Showing posts with label Virginia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Virginia. Show all posts

Monday, May 17, 2010

Restaurant Eve, Alexandria VA

In planning the family trip to DC it must be noted that the trip itself was functioning as Christmas, Graduation, and Birthday for me – I worked overnight call for every major holiday this year and as such requested each family member to dine with me somewhere in DC during our visit as my gift – similarly I took them all out for their respective holidays…”stuff” gathers dusts while memories of special times with family last a lifetime. For the first of these three meals the decision was made to attend Restaurant Eve in Old Town Alexandria with my mother. Having heard good things from multiple friends and Washingtonians (including Chef Cooper at Vidalia and the Maitre D’ at The Inn) I was quite excited for the meal and although reservations were a bit tricky it worked out well as the Tasting Room is open on Mondays and we landed a two top for 6pm.

Arriving 20 minutes late due to traffic we parked the car and made our way down the tiny alley to the lobby of Chef Cathal Armstrong’s beautiful restaurant and were greeted pleasantly by a pair of young ladies who led us quickly to the Tasting Room, a lovely space separated by glass doors from the restaurant proper. The vision of Chef Armstrong and his wife Meshelle, Eve features three dining areas with each sporting different menus and price ranges, the tasting room being the most exclusive. Having contacted the restaurant ahead of time I was assured it was okay for me to order the spontaneous 9-course menu while mom opted for less food – I will note that Reservations Manager Ashley Pique’ was quite helpful both before and after the meal, when she E-mailed me to ask for a mailing address for a copy of the menu.

Seated and with water filled we were greeted by one of three servers who would assist us throughout the night. Courteous, pleasant, and ever-present in the room I will note that at first the service felt a tad “hovering” but it relaxed as more diners arrived. If I had but one negative (the only negative, I might add) to say about Eve’s service it would be that plates were occasionally dropped off by runners who failed to describe the plates, instead leading the diner to wait 15-30 seconds for a server to arrive tableside…an easy fix I recommended on the comment card at the end of the meal; simply train the runners in the art of describing a plate. While mom browsed the menu I opted for a drink, something I rarely do but couldn’t resist when I saw Lemony Laurel with Roasted Lemons, Bay Leaves, Galliano, and Smirnoff Citrus Vodka – Spicy, smoky, citrus, and packing a bit of punch…best mixed drink of the trip.

With orders placed, myself going with the spontaneous 9-course and mom choosing 5 from the prix fixe, our canapés arrived first – three each I was surprised that mom not only ate them, but liked them all! Featuring Deviled Quail Egg with Osetra, Goat Cheese Fritter with Horseradish, and Salmon Rillet each was quite tasty and balanced – dense egg/creamy mousse, creamy cheese/spicy horseradish, creamy salmon/crunchy toast. A welcoming opening round, for sure.

Our amuse proper of the night was Rabbit Liver Mousse, Rabbit Sausage, Baguette, Cream – and again mom ate it, though she didn’t like it as much as I. Using the cream and savory sausage to balance the unctuous and gamey liver was a nice setup in my opinion while the baguette added a nice contrast and crunch. I can’t say I fancy rabbit liver the way I do other animals, but it was good.

Interestingly our next course was an Intermezzo featuring a beautiful first of the season strawberry sorbet paired with a dry and still bubbly champagne plus hints of lemongrass – while I can’t say I expected an intermezzo so early, it was very nicely done.

With amuses cleared the bread service began next – the night’s selection (baked in house…actually, it seemed most aspects of Eve’s cooking including stocks, sauces, coffee roasting, and bitters were done in house) consisting of a crunchy and cheesy breadstick, a smooth Buttermilk Biscuit, and an olive-rye roll. Served along with these options was a slab of authentic Irish Kerrygold butter – the best butter I’ve had outside of The French Laundry/Per Se and Manresa with its grassy nature tempered by a smooth sweetness.

Beginning mom’s tasting was her first selection – eschewing more esoteric options on the first course she chose Fresh Chickpea Falafel with Housemade Yogurt, Lemon Coulis, Baby Romaine – a constant on Eve’s menu featuring two crisp and tasty chickpea balls paired with smooth and slightly sour yogurt, clean lemon flavor, plus crispy romaine the overall feel of the dish was distinctly Greek in nature and quite delicious. While I can’t say it would have been my choice the bite I tasted indicated I certainly wouldn’t have been disappointed it arrived on the spontaneous menu.

Noting my previous statement I will say that if I received the Falafel instead of my dish, Sauteed Softshell Crab with Carrot Orange Vinaigrette, Navel Oranges, Herb Salad I would have been disappointed. Featuring a large and buttery panko crusted crab with extraordinarily sweet meat the protein was well paired with a salad of fresh garden herbs and lettuces, citrusy oranges, and a sharp yet restrained vinaigrette that tasted more carrot than orange.

For my second course, arriving approximately 15 minutes after the first was cleared (keep in mind that Eve takes its time to do things right – the whole meal took nearly 4 hours and was worth every moment) the presentation was Chef Armstrong’s signature 000 “Oysters, Cippolini Onions, Iranian Osetera Caviar” and like other signature oysters and caviar dishes it is worthy of the title as signature dish. A clever play on the "000" rating given to Beluga caviar I opted stir and combine the dish after cutting the oyster in half – the fluffy tart itself being substantial and the oyster being solo. With the overall flavor of the dish strongly influenced by the supple oyster flesh and briny popping caviar I appreciated the manner in which the sweet and pungent onion balanced out the heavy and buttery tart – each flavor showing on its own but also complementing the others.

Mom’s next course was no surprise, not after her two previous experiences with John Dory and this one was potentially the best yet. Titled Roasted John Dory with Saffron Bread Sauce, Baby Fennel, Piquillo-Olive Relish the large filet was butter roasted and pan flashed – cooked through and falling apart to touch. With the mild fish laid across braised and earthy fennel the dish was subsequently topped with a smoky and sweet olive relish and finished tableside with sauce that can best be described as saffron and cream with a hint of onion. Utilizing a variety of heavy ingredients in a rather subtle style I found this dish particularly representative of what Cathal did throughout the meal – using each of his well selected ingredients to their utmost potential.

The next dish for myself was a $15 supplement (even on the spontaneous tasting there are three options for supplemental cost – foie, lobster, and Iranian Osetera) and worth every penny – even if it did look like the world’s most golden Twinkie when it arrived. Simply dubbed Foie Gras en Croute with Bliss Elixir and Pickled Rhubarb the best way to describe this dish is to see a picture – essentially a sliced log of Foie gras baked in a golden pastry shell and served alongside sour pickled rhubarb, shaved wisps of fennel, and a strawberry-lavender-citrus sauce. A thicker and more texturally layered slice of liver than most I rather assume the Foie Gras itself was first roasted before baking, but whatever the method it was excellent and ample in portion.

More time passed between the third and fourth course as the tasting room began to fill – again, it was nice as the noise level was low, the bread was good, and the company was better but I’m not sure eating alone at Eve would be comfortable – the first time I’ve ever thought this…the room is simply small and crowded. Opting against the lobster option for more local cuisine the next dish to arrive was Filet of Atlantic Halibut with Spring Vegetables and Eve Green Curry – the first sous vide preparation of the evening, juicy and tender inside, pan kissed on the skin. Served with the mild fish was a smoky and fresh curry made entirely with herbs grown on premises and peas, shallots, and onions – again, simple flavors used elegantly to compliment a perfect piece of fish.

The next course was a bit of stretch for my mother – but she took a chance and ordered the roasted Breast of Squab with Baby White Asparagus, Rhubarb, Summer Truffle Squab Glace. I say the dish was a stretch because generally she favors her poultry overcooked and this dish, roasted, promised to be delivered rare – and it was. Expertly prepared and amongst the best preparations of game-bird I’ve ever had, my mother simply couldn’t get past the scarlet flesh and opted for the portions closest to the succulent and crispy skin. Pairing the fine bird with aromatic truffle broth and snappy al dente vegetables I have to admit I wasn’t entirely disappointed that mom wouldn’t eat the whole plate solo.

My fifth course was amongst my favorites of the night, largely because it presented something I loved in a manner I’ve never seen done. First roasted to remove some of the fattiness, then pan fried to crisp, the dish of Crispy Belly of Pork with Virginia Asparagus, Jamon Iberico, Sauce Soubise was excellent. Minimally fatty for pork belly, the two slices were wrapped around a thin slice of Iberico ham that added a smoky flavor to the already intensely savory belly – paring the two pig proteins with potato batons, onion, and nutty green asparagus gave the dish a stew-like essence…it reminded me of a more refined version of the Pork Steak and Potatoes my Grandfather used to make…a good memory, to be sure.

For my final savory of the night I suggested no beef and instead received lamb – specifically Shenandoah Valley Rack of Lamb with Spring Onion Custard, Bluefoot Mushrooms, Lamb Jus. A substantial portion after already eating plenty of food and plenty of bread, I was quite impressed by this presentation – spring onions, fresh green garlic, supple bluefoot mushrooms, and a lovely custard that tasted of sage, onion, and chive – matched with the smoky lamb reduction there was no gaminess to be found.

Cheese courses at Eve are composed – always a risky maneuver for the kitchen that can backfire if the diner doesn’t like a specific cheese, but also a potential revelation if matched appropriately. For my mother’s selection, the pairing of Everona Piedmont with Poached Grapefruit and Eve's Garden Lavender Honey was perfect – the smooth and fragrant sheep’s milk cheese wonderfully balanced by bitter/sour grapefruit and homegrown lavender honey…yeah, they make their own honey at Eve, too.

My cheese selection was a Stracapra with Applewood Smoked Onions and Cumin Seed Crackers plus house pressed Olive Oil. A cheese I’d not heard of it was introduced to me as a raw goats milk cheese but aside from its soft texture it could have passed as Tallegio – it’s sweetness well matched by the smoky onions. I personally didn’t feel the olive oil added much to the dish, but indeed, Eve presses its own olive oil too.

Our second intermezzo of the night was delivered shortly after the cheeses and consisted of a small Peanut Butter Cookie with Berry Mousse and Fresh Spring Strawberry – tasting like a crunchy peanut butter and Jelly sandwich it was tasty and refreshing, precisely what it was supposed to be.

My pre-dessert was small but tasty – probably as much food as the intermezzo and interestingly similar to the point where I wonder if it was planned. Titled Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Strawberry and Pistachio the overall feel of this was a smooth and buttery strawberry shortcake matched with crunchy pistachios – nutty, buttery, strawberry – similar flavors, different textures from the preceding dish.

For our desserts proper my mother’s selection was “Banana's Foster” – Napoleon, Bourbon Bananas with Smoldering Cinnamon, Bourbon Caramel Gelato…essentially a Banana’s Foster deconstructed and focusing on each component of the traditional dish separately. With the bananas nicely caramelized and the fluffy pastry housing a smooth banana cream, the show stealer of the dish was indeed the gelato – a smooth boozy and buttery bite that worked nicely alone but better when mixed with the banana’s. Served with a smoldering cinnamon stick I had to chuckle when our server suggested that part was not edible – I was told the same at Alinea...and both times took it as evidence that someone must have once tried.

My dessert, interestingly (given the fact that I’d experience 5 other tastings of chocolate during this visit to the DC area) was a Tasting of Amano Chocolate with Pumpkin Seed Oil and Sea Salt. Featuring creamy and rich vanilla bean ice cream drizzled with caramel atop a profoundly rich smear of dark chocolate, a ribbon of citrus accented ganache, and a meltingly smooth yet bitter lava cake balanced out by coarse sea salt I found the dish to be good, though given Amano’s diverse collection I’d have personally liked to see more variations of chocolate than the seemingly unrelated ice cream.

Having written ahead to tell them we’d be celebrating my mother’s birthday in addition to the previously mentioned accomplishments we were next delivered what has become a signature dish of the Eve Bistro menu – the Birthday Cake. Expensive at $12 the cake was wonderful with a poundcake textured interior and rich buttercream frosting – as a larger version of the recipe has been published in that past by the Washington Post (http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/04/20/AR2006042002164.html) I do wonder if they used Kerrygold butter in the dish or if a “lesser butter” would produce a dish equally rich - if the later this could become a go-to standard cake recipe for myself.

Sipping my coffee, a rich (again housemade) blend, we were finally brought the check…along with a two-tiered platter of mignardises and some take home gifts. For the gifts, a unique concept – do-it-yourself at home to remember this night scone mix, kerrygold butter, and 2oz of whole bean coffee…the very blend I was sipping. Copies of the night’s menu were also provided and (as noted above) a copy of the spontaneous menu was mailed my way arriving at my home before I returned from DC. The mignardise plate - Almond Rochers, Strawberry Marshmellows, Chocolate Tartes, Buttercrisp Shortbreads – all quite tasty, particularly the Rochers.

Making our way to the door we had a glimpse of the small kitchen – almost too small to imagine so much great food coming from, especially with all the home curing, brewing, pressing, and roasting. Bid farewell by our primary server and the hostess we made our way to the street with our scones and butter in hand to find the world of old town Alexandria buttoned up tight and quiet – like Washington, VA the place seemed miles away from the metropolis of DC. Looking back on the meal I have to say it was a wonderful experience – the food Armstrong is putting out of that kitchen being some of the balanced and “unfussy” I’ve had at a restaurant of that caliber and his sourcing, business model, and dedication to a vision beyond reproach.

Sunday, May 16, 2010

The Inn at Little Washington, Washington VA

I wanted a special restaurant to celebrate with the entire family – something classic, somewhere classy, someplace where the four of us could sit back, eat great food, and be taken care of as we celebrated mom’s birthday, my completion of residency, and our first long trip as a whole family in years…what better place than one of the most celebrated dining rooms in the entire United States – a 30 table restaurant in operation for greater than 30 years? Residing nearly 60 miles outside of Washington DC in a city known almost entirely for its restaurant and Inn, the trip to The Inn at Little Washington was quick and colorful…and when we finally stopped driving none of our cell phones had service – to call the restaurant remote would be an understatement. Parking the car and wandering about the small town, shops, and related properties while snapping some pictures the entire scene felt very quaint – small town Victorian America – like another place and another time.

Making our way to the doors of the famed restaurant I asked the young man at the door to snap a quick photo – with perfect manners he complied and jokingly said he acted both as the doorman and house photographer. Making our way into Patrick O'Connell’s famed lobby we confirmed our reservation, were welcomed cordially, and after a short wait were led to a fine table along the wall in the main dining room. Greeted shortly thereafter by the dining room manager and our primary server, a young and somewhat smug fellow named Landry, we were presented with personalized menus and our water was filled. Browsing around the glorious room the Victorian feel of the city was continued aplenty – heavy drapes in crimson and gold, pleasant lighting, fresh cut flowers, excellent spacing, and personalized white linen and china, crystal stemware, and silver covering each table – it is no wonder the Queen opted to dine at The Inn during her visit, everything felt very regal.

Browsing the contemporary menu – long titles with plenty of whimsy – I was delighted to see many of O’Connell’s signature dishes being offered that night and I was additionally impressed by his strong commitment to local businesses…everything from meats to cheeses to vegetables and fruits appeared to be locally sourced – much like the servers and staff, everything felt like it belonged in Little Washington. As we browsed and sipped our water another young man appeared to discuss wines – stating we didn’t consume alcohol my aunt and mother opted for Iced Tea while my sister and I stuck with water – as the young man disappeared another collected the wine glasses while a young woman delivered the night’s bread selection and a creamy cow’s milk butter. A quick taste of the two breads, a cornmeal crusted French baguette and pecan-raisin rye with sea salt, indicated the bread girl and I would become friends during the evening – given my seating against the wall this necessitated her reaching across on the first refill, but after that I simply presented her the plate…the bread was heavenly and we all ate too much of it.

With Landry still missing and our orders unplaced nearly 20 minutes after seating (thankfully his team did a great job taking care of us as he seemed rather disinterested, aloof, and preoccupied) another young man appeared from the kitchen presenting the night’s collection of canapés. Eight options total with five different bites I was a little confused as to why each diner wasn’t presented with one of each bite, but reading other reviews this seems to be the custom at The Inn. Spoiled as I am my family members allowed me to have a bite of each of the options – a Red Wine Risotto Ball, a Beet Purée with Cranberry and Horseradish, the “World’s Smallest Baked Potato,” a Lamb Carpaccio Riding a Surfboard on a Hummus Wave, and Saffron Parmesan Panna Cotta. Disliking the sharpness of the Horseradish in the beet dish I will note that both my aunt and mother raved about it – of the other options I quite liked each with the Lamb Carpaccio so good that it influenced my later order.

With Landry finally returning to take our orders I will note he was helpful – I had specific requests about adding additional courses and these were allowed without question; he didn’t question my gluttony even though my family did. With orders placed he noted our menus would be placed in an envelope at the front desk so they would not get damaged. Having requested the menu be signed if at all possible I was told that Chef O’Connell would be leaving early that night and may not have time to sign the menu (which he did not.) Shortly after Landry’s departure the kitchen once again brought us a treat – this time an amuse proper for each of us in the form of a split pea veloute with hints of grape paired with a crumbly and cheesy gougere. Creamy and sweet I loved the soup’s velvety texture and the sweetness balanced nicely with the salty and buttery ball of cheese.

A short while passed and we ate more bread (seriously, that French Roll is dangerously addictive) before our first courses began to arrive. For my mother and aunt the option was simple – with more esoteric items dominating the first part of the meal they each opted for the Chilled Main Lobster in Sherry Vinaigrette with Avocado, Grapefruit, Crispy Lotus Root. Presented beautifully in a rainbow of colors the lobster itself was chilled in a mild cream sauce and speckled in three large piles beneath the crispy lotus chips. Sweet and succulent the lobster was complimented with the acidity of bitter-sweet grapefruit, creamy chunks of avocado, and intensely sweet (especially for the season) fresh tomatoes. Tying the dish together were the pleasant notes of the vinaigrette – sour without being acidic, fragrant without overwhelming the subtleties of the composition.

For my sister’s first course, the mélange of Spicy Big Eye Tuna with Mango, Avocado, Crispy Shallots, and Sake-Yuzu Sorbet. A large portion with ruby red tuna, fresh as if it were just caught, complemented with traditional avocado and shallots but also with nectar sweet mango, lemony sorbet, and cracked pepper I quite liked the composition of this dish. Lacking the creaminess of most of the tartare dishes presented in fine dining these days the mélange was more…substantial, perhaps and the sorbet was a very nice accoutrement providing temperature and texture variability.

For my started I’d planned on the Tin of Sin – until I tasted the lamb carpaccio amuse. Arriving as a beautiful palate Carpaccio of Herb Crusted Baby Lamb with Caesar Salad Ice cream was marvelous – a single option charcuterie board flanked with potato wedges, onions, a leaf of crisp romaine dusted with parmesan, a smear of basil, and ice cream that tasted the very essence of Caesar dressing. Delicate, melting in the mouth – every bit as delicious as beautiful.

Clearing our plates it was only a matter of five minutes before our second courses arrived – a seemingly short time given the mere four courses, but oddly not overly quick as we lingered on each dish for some time. For my mother’s selection during this course she opted for Our ‘Lasagna’ of Morels, Country Ham, and Asparagus – the least attractive of the group but perhaps the most delicious. Featuring a free-form lasagna with hand torn noodles draped around a smoky ham, fresh earthy morels, and the most fragrant green asparagus I’ve yet encountered the dish was finished tableside with parmesan and a buttery sauce that warranted extra bread for mopping up.

Erika’s selection was From Our Hen House – Spinach and Cheese Filled Ravioli with Molten-Gold Center – a dish that reminded me in presentation of the duck egg ravioli at Osteria Mozza but in flavor and constituents blew it out of the water. Lightly fried and loaded with ricotta and a liquid egg the pasta burst open on piercing allowing its contents to meld with the pool of butter, pine nuts, and crispy spinach – yet another dish that begged for additional bread.

For aunt, the most linear macaroni and cheese ever - Macaroni and Cheese with Virginia Country Ham and Shaved Black Summer Truffle. 7 handmade tube pastas, perfectly al dente, lined along a curl of crispy pastry over a slice of ham formed the backbone for the dish which was topped with a small salad of chopped crystal lettuce, oven browned buttery bread crumbs, mozzarella, parmesan, black truffle, and a sauce not dissimilar from Béchamel. Fortunate enough to land a single noodle I find the notion of this being called Macaroni and Cheese the same as calling the Vatican “a church.”

For my second dish – a no brainer - A Marriage of Hot and Cold Foie Gras with Sauternes Jelly and Pickled Cherries plus Brioche. A marriage in that they remained separate identities but worked well together both preparations were stunning examples – the char and mildly smoky flavor of the seared version well tamed by the use of a red-wine and fig reduction and the terrine a smooth and subtle slice with only touch of sugar from the sauternes jelly and some sourness from the picked cherries. Spoiled as I am I rather wished someone would have brought more warm brioche as I ran out rather quickly, but a simple request produced more within a few minutes.

Fully admitting that when I go out to eat I try to sample the best in variety, house specials, and my personal favorite foods I simply couldn’t decide on one main course – so I ordered two. At a mere $30 surcharge the decision was simple and after fifteen minutes of reveling in the flavors of our second courses the mains began to arrive. For my aunt, another lobster course – this time the Pan Roasted Maine Lobster with Braised Baby Bok Choy in a Fragrant Coconut Sauce Perfumed with Lemongrass. Served simply but elegantly in a large bowl the whole lobster was flawless – sweet and tender yet snappy moist. Complimenting the crustacean was buttery bok choy and a silky smooth coconut butter sauce with only the faintest hints of lemon.

My mother’s main course was a bit of a mistake for someone with a small appetite (and already full on bread plus a previous pasta course.) Artichoke Filled Cappelletti with Braised Artichokes Perfumed with Mint was a substantial portion – at least 10 stuffed pastas matched with a buttery morel sauce, crispy pan braised artichokes, and only the faintest accents of mint. Impressively thin and wonderfully prepared the pasta hats alone were on par with the best pastas I’ve ever tasted but when paired with the earthy sauce and crispy artichokes the whole dish was a wonderful surprise – and I got to eat plenty of it.

Miniature Filets of Black Cod Saute with Lemon Vodka Sauce and Lilliputian Shrimp Dumplings, my sister’s choice, was another winner in terms of preparation but I found the potency of the sauce a tad overwhelming of the mild fish. Speckling the plate with seared mushrooms and miniature shrimp dumplings I enjoyed the manner that everything was cooked – crispy yet tender – but in general I did not enjoy the dish quite as much as the others…my sister, on the other hand, raved it.

For our “shared” main – plated at the center of the table but largely consumed by myself – I opted for the Duet of Peking Duck: Seared Breast and Braised Leg with Turnip Puree and Dried Plum Sauce. Delectably fatty and ample in portion this dish was a stunner with the confit leg served over an applesauce accented turnip puree and the large slices of breast perfectly seared crisp and interspersed with whole figs and a vinegar accented plum sauce.

My second main course was potentially O’Connell’s most famous dish – a playful reinterpretation entitled Pepper Crusted Tuna Pretending to be a Filet Mignon Capped with Seared Duck Foie Gras on Charred Onions with Burgundy Butter Sauce. First of all, yes, I know I ate three slices of Foie Gras in this meal and I don’t feel bad about it – this dish was a masterpiece. Peppery without being overly spicy the large slice of tuna was seared brown on the exterior yet ruby red inside – “rare” if you will, and topped with a slice of smooth and buttery liver that was literally melting like butter over the fish. Serving as a base to the proteins were three large onion rings and two types of squash – a pungent meets vegetal accompaniment to the hearty flavors above.

Arriving to check in on us Landry offered the dessert menu and coffee or tea (included in the dinner price) – with two coffees and two herbal teas ordered we perused the menu and made our selections, again adding one additional dish at the cost of $20. Moments later we heard the ringing of a bell and the “moo” coming our way. Perhaps one of the most iconic images of The Inn, Faira the Cow, arrived after a long trot across the restaurant and with her a fromagier from the kitchen who helped guide each of us to a selection of 6 (out of easily 25) beautiful cheeses; Barely Buzzed – Cow, Albarene Ash – Goat, Skyline Blue – Sheep, Cave Aged Gruyere – Cow, Camembert – Cow, Other Raw Goat (name forgotten) along with Walnuts, Apricots, Honey and a basket of water crackers and thinly sliced bread. Whimsical to say the least each of the cheeses was excellent, particularly the Barely Buzzed and Albarene Ash.

Moving on to sweeter things, our desserts arrived after approximately 20 minutes and a refill of coffee. For my mother, a lemon and rhubarb fiend, Our Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp, Moonshine Laced Lemon Pudding Cake, and Strawberry Honeysuckle Ice Cream. To ask if this was good you’d have to ask my mom – normally one to share anything with her children I got only a small bite of the pudding cake – I was lucky to even get a picture.

For my selection, like the foie gras, it was another no brainer. Steaming hot and somewhat different from a traditional bread pudding The Inn’s Warm Custard Bread Pudding accented with Solera Vinegar and Pickled Cranberries was my favorite dish of the night in a night that contained nothing but fantastic food. Highly accented with vanilla and sugar the custard pudding itself was remarkable – almost soufflé light yet moist and delicate with hints of acidity peaking though in the lower layers. Paired with spun sugar, minced quince, and the pickled cranberries the dish was sweet without being overly so – a truly remarkable choice and amongst the most complex desserts I’ve had in some time.

For my aunt the choice was between a trio and a septuplet – in the end she went with the trio. Entitled “A Chocolate Manage a Trois” with Black Forrest Mousse Bombe, Chocolate Crème Brulee, and Bitter Chocolate Soufflé I will admit that the qualities of the chocolates here were ethereal despite the dessert being somewhat undersized compared to the other selections. Featuring a soufflé that was easily 68% cocoa and a Bombe that may have been pushing 80% the focus of the dish was clearly on dark chocolates and it was all the better for it, especially when combined with the significant sweetness of the Brulee and chocolate ribbon.

Erika’s dessert selection was the house favorite Seven Deadly Sins with the Bombe from the Manage a Trois, the Rhubarb Crisp, a wheel that tasted like a divine Tiramisu, butter pecan ice cream, a creamy panna cotta, banana rum cake, and a mint chocolate ice cream cookie. While the flavors were certainly somewhat disconnected the point of this dish was clearly quality, quantity, and gluttony. Tasted by everyone at the table I will note that I particularly enjoyed the cocoa and coffee wheel while Erika raved the mint chocolate cookie.

With dessert completed we were presented a cute and kitschy box of mignardises in the shape of the Inn. Finely crafted of paper and filled with Candied Lemon and Orange Peel, Almond Cookies, Chocolates, and shortbread I appreciated the attention to detail and the humor – as refined as everything is at The Inn they’ve clearly not lost their sense of humor.

Sitting and chatting after paying the bill I asked Landry if we could see the kitchen and was told “of course” but warned that it would take a few moments. Not in any rush we sat in the parlor where Faira resides for approximately 5 minutes before the maitre d’ arrived to escort us to the renovated kitchen – a kitchen that puts all but Alinea’s to shame in terms of sheer size, cleanliness, and grandeur. Greeted by the sous chef (acting as Chef du cuisine that evening as O’Connell had to leave early) we were told of the kitchen’s history, their reasons for the unique animal themed decorations (and Dalmatian pants) and largely treated as VIPs throughout our tour around each station – I’d recommend the kitchen visit to anyone interested, it is awe-inspiring.

Making out way out the way we came we were bid farewell by everyone from the hostess to the maitre d’, to the door boy – everyone except Landry who walked right past us without a word. Having heard rumors that The Inn at Little Washington had slipped a notch or two in recent years I have to admit I was bit hesitant about making it the family meal of the visit when I was originally planning, but in the end it turned out to be an absolute delight – the city, the restaurant, and particularly the food which was some of the most delicious and elegantly presented I’ve ever tasted. While our server could use some lessons from the crew at any number of 4 to 5 star restaurants the rest of the staff was fantastic and I’d strongly encourage anyone considering the Inn to make the journey – they aren’t reinventing the wheel, but they’re certainly fine tuning it.