare to pizzas and spans multiple regions of Europe - identifying no less than 10 items that sounded great to me and a number that would fit the less adventurous palate of my family I called and made reservations, the receptionist ever helpful and pleasant...and pleasant again when I called to change the reservation due to alterations in the hockey schedule.

Arriving just moments before our reservation, early in the dinner hour, after wandering the lovely city of Birmingham for quite some time I was immediately taken by the modern interior, large windows viewing the street, and open kitchen and raw bar, and white tablecloths - almost a hybrid of sexy/modern and intimate/bistro - neighborhood, but formal. Greeted by our hostess and led to a nice table in the middle of the main dining room we were next met by our server, Tim, who explained to us the various parts of the menu, the available tasting menus, and the oysters plus charcuterie selections. Knowledgeable of the entire menu and ready to make recommendations, formal but down to earth, witty and pleasant I must say I found Tim to be the ideal waiter, akin to what I've experienced at TFL, Per Se, or Alinea. Plates were delivered with ample descriptions, beverages and bread refilled as if by an invisible hand, both our table and those around us had little to want - seriously first-rate service.

After some discussion of the menu both my mother and aunt opted for an appetizer and a main while I personally selected two appetizers as for the first course and two appetizers for the second course – though Tim offered to bring them out as four courses I suggested bringing them two at a time would be fine as we had plans for the game following. Happy to comply Tim said four appetizers would likely be a lot of food – but then added that my selections were excellent and that he (a thin and healthy looking fellow) could easily handle it. Striding away to the kitchen we were left to our drinks and conversation while the bar quickly filled up and many tables became occupied with well dressed couples.

Arriving moments after our orders were placed was a buttery loaf of sesame and poppy seed bread along with a creamy unsalted butter featuring pleasant grassy tones. Served piping hot and half-sliced we happily tore the bread into chunks and buttered it – each of us were impressed and the first loaf went quickly only to be replaced just as rapidly with a second. Crispy and golden outside, fluffy and airy within – a beautiful loaf of bread that I had to temper my consumption of given the total of the day’s gluttony.

Approximately 35 minutes had passed before our first courses arrived – for mom and aunt a salad and soup, respectively. For aunt, the Tomato Bisque En Croute was her selection and similar to the presentation at Bistro Jeanty in Yountville the dish was a hefty tomato soup served in a puffed pastry. Less rich and less buttery than the version out west I will note I actually preferred the soup at Forest Grill, but the pastry dome just didn’t stand up (literally) to the puff or buttery deliciousness of Jeanty’s classic. Overall it would be hard to make a call on which I preferred overall, but aunt loved it and that is what matters most.

For my mother, somewhat full from the day of carbs, her selection came as a surprise as she ordered the Heirloom Beet Salad with Warm Goat's Cheese, Candied Walnuts, and Petit Organic Lettuce. Mildly flavored with only a splash of balsamic I feel this was one of those salads where the whole was greater than the sum of its parts – mild baked cheese married with sweet and crunchy walnuts, heavy and sweet beets mellowed by the savory balsamic, crispy lettuce for texture. Unfortunately for this salad there was simply too much beet and too little of everything else – not particularly a bad problem to have, but given the fact that the mélange of flavors worked so well it would have been nice to have everything present throughout the duration of the dish.

Choosing one hot and one cold option for my first course I started off with the hot - Green Eggs and Ham Risotto featuring Pancetta, Gremolata, Poached Egg, Watercress Puree, Arborio Rice, Mascarpone Cheese, Parmesan Reggiano, and Black Truffle. Reading the description my first impression was “wow, that is a lot of ingredients.” Taking my first bite – well, the ingredients were all there and they all tasted splendid. Beginning with the risotto – flawlessly creamy yet just a bit toothsome, clean and wonderfully prepared. Highlighting the risotto were the wonderful flavors of garlic, watercress, lemon, and (I believe) parsley while sharp notes of salty parmesan and ham brought everything to a point. Blending in the egg added a whole new level of velvety smoothness and just perceivable on the palate and nostrils was the faint air of truffles. Large in portion and larger in flavor this dish could’ve served many as a main and stands currently as the best risotto dish I’ve ever encountered.

My second dish was a no brainer – not only do I love foie gras when served in terrine or torchon form, but I’d heard that it was one of chef Gilbert’s signature dishes. Titled Hudson Valley Foie Gras Torchon - Strawberry & Black Peppercorn Jelly, Pistachios, Brioche Toast this was a relatively standard Foie torchon in composition and presentation, but the taste was on par with some of the best. As the primary component of the plate a large piece of compressed foie gras with excellent mouth feel was topped with a smooth and clean olive oil that added a unique silky finish to the traditional liver textures. Complementing the ethereal liver was a spicy yet fructose sweet strawberry jam with notes of balsamic and for texture there was a lightly buttered melt-in-the-mouth brioche, salad greens, and pistachio dust. Combining each aspect and spreading it lightly on the bread was a worthy venture as the multiple components all functioned well together – now, if only they’d have replaced the brioche with a warm new slice every couple of minutes things would have been perfect.

A short break, approximately 20 minutes, divided the first from second course – already pleased I sat with a smile on my face anticipating what was next. Arriving again with excellent description and presentation my aunt’s dish was something I’d identified as a must-have from the online menu – I was glad she’d order it so I could have a taste without committing to a full plate. Titled simply as Parisian Gnocchi with Ramps, Wild Mushrooms, Brussels Sprouts the dish was nicely balanced with the buttery pate a choux dumplings and their pillowy texture contrasted nicely by the pungent sprouts with a caramelized and crisp snap. Smoothing out the contrast was an aromatic and earthy sauce tasting the very essence of woodsy spring tones while a touch of balsamic and parmesan added a salty aspect. Much like the beet salad I do feel this dish had a few too many sprouts compared to dumplings, but when the vegetables are so fresh and well prepared having a plethora is hardly a ‘problem.’

For my mother her main course was a bit of a classic – so much that it was listed on the bistro classics section of the menu. Arriving golden, aromatic, and with a flawlessly crispy skin harboring moist and tender flesh the Clay Roasted Half Free Range Chicken with Wild Mushroom Cream, Potato Puree was exactly as described and second only to that at Boulevard in San Francisco in terms of best Roasted Chicken ever. Lightly accented with only salt and pepper the juicy bird sat atop a buttery blend of Robuchon-esque riced potato puree and in a small cup was an entirely unnecessary (because the chicken was so good on its own) but excellent sauce tasting like a concentrate of mushroom, cayenne, and Worchestire. As my mother is not a fan of dark meat I enjoyed a good portion of the chicken and actually found the thigh meat to be as good as most breasts I’ve had in recent memory – more evidence that “tastes like chicken” is very much dependant on where one sources their chickens.

Selecting another pair of appetizers for my second course they were delivered together – one a typical choice and the other somewhat outside my norm. The first selection, Citrus Roasted Sweetbreads - White Asparagus, Sauce Gribiche was an interesting choice as I generally don’t favor mayonnaise or mustard (two of the primary components in Gribiche) but I do love Sweetbreads and White Asparagus. Featuring three large slices of the offal, breaded and pan-seared crispy with heavy accents of orange and lemon the Sweetbreads themselves were superb and pairing the creamy organ meat with the snappy asparagus proved an excellent match. Topping the dish was the gribiche, but not in a traditional manner in that it was largely lacking of mayonnaise, instead a rough-cut admixture of hardboiled eggs, herbs, pickle, and light accents of mustard – it was excellent, though I have to say the pickles and citrus provided a strange sensation when consumed without any sweetbread to temper the pairing. Overall the aggressive flavor pairing was resoundingly successful, though I did leave some of the surrounding pool of citrus on the plate – it was simply too sour once the other components were gone.

The final savory of the night was something unique – something I’d debated getting versus the gnocchi or the duck...it turned out to be the best savory of the night. Served essentially as a sausage (utilizing the pork skin as a wrap and largely the meat with most of the tendon, bone, and collagen removed) over top of a pan-seared and reduced base of onion, green and red peppers, and tomatoes the protein itself was succulent and smooth without being overly fatty. Topping the dish with a creamy Bernaise while the base of the plate was lacquered with a wild mushroom pan sauce (similar, but less heavy than the mushroom sauce with the chicken) the overall effect of the dish was rustic yet refined, heavy but unlike the traditional heaviness of trotters, and extremely well composed.

Browsing the cheese menu, excellent like most everything else, I declined (promising myself to indulge when I return for the tasting) and we moved on to the dessert menu – an eclectic list of both the whimsical and refined, fruit and chocolate. Starting first with my mother’s option, Creamsicle Crème Brulee – interesting to say the least. Not generally a fan of Crème Brulee myself I have to say this version proved quite impressive with a satisfying crack of the shell leading to a room-temperature custard that tasted somewhat like a push-up, but vastly more refined with subtle notes of citrus poking though the ample vanilla tones.

For my aunt’s dessert selection, the most substantial (portion-wise) of the desserts - Trio of Glazed Donuts - Caramel-Heath Cream, Hazelnut-Chocolate, and Lemon Dipping Sauces. Featuring three piping hot donuts with minimal grease, a crisp exterior, and a pillowy interior just mildly sweetened with confectioner’s sugar the donuts were quite tasty on their own and only enhanced by the three sauces. Ranging from a zesty and potent Meyer lemon curd to a Nutella-esque Hazelnut and finally a caramel toffee so thick you could stand a spoon upright in it each of the sauces was good enough to be eaten with a spoon – but better on a warm donut.

Moving on to the final taste of my evening, the decision was easy - Brioche Bread Pudding with Chocolate Pistols, Creme Anglaise, Tahitian Ice Cream. My favorite way to end any meal I can say without hesitation that Forest Grill’s bread pudding was not only unique in presentation, but one of the five best I’ve ever tasted. Passing of the standard “cake” or “loaf” style, this version featured a thick custard base of Crème Anglaise that was then studded with cubes of buttery brioche and chunks of dark chocolate before being placed under the broiler and subsequently dusted with confectioner’s sugar and a dollop of heavenly vanilla ice cream. Utilizing this method created an entirely heterogeneous experience – one moment a fully saturated piece of brioche, the next a chunk of chocolate, then subsequently a toasty piece of bread with less gravity. Acting as the lynchpin for the dish, the Anglaise was hefty in texture but subtle in taste – enhanced by the chocolate and acting on its own the nuance the bread. Truly a wonderful dish I’d order it again without a second thought.

Paying the surprisingly modest tab for so much great food ($180 with tax/tip) and thanking Tim for his wonderful service we made our way to the car after nearly two hours of magnificent dining. Having dined at many of the best restaurants in the country I can definitively say that the food Chef Gilbert is putting out of the kitchen at Forest Grill is every bit as competent as the best Farm-to-Table restaurants anywhere while the service provided by Tim was not quite as refined as the best, but every bit as enjoyable. A beautiful dining room, a pleasant and interesting city, unique and delicious food – in all honesty I would say Forest Grill is the first “destination restaurant” I’ve visited in Michigan or Ohio.

Cake Nouveau, Ann Arbor MI + Supino Pizza, Detroit MI + Schakolad and Cupcake Station, Birmingham MI

With my metabolism revved up by a carbohydrate laden breakfast and my companions not dining nearly as gluttonously as myself at the Zingerman’s family of restaurants our most recent trip through Michigan entailed a number of small bites and stops between lunch and dinner. From the streets of Ann Arbor to Detroit’s Eastern Market and finally up to Birmingham for dinner our travels led us to no less than four stops prior to the Boston College versus Miami of Ohio matchup at Ford Field in the Men’s Frozen Four. First amongst the stops, actually situated between our visit to Zingerman’s BakeHouse and Zingerman’s Deli was suggested by my aunt, an avid fan of the Food Network.

Known largely for her victories in multiple large style cake competitions, my aunt was excited to know that Food Network’s “Last Cake Standing” winner, Courtney Clark’s Cake Nouveau was located on Ann Arbor’s 4th Avenue, just blocks from Zingerman’s Deli. Not desiring a whole cake we were happy to know that Cake Nouveau also specializes in cupcakes and a daily cookie selection and entering the small shop after browsing the pet shop and food co-op next door my aunt actually uttered the phrase “Is this what heaven smells like?” as hefty tones of vanilla, citrus, and cinnamon poured from the kitchen.

Browsing the pictures of many beautiful cakes we were shortly greeted by an elderly woman who told us a little about the store and took our order – two cupcakes and a cookie to go. Consuming the still-warm cookie, blueberry almond, as we left the store I must say my first impression was a wonderful one. Similar to an oatmeal raisin cookie but with a nutty essence, blueberry sweetness, and heavy hints of cinnamon and nutmeg the cookie went very quickly with each of us eating a third.

Saving the cupcakes for later, actually during second intermission break around 10:00pm, I must say the cakes were vastly less impressive than the cookie. First tasting the Cherry Limeade and then the Chocolate Elvis I will first say that the cupcakes were quite small – especially for their $2.50 price-tag. Secondly, while the frosting to cake ratio was appropriate I found the frosting to be largely lacking in flavor aside from “Sweet.” Finally, while the cakes were soft, they were more “muffin” in their density. Overall I would say the Cherry Limeade was the superior of the two, largely because of the gelatinous lime filling, but I wouldn’t go out of my way for either, especially with Zingerman’s and Cupcake Station nearby.

Following our morning in Ann Arbor we decided to make our way west to Detroit and having heard absolute rave reviews about Dave Mancini’s Supino Pizza at the Eastern Market we made our way into the small shop shortly after 12:30 – lunch service was winding down and we quickly grabbed a seat at the window. Speaking directly to Dave himself (he was working the ovens and hand tossing the dough, but the cashier had stepped out for a smoke) I asked how long for a half and half pie and was told “about 20 minutes.” Placing our order and taking a seat we watched as multiple pies came out of the enormous oven and I told my mother about Dave’s history, ironically, as a Physical Therapy major and how he went to Italy to truly perfect his craft. Midway through telling the story our server stopped by and gave us some additional information about the innovative décor – fashioned from old doors and school furniture.

A short 20 minutes passed as we chatted and the place began to fill up again as our pizza arrived – a pizza that was enormous, loaded with toppings, and looked and smelled sublime. Unable to settle on one pizza our split was one half “Bismarck” and one half “Smoky.” Prepared in four quarters and served piping hot I quickly plated a slice of Smoky for both my mother and my aunt before taking half of the Bismarck for myself. Crispy along the edges and saturated to a point just short of soggy in the middle I took a bite of the soft baked Egg, Proscuitto, hand pulled Mozzarella and Tomato sauce mix, chewed, swallowed, smiled, and sighed – wonderful. Looking up I saw a similar look of delight on the faces of my mother and aunt as they indulged in the sauceless potency of Garlic, Speck, Mozzarellla, Smoked Gouda, and Ricotta.

As someone who simply loves great food made with top notch ingredients I can honestly say I’ve never really fancied “pan” pizza versus deep-dish versus Neapolitan versus New York style – each has their own merits when done right. Similarly to my feelings about style, I’m really not sure whether I preferred smoky or Bismarck as both were absolutely flawless. Each somewhat charred, a fork and knife absolutely unneeded, a subtle hint of yeast and salt in the crust, and toppings that highlighted and complimented the care of preparation – my only regret is that I didn’t have room for more slices and selections.

Checked in on frequently by our server and paying a mere $17 for a pizza that handily fed three (with one slice of each pie left over) there really is no more I can say about Supino’s Pizza – what I will say is that although I have no particular preference for “pizza style” I do have a preference for great pizza and on that note I will say that only Batali’s Otto challenges Supino for best Pizza I’ve ever tasted – and at a fraction of the wait, price, and distance from home.

Following the Eastern Market we turned our sites northward, to the small town of Birmingham. With dinner plans at Forest Grill and a good knowledge of the area from various art shows we found free parking and took to walking the streets of the city – browsing the boutique shops, checking out watches, and visiting a few more eateries, the first being Schakolad, a large chocolate shop with a small but unique selection of chocolates, gelato, and gifts. Chatting with the pleasant attendant we opted for three 1oz squares of bark to sample their wares – dark chocolate almond, pistachio cherry, and white chocolate Oreo. Tasting each during the course of the hockey game I must say the pistachio cherry was unique while the others were rather standard. Good service, good prices, good product – good, but not great.

Moving along, just across the street actually, after a long visit to Universal Watch we found ourselves at yet another Cupcakery – this time the Birmingham wing of Cupcake Station. Having heard good things about their cakes from my mother and aunt who visited the Ann Arbor store we made our way in only to find the store actually quite busy – a good sign. Kitschy and pleasant décor, an open viewing window of the baking area, plenty of seating, and unique apparel plus at least 14 cake options we browsed for a bit as a large group of teenage girls made their selections and moved to the front of the store to eat.

Receiving no pressure at all from the staff we spent a while weighing the options (and gauging our capacity) before we settled on a half-dozen minis at $1.50 a piece. Approximately 1/3 the size of a standard Cupcake Station cupcake the mini cakes certainly are not a deal, but the ability to try multiple tastes justified the cost and our selections ranged from fruit to chocolate, filled to unfilled, and frosted to “topped” with all but one being very impressive (the Lavender Vanilla which, to me, tasted like soap – but my mom quite liked. Sampling Peanut butter and Chocolate, Cream Francaise (dark chocolate with French buttercream filling,) Banana Split (strawberry filled,) Simply Red (Marshmallow filled, Buttercream topped,) Samoa (Vanilla Bean, Caramel, Chocolate, Coconut) and the previously mentioned Lavender Vanilla each cake was soft with good moisture, balanced with nuance only enhanced by the topping, and most importantly – sweet without being cloyingly so. Notably, the Red Velvet (Simply Red) was not a traditional Red Velvet, but it was quite excellent and my favorite of the group.

When it was all said and done our eating adventure through Ann Arbor, Detroit, and Birmingham spanned the course of many hours, miles, and venues yet almost all of them were worth the effort – and the best was yet to come. While many may feel that the Midwest is “flyover” country, for many of us it is home and while the best parts may be further apart than in San Francisco or New York the discerning eater can certainly find the gems – besides, I’m pretty sure you can drive from Detroit to Ann Arbor or Birmingham faster than you can traverse Manhattan.